I was driving around and it started sounding like shyt Im an audio fan so I know its blown for the mean time i just disconnected it because i couldnt stand it. Then i went to the local audio store and they said either get another Bose Sub or go with a JL cuz they are the only 2 that run at 3ohms is this true? what else can i do cuz if i replace everything its gonna cost like 2 grand helppp me. anyone have an extra bose sub laying around

 

You can easily replace the Bose sub with another. Try a junkyard. Chances are that you were jamming it when it blew so maybe you outta upgrade and replace with an aftermarket amp and sub. It won't cost 2 grand. Should be able to do something simple for under $500.

My 12" works just fine.

 

But i heard with an aftermarket amp and sub that when i rev the engine u will be able to hear it through the speakers I already have 2 12" Alpine Type R but am afraid to put em in cuz of this the 2G's was replacing with an after market deck and mids is that true about the reving?

 

I've never heard of this being an issue. I think someone's blowing smoke your way. If your amp has high level inputs or u use a LOC or BOSE adapter you can interface an aftermarket amp no problem. I'm running aftermarket front components on an amp, stock rears on the Bose amp, and aftermarket amp and sub on the stock HU 6 disc with no problems. The noise issue you are describing sounds like ground loop, which is a high pitched whine that can occur with grounding problems---in the case of a sub you can't have this type of noise because of the high frequency. Do you want to change the HU too?

 

personally i just want maybe 2 12" and stock bose mids that would be fine with me any suggestions? u think they were ****ting me about the reving?

 

If you are keeping the stock HU and Bose fronts and rears, you shouldn't have any noise issues. You will need to interface with the HU for amp input. Get a PAC LOC or a Bose interface to convert to low level input. Use the output from the HU as the source--not the Bose sub output. You can remove the Bose sub for use the hole as a vent for your subs (assuming yours is the same setup as mine.)

Piece o cake bro

PS--I wouldn't go back to that shop you've been dealing with.

 

The noise they are talking about is normally caused by the alternator. They make filters to get it out, can't be more than like 5 bucks. If you have to do it this way you will need a seperate Hi/Low converter and the filter plugs in between the hi/low and the amp via the RCA cables. In anycase though you should have a crossover in the amp that and it's cutoff frequency should be much lower than the noise.

 

You can take this for what it's worth: noise filters are nothing more than a "band-aid" for the problem---this coming from a former audio installer. It's caused by inferior cabling, cable routing, or inferior components. Filters are ALWAYS the absolute last resort to a good installer. You should eliminate the source of the noise versus trying to cover it up with a filter. Use quality components and make secure connections and everything should be fine.

There are usually only 3 kinds of noise: ignition, alternator whine, and ground loop. The only one that could be a potential problem for him would be ignition because it is sometimes on a low enough frequency to be audible in a sub.