Replaced tweeters. Wow, what a difference!
Re: Replaced tweeters. Wow, what a difference!
Originally posted by max2003gle
Picked up POLK EX3500 tweeters. Installed them in about 30 minutes.
They really make a difference. Bose in my 2K3 sounds so much better.
Picked up POLK EX3500 tweeters. Installed them in about 30 minutes.
They really make a difference. Bose in my 2K3 sounds so much better.
Re: Replaced tweeters. Wow, what a difference!
Originally posted by max2003gle
Picked up POLK EX3500 tweeters. Installed them in about 30 minutes.
They really make a difference. Bose in my 2K3 sounds so much better.
Picked up POLK EX3500 tweeters. Installed them in about 30 minutes.
They really make a difference. Bose in my 2K3 sounds so much better.
Was it a simple install? Being an electrical idiot I was wondering if there was anything more than just hooking up the leads (I'm guessing the factory connectors are different) -- or did you have to mess with crossovers and stuff ?
Try to answer all questions.
Bought at CircuitCity. Paid $79(they are $99, but I was able to get a deal)
Kit includes everything you need, including crossover.
Install is very simple. You have to remove A-pillar. Start from top close to the windshield and slowly work down. It will pop out.
Original tweeter(crappy 0.5" Clarion) is attached to the frame via small metal housing. You have to remove whole thing using flat screwdriver(not just tweeter). Then I soldered wires and attached new tweeter directly to the frame using doublesided tape(later probably will change and use hot glue).
CircuitCity offered to install for $25 but I wanted to do it myself.
P.S. 2K3 wires: White is (+) , Black is (-).
Polk Grey/Red(+), Grey (-).
Use wave guide on tweeter to direct sound towards cabin for better sound
Bought at CircuitCity. Paid $79(they are $99, but I was able to get a deal)
Kit includes everything you need, including crossover.
Install is very simple. You have to remove A-pillar. Start from top close to the windshield and slowly work down. It will pop out.
Original tweeter(crappy 0.5" Clarion) is attached to the frame via small metal housing. You have to remove whole thing using flat screwdriver(not just tweeter). Then I soldered wires and attached new tweeter directly to the frame using doublesided tape(later probably will change and use hot glue).
CircuitCity offered to install for $25 but I wanted to do it myself.
P.S. 2K3 wires: White is (+) , Black is (-).
Polk Grey/Red(+), Grey (-).
Use wave guide on tweeter to direct sound towards cabin for better sound
Originally posted by max2003gle
Only tweeters can be directly replaced if you have Bose. They 4 Ohms.
All other speakers are using 1 Ohm.
Only tweeters can be directly replaced if you have Bose. They 4 Ohms.
All other speakers are using 1 Ohm.
Re: Replaced tweeters. Wow, what a difference!
One more question...
Do you know what the "flush mount depth" of your Polk's are? (1 1/8, etc.) I assume your Polk's are relatively thin.
Congratz on the upgrade, Polk rocks! Bose blows!
Do you know what the "flush mount depth" of your Polk's are? (1 1/8, etc.) I assume your Polk's are relatively thin.
Congratz on the upgrade, Polk rocks! Bose blows!
speakers
I'm a bit surprised that you replaced the tweeters. From my perspective, I find the bass much too flabby/boomy. I'm not suggesting you are wrong, everyone is certainly entitled to their own opinions (myself included).
I know there have been several threads on replacement of the sub but yours is the first I've seen on the tweeter. What kind of music do you listen to? That would give me an idea of what I might be missing out on. Thanks in advance.
I know there have been several threads on replacement of the sub but yours is the first I've seen on the tweeter. What kind of music do you listen to? That would give me an idea of what I might be missing out on. Thanks in advance.
ajahearn,
mostly jazz and rock. As you see most of this music doesn't use a lot off bass. Still you are right, bass is a little boomy/muddy. Reason I replaced tweeters was that I could keep everything stock and it cost less than $80 and gave me a lot improvment. Also, I keep Bass at 0 and Highs at +3. Before even keeping highs at +5 wasn't producing enough clear highs for my taste.
I agree that if you replace front components, rear speakers and sub plus new amplifier, you will get much better quality(and minus $1000).
mostly jazz and rock. As you see most of this music doesn't use a lot off bass. Still you are right, bass is a little boomy/muddy. Reason I replaced tweeters was that I could keep everything stock and it cost less than $80 and gave me a lot improvment. Also, I keep Bass at 0 and Highs at +3. Before even keeping highs at +5 wasn't producing enough clear highs for my taste.
I agree that if you replace front components, rear speakers and sub plus new amplifier, you will get much better quality(and minus $1000).
new direction
I listen to the same kind of music, although I also listen to classical. I've been trying the obvious (reducing the bass to -2/-3). This hasn't really worked that well. I will have to try your settings and see how it sounds. Thanks.
