proper clutch use
proper clutch use
Hey guys,
I just got a new 2003 SE 6 speed, and this will be my first stick shift car. I've been talking to a couple of my friends about clutch use, and they are saying that it's ok to keep the clutch depressed for a long period of time (say, greater than 30 seconds) without causing any excessive harm (i.e. just the regular wear and tear that comes from using it period). They acknowledge that riding the clutch is bad, but that keeping it depressed all the way down (as in traffic light) is ok. My father, on the other hand, told me that it's best to lay off the clutch as much as possible, and better to keep the car in neutral with the clutch all the way out. He's saying you can probably keep the clutch in for no more than 20 or so seconds without causing excessive harm.
Do any of you guys know FOR SURE how the clutch works, and what it's threshold is? Can you give me tips on how to better take care of it? Any other tips on stick driving? I've driven stick maybe like 10 times, and I was bucking the car a little at takeoffs, but it wasn't bad. I know I need practice to make it perfect, but what do you recommend? Anything particular on the 2002/3 6 speeds?
Thanks ahead of time for the help.
I just got a new 2003 SE 6 speed, and this will be my first stick shift car. I've been talking to a couple of my friends about clutch use, and they are saying that it's ok to keep the clutch depressed for a long period of time (say, greater than 30 seconds) without causing any excessive harm (i.e. just the regular wear and tear that comes from using it period). They acknowledge that riding the clutch is bad, but that keeping it depressed all the way down (as in traffic light) is ok. My father, on the other hand, told me that it's best to lay off the clutch as much as possible, and better to keep the car in neutral with the clutch all the way out. He's saying you can probably keep the clutch in for no more than 20 or so seconds without causing excessive harm.
Do any of you guys know FOR SURE how the clutch works, and what it's threshold is? Can you give me tips on how to better take care of it? Any other tips on stick driving? I've driven stick maybe like 10 times, and I was bucking the car a little at takeoffs, but it wasn't bad. I know I need practice to make it perfect, but what do you recommend? Anything particular on the 2002/3 6 speeds?
Thanks ahead of time for the help.
Clutch primer: when u depress the clutch
pedal the slave cylinder on the outside of the bell housing moves a forked rod that drives the throwout bearing into the inward-pointing fingers on the pressure plate, which pull back the pressure plate so that there's no pressure placed on the clutch disk itself. This frees the connection caused by the pressure plate 'clamping' the disk between the flywheel & the pressure plate & you get a briefly disengaged driveline.
This throwout bearing is a roller (or ball) bearing with a the roller surface facing forward (like a thrust bearing, if u will) so that the thing can push on the fingers of the clutch pressure plate while the plate is rapidly turning, as it does at a rate = engine RPMs. The contact face of the TO bearing must be able to rotate at engine speed while the part of the TO bearing attached to the actuating fork must of course be static.
If you push in the clutch for long periods instead of placing the tranny in neutral, that throwout bearing is rolling while absorbing the force of the clutch pressure plate springs. And, while these bearings last for a long time, it's better for both the health of the clutch pressure plate springs as well as the TO bearing to just release all the tension in the system by placing in neutral as much as possible while stopped.
This throwout bearing is a roller (or ball) bearing with a the roller surface facing forward (like a thrust bearing, if u will) so that the thing can push on the fingers of the clutch pressure plate while the plate is rapidly turning, as it does at a rate = engine RPMs. The contact face of the TO bearing must be able to rotate at engine speed while the part of the TO bearing attached to the actuating fork must of course be static.
If you push in the clutch for long periods instead of placing the tranny in neutral, that throwout bearing is rolling while absorbing the force of the clutch pressure plate springs. And, while these bearings last for a long time, it's better for both the health of the clutch pressure plate springs as well as the TO bearing to just release all the tension in the system by placing in neutral as much as possible while stopped.
Re: Clutch primer: when u depress the clutch
Originally posted by Galo
pedal the slave cylinder on the outside of the bell housing moves a forked rod that drives the throwout bearing into the inward-pointing fingers on the pressure plate, which pull back the pressure plate so that there's no pressure placed on the clutch disk itself. This frees the connection caused by the pressure plate 'clamping' the disk between the flywheel & the pressure plate & you get a briefly disengaged driveline.
This throwout bearing is a roller (or ball) bearing with a the roller surface facing forward (like a thrust bearing, if u will) so that the thing can push on the fingers of the clutch pressure plate while the plate is rapidly turning, as it does at a rate = engine RPMs. The contact face of the TO bearing must be able to rotate at engine speed while the part of the TO bearing attached to the actuating fork must of course be static.
If you push in the clutch for long periods instead of placing the tranny in neutral, that throwout bearing is rolling while absorbing the force of the clutch pressure plate springs. And, while these bearings last for a long time, it's better for both the health of the clutch pressure plate springs as well as the TO bearing to just release all the tension in the system by placing in neutral as much as possible while stopped.
pedal the slave cylinder on the outside of the bell housing moves a forked rod that drives the throwout bearing into the inward-pointing fingers on the pressure plate, which pull back the pressure plate so that there's no pressure placed on the clutch disk itself. This frees the connection caused by the pressure plate 'clamping' the disk between the flywheel & the pressure plate & you get a briefly disengaged driveline.
