H & R spacers installed -and I am not
#1
H & R spacers installed -and I am not
impressed. and yes, I realize this post is semi-useless without pics but bear with me because I think some good will come from this.
First off the 20mm spacers are too wide, IMHO. No clearance problems but the rear wheels now look a bit further out than the fronts, a bit unnatural. Definitely the 15mm are better fit.
But, these things dont fit too well. The outside diameter of the spacers is almost one inch smaller than the diameter of the brake rotor's flange so that there's about a half an inch 'step down' in diameter from the brake flange to the spacer, then the wheel steps back up again to a diameter roughly equal to the rotor's flange. In effect, you now have a wheel/spacer/hub flange 'sandwich' where the middle part of the sandwich (the spacer) is an inch less diameter than the two outside pieces which are the wheels and the rotor flange. It a) looks funny as hell and b) I dont like it because now the force of the wheel is being distributed over a smaller area of the hub/flange.
The other small problem was that the spacer's concentric 'neck' -the little flange on the outboard side of the spacer that creates the concentric hub- is about .20 mm (two tenths of a mm) too small compared to the inner diameter of the wheel's hub centric rings.....in effect, this slop creates a non-centric wheel. I noticed this because the instant I installed the spacers I started getting rear wheel shimmy ...u could feel thru the seat bottom and back -the rear of the car was shaking.
I took the wheels off, pulled the centric rims off the wheel and fit them by hand over the spacer's neck and immediately saw the loose fit/free play. As a temporary fix I wrapped one layer of electrical tape over the neck of the spacer's flange and voila, instant tight fit between the spacer's neck and the centric ring, no shimmy when wheels were re-installed.
What's the good that's coming out of this? Next Tuesday afternoon I'm taking off one of my new spacers and taking it to a good, CNC-capable machine shop nearby and I'm going to get them to build me two new and improved spacers. They will be 14mm thick, will have an outside diameter exactly equal to the Maxima's brake rotor flange -so it will look like a perfect extension of the wheel- and will have the proper near-interference fit between the centric rings and the concentric hub's neck. They will do this using the rest of the other critical measurements from the current spacer as a model.
I dunno how much they will be but I will ask them to quote me a batch of twenty sets....if they work as I expect them to, they will be absolutely perfect, custom-fitted for our cars...
First off the 20mm spacers are too wide, IMHO. No clearance problems but the rear wheels now look a bit further out than the fronts, a bit unnatural. Definitely the 15mm are better fit.
But, these things dont fit too well. The outside diameter of the spacers is almost one inch smaller than the diameter of the brake rotor's flange so that there's about a half an inch 'step down' in diameter from the brake flange to the spacer, then the wheel steps back up again to a diameter roughly equal to the rotor's flange. In effect, you now have a wheel/spacer/hub flange 'sandwich' where the middle part of the sandwich (the spacer) is an inch less diameter than the two outside pieces which are the wheels and the rotor flange. It a) looks funny as hell and b) I dont like it because now the force of the wheel is being distributed over a smaller area of the hub/flange.
The other small problem was that the spacer's concentric 'neck' -the little flange on the outboard side of the spacer that creates the concentric hub- is about .20 mm (two tenths of a mm) too small compared to the inner diameter of the wheel's hub centric rings.....in effect, this slop creates a non-centric wheel. I noticed this because the instant I installed the spacers I started getting rear wheel shimmy ...u could feel thru the seat bottom and back -the rear of the car was shaking.
I took the wheels off, pulled the centric rims off the wheel and fit them by hand over the spacer's neck and immediately saw the loose fit/free play. As a temporary fix I wrapped one layer of electrical tape over the neck of the spacer's flange and voila, instant tight fit between the spacer's neck and the centric ring, no shimmy when wheels were re-installed.
What's the good that's coming out of this? Next Tuesday afternoon I'm taking off one of my new spacers and taking it to a good, CNC-capable machine shop nearby and I'm going to get them to build me two new and improved spacers. They will be 14mm thick, will have an outside diameter exactly equal to the Maxima's brake rotor flange -so it will look like a perfect extension of the wheel- and will have the proper near-interference fit between the centric rings and the concentric hub's neck. They will do this using the rest of the other critical measurements from the current spacer as a model.
I dunno how much they will be but I will ask them to quote me a batch of twenty sets....if they work as I expect them to, they will be absolutely perfect, custom-fitted for our cars...
