Jerry13

THE ses light has been on for about a month now, and I have NOT noticed any performance problems. I got the code pulled at the local AUTOZONE and the it came up as 1320 (an ignition/ emission control problem), however, the clerk at AUTOZONE did not know what it was for.

00MAXI

Change out your coils immediately


See the Ignition Coil Problems thread

Jerry13

i m reasonably handy, should i be able to replace them myself
?

[maxi-overdose]

iTrader: (3)

if you dont hear knocking or having performance problems, I would say your coil is ok. unplug your battery and reset your ECU to see if it comes back again.


just before you spent 300 dollars on the coil......let's check what FSM says about this code:

P1320 ignition signal.

OBD logic : malfuction is detected when the ignition signal ib te primarty circuit is not sent to ECM during engine cranking or running.

possible cause
1.harness or connectors to the coil
2.power transistor unit built into ignition coil ???
3.condeser
4.crankshaft position sensor
5.crankshaft position sensor circuit.

FameMax

Dont goto AutoZone anymore, just ask questions here

sloppymax

iTrader: (8)

the only reason people here go to autozone is to have the code pulled for free. if he did not do that then he would have to pay a garage or nissan to pull the codes or throw money at it by guessing whats wrong. most people experience severe hesitation and stumbling with bad coils so it would not have even pointed to the coils without pulling the codes. either idea of going to autozone for free or purchasing a odb2 reader are good ideas that around bound to save money in repairs/replacements or diagnostic fees.

Jerry13

how would i replace the following:
.harness or connectors to the coil
2.power transistor unit built into ignition coil ???
3.condeser
4.crankshaft position sensor
5.crankshaft position sensor circuit.

Cassandrab

I got the same answer at AutoZone today. Still after reading all of this, don't know what to do. I am a 50 year old female who needs answers to be in English not mechanic language. Can't replace car so I guess I'll keep looking for answers.

Bufflomike

If you need to replace coils, you will have to remove the intake manifold. You may as well replace the plugs as well. Cassandrab, if you are not mechanically inclined I would recommend finding a local .org member or garage to replace coils. First step is to clear the codes and see if it comes back. If it does then you need to do something.

Andy2000max

Well that depends on whether you have a VQ30 or VQ35. You don't have to remove the intake manifold on a VQ30 to change the rear coils or plugs.

But completely agree with clearing the codes and making sure it comes back first. A bad coil should be very noticable as the engine will idle rough and you'll notice a loss of power.

If the code comes back, I would try to get to each of the coil harnesses and wiggle them and make sure they are plugged in all the way. It would be a shame to spend $400 on coils (and a load on labor if you can't do it yourself) and it doesn't solve the problem.

If you want to read more, there is a ton of info on coils if you search the org.

khrept

I have a similar problem but have done the following:
I put in a new MAF, Starter, Ignition Coils, Spark Plugs, Cleaned the Throttle Body, cleaned the Neutral Shift, and added SeaFoam to the brake boost vacuum line: the car still has the 1320 code, plus runs rough in drive. I recently took it in and had the power steering hose replaced, main oil seal replaced, and gaskets replaced.

I noticed what looks like a large electrical t-joint under the air box that has two ends connected to each other and the other end is empty. Should there be connectors to that third end? It's just hanging under the air box.

Any help with the code and/or the large electrical t-joint would be greatly appreciated!

BronxSleeperMax187

I would wait and reset ecm if cars not running bad, wait till code comes up again and check for A second code indicating coil which is bad.

BronxSleeperMax187

Its time for A new mechanic....how much did all this cost and why did you change all that stuff?

khrept

The Nissan Dealer did the diagnostic on the power steering and leaking seals. The new power steering hose, main seal, gaskets, and oil pan came to 700.00. The rest of the items came from BAP, Autozone, and Ebay. The spark plugs were 30. The MAF was 125. The Starter was under warranty. The Ignition Coils (6) came to 130. All labor/cleaning (except hose, seal, gaskets, oil pan) was done by my husband. We're still stuck on why we're getting the 1320 code. In Park, it idles nicely. In drive, with brakes on, it is rough. Plus, there is still that electrical t-joint under the air box that looks like it's missing something on one end. We were thinking the next thing to check/replace would be the knock sensor, cam shaft sensor, crank shaft sensor.

