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AT Fluid change/rear brake pad questions!!!

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Old 02-16-2004, 10:39 AM
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AT Fluid change/rear brake pad questions!!!

Looked around the sticky threads and so on, didnt find what I was looking for.

I replaced my front brake pads and rotors, and now its time for the rear. I ordered the OEM pads online. MY question is, how different is the install from the front? I realise I have to haev te parking brake off. What about the piston? Do i need to turn it while compressing it? If so, how is this achieved? My compression tool is really basic, and does not have a provision for turning while compressing. Thanks.

Secondly, I have about 50k on the car, and am thinking about changing the ATF. I have done this on a Civic, and it was straightforward. Just drain, and refill through the dipstick hole. Is that proper for a Max? If anyone knows, how many quarts am I going to need? 4-5? I was thinking about going with Mobil 1 syn tranny fluid.....is that going to be ok? Or should I stick with OEM?

THanks for all the info guys!!
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Old 02-16-2004, 11:48 AM
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Take it to the dealer for like $130. You can't flush the whole thing you know!
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Old 02-16-2004, 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by 2k3TitaniumSe
Take it to the dealer for like $130. You can't flush the whole thing you know!
So a drain and refill effectively does no good?
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Old 02-16-2004, 02:12 PM
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A drain and refill will get about 2/3-3/4 of the fluid. The dealer does a full flush, which changes all of it. I always just go with the drain and fill and don't have any problems. Mixing the synthetic with the stuff that is existing in there won't cause a problem either.
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Old 02-16-2004, 02:25 PM
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You can do it yourself by draining the trans first. Then refill with same amout you drained.

Then disconnect the return from the trans cooler. Start engine and pump 2-4 qts into clean container. Stop engine and put that same amount in trans. Start engine and repeat until either fluid changes color or you hit the 10-11 qt mark.

I have done this 2 or 3 times now and is very effective and much cheaper than getting the dealer to flush.

Actually you won't even get 1/2 of the fluid with a flush and fill.
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Old 02-16-2004, 03:16 PM
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awesome, thanks for all the info guys! What about the rear brakes?

Does the piston need to be turned while compressing? How is this accomplished?
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Old 02-23-2004, 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike2000SE
What about the rear brakes?

Does the piston need to be turned while compressing? How is this accomplished?
Bump for this answer!
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Old 02-23-2004, 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Jime
You can do it yourself by draining the trans first. Then refill with same amout you drained.

Then disconnect the return from the trans cooler. Start engine and pump 2-4 qts into clean container. Stop engine and put that same amount in trans. Start engine and repeat until either fluid changes color or you hit the 10-11 qt mark.

I have done this 2 or 3 times now and is very effective and much cheaper than getting the dealer to flush.

Actually you won't even get 1/2 of the fluid with a flush and fill.
Don't forget to change the transmission filter and clean the magnets at the bottom of the inside of the transmission oil pan, too. I did this recently. Man it was a pain in the ***, took about 3 hours, but it was worth it to have a clean running AT again.
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Old 02-23-2004, 09:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike2000SE
awesome, thanks for all the info guys! What about the rear brakes?

Does the piston need to be turned while compressing? How is this accomplished?
the rear will not need to be turned like the front to compress. Just pressed in with a c clamp
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Old 02-24-2004, 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Larrio
the rear will not need to be turned like the front to compress. Just pressed in with a c clamp
Wait....that doesn't make sense. I just replaced the front pads a few weeks ago, and I never turned the piston while compressing it, I just used a c clamp.
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Old 02-24-2004, 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike2000SE
Wait....that doesn't make sense. I just replaced the front pads a few weeks ago, and I never turned the piston while compressing it, I just used a c clamp.
I think he was trying to say that the rears did not have to be turned just like the fronts did not have to be. Not sure if that's right though.
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Old 02-24-2004, 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike2000SE
Bump for this answer!
As far as I can tell, all rear disc that use a parking brake with the service brakes need to be turned clockwise to bottm out the piston. On the 02 Max, you can use a pair of needle nose pliers if you don't have the service tool. Autozone has a loan a tool program that allows you to use tools after leaving a deposit.
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Old 02-24-2004, 07:35 PM
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i forgot which one is which. but one, either front or back has to be turned to compress. For my fronts that what I had to do since the c clamp didn't work.
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Old 02-25-2004, 04:20 AM
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Originally Posted by 5thgen2nr
Don't forget to change the transmission filter and clean the magnets at the bottom of the inside of the transmission oil pan, too. I did this recently. Man it was a pain in the ***, took about 3 hours, but it was worth it to have a clean running AT again.
What do you use to clean the transmission pan?
Thanks..
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Old 02-25-2004, 05:43 AM
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did the brakes and rotors yesterday. Front compress, rear turn.
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