Y and B install?
#1
Y and B install?
Not having the search function stinks. I'm going to be getting the WSP Y and B pipes installed this week and was wondering if anyone could email me some pics of the install with info, obsticles and suggestions for the install. Example: Heat shield, banging, etc. Thank you guys!
#5
No. I'm taking it to AutoThority in fairfax. I don't have a plethory or tools and my HOA prohibits me working on my car in the townhouse parking lot. I can't wait to by the mother ship so I don't have to worry about HOA.
#6
Originally posted by Virus
No. I'm taking it to AutoThority in fairfax. I don't have a plethory or tools and my HOA prohibits me working on my car in the townhouse parking lot. I can't wait to by the mother ship so I don't have to worry about HOA.
No. I'm taking it to AutoThority in fairfax. I don't have a plethory or tools and my HOA prohibits me working on my car in the townhouse parking lot. I can't wait to by the mother ship so I don't have to worry about HOA.
I have a y-pipe that I will be installing soon. I hope to do the install in a friend's garage.
#7
I chose them because a coworker has had alot of work done with them and they have always provided good service. I had my UDP installed by them and so far I haven't had any of the problems with belts squeeking like others have.
#10
Warning:
The Y hangs too low. I had mine installed 2 Saturdays ago. Basically what happens is that the rear section of the Y pipe hangs lower than the stock Y. So that brings the Cat and the B pipe lower. In doing so, there is a metal support brace under the car just to the rear of the Cat that helps with structual support as well as a "safety-catch" for the exhaust system.
Also on mine, the gasket/seal that connects the B pipe to the stock muffler pipe was the wrong size. Not really a problem, but it did require a trip to the local auto store (and the hassle of locating a gasket/seal that fit).
I didn't want to remove the brace, so I took the piping (already installed) to a local muffler shop for advice. They remedied the problem, but it cost an additional $100.
Basically what they did was cut the Y pipe at the Y joint. They then inserted a 1" straight 2.5" tube (yours may be 2.25") at an angle so that the rear section of the Y pipe was raised back into the hole where the factory Y pipe sat. Because of this insertion, they had to remove a 1" section of the B pipe because the WSP Y pipe is now 1" longer. They removed the section after the resonator, but before the bend at the rear of the B pipe.
No curved cuts were made.
I then had them replace the 2" stock muffler pipe with a 2.5" pipe, but it's crushed-bent. It was better than the 2" crush bent section. However, be advised that the 2.5" section is a tight fit over the axel, and may cause a bumping noise if a severe turn is taken at higher speeds.
Also, be advised of the following...
Your fuel/air ratio will change, and may cause a change in gas milage. I didn't notice this until I hit a dyno in Washington D.C. while I was testing some products for the car. I got 11.5 miles/gallon because I was running really really rich. I had a WAI, WSP Y, WSP Cat, WSP B, and a cheap medium-flow muffler (to create some back-pressure). Normal driving yeilded little change in gas milage. It was only noticed when I was consistently flooring/racing the car.
I installed a Greddy E-Manage unit on the car. It basically intercepts the MAF signal and allows you to adjust it. After 6 runs on the dyno, I got it tuned. No installation problems were encountered, and I did it myself.
As for the E-Manage unit... read this:
I drove over 3000 miles in the last 1.5 weeks. 6 days (1500 miles) of that was with the E-Managed installed. Since it's installation, I have consistently maintained over 24 MPG on the highway. Considering that 24 MPG was my "high" point before the install, this was good. On one certain leg of my trip, I got 26.1 MPG and went 440 miles on 1 tank.
I just arrived back in Orlando on Sunday evening and have not yet filled up with gas. Once I have driven 2 or 3 tanks worth in the city, I'll post a whole thread regarding the unit.
Just wanted you to be informed about what I ran into.
The Y hangs too low. I had mine installed 2 Saturdays ago. Basically what happens is that the rear section of the Y pipe hangs lower than the stock Y. So that brings the Cat and the B pipe lower. In doing so, there is a metal support brace under the car just to the rear of the Cat that helps with structual support as well as a "safety-catch" for the exhaust system.
Also on mine, the gasket/seal that connects the B pipe to the stock muffler pipe was the wrong size. Not really a problem, but it did require a trip to the local auto store (and the hassle of locating a gasket/seal that fit).
I didn't want to remove the brace, so I took the piping (already installed) to a local muffler shop for advice. They remedied the problem, but it cost an additional $100.
Basically what they did was cut the Y pipe at the Y joint. They then inserted a 1" straight 2.5" tube (yours may be 2.25") at an angle so that the rear section of the Y pipe was raised back into the hole where the factory Y pipe sat. Because of this insertion, they had to remove a 1" section of the B pipe because the WSP Y pipe is now 1" longer. They removed the section after the resonator, but before the bend at the rear of the B pipe.
No curved cuts were made.
I then had them replace the 2" stock muffler pipe with a 2.5" pipe, but it's crushed-bent. It was better than the 2" crush bent section. However, be advised that the 2.5" section is a tight fit over the axel, and may cause a bumping noise if a severe turn is taken at higher speeds.
Also, be advised of the following...
Your fuel/air ratio will change, and may cause a change in gas milage. I didn't notice this until I hit a dyno in Washington D.C. while I was testing some products for the car. I got 11.5 miles/gallon because I was running really really rich. I had a WAI, WSP Y, WSP Cat, WSP B, and a cheap medium-flow muffler (to create some back-pressure). Normal driving yeilded little change in gas milage. It was only noticed when I was consistently flooring/racing the car.
I installed a Greddy E-Manage unit on the car. It basically intercepts the MAF signal and allows you to adjust it. After 6 runs on the dyno, I got it tuned. No installation problems were encountered, and I did it myself.
As for the E-Manage unit... read this:
I drove over 3000 miles in the last 1.5 weeks. 6 days (1500 miles) of that was with the E-Managed installed. Since it's installation, I have consistently maintained over 24 MPG on the highway. Considering that 24 MPG was my "high" point before the install, this was good. On one certain leg of my trip, I got 26.1 MPG and went 440 miles on 1 tank.
I just arrived back in Orlando on Sunday evening and have not yet filled up with gas. Once I have driven 2 or 3 tanks worth in the city, I'll post a whole thread regarding the unit.
Just wanted you to be informed about what I ran into.
#11
Re: Re: Y and B install?
Originally posted by jarturo
What are they going to charge for the Y and B pipe install?
Jack
What are they going to charge for the Y and B pipe install?
Jack
With this in mind, if anyone can point some areas of trouble that may possibly come about, I would be very appreciative. I'm having my car dynoed tomorrow at Springfield Motorsport. Is that a good place?
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