Whachu talk'n bout spirilis? There is a period between those two sentences.

I ALWAYS use dielectric grease, I just never knew there was a thicker version, which makes sense for high heat areas.

 

I just put the Bosh Platinums in ( got them for free) and the car runs great!

 

woops. I need to go back to college and take english again

I think the dielectric grease most people use on spark plugs is the "thicker type" I'm talking about. I've seen a thinner type called "bulb grease", which I believe is the same **** (silicone dielectric grease), just thinner (and not as good for high-temp stuff).
Don't mind me, I'm rambling

 

I can't write for sheit, so I also need a refresher course or TWO.

Yeah, I'm sure it exists, I've just never looked for it. I can definitely use some.

 

Some cars traditionally have regular spark plug that requires to change during a tune up every 15k-30k. Isn't Platinum Spark should be replace like almost every 100k or is that what they say in the owner's manual? I'm starting to wonder if my car really don't have a platinum spark since most of you guys are having your replace before the 30k mark. My car is running just fine just as I bought it brand new, yet it only have 22k miles

 

I think they Owners' Manual recommends 60K, but I could be wrong. However, too many people have changed them sooner and said they were pretty bad for me to wait that long.

I'm planning on changing every 30K with copper, but may try Iridiums to see what all the hype is about.

 

Mine says like 105K miles...

Put it another way-- You could go to 105K miles on the stock plugs just fine, but you'll likely be having problems sometime before then, and the plugs'll be a B*T*H to remove... thus doing it every 60k is a good compromise. Unless yours happens to be a weird one of the bunch, yours shouldn't have any troubles at 60K miles, but that's a good time to do it anyway--do it before the threads seize up and before problems start occurring...

 

IceY2K1 -- "bulb grease" is available in small packets at Autozone/Advance Auto Parts/etc... I never use it either, sounds a tad pointless unless you're really **** about rusting the connectors/harnesses for the bulbs

 

I'm a HUGE fan of dielectric grease, so mark me as ****. I just hate doing things twice, so I overkill it the first time. Maybe bulb grease and heat shrink aren't necessary, but I figure they can't hurt anytime I make an electrical contact/splice.

I don't want bulb grease, I want the THICK stuff for high temp areas like the plug boots. I'll look next time I'm in the parts store, I've just never seen it before. However, you know how it is when you aren't looking for something.

 

I tried to find an equivalent for a Sentra which I think uses the same plug PLFR5A Plats and there is no copper equivalent so the best you can do is go colder with Plats which is better than nothing I guess but I would still be cautious with spray.
Hopefully NGK will come out with a copper replacement soon. Those plugs are almost a 1/4 mile long, much longer than the VQ30 plugs.

 

NO, alcohol dries out rubber and makes it crack.

The military now specs soap and water to clean the rubber gas masks, not alcholos wipes as before as the masks were developing cracks. I know that these boots are not going to protect your life but thats my 10 cents.

 

Seriously guys where can I get some NGK coppers for my VQ30? Has to be local!

 

advance auto or poop boys.

 

Seriously guys where can I get some NGK coppers for my VQ30? Has to be local![________________________________
Get the exact NGK part number from www.ngk.com. Then go to your local supplier with that number. Stock item, everyone should carry on ther shelves.

 

Total out-on-a-limb question, but how about cleaning the rubber using alcohol, then drenching it in silicone spray? would that re-moisturize the rubber

 

I asked my local Advance Auto (which is also a regional 'warehouse') and they did not stock the NGK V-Power for the VQ30DE, in fact I don't think they had it in their database...

I'm gonna get the right P/N from ngk.com and check with them sometime to see if they stock it (but don't have it in their new computer system for some reason)

...

Looks like the P/N for the V-Power is BKR5E-11. That's listed as "Traditional spark plug". They have one listed right above it on ngk's site, BKR5ES-11, which is a "Traditional spark plug" but isn't listed as V-Power in the "More info" page...
The V-Power is also listed as NGK Stock # "6953", if that means anything to anyone
Here's all the specs it lists: " 14mm, 3/4" reach, 5/8" hex, gasket seat, ISO length, resistor, projected tip, V-power (v-grooved center electrode), .044" gap"

 

Cool - let me know which store type you find happens to carry it, if you do find out.

I don't have a pep boys locally. I was in autozone just now and didn't see any - though I didn't look so hard.