This throwout bearing is a roller (or ball) bearing with a the roller surface facing forward (like a thrust bearing, if u will) so that the thing can push on the fingers of the clutch pressure plate while the plate is rapidly turning, as it does at a rate = engine RPMs. The contact face of the TO bearing must be able to rotate at engine speed while the part of the TO bearing attached to the actuating fork must of course be static.
If you push in the clutch for long periods instead of placing the tranny in neutral, that throwout bearing is rolling while absorbing the force of the clutch pressure plate springs. And, while these bearings last for a long time, it's better for both the health of the clutch pressure plate springs as well as the TO bearing to just release all the tension in the system by placing in neutral as much as possible while stopped.
Thanks.
Vito....anybody's guess and you're likely
to get a bazillion opinions on this because there are NO hard and fast rules to this, but I can tell you mine: if I'm gonna be stopped for more than 6-8 seconds I pop to neutral.
I dont recall ANY of my cars getting a clutch replacement inside of 60-80k miles so...that habit has worked for me...
I dont recall ANY of my cars getting a clutch replacement inside of 60-80k miles so...that habit has worked for me...
Re: Re: Clutch primer: when u depress the clutch
Originally posted by vito1281
Galo, thanks for the highly detailed primer. In laymen terms though, how long would you say I can keep the clutch in w/out putting excessive/abnormal wear and tear on the bearings and the springs? If I'm at a light, how long can I keep it in?
Thanks.
Galo, thanks for the highly detailed primer. In laymen terms though, how long would you say I can keep the clutch in w/out putting excessive/abnormal wear and tear on the bearings and the springs? If I'm at a light, how long can I keep it in?
Thanks.
It happened to a friend at a rotary (i.e. traffic circle, roundabout, etc), but fortunately her car stalled instead of taking off. But a 2k3 max probably has enough tourque to take off.
Re: Re: Re: Clutch primer: when u depress the clutch
Originally posted by soopermax02
It's generally a bad idea to keep the clutch in at a light; if you get rear ended you may let up on the clutch and then go flying into the intersection...
It happened to a friend at a rotary (i.e. traffic circle, roundabout, etc), but fortunately her car stalled instead of taking off. But a 2k3 max probably has enough tourque to take off.
It's generally a bad idea to keep the clutch in at a light; if you get rear ended you may let up on the clutch and then go flying into the intersection...
It happened to a friend at a rotary (i.e. traffic circle, roundabout, etc), but fortunately her car stalled instead of taking off. But a 2k3 max probably has enough tourque to take off.
That has got to be the most important reason for keeping in neutral at a light.
Originally posted by Green 2kSE
Vito, listen to your father!
Vito, listen to your father!
He certainly has more experience driving stick than my friends. He's been driving stick since he was 16 and he's in this 50's now, so I was believing him over them. I just wanted a technical explanation for my friends so that they stop talking out of their a$$.
Makes sence. Kind of like never having your wheeles turned into the oncoming traffic when attempting to make a left turn.
Vito, your dad is old school. Today's throwout bearings are much better than they used be, and the clutch plate will fail much sooner than the bearing. In any case, if tranny work is to be done, the rule of thumb is to replace all wearable items, including the throwout bearing. Now the realiy, I too are like your dad and leave the car in neutral and only engage gear when necessary.
Vito, your dad is old school. Today's throwout bearings are much better than they used be, and the clutch plate will fail much sooner than the bearing. In any case, if tranny work is to be done, the rule of thumb is to replace all wearable items, including the throwout bearing. Now the realiy, I too are like your dad and leave the car in neutral and only engage gear when necessary.
Originally posted by fhaze_max
How about this. Real laymans terms..
When I get in the car the pedals are all up. They seem to be happy this way. I like to keep my clutch pedal up as long as possible.
Neutral at 95% of redlights.
How about this. Real laymans terms..
When I get in the car the pedals are all up. They seem to be happy this way. I like to keep my clutch pedal up as long as possible.
Neutral at 95% of redlights.
Vito..you got it!!!!
Vito, I'm glad that you finally got your Max!
I hope you got the deal on it you were looking for.
Now, I am no expert with the clutch like Galo (or can even claim to understand his reply) I believe that the wear on the clutch is cumulative. Not that 20 - 30 seconds of clutch depression will cause any problems, but over all those 20 - 30 seconds add up. I always put it in neutral at a traffic light as well as keep my hands off the stick when I'm not using it (I was told that messes up the syncros).
Good luck!
I hope you got the deal on it you were looking for.Now, I am no expert with the clutch like Galo (or can even claim to understand his reply) I believe that the wear on the clutch is cumulative. Not that 20 - 30 seconds of clutch depression will cause any problems, but over all those 20 - 30 seconds add up. I always put it in neutral at a traffic light as well as keep my hands off the stick when I'm not using it (I was told that messes up the syncros).
Good luck!
Re: Hey phaze...u like ALL your pedals up??
Originally posted by Galo
mnnnn...I have one pedal that just LOVES to be DOWN, dont you?
mnnnn...I have one pedal that just LOVES to be DOWN, dont you?
Uh, why would you want to keep the pedal pressed down for any length of time anyway? You mean slipping clutch for 30 seconds?? That wold GREATLY accerlate the disc's wear and possible warp the flywheel. You mean at lights in gear w/ the clutch pressed down all the way waiting for the light to turn? Again why? It will just accerlate the throw out bearing wear and pilot shaft bearing wear. These two items are NOT easy to access. They only cost a few dollars but will cost hundreds of dollars to change.
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