Bulldawg

iTrader: (1)

Well my buddies and I installed the JIC kit today. The total install including height adjustment took us about 5 hrs. My rear is still a little lower than I would like, but I am goin to let it grow on me first before I adjust it. If any of you ppl have any questions then I would be glad to help you out. A couple of tools that you will need, are a swivel socket, and definently a torque wrench.

Anybody who has these already on. Could you give me some suggestions for the settings of the dampening? I would like to have a street set up. Also do I have to jack up the car when I want to adjust the dampening, or can it be done while loaded?

Y2KSESteve

iTrader: (22)

got pics?

Bulldawg

iTrader: (1)

no not yet all of us forgot to take our cameras today. I will prob post some pics after I get it set the way that I will permanently leave it. The front has about 1.5", and the Rear is about 1.5" from the top of the wheel to the edge of the painted wheel well. So basically there is a 1.5" visible gap.

Y2K2Driver

iTrader: (1)

That's cool that you got it done this weekend. I'm gunning for next weekend to do the install. Did you replace the nuts as the service manual stated should be done or did you just reuse the old ones? Also, with the wheel gap in the front and back the same, how much does the car "lean" forward? I guess the real question is, how does the car drive now?

Bulldawg

iTrader: (1)

-I reused the old ones, because my local Nissan Tech told me that
there was no need to replace them.

-The car really doesn't "lean", Mine sits pretty level. I quess that
it looks a little more agressive now.

-The car drives amazing now, I have little or no body roll, and that
is on the softest setting. I plan to adjust the settings when ever
I can get some advice from the "orgy".

Hope this helps.

SVTTODAMAX

One suggestion is to ride on them for at least 50 miles then make sure the springs still have no play in them. You shouldn't be able to move them with your hands if you try to swivel the springs while the car is jacked up and they shouldn't be able to move up or down. Only my front was a little loose after I corrected the play it rode a bit better. If you need some good settings I can give them to you. I actually did allot of tunning on them so I can give you some settings I use and what each ones result is. Also don't forget your alignment.

Y2K2Driver

iTrader: (1)

So the spring should be tight enough that I can't move it at all? I know when I have been playing with the settings on mine, when I tightened the spring perch for zero play length wise, I could still move it around sideways. Are you saying this shouldn't be the case? This is the one area I'm a little confused about since it has been mentioned that they are zero preload. Basically, are you saying that hand tightening the spring perch is not enough? How important is matching spring tightness side to side? Would using a caliper be good enough to say they are both the same length after tightening via spring perch adjustment? Also, how do you adjust the ride height on car? Do you just use the spring perch to leverage the sickel-like tool to twist the shock body into or out of the mounting bracket? I was thinking of lowering it for about a .75-1 inch wheel gap, does anyone think that will pose any problems? What about initial dampening settings? Thanks for any help. All of this talk makes me wish I installed mine this weekend.

PCGuRu2K

iTrader: (34)

Mines should arrive like the first weeks of Feb so I'm hoping the install will go smooth too.. Any tips would be great..

Bulldawg

iTrader: (1)

First install them, then set the car down and go drive around. come back and measure how much you want to lower the car. take the wheels off and feel the spring. The spring will be loose. take the big red thing and turn it to the right. this will tighten the spring. then screw the little red thing up to the big red thing and sinch it down. Do this by turning them in opposite directions basically screwing them into each other.

To adjust the ride height....with the top two red things locked into place. loosen the very bottom red thing(the one by itself), depending on how much you lower. take your adjustment tool (two black tools that came with it). To raise your ride height---put the small adjustment tool on the upper little red thing and turn it to the right. To lower you ride height---put the big red tool onto the big red thing and turn it to the left. This will only work if your two upper red things are locked into place. When you are satisfied, sinch the lower red thing down onto the mounting bracket.

My dampenings are still set to 0, or the softest. Yes I would like some suggestions on dampening settings. For street and track(both drag and road course).

I hope this helps, call me if have any further questions and hopefully i can answer. (864)-420-5283

Todd