Is there any need to change wires? The parts guy locally said that the car "doesn't have wires per se".

 

It doesn't have wires at all, so you don't have to change any wires. Just spark plugs

 

Sweet I called my nissan parts department and he didn't know the NGK stock number (or couldn't be bothered to get it). At NGK.com they have some platinums there for like $3/piece. My place wanted $11, but then ngk also has I think double platinums for $11/piece. Is that likely the OEM part that Nissan uses?

NGK also has two copper brands - would it matter which one? I'm gonna hope that autozone has some in stock.

Just found it I think: PFR5G-11. Yep, I guess the dealer isn't ripping me IF I go with them.

 

They list 2 types of copper plugs, but I'm not sure if it matters which one you use--however, the one WITHOUT the 'S' in the middle of the part #, is the V-Power type, which I believe is better...
As for using copper vs. platinum, use platinums if you want them to last a long time, however some people need copper for specific reasons (forced induction), or some people say coppers fire better than platinums (???)

If you get platinums, get the $11/plug double-tipped platinums... I'm pretty sure you're getting what you pay for, but I don't know what NGK's non-double-tipped platinums are like.

 

I think I'll see if I can get the damn things out tomorrow, or tonight. Then, if i can and they need it I'll buy some. Based on my experience removing the rear O2 sensor last year (that took forever!) I am not tooo optimistic about these coming out, but we'll see! If I can find the NGK coppers locally I think I'll go with them. Otherwise I'll just eat the $70 for a 6 pack of platinums.

 

1 step colder copper
i think the the model is BKRE6-11 or something


I would just go with a platinum 1 step colder recommended by factory....

 

Poop boys charges $19 for NGK platinums each

 

Yup, those are the ones I bought a while back at Murray's.

 

no they dont...

 

I just finished putting in a new set of NGK Platinums. Feels nice.

 

Damn I use low octane gas and havn't changed my plugs, at 97,000 now!!!
Max runs great!!!

 

Just changed my plugs for the second time at 118k about a month ago. For a modern car with a transverse V6 I find the Max pretty easy to change plugs. I've had some nightmare rear firewall/cylinder bank clearance issues on American V6's before. I've been using Bosch Platimum +4's for the last two changes after stock plugs on my gen 4, always ran great for me. No problem removing after 60k w/anti-seize. Anyone had bad experiences with Bosch vs stock plugs, or slight benefits with stock vs Bosch?

Anyone out there use irridium plugs? Performance increases from them? Worth the cost? Change 'em at 250k??

 

Well I got at two of the plugs to see how they were (car at 56k) and they were both fine. I couldn't be bothered to check the rest right now. They also came out quite easily which makes me wonder if the previous owner had changed them already (they were oem plugs).

 

When I searched, I found extensive debates on this issue. The general conclusion, which I agree with, is that Iridium is the best.

 

I heard that platinum spark plugs also hold the gap better than copper ones.

 

Copper is a better conductor of electricity than plats.

Plats will last longer but coppers give the best spark. Take your pick!

 

i did mine today! i got the NGK platinum standard plugs. i read in the ESM that there r 3 different types for the 2k2 from nissan NGK PLFR4a-11, PLFR5a-11 and PLFR6a-11 4 is hot 5 is standard and 6 is cold. i wanted the cold but the dealership would have had to order them. all in all i can feel a major difference. i have 57k on the car and the plugs were NASTY! deffinately changes ur plugs before 100k. i couldnt imagine waiting 40k more miles to change them.... cant believe nissan claims they r good for 100k.

will

will

 

I have all three sets. I am running the hot plugs right now for NA. The butt dyno never really said anything over the medium plugs.

 

Nissan told me last Sat not to touch them till 100k..... Im guessing I should change them..... im at 53k..

 

There is a difference between a part failing and a part not working to its max capacity.

I think that the plugs will work until 100K miles. Thats what they are designed to do, BUT they will start loosing some of their spark along the way. Thats how Nissan can say they are 100K plugs, but us performance nuts should change sooner!

 

definately change em if u want ur power. day 2 with the new plugs and wow its a new car!

will

 

I've used this in the past, found it at R&S Strauss. Not sure if they carry it anymore. I'm sure you can find some other brand that performs the same function:

 

Any auto parts store will carry that grease (but it may be another brand) you can get a tube enough for may changes for about a dollar.

 

Same here. I got em off ebay for some crazy price like 12 for $7.