#3
Depending on how wide the rims you have are & what offset, 5mm spacers should more then be enough. I personally dont plan on getting spacers when I get my 19's a 35mm offset should more then be enough.
#4
I have H&Rs 5mm spacers and I think they are great. I've had nothing but good things to say of them. Now the problem is that I need 15mm out back but I cant get ahold of a set. How much will your CNC guy charge to make you a set? I'm willing to put up some money to have one made for me...infact I bet more than a few of us here on the ORG could use a set. Let me know...
#7
I don't think that would be too safe. You get longer studs because friction is the only things holding on your wheels and when you lug barely fits on the stud the wheel has a chanc eof coming off. Better safe than sorry!
#8
I have the 20mm spacers on my back rims and there is no play between the hub and the center of the spacer that you mentioned. Also, my spacers are not smaller than the rotor plate that they sit on. I would make sure you got the right parts. The part label on the side of my box says:
DRS-System 40mm 114.3/5 66.2mm
inkl. 10xDRS-Bolzen 12255024(H44),R.-o14.25mm
Lager: 7 C13
Art.-Nr.: 04065662
THat is the whole label. For what it's worth, when I first got my spacers, they came with the wrong thread wheel studs. H&R had to send me the right ones. Other than that, no fitment issues at all.
DRS-System 40mm 114.3/5 66.2mm
inkl. 10xDRS-Bolzen 12255024(H44),R.-o14.25mm
Lager: 7 C13
Art.-Nr.: 04065662
THat is the whole label. For what it's worth, when I first got my spacers, they came with the wrong thread wheel studs. H&R had to send me the right ones. Other than that, no fitment issues at all.
#11
H&R spacers are great
I have had 5mm front with 20mm rear with no problems. They fit perfectly and are hubcentric to boot. The tires fit great in the wheel wells with H&R springs with KYB AGX's and 18x8s. Check and make sure they gave you the right ones. They fit perfectly flush to the rotors with no fitment issues. The only problem I have is that the rear studs they gave me are 1.5 a little bigger than the fronts studs. I may be wrong with the size but you get my drift. H&R's products are well built to serve our needs.
#13
RichK...thanks....I'll be looking carefully at the box when I get home tonight. I definitely know the box has the 04065662 part number on it...will check the rest of the markings on the box to be sure because mine are way smaller in diameter than the rotor plate they abutt to -like I said, almost one full inch smallerf...
This is what it looks like with half-inch delta in diameter all around
_______________
l______________l Rotor Plate
l___________l Spacer
This is what it looks like with half-inch delta in diameter all around
_______________
l______________l Rotor Plate
l___________l Spacer
#14
RichK...I've bad news...the lettering on my box is exactly as you indicate with just two additions, one is the word 'Nissan' on the second line of the description and the other is a new line that reads 'Stock Number 07-D15' -all else is exactly the same.
Which now raises the question of did they put the wrong spacers in the box or did they change the specs of the spacer to reduce the outside diameter??
I need a favor fast from those of you who have any of these spacers, either 5mm, 15mm or 20mm...can you please go a) confirm that the spacer is the same OD as the rotor plate they abutt to and can you PLEASE measure the OD of the spacer itself?? Even a rough measurement will be fine...dont take the wheel off, just eyeball it. If you guys give me some OD data, I will call H&R here in the US and get them to see what's going on...
Thanks and regards
Galo
Which now raises the question of did they put the wrong spacers in the box or did they change the specs of the spacer to reduce the outside diameter??
I need a favor fast from those of you who have any of these spacers, either 5mm, 15mm or 20mm...can you please go a) confirm that the spacer is the same OD as the rotor plate they abutt to and can you PLEASE measure the OD of the spacer itself?? Even a rough measurement will be fine...dont take the wheel off, just eyeball it. If you guys give me some OD data, I will call H&R here in the US and get them to see what's going on...
Thanks and regards
Galo
#16
Thanks, Hamy!!
Yup, mine are the same diameter, I measured the circumference with a string and calculated the diameter with basic geometry and came up with 5.72, close enough for a match.
My problem is that my SSRs matched the rotor plate exactly, so now I have a mish-mash of diameters that looks like crap. Oh well.
I'll be going to the CNC shop next Tuesday as it's the earliest I can take three hours off to start this....no shop around here opens Staurday so I'm screwed for a few days. I'll be asking them to make me two perfect-fit (to the rotor plate) spacers with a 12mm width and will ask them to quote for several variants in 8mm and 4mm widths...we'll see how this turns out.
