RSB problem!!!
#1
RSB problem!!!
Under compression the rear brake lines touch the RSB mounts. How is this avoided? I have moved the mounts front and back but the lines get crimped under compression. Design flaw?
#3
Originally posted by spta97
This is what I did. I think I'll move the mounts back closer to the bend, but other than that it worked out. Ask questions if you don't get the jist from the pic.
*edit* This is the Cattman performance one
![](http://images.cardomain.com/member_img_b/260000-260999/260322_39_full.jpg)
This is what I did. I think I'll move the mounts back closer to the bend, but other than that it worked out. Ask questions if you don't get the jist from the pic.
*edit* This is the Cattman performance one
BTW moving the mounts in more (about 2.25 inches) made a night and day difference. The car rotates much better now.
#5
Originally posted by Maximam
Thanks for the help. I have my mounts about that far back now and it helps. I had two people jump up and down in the trunk to get full compression and it seemed ok. With the struts disconnected, the brake line interfered with the mount under compression. I am thinking that amount of compression was past the struts bumpstop.
BTW moving the mounts in more (about 2.25 inches) made a night and day difference. The car rotates much better now.
Thanks for the help. I have my mounts about that far back now and it helps. I had two people jump up and down in the trunk to get full compression and it seemed ok. With the struts disconnected, the brake line interfered with the mount under compression. I am thinking that amount of compression was past the struts bumpstop.
BTW moving the mounts in more (about 2.25 inches) made a night and day difference. The car rotates much better now.
#6
Originally posted by Maximax2
I haven't noticed any crimping under compression, but I did what spta did (I think) and moved the trailing arm brackets about 5" from the end. This way they're behind (to the rear of the car) the brake line bracket, and I could re-install. The only thing I'm a little concerned about is rubbing on the bolt - noticed yesterday that the bolt has sawed through the electrical tape I added. Don't know if this means a) need to monitor this forever and change tape when necessary, or b) electrical tape is a lot easier for the bolt to cut than the actual rubber coated brake line...
I haven't noticed any crimping under compression, but I did what spta did (I think) and moved the trailing arm brackets about 5" from the end. This way they're behind (to the rear of the car) the brake line bracket, and I could re-install. The only thing I'm a little concerned about is rubbing on the bolt - noticed yesterday that the bolt has sawed through the electrical tape I added. Don't know if this means a) need to monitor this forever and change tape when necessary, or b) electrical tape is a lot easier for the bolt to cut than the actual rubber coated brake line...
![](http://stillen.com/product_images/304200.jpg)
See how the bar is flat at the ends? The mounts are very slim.
#7
Originally posted by Maximam
Thanks for the help. I have my mounts about that far back now and it helps. I had two people jump up and down in the trunk to get full compression and it seemed ok. With the struts disconnected, the brake line interfered with the mount under compression. I am thinking that amount of compression was past the struts bumpstop.
BTW moving the mounts in more (about 2.25 inches) made a night and day difference. The car rotates much better now.
Thanks for the help. I have my mounts about that far back now and it helps. I had two people jump up and down in the trunk to get full compression and it seemed ok. With the struts disconnected, the brake line interfered with the mount under compression. I am thinking that amount of compression was past the struts bumpstop.
BTW moving the mounts in more (about 2.25 inches) made a night and day difference. The car rotates much better now.
#8
Originally posted by spta97
Did you move them toward the front or rear of the car? The reason I moved them there was because someone said it increased the effect of the RSB. To be honest, I think my FSTB made more of a difference. I think I'll try moving the mounts to the end where they are supposed to be.
Did you move them toward the front or rear of the car? The reason I moved them there was because someone said it increased the effect of the RSB. To be honest, I think my FSTB made more of a difference. I think I'll try moving the mounts to the end where they are supposed to be.
Actually I just moved the mounts toward the rear of the car and it made a night and day difference in the rotation of the car. The understeer just went by by. I have 2.5 inches of the bar showing in front of the bushings. The RSB made a BIG difference.
The FSTB did tighten up the steering very well but also increased understeer doing it. Now the RSB helped that problem.
IMO, doing just one without the other makes for an unbalanced car and is not better. In other words, just bolting up parts does little or nothing for you without knowing the effect of it. If you were only going to bolt on a FSTB you would be doing yourself an injustice IMO. With the springs,shocks,FSTB and RSB the maxima is a totally different car
![Big Grin](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
![laugh](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/laugh.gif)
#9
Originally posted by Maximam
Have you seen the design of the Stillen? A MUCH better design. I may switch. I should have just went with the Stillen instead of trying to save $$$.
See how the bar is flat at the ends? The mounts are very slim.
Have you seen the design of the Stillen? A MUCH better design. I may switch. I should have just went with the Stillen instead of trying to save $$$.
![](http://stillen.com/product_images/304200.jpg)
See how the bar is flat at the ends? The mounts are very slim.
![Big Grin](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
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HerpDerp1919
3rd Generation Maxima (1989-1994)
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09-29-2015 02:02 PM