I've tried to find instructions on how to reset the ECU on a 2000 Maxima SE, but i've found several different ways....

What's the correct way to reset it?

I've also heard that if you unplug a transmission sensor it would get rid of valve pinging caused by low octane in the engine?

Help!

 

On 2k models, I've read that simply disconnecting the negative battery cable for 24 hours or more will reset it.

 

sweet - it has to be the negative terminal?

 

yep...as i understand it. i just did it to mine after installing an intake...seemed to work just fine.

 

I was going to ask you also - what's a good mod to install for more horsepower? A better intake?

 

are there any benefits of re-setting it?

 

i just did a OSCAI (homemade or custom cold air intake...cheap, easy to install, and forces cold air into your air box instead of warm air used on name-brand WAI intakes with regular cone filters). do a search for OSCAI to find out more details.

i also just did a GAB (Ghetto Air Box). you just cut off the top of your filter holder that holds the air filter and then slides down into your air box. it allows more air into your engine as well (unforntunately, it would be warm air). colder the air = better!

not sure of any dyno'ed results that prove these intake mods make a huge difference...but seem to work for me on the "butt dyno". plus, the GAB makes a cool grrrrr when you stomp the gas...sounds alot cooler if nothing else!

let me know if you ever want to try either one and i can give you more detailed directions.

 

alot of the guys here have name brand intakes (WAI or Warm Air Intakes) like Injen, Franencar, etc, etc. they are just pipes with cone filters on the end. they pull air from inside the engine bay (air that is obviously hot...hense it would be a Warm Air Intake)

i believe Place Racing is the only company that makes a true CAI (Cold Air Intake) that pulls air from outside the engine bay. remember, the colder the air = better!

 

man...i don't even want to start the debate over what mods make the most hp improvements...i'll leave that up to the other guys here on the .org!

i just did the ones i mentioned above because they were cheap, quick, easy for me to do myself, did i say CHEAP, and seemed to have positive results with people i talked to that had done them to their cars!

 

resetting it will force the ECU to re-learn everything. consider it a fresh start for your ecu! not a requirement...your ECU will eventually adjust automatically to any changes. not sure of any specific "benefits".

 

FYI, I had my battery disconnected for ~1 hour on my 2K SE and the Long Term Fuel Trim values reset to 0 (as well as some emissions system stats were reset to "I", presumably meaning incomplete data), which leads me to believe the ECU was reset...

One trick for speeding up the reset (possibly) is to disconnect the negative side, then push the brake pedal and hold it for a few seconds... forget who suggested this but it was good for resetting the sunroof motor as well. (which, FYI, you press the tilt-up button and hold it for 5 seconds to initialize after disconnecting the battery)
I think the basic idea behind pushing the brake pedal is that the brake lights try to come on, and in the process, the relays/whatever involved with the brake lights drain out any residual capacitance in the electrical system (i.e. from capacitors inside various devices hooked up to the positive circuit holding some charge, which can supply enough voltage/current to keep the ECU from resetting for a while)

 

oh, and please note: this unplugging the negative cable only applys to 2k and 2k1 models. 2k2 and 2k3 Maximas require and more detailed pedal pushing combo. search "resetting ecu" or check the how-to section for more reset directions.

 

Unplugging the positive battery terminal for five minutes will work every time. Even though this will not cause any harm to your car, it is not the best way. When you do this the cars ECU losses all of its stored information that it has retained over the years that you have been driving the car. From doing this you might notice that the tranny shift patterns may be messed up for a while (If it's an auto!) until the ECU re-learns the patterns. The proper way to reset the ECU is to remove it from under the dash and rotate a dial in the upper corner of the case with a flat head screw driver. Rotate the screw once counter clockwise with the ignition on, and hold it there for five seconds before putting it back to the original position. This will get the service engine light blinking with codes, but will also clear the codes at the same time when complete. You can read the codes if you can fing them somewhere on the net.

 

I saw the ECU unit by the gas pedal (is that the ECU?) and I peeled the tape off, i see two holes, but there don't seem to be any screws in there unless I just can't see them from that angle.....


Is this the right place to look?

 

ECU reset and OSCAI info on my page

 

yeah but those instructions for resetting the ECU don't work on a 2000 SE..

 

CORRECT! so just disconnect the cable or go to you local dealership and have them do it...up to you!

 

I've tried every way in the book, and here's my solution. I've got a 2k Max and own a few manuals on the car. Recently, I have had the opporutity to start using the manuals and realized how useless they are. Anyway, I've tried pulling the codes and resetting the ECU by using pedal pushing combinations (don't work for me), and also by looking for a dial on my ECU that should do the same (not there!). Disconnecting the negative battery terminal for 5 minutes works, but is not recommended. I just bought a code scanner for $130, and it is by far the easiest and best way to do it. Everybody should take the plunge and invest in one of these things. They're good for all you cars, and save you $40-$70 every time the stupid light comes on.

 

again, the pedal pushing deal is only for 2k2 or 2k3!

 

Yup, found that out the hard way didn't I. There's so much confusion and different opinions on this that I thought I'd try all possibilities. The EQUUS scanner is flawless!

 

On a 2000 SE auto, I'm having trouble pulling codes with an Actron OBD II Scanner (9035). It won't read anything. Which Equus Scanner are you using? Or what other scanner would work on a 2000?

 

I have an EQUUS Inova 3100. I paid $199 canadian ($130us) I've used it once so far, and it pointed out the exact problem (rear O2 Sensor). I'm glad I didnt' by the Actron setup.