We already cleaned the TB and used SeaFoam...but still have the 1320 code. We're pretty stuck...

BronxSleeperMax187

So six coils came out to $130 ....Did the dealer or ur husband replace em and how were all 6 so cheap.

BronxSleeperMax187

When did this rough idle start happening also?

khrept

The six came from ebay: Deluxe Item
My husband replaced them with the spark plugs. The Nissan has 248,000 miles on a rebuilt engine (3 years old).

BronxSleeperMax187

Theirs ur problem...ebay coils for 130 for all six...when did idle prob happen? and do you still have old coils

khrept

It started last winter. I thought it was the cold weather. When at a stop light, it was like we were in a low-rider bouncing back and forth. It's not as bad now, but it still has a rough idle. We've cleared the code several times and it keeps coming back...

khrept

We still have the old coils. The new coils are OEM with the silver dots...you think it could be them?

BronxSleeperMax187

go to search and type check coils...theirs A write up with pics how to check em one at A time

BronxSleeperMax187

Type bigfatty coils...it write up should be on top

khrept

He tested the coil harnesses. He was under the impression that the Nissan coils were notoriously bad also. I'll give him this link tomorrow so he can check the actual coils.

Would you know anything about the large electrical t-joint under the air box?

BronxSleeperMax187

I would put old ones back on and reset ecm...then wait for cel to come back on and check codes again, usally their would be another code indicating cylinder misfire and # plus 1320 code...then replace only coil from that cylinder....1,3,5 cylinder is in back of engine left to right and 2,4,6 is infront from left to right....it could be one only thats bad,so buy A new one at autozone for 80 bucks and keep reciept just incase.

khrept

That's the weird thing, the only code that comes up is 1320. There isn't any other number afterwards...We did a lot of work thus far because of the vagueness of the code.

BronxSleeperMax187

Year of car? and you should see A p0300 code for multiple misfires or p0301 for cylinder 1...... p0302 if its cyl 2..... p0303 for cyln 3 etc...till 6

BronxSleeperMax187

That will happen sometimes but usally it will show up soon

khrept

It's a 2000. Should I take it to a different Autozone?

khrept

On Monday, the CEL blinked 3 times before going back on to solid again. Does that mean anything?

khrept

It's frustrating because after fixing what we thought was the problem, we've had the same code 5-6 times. It's the same code each time...and only that code.

BronxSleeperMax187

Tell em to scroll down on scanner and see if theirs more than one code...don't matter which autozone it is..all same

khrept

doublea

iTrader: (7)

Coils are readily available for much cheaper, one search brought me this:
http://www.nextag.com/nissan-maxima-...l/compare-html

qwerty652

on that nextag link, which of those are the "Good" coils and which are the "bad" coils?

sontakke

Buy your own scanner! They are cheaper than a tank of gas. Why do people not understand this???

doublea

iTrader: (7)

On the TSB # NTSB01-079 from the local dealer, the reference number for the right side coil is: 22448-2Y000 or 22448-2Y001 for the left side the reference number is: 22448-2Y005 or 22448-2Y006

I don't know if that make a difference or not but I'm in Canada.

cabernet

000/005 are the 2000 part numbers and 001/006 are the 2001 numbers. The parts are interchangeable and are probably exactly the same part.

As for buying 3rd party coils, save your money. They will either be bad immediately or go bad soon. Save yourself the hassle and money and stick with OEM coils with the grey dot. $149 for 6 coils? Good luck with those. 3 month warranty. I bought 6 coils on ebay and all went bad within 2 years, one at a time.

doublea

iTrader: (7)

I bought the grey dot coils from Meximax, but people complains about how expensive are the coils so I did a search to help them. Now it's up to them to decide but remember, some people are in bad financial situation and need to find alternative.

The fifth item in the link I provided, are grey dot and sold for 67.77$ each (hitachi) which is better than the 107$ some dealer asked.

cabernet

$68 is a good price for OEM. Nice find. At that price it really doesn't pay to buy aftermarket coils.

doublea

iTrader: (7)

I order the grey dot, rear one for 32$ each. I will report it back when I have it in hand.