I'm not as picky when it comes to car audio. I'd rather have new wheels than a whole new sound system.
I'm not as picky when it comes to car audio. I'd rather have new wheels than a whole new sound system.
I'm not 100% positive, but I think all the door speakers and tweeters are 4ohm drivers. I think the subwoofer is the only 1ohm driver in the car. When Nissan went to the external amp on the back deck and got away from the amp on each speaker they changed I believe. Just my 2 cents. I'm in the process of replacing everything in my 2003 SE so I'll let everyone know for sure.
Shane
Shane
Originally posted by max2003gle
Try to answer all questions.
Bought at CircuitCity. Paid $79(they are $99, but I was able to get a deal)
Kit includes everything you need, including crossover.
Try to answer all questions.
Bought at CircuitCity. Paid $79(they are $99, but I was able to get a deal)
Kit includes everything you need, including crossover.
If you used the ones in the kit how much did you shorten the wire?
Thanks,
Adam
OK....this may be a stupid question. Does anyone know how the stock system would sound with the previously mentioned Tweeter upgrade and adding a powered 6.5" Bazooka tube subwoofer? Just wondering....I have one that I pulled out of a different vehicle and wondered if it would work. Pardon my ignorance, if this is a ridiculous thought.
To maximaman777:
You need to use new crossovers included in the kit(they are really small though). Old tweeters had built-in crossovers. New wires are really long so you have to shorten them.
To mm7759:
IMHO I don't think that you will improve bass using Bazooka. It will be louder and boomier(it's already boomy) but not tighter.
You need to use new crossovers included in the kit(they are really small though). Old tweeters had built-in crossovers. New wires are really long so you have to shorten them.
To mm7759:
IMHO I don't think that you will improve bass using Bazooka. It will be louder and boomier(it's already boomy) but not tighter.
Originally posted by max2003gle
To maximaman777:
You need to use new crossovers included in the kit(they are really small though). Old tweeters had built-in crossovers. New wires are really long so you have to shorten them.
To mm7759:
IMHO I don't think that you will improve bass using Bazooka. It will be louder and boomier(it's already boomy) but not tighter.
To maximaman777:
You need to use new crossovers included in the kit(they are really small though). Old tweeters had built-in crossovers. New wires are really long so you have to shorten them.
To mm7759:
IMHO I don't think that you will improve bass using Bazooka. It will be louder and boomier(it's already boomy) but not tighter.
max2003gle - I have been thinking of doing this, glad to see you did it for a reasonable price. Were you able to slip the A pillar cover back on to keep the stock look or did you have to cut it out and use the polk covers (assuming it came with them)? Might have to plan this modification for when the wife is away, since she would kill me for ripping apart a new car, when she thinks the sound is fine.
Originally posted by max2003gle
To maximaman777:
You need to use new crossovers included in the kit(they are really small though). Old tweeters had built-in crossovers. New wires are really long so you have to shorten them.
To mm7759:
IMHO I don't think that you will improve bass using Bazooka. It will be louder and boomier(it's already boomy) but not tighter.
To maximaman777:
You need to use new crossovers included in the kit(they are really small though). Old tweeters had built-in crossovers. New wires are really long so you have to shorten them.
To mm7759:
IMHO I don't think that you will improve bass using Bazooka. It will be louder and boomier(it's already boomy) but not tighter.
Hi guys,
I was just wondering what size sub/amp combo is used in the 2k Bose system. Also, is it possible to add another small sub off the existing amp? I haven't had time to look it up yet. Thanks for the info....
I was just wondering what size sub/amp combo is used in the 2k Bose system. Also, is it possible to add another small sub off the existing amp? I haven't had time to look it up yet. Thanks for the info....
To nick778.
Polk are 1" so they are bigger than old ones. To fit them you have to remove whole tweeter assembly from A-pillar. It's very simple. New crossover doesn't fit behind tweeter but there is enough room elsewhere.
Question: Are you sure all speakers are 4 Ohms?
I searched forums and people are saying they are 1 Ohm.
To phillyguy.
Yes, A-pillar fits OK. The only tools I used were flat screwdriver and soldering gun for wires(or you can tie them).
Polk are 1" so they are bigger than old ones. To fit them you have to remove whole tweeter assembly from A-pillar. It's very simple. New crossover doesn't fit behind tweeter but there is enough room elsewhere.
Question: Are you sure all speakers are 4 Ohms?
I searched forums and people are saying they are 1 Ohm.
To phillyguy.
Yes, A-pillar fits OK. The only tools I used were flat screwdriver and soldering gun for wires(or you can tie them).
