View Poll Results: What kind of plugs did you use?
stock NGK Platinum



212
58.89%
NGK Copper



59
16.39%
other brand of platinum



30
8.33%
other brand of copper



3
0.83%
Denso Iridium



56
15.56%
Voters: 360. You may not vote on this poll
Replace Spark Plugs: Platinum or Copper?
Replace Spark Plugs: Platinum or Copper?
I just bought some NGK V-Power copper spark plugs. (BKR5E-11) They were $1.79 each. I've decided to go with these instead of the stock NGK Platinums because it's alot cheaper and I don't really mind changing my plugs more often.
To those that have changed there plugs, what did you go with?
Also, I have 43k on my car now. Should I put my new plugs in now? My car seems to be running top notch. I was gonna wait until 45k perhaps 50k.
-Jason
To those that have changed there plugs, what did you go with?
Also, I have 43k on my car now. Should I put my new plugs in now? My car seems to be running top notch. I was gonna wait until 45k perhaps 50k.
-Jason
These engines have the Direct Ignition system where the coil has a small boot which goes around the spark plug and coil terminal, correct?
Be sure every time you change the plugs to clean the hell out of those boots and apply ample silicone grease, along with cleaning the coils themselves--I remember dealing with the Nissan Pulsar NX's (CA18DE, one of the first Direct Ignition engines Nissan made I think?) it was common to clean the coils, boots and apply grease to limit the likelihood of coil failure...
Be sure every time you change the plugs to clean the hell out of those boots and apply ample silicone grease, along with cleaning the coils themselves--I remember dealing with the Nissan Pulsar NX's (CA18DE, one of the first Direct Ignition engines Nissan made I think?) it was common to clean the coils, boots and apply grease to limit the likelihood of coil failure...
Just did mine today in our 2K GLE. Its only got 36k on it but I was having a very slight hesitation when I first started it and would lag a bit under harder acceleration, seems to be better. Car definitley accels smoother. 2 of the plugs were worn a bit weird. I used the NGK platinums because I was told these motors are very sensitive to other plugs. Peace
Last car that I had(2K Honda Accord V6 Coupe)got thousands of $$$ of work done at a local speed shop. On my Max got the Y-pipe, Intake, PIAA's all around, etc. At 50K, called the owner of the speed shop and I asked to hook me up on some spark plugs for the Max, he adv. to go with stock plugs, at the dealer. He claims output of the engine is maximized with the stock NGK's. That's just my $.02. If this guy could squeeze another $1-200 out of me, it wouln't be a problem. I trust him. However, having spent thousands of $$$ at his store, I beleive that he is looking out for me and my ride. By the way, I did replace them at 60K, best $$$$ ever spent on my car.
i purchased the same ngk coppers and was not going to replace them til 45k but i ended up doing mine at 30k. copper is much cheaper and i dont have a problem replacing them on a regular basis. the plugs i pulled had normal wear and could have gone longer but why not replace when the plug was 1.50. the other reason i replaced them at 30k was so it was easy to keep up when i would replace them in 15k intervals.
Originally posted by sloppymax
i purchased the same ngk coppers and was not going to replace them til 45k but i ended up doing mine at 30k. copper is much cheaper and i dont have a problem replacing them on a regular basis. the plugs i pulled had normal wear and could have gone longer but why not replace when the plug was 1.50. the other reason i replaced them at 30k was so it was easy to keep up when i would replace them in 15k intervals.
i purchased the same ngk coppers and was not going to replace them til 45k but i ended up doing mine at 30k. copper is much cheaper and i dont have a problem replacing them on a regular basis. the plugs i pulled had normal wear and could have gone longer but why not replace when the plug was 1.50. the other reason i replaced them at 30k was so it was easy to keep up when i would replace them in 15k intervals.
I'll replace mine at 45k.
Sloppy, I heard that the proper gap is .044". Is that correct?
I trust NGK over any other brand just because I've heard bad things before about Nissans and Autolite plugs (not surprising, Autolite sucks :-P). NGK V-Power resistor-type copper spark plugs would be my preferred spark plug, as they're very cheap and my local Advance Auto Parts stocks them (at least they did for my old Mazda). Using them instead of Platinums might reduce the probability of pinging, so that's a plus. I don't have any problem with changing them more often.
Mine's almost got 30K mi on it, maybe I'll change them (& clean the coils/boots) at 45-50K :-D
Mine's almost got 30K mi on it, maybe I'll change them (& clean the coils/boots) at 45-50K :-D
Originally posted by 00MaxSE