Yup, mine are the same diameter, I measured the circumference with a string and calculated the diameter with basic geometry and came up with 5.72, close enough for a match.
My problem is that my SSRs matched the rotor plate exactly, so now I have a mish-mash of diameters that looks like crap. Oh well.
I'll be going to the CNC shop next Tuesday as it's the earliest I can take three hours off to start this....no shop around here opens Staurday so I'm screwed for a few days. I'll be asking them to make me two perfect-fit (to the rotor plate) spacers with a 12mm width and will ask them to quote for several variants in 8mm and 4mm widths...we'll see how this turns out.
#17
Hamy,
How much did you pay to get your front wheel spacers installed.
I've gotten a quote as low as 80 dollars for the front two wheels. I wanted to do it myself but can't seem to find a socket big enough to get the hub off.
How much did you pay to get your front wheel spacers installed.
I've gotten a quote as low as 80 dollars for the front two wheels. I wanted to do it myself but can't seem to find a socket big enough to get the hub off.
#18
Originally Posted by chris'smax
Hamy,
How much did you pay to get your front wheel spacers installed.
I've gotten a quote as low as 80 dollars for the front two wheels. I wanted to do it myself but can't seem to find a socket big enough to get the hub off.
How much did you pay to get your front wheel spacers installed.
I've gotten a quote as low as 80 dollars for the front two wheels. I wanted to do it myself but can't seem to find a socket big enough to get the hub off.
Hamy,
That nut doesn't hold the rotor on. The rotor just sits there. You need to take a copper hammer (I think), but a regular hammer should work as long as your careful to break the rotor free. Just hit the rotor on the side, careful not to hit the rotor flush to damage it, and it should break free and come off. You can place something in between the hammer and the rotor just to be safe, Like a towel or something. Your gonna have to hit it hard to free it up. I have a 2001 and thats the way mine works. Make sure you hit it hard and good luck
-Dennis
#20
Without installing spacers on the front wheels. Would the 15mm or 20mm spacers make the rear wheels match up with the fronts? I think someone said that the 15s are perfect but from Richk's pics...the 20s look good too...anyone know which match up with fronts better?
#21
Update: I am definitely learning more about spacers than I wanted to.
I had a PM meeting cancel on short notice so I called my CNC shop and they could see me so I popped over, removed one of my rear wheels and the machinist and I had a grand ol' time farting around with this thing.
To make a long story short, now I know why H&R makes a 5mm spacer and 15, 20 and 25 mm spacers but nothing between 5 and 15mm -because you cannot make one that has enough material to have a outboard flange to provide hub centricity if you go less than 15mm thick as there's insufficient material to support the lip because the required depth of the 66.2mm hole in the center of the spacer needed to accomodate the hub.
The hub protrudes out about .480" and a 15 mm spacer is roughly .572" ; that's the minimum spacer width one can have because you need at last that much material -the difference between .572 and .480- to support the flange or 'lip' that's on the spacer's outboard side. Less than 15mm and you have no material....thre's no way to build a 66.2mm lip on top of a 66.2mm hole.
.......unless.........
.......you have hub-centric aftermarket wheels as I do. If you're using hub-centric wheels, the problem is solved IF YOU MACHINE THE ACTUAL HUB-CENTRIC RING AS PART OF THE SPACER ITSELF. In other words, machine the spacer so that the outboard 'lip' or flange is exactly the same diameter as the centric ring itself which is roughly 74mm. That larger 'lip' actually REPLACES the hub-centric ring; essentially, now the spacer & hub centric ring are one piece and the wheel smoothly fits into the spacer as if it were a spacer with the centric ring on it..
And by machining that new, larger lip into the outboard side of the spacer, you can create spacers of virtually any width between 5 and 25 mm -because you can carry the 66.2mm diameter hole that you need to accomodate the car's hub through the whole width of the spacer.
Elegant solution but with one downside: this will NOT accomodate OEM wheels, it will ONLY accomodate wheels that use a standard 66.2mm ID, 74mm OD centric ring, because you now have a fixed, 74mm lip on the spacer that will only fit into a wheel with a 74mm hole originally designed to accomodate the hub centric ring.
To me, no problem....to most of us that have aftermarket wheels, no problem, but if you have OEM wheels with the stock 66.2mm hole that slips over the 66.1mm hub, you're SOL.
