I pulled code P1320, which from reading other threads is probably a bad ignition coil. The reader didn't specify which one though. Can anyone tell me if this is safe to ride with for a little while until I can get it fixed. The car is running fine. I would like to fix it myself....anyway to figure out which coil is bad?

 

i would personally recommend replacing all of them. it will eliminate the testing phase but it saves you from replacing another one in say a month or whenever. you can pick the coils up at a great price from dave b, contact info is in the faq. replacing the coils is easy and quick.

 

Had the same thing happen. Nissan pulled the code and since there weren’t any other codes, they weren't able to tell me which one was bad. They took my money, reset the light for me and I was on my way. About a month later, the light was back on. This time I took it to AutoZone and had the codes pulled for FREE. This time I was in luck, there was another code that followed the P1320 telling me that I had a misfire on cylnder#5. I tried the cheap route and replaced all of the spark plugs ($13, per plug was expensive in my book though). My max has 47K on it and the plugs looked like toast, so it probably needed it anyway. Had AutoZone reset the light and I was fine for about a week. The light did eventually come back on with the same P1320. I figured it was time to replace the coils. AutoZone wanted $50.00 per coil, which isn't too bad however, I was told their warehouse was temporarily out and that it might be a month before they could get them in. So I started searching the Internet. I came up with a guy selling 6 brand new coils for $160.00 on ebay. I did the buy now option and snatched them up this morning. I should have them by the weekend. BTW this is the second time I have seen maxima 2000 coils on ebay.

Since I have had a little experience with this problem I suggest you get AutoZone or another company like it to reset the light. I'd wait till the light comes on again and then take it back to see if there is another code that follows to tell you which one is having the problem. Sooner or later it will tell you what is wrong. I wouldn't take it to you dealer, they are just going to tell you that they cannot duplicate the problem and then charge you for their expert advice. I’d say that driving around with a constant SES light on would be alright, but if it starts to blink, I wouldn’t push your luck. Lastly replace them yourself, my dealer wanted $650 for the job. I’ve already replaced the plugs and that was simple enough. If you have a socket set and about 45 min you can easily do it yourself.

Sorry for the long reply.

 

Here's how I did it. Hope it helps:

My first test was to see if all the injectors are ticking (some people use stethoscopes, I used a long screw driver - same effect). Touched the fuel rail next to an injector and feel with the tip of your finger if that injector is "ticking". The check showed that all the injectors were opening and closing, that is, working.

My next step was to sequentially disconnect and reconnect injector electrical connectors. I was unplugging one injector at a time, and if I heard no difference in how the motor sounded, that cylinder was the dead one.
That's how I discovered cylinder #4 - all the others did affect the engine sound when I disconnected them.

Next, I had to find out if that's the _injector_ or the _coil_. I swapped the three front coils places. And the dead cylinder steadily followed the coil from #4 cylinder.

So I replaced it, the Service Engine Soon light went away within the first day of driving, and the car has been having no misfires any more (for about 1 month now).

One can drive with a misfire, not a big deal. I had it for several months before I fixed it.
If I knew at that time, I would have gone to
http://www.nissan-auto-parts-dealer.com/
and ordered myself the right ignition coil. Because I did not know about this web site, I went to a local dealer.

 

I was pulling the same code intermittently and when it did the engine would run rough. It only happened once a month for the first six months and I just ignored it (I knew I would have to change the coils eventually). Then it started happening more than once a week and I was fed up - I bought all six replacement coils and plugs (Thanks Dave B!) and installed them myself.

Lo and behold, when I pulled out the ignition coils I found that two (one front and one rear) had already been replaced by the previous owner (new design with silver dot). That suggests to me that they will all go bad eventually so you might as well just replace them all in one shot.

 

If you car has more than 50K on it, go ahead and replace the plugs when you are changing the coils. Mine has 73K, and I just replaced all of my coils to clear the misfire (thanks Dave B for the sweet price - $50.49/each).

Anyway, new coils were in but the car still felt like it was running a little rough. A couple days later I changed all of the plugs and it is running soooo much better. The old plugs, which were the originals, looked like crap. Of course, if I had just changed the plugs when I was changing the coils I would have saved myself some time.

Peace

 

Will the computer show a code even if the check engine light is not on?

 

not for the coils. there are some ghost codes that trigger codes but no light. best example i can think of is the knock sensor.

 

when you guys say misfire, is that like knocking?

 

I wouldn't say knocking more like a stumble. Like the max is going to stall. At least for me anyway.