for those who want to change their coils themselves and are not quick enough to check out the "how to" sticky, here's an interesting link.

http://www.nissanx.net/tanman/

Come on, it takes 5 minutes to check out the whole how to section...

 

Well some local dealers here in my area charge the diagnostics(30$) or do it for free..yeah free..hard to believe eh?

Wow, that cheap out west..time to make some calls there.
Over here, front or rear coils are: $110 + taxes (cdn)..

 

That's cheap.
Last week, the SES light came on on my 2000SE (with 47K miles)
I saw the dealer today: the diagnosis was code P1320 - needs all coils. The dealer wanted $US890.- for the repair (the labor was $450!). I said "no thanks", but it still cost me $95 for ther "diagnosis".


This sucks - it's a systemic problem, bad engineering ..... I am calling Nissan tomorrow.

 

no its not cheap... 110$CDN for EACH coils!

for the whole deal, its 660$...
got mine from Dave B across the border!

but you have to know someone from the States who is willing to FedEx ship it to you (and put a bill of a couple of bucks on the box so there is almost no taxes to pay )

 

I did call Dave B recently and he quoted the coils for $50/each + $20(ship). This is still a great deal since we save half the money even with the exchange rate.
But what a price difference compared with 5th GEN out in BC who paid only 35$ for each coil. Just wondering if that's old stock

 

Say What? Wow. I cannot believe the labour quote!!! We would think prices south of the border are cheaper. I guess not in Cali. Bro I understand your madness.

 

unfortunately, those prices in vancouver have gone up...
I called a couple of nissan dealers in BC and their prices was just like here in QC...

 

I called that dealer in Mississauga,Ont who was selling coils for 35$ ea. Well that was in 2001. Now their prices have reached the same on average. I was quoted $109.

I also asked if there's an upgraded coil from the original with a superseded part number. There isn't one to their knowledge. The part numbers listed depends on the year of the car.

OEM= Wells or Hanshin make.

-OEM coil P/N's that end with 000 & 005 are for 2000 max.
-OEM coil P/N's that end with 001 & 006/007 are for 2001 max.

The parts guy also said you can put coils for a '01 to a '00 max.
Maybe not in this case but let's not forget some working in the parts dept don't have any technical background and just punch up numbers on the screen so the info cannot always be 100%.

I'm planning to call Nissan Canada and find out more about this. I don't want to be stuck again with defective original coils if I replace them.

 

Add me to the club!

 

Let me get this straight...
if you have:
OEM coil P/N's that end with 000 & 005 are for 2000 max... these are not the updated coils if they do not have the silver dot

OEM coil P/N's that end with 001 & 006/007 are for 2001 max... these are updated coils but still do not have the silver dot

I was searching on part numbers because i just removed all my coils today. My numbers are 22448 2Y005 and 22448 2Y000 without silver dots. SO these arent updated right?

 

I'll get back at you on this one. NO clear answer from no dealer and neither from Nissan Canada who told me today to call the dealer for the info.

I spoke to a friend of mine who knows a mechanic at a nissan dealership.
I contacted him and we spoke briefly. He's going to find out what's the situation.

This is so ridiculous and frustrating.

 

You are correct. I am 100% certain that you have the defective non-updated coils. You should have all of them replaced.

 

Well here it goes after getting some info back from the technician and also speaking to the service manager today.

NO updated coils or re-design. Since the part number hasn't changed the dot according to them is nothing and it's not the latest and greatest. According to their parts data base there's;

NO New "updated" or re-deisgned coil.
NO New P/N that supercedes the original P/N.
NO New TSB release for a permanent fix.

Also, they said don't replace all of them at once unless you get a code for a specific cylinder misfire. They said to drive the car and wait until this happens again. It could take up to 3x the failure for the scanner to pull up a specific cylinder code.

or

If you want to change the front or rear coils only, then wait again.

*I'm still not satisfied since why spend so much money for more defective parts and maybe again in the future. This is so ridiculous but no other choice.


Their responses to these other questions:

-The engine while stalling will not get damaged if you get a misfire (SES, SLIP, TCS lights). Unless the car is totally undriveable.

-The ECU doesn't have to be reset if you change your coils.

-Coils are only covered under bump2bump.

-Recommended not to interchange coils for a '01 max on a '00 max even though same engine type. Interesting but bizarre, I was told by another dealership that you can (??)

