Finally replaced my coils on my 56k 2k. After resetting the light at autoxone I gained back so much horsepower that I underestimated my accelleration and Rear ended someone! LOL no damage. What a difference.

 

You dont have to, but it made sense to me. For one coil you could pay up to $100 (part and labor). Or you can get all 6 for around $350 and do it all at once. In the long run you know the other 5 will go. So why not just do it all at once; save money and more importantly time.

My $0.02.

 

How much dielectric do you put on the top of the plugs when you install new coils? Or do they come pre-greased pretty good?

 

No one should have to pay for labor on these, even if you have never worked a car before. Its only 1 bolt on the coil is out, so its not really time effective to do all 6 at once. Plus in my write up I showed how I bought mine from Autozone for only $51.99 each. Not EVERY person on the boards has or will have every single coil fail on them, so why pay the extra money?

Fat

 

could MAF also be part of car idling badly or misfires, I replaced all coils, cleaned throttle body, fuel injectors spark plugs etc. Cleaned the MAF still the same issue.
However, right after cleaning the MAF the problem disappeared for half a day and car seemed to ride nice. Any ideas where I can get a new MAF?

 

I agree, the coils are definitely a DIY job. But for me it just made sense; since I had 2 of them go on me. I've had just about every common problem on my '00 max, so it was only a matter of time before the others went. And I paid $55 each from a dealer. It was expensive but the car drives great. And thats all that matters.

 

which model year is this problem more prevalent in? Im seeing it in ALOT of 2000 models and some 2002.

 

Is there any connection between the ignition coils and the AC/heat?
A couple weeks ago I got the same SES warning as everyone here. I looked into it & found out I'd need to change all my coils (most were goners). A few days ago, my heat stopped working: it would work for a couple minutes, then suddenly just start blowing cold air and release the rotten egg smell that folks have talked about. This would occur no matter how high I set the thermostat (I have an automatic one, it's a GLE). Once the heat would stop working, it wouldn't work again until hours later, and again only for a couple minutes at a time.

Just this morning I went ahead and replaced all 6 ignitions coils and all 6 spark plugs myself. The car idles and runs just fine (a little better I think). However, the heat still won't work! My hope was that the two were connected. In fact, now it will ONLY blow cold air: I don't even get those couple minutes of warm air.

Can anyone help?

 

bump bump ...

 

I wouldn't think the ignition coils have anything to do with the heat, sounds like you have heater core problems.

 

Do the newer part numbers end in 00 and 05 or 01 and 06?? All the sites I see selling them have the 00 and 05 ones. Also, all the prices seem to be $65 and above. Any place I can get them for under $60. Thanks

 

Got mine at autozone for $51.99

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=451830

 

Yeh, I bookmarked your thread. Autozone has the WELLS Ignition Coils and they go for $69.99.. I wish I could get em for $51.99 righ now.

 

Brinkley, can you tell me a bit more about the heater core? I wonder if there's simply a bad connection somewhere, because later on in the day the heater decided to start working again! But I suspect it just as easily might stop again ... Any pointers would be appreciated
Omar

 

I'm by far not a mechanic, I do most of the work on my car, but sometimes have to take it in. The reason I suspect it is your heater core, is the smell you are experiencing, I've had core problems with other cars, and i've always had that smell each time. You might also check your thermostat, is your water temp getting warm?

 

I have a 2000 Infiniti I30t, it has about 145,000 miles, car was running a little sluggish so i changed all my spark plugs, it ran much better till a week later, when i started my car and went to take off but it was hesitating few seconds later my SES light and TCS light came on, went to auto zone they put on the scanner and they said it's misfiring and give it a tune up, already changed the plugs so i guess it's the coils?? any suggestions

 

Did you remeber the exact code that says it was misfiring? P0300, is a generic code, but p0301 is cylinder one, p0302 is number two and so on. If your ses and tcs lights are on its almost for sure a bad coil, and if you got a cylinder number you know for sure which one to replace. If you have the generic code see the ignition coil link in my signature on how to test them.

Fat

 

I also had problems with the ignition coils. Luckly i had a warranty that covered it, It only cost me $100 which was the deductable to fix everything, Already, I saved $500-$600 on repairs for my car.

 

Delete a vote for no and add one for yes..
60100 miles and have a bad coil...Going to replace all 6.

 

Why spend the extra money? Its been shown you dont have to replace all six right now and the rest will give you plenty more mileage.

Fat

 

I got the dealer to replace all 6 by *****ing several times about it while I was under an extended warranty. I showed them this poll, the online petition, the TSB, and google searched the org and web....then printed it all out and showed it to my service advisor. It was humorous how they went from "we don't know anything about it" to "sir, we're gonna replace all six"...