I'll replace mine at 45k.
Sloppy, I heard that the proper gap is .044". Is that correct?
I'll replace mine at 45k.
Sloppy, I heard that the proper gap is .044". Is that correct?
Originally posted by SR20DEN
Still lashing out because you have the slowest Maxima in the group?
Still lashing out because you have the slowest Maxima in the group?
Originally posted by spirilis
I trust NGK over any other brand just because I've heard bad things before about Nissans and Autolite plugs (not surprising, Autolite sucks :-P). NGK V-Power resistor-type copper spark plugs would be my preferred spark plug, as they're very cheap and my local Advance Auto Parts stocks them (at least they did for my old Mazda). Using them instead of Platinums might reduce the probability of pinging, so that's a plus. I don't have any problem with changing them more often.
Mine's almost got 30K mi on it, maybe I'll change them (& clean the coils/boots) at 45-50K :-D
I trust NGK over any other brand just because I've heard bad things before about Nissans and Autolite plugs (not surprising, Autolite sucks :-P). NGK V-Power resistor-type copper spark plugs would be my preferred spark plug, as they're very cheap and my local Advance Auto Parts stocks them (at least they did for my old Mazda). Using them instead of Platinums might reduce the probability of pinging, so that's a plus. I don't have any problem with changing them more often.
Mine's almost got 30K mi on it, maybe I'll change them (& clean the coils/boots) at 45-50K :-D
When I go to change my plugs, I want to clean my coils/boots. What is needed to do this and how do I do it? Someone told me to used silicone grease after they're cleaned. Should I do that?
I know I'm gonnna use antiseize grease on the threads for the plugs.
Thanks,
J.
Yup, use silicone tuneup grease (the thick stuff, not the thin stuff like "bulb grease") on the boots so they seal between the spark plug and the boot. Also put a small ring around the coil's terminal so it seals between the boot and the coil. This'll prevent any flashover in the coil from the high voltage terminal to ground.
As for cleaners to use, I don't know... maybe something with acetone in it? (like intake/throttle body cleaner or Brake & Parts cleaner?)
As for cleaners to use, I don't know... maybe something with acetone in it? (like intake/throttle body cleaner or Brake & Parts cleaner?)
I'd stick with the nissan supplied NGK Platinums. I had them in my 4th GEN and replaced at 60k and 120k, and never had a single problem or check engine light until I totalled the car at 160k. Luckily now my 02 Altima 2.5s and 00 I30T are not recommended to replace to 105K, because those NGK are 12 dollars and some change each.
Originally posted by nissanman7
I'd stick with the nissan supplied NGK Platinums. I had them in my 4th GEN and replaced at 60k and 120k, and never had a single problem or check engine light until I totalled the car at 160k. Luckily now my 02 Altima 2.5s and 00 I30T are not recommended to replace to 105K, because those NGK are 12 dollars and some change each.
I'd stick with the nissan supplied NGK Platinums. I had them in my 4th GEN and replaced at 60k and 120k, and never had a single problem or check engine light until I totalled the car at 160k. Luckily now my 02 Altima 2.5s and 00 I30T are not recommended to replace to 105K, because those NGK are 12 dollars and some change each.
I'm a big fan of Platinum plugs and synthetic oil. I've only had one car in the family where the plugs were easy access (Saturn) All others are a bit of a pain. I haven't looked at the Max. Personally, anything that lasts longer is worth it. I also like to stick with stock parts ie: what comes out goes back in. If its platinum coming out, its platunum going back in. NGKs sound $$$ I've always used Bosch on other cars....... but having the car run right is very important and my time is worth a lot. if it takes me a weekend day to do the job Its worth putting in the Plats so I don't have to do it again for a long time.
I'm surprised people here who are spending money on mods are putting a cheaper plug in.
I'm surprised people here who are spending money on mods are putting a cheaper plug in.
All the cars I've worked on were easy (or semi-easy) access; Ford Tempo, Nissan Pulsar NX SE (CA18DE), '90 Mazda 626 (F2 engine). The VQ looks easy enough since the rear coils unbolt and pop out without removing anything like the plenum, and the fronts are concealed under a plastic cover.
I'd say around 50k miles I'll take mine out and have a look.
I'd say around 50k miles I'll take mine out and have a look.
[i]
I'm surprised people here who are spending money on mods are putting a cheaper plug in. [/B]
