Rich96

iTrader: (2)

I did a search on MAF failure but still have a few questions:

It appears that MAF failure is a problem on our cars. Am I correct that the majority of them are related to aftermarket intakes? Perhaps the poll should have been reworded.

Am I also correct that MAF failure is caused by liquid entering it? Very often this occurs after oiling your filter too much?

Is the cost of a replacement about $100?

What exactly happens when a MAF fails? I know the check engine light comes on, but then what? Will the car drive ok? Can you drive it for a few days until you get a new MAF? Are you F'd right then and have to have it towed?

The reason for all the questions is that I just bought a Stillen intake from the .org. Am I taking a huge risk by putting it on? Is there something I can do to reduce my chances of MAF failure?

Also installation instructions would be nice if somebody has them!

chinaonnitrous1

iTrader: (12)

Whats up man..im on my 3rd MAF on my 2002....some have broken more. But anyway, MAFs will blow on factory or aftermarket intakes, aftermarket intakes seem to be prone to MAF failures more often. Some have had intakes and never had any MAF failures. Some blow maf's left and right. Oil seems to be a MAJOR aggravating substance for the MAF, several magazines have noted the above, as well as my own persona experience. Everything was fine untill i cleaned/re-oiled/over oiled my K&N filter. There was oil on the MAF tube, Sensor, and MAF element (the litte wire that heats up to measure the air). Definatly over oiled. However ive moved on to a APexi Dry filter, which has yeilded better hp, along with being dry. Downside, replacements are about 90 bucks. I did blow a MAF with the Apexi dry filter. I think im the first to blow one using the dry filter, but i dont know. So...seems like..the MAFs are just hypersensitive, and can be blown with a factory intake, dry filter, oil filter, whatever. Just be careful. Sensors are about 100 dollars. The whole tube itself with sensor is about 400.


Larry
~Maf Killer~

studman

If you want to know more information about the Max's MAF failures, try this thread:

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....hreadid=150052

Read down the last few pages for information containing the results.

Rich96

iTrader: (2)

Great thread, but.....

Does all that info apply to 2000s as well? I know the part number at least was for 2002/2003s.

Let me make sure I understand correctly:

Our MAFs were built really cheap and will fail due to oil or vibration, correct? To avoid failure, I should make sure I don't over oil my K and N Stillen charger. What should I do to avoid vibration? Wouldn't the filter just hanging off the end of the intake vibrate more than an air box that is bolted down?

What exactly will happen when my MAF fails? What will it due to my car?

studman

The other thread I gave you was for the 2002-2003 MAFs. The 2000-2001 used the same MAF housing, but a different MAF itself. The 2002-2003 MAFs have 5 wires on it, where the 2000-2001 MAFs have only 4 wires.

The 2000-2001 have some faulty MAF connectors, but they are also sensitive. There is a cheap replacement for them as well. You don't have to replace the entire MAF assembly, just the sensor itself. You can get that sensor from Courtesy Nissan in Richardson, TX for around $65-$70 plus shipping. Tell them you are from the .org before you order. The part number is 22680-AD210.

To resolve the vibration factor, do what I did. Keep the factory flexible connector that was at the throttle body. Connect it to the upper pipe of your intake. Then you connect the intake as the manufacturer told you to. I have a PR CAI. I did everything PR told me to do, except that I used the flex tubing at the point where the upper CAI pipe joins the throttle body. This eliminates engine-to-intake vibration (and that annoying "knocking" sound). As for securing the intake to the car, I didn't. I just did what PR told me to do, and I haven't had any problems (since I installed the rubber flex section).

As for what are the symptoms for a dead MAF, they are simple to detect:

1) Car won't start (fuel-to-air mixture not right)
2) Car runs extremely rough (fuel-to-air mixture not right)
3) Car won't rev over 2400 RPMs (limp-mode)
4) Car may stall at a stop (if automatic)
5) SES light will be on (error code will be stored)

If any of these happen, you may need to unplug the electrical connector on the MAF to be able to drive the car. You'll still be in limp-mode, but in my case, it was the only way the car would stay running. Fix the MAF (replace it) and drive the car to AutoZone. They will clear the SES light for you for free.

Maximam

Mine blew with a BONE STOCK intake at 40k miles!!! 2001

Rich96

iTrader: (2)

So is a blown MAF more common on a 2002 than a 00/01?

Do I still need to unplug it for 24 hours to reset it?

I have the Stillen charger, so I won't be able to use your advice on preventing vibrations.

Am I taking a huge risk by using this thing? Should I stick with stock to avoid a blown MAF?

studman

Rich96: The 2002's are more likely to blow. But to answer your other question, YES... you need to unplug the negative battery cable for 24 hours. During that 24 hour period, install the Stillen intake. When you reconnect the battery, it will take about 100-300 miles for you car to re-learn the new intake, so don't "race" it during that time. Once that is done, you'll be all set.

If you do blow the MAF, it's not a big deal. The replacement is less than $70 (as compared to $368 for a 2002-2003). But I wouldn't stick with stock because of it. Look at my dynos to see what my PR CAI did for me.

Click here to see the dynos for my 2002 SE

I got +4 HP and +20 ft/lbs Torque on my 2002.

BigDogJonx

iTrader: (7)

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=180460

Why not just do what Ethan did there? We got it to work.

Rich96

iTrader: (2)

Is there any way around this? I really don't have any time where I don't drive my car for 24 hours.