 

Yea your right, but it's intermittent and has only happened twice in the last month. I suppose I could put the ignition system on a scope and it may show which one it is... I could also check the coils as outlined in your how-to thread. But there is no guarantee it will show up as bad since it's only mis-fired twice in the last month. Just figured since I have the cash, and will probably replace the plugs while I'm there that there's no point in doing it a second time.

 

Today I hooked a ampmeter to the fluke 98 and tested the front 3 coils on the scope...
Unfortunately I didn't have a camera but all 3 coil's wave forms where good at idle..
They all had the slope going up to about 600 MV (ampmeter set to 1/10 IIRC)then the drop straight to zero volts...When I would snap the throttle the slope only went to about 400 mv and instead of dropping straight down it slopped down the same way the slope up was...It's funny because one would show bad on every throttle snap and the other would only show bad 1/3 or 1/4 throttle snaps...Anyhow 2 of 3 of the front ones are bad, so what I'll do is label them all 1 2 3 4 5 and 6...Then I'll take pics of all 6 while at idle and while I snap the throttle..
I'll also check the resistance on each coil and post my results here. I'm going to be very busy this week. Hopefully I'll be able to do it Tuesday or Wednesday of next week..
My LTFT (long term fuel trim) was -10%, so I'm guessing once I put the new ones in and correct my lean condition I will probably see a drop in fuel consumption.

 

I was just wondering if it is better to buy Nissan's brand of updated coils or to buy after market brands like ACDELCO or Borg-Warner. Any help would be appreciated.

 

Right now I had this problem... this is my 2nd time...
When I got this problem, Nissan dealer changed only 1 coil because I was under warranty. Right now... they are asking me change other 5 coils as $670+Tax+$100(Diagosis).. Totally around over 800bucks~
So... I paid only 100bucks for diagosys, and supposed to repair by myself~

I think we have to move this poll to the sticky corner~

 

I put AC Delco from Autozone in my, no troubles at all. If you want OEM give DAVEB a call and he will give you a discount.

Fat

 

I had P1320, no other error code. However, I could not feel any difference before CHeck Engine Light except the ignition at the cold day. Do you think I have to change the coil, or wait until I can feel confirmly the difference. Nissan Dealer recommends to change 5 coils(1 was changed already).
Thank you~

If it is possible, let me know by this e-mail. sung.91@osu.edu

 

got mine off ebay for $290 shipped and put em in myself in like 30 min.....and im a car NOOB. And the dealer wants to charge $600 total??!?!?! wow, i'd tell em to eat a di*k.

 

I have several sets of used coils for the front (or left) bank of cylinders for both the 4th gen (95-99) and 5th gen (00-01) engines.
To answer questions that are sure to come:
1. No, I don't have any for the rear (or right) bank for either gen;
2. Where did they come from?? Last year I sourced several 5th gen 00VI systems to re-sell on the org, and with each also got the full set of coils. The rear coils (along with the rear valve covers) were sold as part of the 00VI setup. That left me with several sets of fronts. All of these came from salvage yards out of engines that had been in cars that were totaled. Thus, although I've not tested them and can offer no guarantees, I feel there's a high degree a certainty that they will work fine. I used 3 rears in my own 4th gen engine when I did the 00VI modification, and that's been about a year now with no problem. I also used 3 of the fronts when I switched over to a 5th gen front valve cover, and again, no problems. And no, I didn't cherry-pick or keep switching them until I found ones that worked. These are all OEM made by Hanshin, and have part number 22448-2Y005 stamped on them.
I have 4 sets of the 5th gen fronts, plus one set of the 4th gen fronts (which came out of my own engine and were working just fine). The price is $50 per set of 3, shipped - or best offer. That's considerably less than a single new coil's going to cost you unless someone puts together a hell-of-a group deal.

 

Is hesitation during startup also an ignition coil problem? Thanks.

 

Can someone point me in the right direction as to who Dave B is? And what's his contact info ... thanks much!

 

Dave Burnette
512-444-1400
South Point Nissan
Austion Tx.

 

Dave Burnette
512-444-1400
South Point Nissan
Austion Tx.

 

I'm suprised this is not stickied yet. Any mods want to take that on?

 

code p1320????
but i have no freakin misfire codes!!
just that stupid ignition code

 

after getting cel p1320 and p0304. changed all coils dealer wanted I think 600 just in parts. and me saying dee da dee. to that. went to a parts store totall price 230 for all 6. plus a home boy hook up of 30% and then 15 mins after that no more cel light and cars running like a beast.

 

Nice way to save money...

 

no coil problems after 6 years (well 7) and more miles than i want to disclose...

i've already posted many months ago in this thread, but consider this an update.

 

My car came with bad coils, I replaced coils and spark plugs a week or 2 ago. Smooth sailing from there, no more p1320.

 

Lot's of great info here. Can anyone tell me the correct line up of Cylinders and Banks?
What cylinders are located closest to the Windshield, and what Cylinders are located closest to the front of the car?
Thank you,