AT Fluid change/rear brake pad questions!!!
#1
AT Fluid change/rear brake pad questions!!!
Looked around the sticky threads and so on, didnt find what I was looking for.
I replaced my front brake pads and rotors, and now its time for the rear. I ordered the OEM pads online. MY question is, how different is the install from the front? I realise I have to haev te parking brake off. What about the piston? Do i need to turn it while compressing it? If so, how is this achieved? My compression tool is really basic, and does not have a provision for turning while compressing. Thanks.
Secondly, I have about 50k on the car, and am thinking about changing the ATF. I have done this on a Civic, and it was straightforward. Just drain, and refill through the dipstick hole. Is that proper for a Max? If anyone knows, how many quarts am I going to need? 4-5? I was thinking about going with Mobil 1 syn tranny fluid.....is that going to be ok? Or should I stick with OEM?
THanks for all the info guys!!
I replaced my front brake pads and rotors, and now its time for the rear. I ordered the OEM pads online. MY question is, how different is the install from the front? I realise I have to haev te parking brake off. What about the piston? Do i need to turn it while compressing it? If so, how is this achieved? My compression tool is really basic, and does not have a provision for turning while compressing. Thanks.
Secondly, I have about 50k on the car, and am thinking about changing the ATF. I have done this on a Civic, and it was straightforward. Just drain, and refill through the dipstick hole. Is that proper for a Max? If anyone knows, how many quarts am I going to need? 4-5? I was thinking about going with Mobil 1 syn tranny fluid.....is that going to be ok? Or should I stick with OEM?
THanks for all the info guys!!
#4
A drain and refill will get about 2/3-3/4 of the fluid. The dealer does a full flush, which changes all of it. I always just go with the drain and fill and don't have any problems. Mixing the synthetic with the stuff that is existing in there won't cause a problem either.
#5
You can do it yourself by draining the trans first. Then refill with same amout you drained.
Then disconnect the return from the trans cooler. Start engine and pump 2-4 qts into clean container. Stop engine and put that same amount in trans. Start engine and repeat until either fluid changes color or you hit the 10-11 qt mark.
I have done this 2 or 3 times now and is very effective and much cheaper than getting the dealer to flush.
Actually you won't even get 1/2 of the fluid with a flush and fill.
Then disconnect the return from the trans cooler. Start engine and pump 2-4 qts into clean container. Stop engine and put that same amount in trans. Start engine and repeat until either fluid changes color or you hit the 10-11 qt mark.
I have done this 2 or 3 times now and is very effective and much cheaper than getting the dealer to flush.
Actually you won't even get 1/2 of the fluid with a flush and fill.
#8
Originally Posted by Jime
You can do it yourself by draining the trans first. Then refill with same amout you drained.
Then disconnect the return from the trans cooler. Start engine and pump 2-4 qts into clean container. Stop engine and put that same amount in trans. Start engine and repeat until either fluid changes color or you hit the 10-11 qt mark.
I have done this 2 or 3 times now and is very effective and much cheaper than getting the dealer to flush.
Actually you won't even get 1/2 of the fluid with a flush and fill.
Then disconnect the return from the trans cooler. Start engine and pump 2-4 qts into clean container. Stop engine and put that same amount in trans. Start engine and repeat until either fluid changes color or you hit the 10-11 qt mark.
I have done this 2 or 3 times now and is very effective and much cheaper than getting the dealer to flush.
Actually you won't even get 1/2 of the fluid with a flush and fill.
#9
Originally Posted by Mike2000SE
awesome, thanks for all the info guys! What about the rear brakes?
Does the piston need to be turned while compressing? How is this accomplished?
Does the piston need to be turned while compressing? How is this accomplished?
#10
Originally Posted by Larrio
the rear will not need to be turned like the front to compress. Just pressed in with a c clamp
#11
Originally Posted by Mike2000SE
Wait....that doesn't make sense. I just replaced the front pads a few weeks ago, and I never turned the piston while compressing it, I just used a c clamp.
#12
Originally Posted by Mike2000SE
Bump for this answer!
#14
Originally Posted by 5thgen2nr
Don't forget to change the transmission filter and clean the magnets at the bottom of the inside of the transmission oil pan, too. I did this recently. Man it was a pain in the ***, took about 3 hours, but it was worth it to have a clean running AT again.
Thanks..
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sctludwig
3rd Generation Maxima (1989-1994)
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09-01-2022 01:32 PM