bikesdp

I've been reading prior threads on the subject of the SES light with the stored P1320 code. Unfortunately, I don't find any additional codes to see which cylinder reported the misfire on my Y2K. I saw someone mention that the P030X code might have been retrieved if the ignition were not shut off prior to trying to retrieve the codes. I had turned off the ignition on mine prior to returning home to get the code reader.

So, would it make sense for me to clear the P1320 and see if it comes up again and this time look for additional codes before I pull the key or am I risking the loss of valuable diagnostic information? Or should I just bite the bullet and shop around for all six coils (and plugs while I'm at it)? At 48K mileage with no ext warranty and 1900 miles away from my selling dealer, I don't have much of a chance of a dealer doing this para gratis. The thing is, the car seems to run fine at idle and under load.

Thanks,

Steve

maxi-freak

Hi bikesdp,

Lord no...don't go and buy 6 coils. If it were me, and it's still under warranty I would let the dealership deal with it. Don't clear the code though. They need to get it with the SES on.

If you have to deal with it, then you can use an ohmeter to easily check your coils. If you need help with the procedure then you can get it here.

maxi-freak

MoCoMax

I am getting the same code routinely now, and only occasionally getting a P030x code (in my case, P0304). I can usually feel just a mild stumble under load right about the same time the SES light blinks a few times, then stays on. The first time this happened, the car was under warranty, so I drove it that way for another 6-8 weeks before the occasional stumble turned into a very clear mis-fire. The dealer replaced only the bad coil (cylinder #2) under warranty. Now that the problem has come back with cylinder #4 (and I have a code-reader), I decided just to replace all the damn things, and be done with it. The replacements don't seem to be problematic, and dealers have a tough time keeping them in stock because of all the failures on the old ones.

If I were you, I'd keep clearing the light until you get the P1320 AND a P030x code. That's the only way you'll know for sure which coil is bad. The ohmeter is no guarantee - the coils usually only show a problem under load. Of course, the other alternative is to replace all 6, figuring that they'll all go everntually. (Just don't buy them locally, call DaveB and get them from him).

billyman

iTrader: (2)

My SES light came on today. I immediately took it to AutoZone where they pulled a P1320 code as well. There were no other codes with it either. One point of curiosity...a few months ago I noticed a "clattering" under the hood. Not constantly & not even at predictable times...just intermitten and seldom. I was wondering if this was related to the P1320 problem. Your thoughts???

BTW, my Y2k has just under 45k on it.

bikesdp

Thanks for all the responses folks. I got out my multimeter and if I measured the resistance correctly, I've proved to myself what I've read elsewhere--that it's not a reliable means of determining a bad one. My readings (from pins 1 and 3) read as low as 2.192 up to 2.267, so there's no turd in that punchbowl. The car runs perfectly fine at idle and under a load.

This is the first time I've had this code. I did have the MAF sensor replaced back in April and that required a reprogramming of the ECM. My dealer actually would not honor the emissions 5/50 warranty due to the fact that I had been using aftermarket filters--just paper Fram and one Purolator--not an overly-oiled K&N, but that's a whole other can of worms. They said that the aftermarket filter(s) I had used were smaller than the OEM and as such, dirt got past and hosed the sensor.

OK, so my choices are go see my green-eyed dealer, call DaveB in Austin, or clear the code and pretend it never happened. My guess is the dealer is going to charge me about an hour and a half diagnostic time to tell me they all need to be replaced because they don't know which is bad either.

maxi-freak

I'd reset the code and forget about DaveB since it's running so well.

Also, to disagree with MoCoMax, an ohmeter - preferrably a digital multi-meter IS a sure way of finding a bad coil.

You see you have an NPN power transistor and a transformer in each coil. Your measurement should have been very high resistance when you reversed your leads on pins 1&3 (input to output). If you measure from pins 1 to 2 you should have continuity one way but not the other ( reversing your meter leads). Pin 2 to 3 should be anything but 0 which would mean the transistor is shorted. Pin 3 to spark plug wire should reveal continuity with red on plug wire and black on 3 and very high resistance the other way.

MoCoMax

There are other users on the org who would dispute this. The coils have a tendency to only show a problem under load, and you can't very well test them that way. In addition, the problem can be intermittent. In my case, the #4 coil has thrown a code twice in the last 2 weeks, but the car runs just fine otherwise. On both occasions, the code was thrown under heavy acceleration in low gear, and I could feel the misfire. I'd be willing to bet that the coil would test just fine with a meter, but there's obviously something wrong with it.

maximum007

Hey guys -- couple of questions from a noobie that is in the same boat.

I have a 2K that currently has the SES light on. I took it to AutoZone for their free test, and it was only able to determine that I have a bad ignition coil. Of course, they were not able to tell me which one. This is not new to me as the coil on #2 went bad about 6 months ago when the Nissan dealer raped me for $280 to fix.

Anyway, I am planning on ordering a new coil and replacing it myself. I guess I will either get test the old ones or keep moving the new one until I get lucky. This seems like a real pain in the butt, but it is better than forking out a bunch of cash that I do not have to replace all of the coils.

I have a couple questions for you before I start on this project:
(1) Which coils to buy? Genuine Nissan parts (which I trust less and less these days) or whatever brand AutoZone is selling for $50?
(2) Once the coil is in, is there anyway for me to reset the ECU on a 2K without going to AutoZone, etc? I have read several post about people turning a screw on the ECU (which mine does not appear to have) or performing a sequence of steps on the gas pedal (which has not worked for me as well).
(3) Does anyone know what the layout of the cylinders is? For example, which one is #1 ... etc.

Thanks!

bikesdp

My local Nissan dealer says $69.42 for each coil (same price for either side). I'm going to look around for a better price. I wasn't aware that there were aftermarket offerings. You're going to want to buy an OBD-II reader and use that to clear the code.

---Firewall---
1 3 5

2 4 6
---Radiator---

maximum007

Thanks for the quick reply bikesdp!

Any recommendations for an OSB-II reader? I just did a quick check of the internet and found several models ranging from $150 to $700+. I also saw some kits that are designed for use with a laptop (which I have).

bikesdp

I have this one

spirilis

iTrader: (2)

So what's the scoop on these coils? Any info on WHY they fail, and WHAT specifically fails? Does the power transistor burn out, the secondary or primary coils break...? a short circuit develop between the coils? (that's about all I can imagine causing such a failure... maybe a track of carbon shorts the coil out, like a carbon track inside a distributor cap)

maxi-freak

Yeah I agree with you on that. The DMM is still a good starting point. What fails more than anything in electronic circuits are capacitors and semiconductors (transistors). So in saying that it would be very easy to check for an open or shorted transistor with the DMM. If you have to see it under a load, then you'd better break out the oscilloscope.