My problem for waiting for this situation to happen is a safety issue. I dont want to get caught on the highway, the max slows down and get rear-ended. But 2x within 1 month it's happened to me and occured on my drive-way at home. Cold and warm start. Nevertheless, I'll be calling Dave B in TX.

 

My SES light just came on today and they codes were for this exact same problem. Autozone erased my codes and now the dealership says they need those codes for this to be fixed under warranty. They also said they would only fix the coils that were bad, and not all six. What the hell... I would never have bought this car if I knew about this in the first place.

 

Your technician whoever you talked to is FULL OF **** ! The coils ARE updated design, they have a diff coil winding inside that runs cooler. Tell the cracker to go work on a diff car line before he spits out crap like that. Nissan runs the "DOT" color for a long time, it was the same way with injectors when they had issues like crazy back in the 90s. They had pink, blue, red, green dots on their canister shut valve for EVAP and fuel injectors.

2KMaximaSE- I just started to have a rattle in the rear deck of my car, 100K miles.... If I had known that it was going to rattle like that in -10F weather I would have never bought the car ! WTF kinda BS is this ? You b!tches are so cheap when it comes down to your cars, guying a 20-30K dollar vehicle and moaning bout 300 dollar coils... I guess it would be better if your tranny went out (Accord ) or engine slugged up (Camry) and you being stuck with a few thousand dollar bill. Stop b!tchn cause there aint no PERFECT car out there, if there was I wouldn't have a friggn job. Guess what I do for a living eh ?

 

BlackBird, I assume you're responding to my info. Well I did speak to another chief technician at another delearship. He told me the same thing unless these guys aren't getting updated tech info from nissan. He said unfortunately the customer is paying for this defect. He mentioned that the gray dot is for them to know that they replaced the original part..go figure. The coils fail do to temp changes. Like you mentioned, maybe there's a diff winding with the grey dotted ones and they don't know it. I hope these coils are better.

Bro, chill with the language...we're not *****es and plus I wouldnt want to be spending 1000$ every 2-3 years cause of OEM defective rogue material. Obviously there isnt a perfect car. They all make rattles, buzzes, squeaks, etc..But especially with todays technology and the diagnostics scanner they're using, nissan mechanics cant even troubleshoot the right cylinder that's misfiring(somtimes) and they're telling you to change all six..now that's ridiculous.

Funny you should mention the accord. I have a '91 LX too with 250,000 km. Tranny still fine. Basic maintenance. Other than replacing the starter and alternator lately, there hasn't been any other problems. Well body corrosion.

 

91 LX Accord is not a 98-02 Accord with nasty tranny problems.

Sh!tty Nissan Service is attributed by ex-con, druggies,alkies working at Nissan. Anyone off the street can walk into their service department n get a job. Gotta love the high end dealers of Lexus, Acura, Mercedes, where they look at your background, do a hair sample test as far as drugs go, and you need prior experience. I know Nissan techs that barely know how to reset a check engine light, and their job is 30K mile maintenance services and brake jobs. These guys make BANK and have very little knowledge as far as the product goes.

 

Add me to the list as well 2000 at 68900. Just dropped off my car to dealer who called me on Thursday and stated that I would need to wait until Tuesday since coils are on backorder. Luckily I have warranty

 

Car started shaking, service engine light went on. Got following codes P0302 and P1320 =
Cylinder 2 misfired. Changed ignition coil and spark plug on cyl.. 2. Problem went away.

 

Finally fixed.
60K miles.
Car was fine, no SEL -nothing. Drove to work in the morning. Almost undriveable at lunch -surprise! Haha. Sh* happens. Dealer claimed "national backorder" on parts, +US$850 blah blah. Couldn't wait on Twillen's guy to come through for him. Got 6 coils for US$283 plus free shipping from Pinnacle Nissan in Scottsdale, AZ. Grey dots.

Very easy job. About an hour (taking my sweet, sweet time) including 6 plugs (surprised to see that recent 60K service done when car was at 53K, didn't include new plugs!). I am NOT a car guy. I can change the oil and that's about it. My gf could have done this job. Save your money, do it yourself! Only tip is to move the accelerator/cruise control cables (I guess?) out of the way when doing the, um, coil that's on the windshield side closest to the driver's side *blush*. Oh, the green cable clip release thing, use a screwdriver to push the arrow notch all the way down -it will hold itself in upon release, for those who have sparrow hands like me...

Anyone want to buy a mystery pack of old coils? haha!