Anyway, my tidy, 12mm, one-piece spacers/hub centric ring combination is all laid out on CAD...I should have a quote Friday & will post results for all that might want to jump in.
I had a PM meeting cancel on short notice so I called my CNC shop and they could see me so I popped over, removed one of my rear wheels and the machinist and I had a grand ol' time farting around with this thing.
To make a long story short, now I know why H&R makes a 5mm spacer and 15, 20 and 25 mm spacers but nothing between 5 and 15mm -because you cannot make one that has enough material to have a outboard flange to provide hub centricity if you go less than 15mm thick as there's insufficient material to support the lip because the required depth of the 66.2mm hole in the center of the spacer needed to accomodate the hub.
The hub protrudes out about .480" and a 15 mm spacer is roughly .572" ; that's the minimum spacer width one can have because you need at last that much material -the difference between .572 and .480- to support the flange or 'lip' that's on the spacer's outboard side. Less than 15mm and you have no material....thre's no way to build a 66.2mm lip on top of a 66.2mm hole.
.......unless.........
.......you have hub-centric aftermarket wheels as I do. If you're using hub-centric wheels, the problem is solved IF YOU MACHINE THE ACTUAL HUB-CENTRIC RING AS PART OF THE SPACER ITSELF. In other words, machine the spacer so that the outboard 'lip' or flange is exactly the same diameter as the centric ring itself which is roughly 74mm. That larger 'lip' actually REPLACES the hub-centric ring; essentially, now the spacer & hub centric ring are one piece and the wheel smoothly fits into the spacer as if it were a spacer with the centric ring on it..
And by machining that new, larger lip into the outboard side of the spacer, you can create spacers of virtually any width between 5 and 25 mm -because you can carry the 66.2mm diameter hole that you need to accomodate the car's hub through the whole width of the spacer.
Elegant solution but with one downside: this will NOT accomodate OEM wheels, it will ONLY accomodate wheels that use a standard 66.2mm ID, 74mm OD centric ring, because you now have a fixed, 74mm lip on the spacer that will only fit into a wheel with a 74mm hole originally designed to accomodate the hub centric ring.
To me, no problem....to most of us that have aftermarket wheels, no problem, but if you have OEM wheels with the stock 66.2mm hole that slips over the 66.1mm hub, you're SOL.
Anyway, my tidy, 12mm, one-piece spacers/hub centric ring combination is all laid out on CAD...I should have a quote Friday & will post results for all that might want to jump in.
#22
Woah thats a ton of info. It looks like you learned a lot through your research. How much is it going to cost you for the new spacers? Also...would you be willing to sell your 20mm? Ive been waiting for ever for the 15mm and I can't wait anymore. Also if you dont mind could you post the specs of your wheels. Size/Offset
#23
OK. Galo I had to check out my car again. You are correct in that the spacers are a smaller diameter than the rotor plate. However, the diameter of the spacer is the same as the hub on my 18" wheels. That is why I really didn't notice the diameter difference. My spacers also have no rpoblems with the hub-centric rings on my Modas. Sorry for the mistake. I do know for a fact that the spacers did not cause any wheel wobble at all.
#24
Richk...thanks for confirming the size, with both u and Hamy confirming there is a difference to the rotor plate & your label details I'm sure that H&R shipped me the right spacer, it just fits like that.
By the way, on the subject of centricity and the slight play I observed between my centric ring and the spacer, yesterday, when the CNC shop tech was miking/measuring every dimension you can think of in the H&R spacer, he measured the OD of the outboard flange/lip on the spacer and the ID of the centric ring and indeed, there was .008 difference in diameter. For perfect hub centricity and the 'tight slip fit' that should exist between the spacer and the centric ring, the diameter delta should be no more than .003 or .004...that's the diameter delta he's going to program in the CNC machine for my one-piece spacer/centric combo.
Hami, yes, I will be glad to sell u the 20mm H&Rs after I mount my 'specials'. I wont know the $$$$$ on my specials until late tomorrow.
By the way, on the subject of centricity and the slight play I observed between my centric ring and the spacer, yesterday, when the CNC shop tech was miking/measuring every dimension you can think of in the H&R spacer, he measured the OD of the outboard flange/lip on the spacer and the ID of the centric ring and indeed, there was .008 difference in diameter. For perfect hub centricity and the 'tight slip fit' that should exist between the spacer and the centric ring, the diameter delta should be no more than .003 or .004...that's the diameter delta he's going to program in the CNC machine for my one-piece spacer/centric combo.