I'm surprised people here who are spending money on mods are putting a cheaper plug in. [/B]
Originally posted by sloppymax
but if the copper plugs perform at least the same but last 30k instead of 60k why not pay 1.50 instead of 8 or 9. i have no problem with the writeup i got off sprintmax's site to go ahead and do the plugs once a year.
but if the copper plugs perform at least the same but last 30k instead of 60k why not pay 1.50 instead of 8 or 9. i have no problem with the writeup i got off sprintmax's site to go ahead and do the plugs once a year.
So if NGK plats are the stock plugs that my dealer is selling for $11, where can I buy the cheaper NGK coppers? I have 56k on the car and wanted to change them this saturday, so I need to have a local source (autozone or whatever) if I'm going with coppers.
Also, the NGK Plats are pre-set for the maxima, correct? I guess I'd need a spacer if I go with NGK coppers from another source?
Also, the NGK Plats are pre-set for the maxima, correct? I guess I'd need a spacer if I go with NGK coppers from another source?
Originally Posted by sloppymax
i hope you pay someone to do the plugs for you cause if you leave them in there for 100k, it wont be a pretty site to do it yourself. most of the service guys at my dealer recommend changing them around 60k even if they are platnium.
coolant change. I asked my service guy about changing the plugs.
He said it's not time. I told him that some of you guys were changing
them earlier and reported worn fouled plugs. He said that those
with bad plugs were using low octane gasoline, reason the plugs
went bad. I personally would like to have mine changed, dealer
wants $125 to do it. It looks like a b1tch to get to the rear plugs.
How difficult is it to change out all six? Help would be appreciated.
I haven't changed mine yet.. I should have many years before i do.
My father has 95K on his 97 Max and he's looking at putting his in to have them changed over the next 10K.
He hasn't had a problem with the car. He uses regular gas, as his only requires regular whereas the 2000 plus are premium.
I have noticed some slight hesitation, but thats only been since like 85K and only b/c I'm sensitive. the hesitation was really bad in our 98 Mecury Mountaneer when it was due for plugs.
My father has 95K on his 97 Max and he's looking at putting his in to have them changed over the next 10K.
He hasn't had a problem with the car. He uses regular gas, as his only requires regular whereas the 2000 plus are premium.
I have noticed some slight hesitation, but thats only been since like 85K and only b/c I'm sensitive. the hesitation was really bad in our 98 Mecury Mountaneer when it was due for plugs.
Originally Posted by cato
Just had our 2000 Max in for 60,000 mile service: transmission and
coolant change. I asked my service guy about changing the plugs.
He said it's not time. I told him that some of you guys were changing
them earlier and reported worn fouled plugs. He said that those
with bad plugs were using low octane gasoline, reason the plugs
went bad. I personally would like to have mine changed, dealer
wants $125 to do it. It looks like a b1tch to get to the rear plugs.
How difficult is it to change out all six? Help would be appreciated.

coolant change. I asked my service guy about changing the plugs.
He said it's not time. I told him that some of you guys were changing
them earlier and reported worn fouled plugs. He said that those
with bad plugs were using low octane gasoline, reason the plugs
went bad. I personally would like to have mine changed, dealer
wants $125 to do it. It looks like a b1tch to get to the rear plugs.
How difficult is it to change out all six? Help would be appreciated.

btw i replaced with boshe platinum 2. about $2 each.
Originally Posted by asu174
Plats are for lazy people.
I say compromise...put plats in the rear and copper in the fronts and only change the rears every other time.

I've read to use alcohol to clean the rubber. Didn't know about the thicker "tune-up" grease. I'll have to find some of that for my 30K change.
Tune-up grease isn't for cleaning, it's for sealing (keeping water out). Alcohol's probably good for cleaning the rubber 
Keeping water out is the main use, but preventing flashover is the other... it's called "silicone dielectric tuneup grease". Don't overuse it though (too much could prevent the coil from making solid contact with the plug)

Keeping water out is the main use, but preventing flashover is the other... it's called "silicone dielectric tuneup grease". Don't overuse it though (too much could prevent the coil from making solid contact with the plug)