 

im waiting for my coils now. Tis is such a big problem, Nissan should really do something

 

Ugh. My '00 GLE began to misfire a few weeks ago during a cold snap in South Texas. Paid the service advisor at my local dealer $79 to pull a couple codes (P0306 and P1320) and tell me I needed to replace all six coils, at 75 bux a copy plus another coupla C-notes or so to install. A little incredulous at the recommendation, I balked at the repairs and drove my stuttering vehicle home to search the 'net, promptly discovering this discussion thread.

After perusing thorougly, I've decided to replace just the one implicated on cylinder 6 since it's easily accessible. If that settles things down, then I'll call the job done; otherwise, I'll order the other five and put them in. Incidentally, I ordered from nissan-auto-parts.com, $46.70. Would have gone through Dave Burnett, but he's in-state for me and would've charged me a share for the Governor.

Once the problem is solved, will the SES lamp extinguish on its own, or will I need to get it reset?

 

wow i didn't know EVERYONE had this prob
now i don't feel like i have the only max with problems
had to replace my 2nd ignition coil.
i guess us 2000 guys have to live with this. it really sux

 

2000 GLE. I replaced my coils November of 2003 w/ about 55000 miles. I had the symptoms u guys are experiencing. I called DaveB and got the updated coils WITH THE SILVER DOT. 13 months later, now @ 77000 miles, I haven't experienced those symptoms again. So, make sure when ordering the ignition coils that they have the silver dot on them.

 

I have just bought my car about 5 months ago with 70000 miles on it how can i tell if my coils are goin?? and how can i tell if they have been replaced???? one last thing when im exactly at 40 and let go of the gas the car lags a lil ( like as if i touched the brakes a lil) and then when i hit the gas it jerks a lil, and there will be a very light ticking sound and the harder i hit the gas the louder it will get and the car will drive kinda crapy until i stop. no lights (THANK GOD) but what does this mean???

 

my moms 96 I30T has the same issue

 

any idea wat it could be?

 

My car is acting up lately; it hesitated pretty badly after 3k rpms. The car is slow as hell, in fact I got pulled on by a early 90s non SHO Tauras. My coils have the Grey dot on them and I just swapped out the plugs. I have a feeling its either the coils or the MAF thats bad.

 

You probably need the JB Weld VIAS fix. I did - what a difference!

This should get you started: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=341077

And put me down for 4 coils replaced so far.....

 

Replaced the coils and plugs this weekend. Took maybe 45 minutes.

The new coils and plugs make a huge difference. The car idles MUCH better, I have no pinging problems, and overall runs more smoothly. I suspect the problems I was having were more severe than I thought.

This is CLEARLY a DIY job. Just make sure not to cross-thread a plug.

 

what pinging problem did you have????would it take forever before it reached a higher rmp

 

Substantial pinging under load in 3rd and 4th gears is mainly what I'm referring to. It was inconsistent and came at times where there should have been none - like 3rd gear at 50 mph. I always used premium gas.

Normally, you expect and will get from the VQ slight pinging if you are in too high a gear going uphill for example - owners manual considers that normal.

If you are having trouble reaching redline once you get above 5k rpms and in 4th gear, then it might be a vias problem. I doubt you could tell if you were having trouble reaching higher rpms in the lower gears. My experience with a broken vias was that the car felt like it was not accellerating above 5k and just making noise.

 

what about in like first gear did anything happen there cuzz thats wat im getting its mostly in first gear its really rough and hard to get up to 4 rpm

 

You most likely have a bad maf. Been there done that too. Check around on the forum for the best place to order the inexpensive replacement. There is one that is 400? and one that is less than 100. Same thing, but different part number. Your Nissan guy may not know/or be honest enough to tell you about the cheap one.

 

Man im soo screwed im just gonna replace both becuase some say maf some say its coils u dont think its the (god for bid) tranny??

 

I would start with the cheaper solution - the MAF. Are you getting any codes?

I'll tell you this, I've had all three problems (vias, maf, coils) and what you have only sounds like my maf.

What happens when you get above 4k? Do you get a lot of pinging when driving?

 

bro i got the same **** in my 2k... it pings every know in then and looses power if i hit the gas hard around 2-3k ... IM ready to replace the maf and coils also

 

actually if i slam the gas the car will goo but it wont under like 2k-3k rpm

 

Sounds like maf - replace it first.

 

Replaced mine at 65k. I just replaced all 6. Car was out of warranty but I just replaced them myself and save all of the labor costs.

Sign the petition!!