Hami, yes, I will be glad to sell u the 20mm H&Rs after I mount my 'specials'. I wont know the $$$$$ on my specials until late tomorrow.
#25
Originally Posted by Shift_VQ
Without installing spacers on the front wheels. Would the 15mm or 20mm spacers make the rear wheels match up with the fronts? I think someone said that the 15s are perfect but from Richk's pics...the 20s look good too...anyone know which match up with fronts better?
I have the 20's on mine and now the back looks way bigger than the front. I would say get some 5's for the front as well.
#26
Originally Posted by iLLin-2k1
Hamy,
That nut doesn't hold the rotor on. The rotor just sits there. You need to take a copper hammer (I think), but a regular hammer should work as long as your careful to break the rotor free. Just hit the rotor on the side, careful not to hit the rotor flush to damage it, and it should break free and come off. You can place something in between the hammer and the rotor just to be safe, Like a towel or something. Your gonna have to hit it hard to free it up. I have a 2001 and thats the way mine works. Make sure you hit it hard and good luck
-Dennis
That nut doesn't hold the rotor on. The rotor just sits there. You need to take a copper hammer (I think), but a regular hammer should work as long as your careful to break the rotor free. Just hit the rotor on the side, careful not to hit the rotor flush to damage it, and it should break free and come off. You can place something in between the hammer and the rotor just to be safe, Like a towel or something. Your gonna have to hit it hard to free it up. I have a 2001 and thats the way mine works. Make sure you hit it hard and good luck
-Dennis
I'm still learning how to do all this stuff myself so bear with me. I know how to get the rotor off, butt from what I can see you take the rotor off and the hub(i guess thats what it's called is what needs to come off next. I think i need to get that peice off so i can replace the wheel studs with longer ones and the only way to get it off is to remove that bolt
#29
Hey, ICE, get off my computer-challenged case, will ya!!??
LOL!!!!!!!!!!
U dont need pics, you just need a vivid imagination!!
Try, just try to picture all my detailed, three-decimal place narratives....come on...you can do it!!
LOL!!!!!!!!!!
U dont need pics, you just need a vivid imagination!!
Try, just try to picture all my detailed, three-decimal place narratives....come on...you can do it!!
#30
1)Upload them to cardomain.com or similar
2)Copy and paste link to cardomain picture you've clicked on and are viewing inbetween [img]XXXXXXXXXXX[/img]
2)Copy and paste link to cardomain picture you've clicked on and are viewing inbetween [img]XXXXXXXXXXX[/img]
Originally Posted by chris'smax
yep i just don't know how to post the damn things
#31
Originally Posted by IceY2K1
1)Upload them to cardomain.com or similar
2)Copy and paste link to cardomain picture you've clicked on and are viewing inbetween [img]XXXXXXXXXXX[/img]
2)Copy and paste link to cardomain picture you've clicked on and are viewing inbetween [img]XXXXXXXXXXX[/img]
I know I've tried posting my pics on cardomain but for some reason they wont upload. I know i save them as a jpeg so they should work
#32
Try attaching them to your post.
Click "Manage Attachments" then "Browse" to your file. Make sure you click "Add This File" before you click "All done".
Click "Manage Attachments" then "Browse" to your file. Make sure you click "Add This File" before you click "All done".
Originally Posted by chris'smax
I know I've tried posting my pics on cardomain but for some reason they wont upload. I know i save them as a jpeg so they should work
#35
Originally Posted by chris'smax
I'm still learning how to do all this stuff myself so bear with me. I know how to get the rotor off, butt from what I can see you take the rotor off and the hub(i guess thats what it's called is what needs to come off next. I think i need to get that peice off so i can replace the wheel studs with longer ones and the only way to get it off is to remove that bolt
You are correct. The nut needs to be removed to take off the hub in order to install the new wheel studs. Nissan says that the nut is a "one time use" nut an should be replaced with a new one. I reused mine. Remember when replacing the nut to tap the sides in to lock it in place. Also, torque specs for the hub nut is 135#lbs. Hope this helps.
#36
Originally Posted by IceY2K1
Try attaching them to your post.
Click "Manage Attachments" then "Browse" to your file. Make sure you click "Add This File" before you click "All done".
Click "Manage Attachments" then "Browse" to your file. Make sure you click "Add This File" before you click "All done".
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