Originally posted by nick778
as a fyi to others, the door speakers on the 2k2-2k3 are also four ohm. this is different from the 2k-2k1 bose system.
as a fyi to others, the door speakers on the 2k2-2k3 are also four ohm. this is different from the 2k-2k1 bose system.
Originally posted by maxman00
that stinks!! Does anyone know what the 2k-2k1 bose system is then? Are the tweets still 4ohm?
that stinks!! Does anyone know what the 2k-2k1 bose system is then? Are the tweets still 4ohm?
I did a search and could find nothing about the 2K-2K1 Bose system specs
Geeze, why does Bose have to keep all their info top-secret
Originally posted by 00SESoonToBe
I did a search and could find nothing about the 2K-2K1 Bose system specs
Geeze, why does Bose have to keep all their info top-secret
I did a search and could find nothing about the 2K-2K1 Bose system specs
Geeze, why does Bose have to keep all their info top-secret
Originally posted by jjs
So they can charge top dollar for mediocre parts.
So they can charge top dollar for mediocre parts.
This is true....all I need to know is what the system consists of, it sounds pretty good! (for a factory system), but I'd like to add alittle more bass. Just alittle, not earth shattering.
Originally posted by MacAlert
Am I the only one that actually likes the sound of the Bose system?!?! Geez, something must be wrong with me...
Am I the only one that actually likes the sound of the Bose system?!?! Geez, something must be wrong with me...
No No, nothing is wrong with it, it sounds really good. But I have a feeling alot of these guys on here are like myself and can't leave anything alone
not the only one.. Bose is fine at moderate levels *IF* you've ripped apart the rear deck to find all the rattles. Regardless to what genre of music you are listening to, most Bose will rattle. If yours doesnt, youre lucky or just havent had the car long.
The Bose speakers the doors are fine for moderate level midbass. The drivers dont look too bad at all. The tweeters replacement is really a clarity issue. A quality tweeter can reach down alittle lower and give a richer sound.
As for the sub, a replacement will take about some of the sloppiness of the Bose free air.
I plan to replace them both but leave the doors alone.
The Bose speakers the doors are fine for moderate level midbass. The drivers dont look too bad at all. The tweeters replacement is really a clarity issue. A quality tweeter can reach down alittle lower and give a richer sound.
As for the sub, a replacement will take about some of the sloppiness of the Bose free air.
I plan to replace them both but leave the doors alone.
I guess I've been lucky no sub rattles. But these tweets have been bugging me, I think I blew the drivers side one.
I already have a set of the polks and I've taken the stock POS ones out. I am going to use the wire connectors off the bracket to connect to the harness. That way I can do my soldering and heatshrinking outside of the car not not worry about messing up the dash. I'm heading to home depot for some glue and I'm set. Thanks for the great info max2003gle.
I already have a set of the polks and I've taken the stock POS ones out. I am going to use the wire connectors off the bracket to connect to the harness. That way I can do my soldering and heatshrinking outside of the car not not worry about messing up the dash. I'm heading to home depot for some glue and I'm set. Thanks for the great info max2003gle.
Originally posted by maximaman777
I guess I've been lucky no sub rattles. But these tweets have been bugging me, I think I blew the drivers side one.
I already have a set of the polks and I've taken the stock POS ones out. I am going to use the wire connectors off the bracket to connect to the harness. That way I can do my soldering and heatshrinking outside of the car not not worry about messing up the dash. I'm heading to home depot for some glue and I'm set. Thanks for the great info max2003gle.
I guess I've been lucky no sub rattles. But these tweets have been bugging me, I think I blew the drivers side one.
I already have a set of the polks and I've taken the stock POS ones out. I am going to use the wire connectors off the bracket to connect to the harness. That way I can do my soldering and heatshrinking outside of the car not not worry about messing up the dash. I'm heading to home depot for some glue and I'm set. Thanks for the great info max2003gle.
That's exactly what I did.
I just got the last 2 sets from our Circuit City.. they were $99 and wouldnt budge on the price... but had a 'buy the second set of any speakers for 50% off' deal. I may use them in my pathfinder (also with bose). I got the second set, so $75 each set I guess.
My wife doesnt really care one way other the other. May be a waste to put that second set in the PF. So if some really wants the second set, lemme know.
My wife doesnt really care one way other the other. May be a waste to put that second set in the PF. So if some really wants the second set, lemme know.
Wow what a difference
is an understatement. These really make the highs/vocals come alive.
I went the double sided tape route also. I used 3M clear HD tape so it is semi-permanet. Tim your gonna love'em, if you ever ride in the pathfinder you will not be selling the other set
I also took this time to hard wire my radar detector since I had the pillar down.
I went the double sided tape route also. I used 3M clear HD tape so it is semi-permanet. Tim your gonna love'em, if you ever ride in the pathfinder you will not be selling the other set

I also took this time to hard wire my radar detector since I had the pillar down.
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