Often times when I accelerate hard, and at WOT I feel that the power seems to ebb and flow throughout the rev band. For example 1st and second gear, the car starts to pull but between 3000 and 5500 it seems like the tach moves but the car doesn't accelerate, it isn't fully smooth as I'd expect it. Is this normal or bad?

 

Try cleaning your throttle body and put a can of BG44K in the gas tank. BG44K works better if you do stop and go driving as opposed to a long trip. It allows the product to sit and dissolve the deposits for a longer period of time.

 

I really don't know how to clean throttle bodies. Is it at all easy to do? i'm not very familiar with under the hood. Will I see any difference if I just use BG44K and not clean the throttle bodies?

 

You may see increases from using just the BG44K. It is without a doubt the best fuel system cleaner in the world. It will cost you anywhere from $15-$22. It's available at almost all dealerships.

Cleaning the throttle body is extremely simple. You can buy a can of the cleaner for a few bucks at Pep Boys or any other auto parts store. I saw you bought an intake. I'm not sure if you have installed it or not. During the install would be an ideal time to perform the cleaning. Once you remove the midpipe/accordian looking tube from your intake manifold (throttle body), just spray some cleaner on a towel and wipe around the inside of the intake manifold. The throttle body opens, you can do this with just about anything that's sturdy. I use a flathead screwdriver. Push it open and wipe the top and bottom as far in as you can. You'll have to use a few towels probably.

 

What happens sometimes is that your throttle body gets gunked up with a sticky carbon residue that makes it harder for the throttle body to open and sometimes hesitates.

 

Thanks for the replies, Virus. I haven't done much in terms of under the hood maintainence so I'm looking forward to maintaining and making my car run better. Hopefully with a good throttle body cleaning, some fuel additive and a Berk intake (with Apexi i just switched over coming sometime within the week) my car will be running better than ever.

 

It's pretty easy. You can PM for directions. Your car will idle and run smoother.

 

If RPMs are rising faster than you believe the car to accelerate, couldn't it be a loss of traction, or (worse) a worn-out clutch?

Mine does this on occasion, usually instead of wheel hop... (i.e. in some situations I experience wheel hop in 1st gear, but if I do WOT and I don't experience wheel hop, usually I see RPMs rise rather quickly towards the top end without any noticeable extra jolt... my tire pressures are set to ~37psi warm in the front)

 

This is how you test if your clutch is slipping.

Go about 45mph on 5th gear. Floor your gas pedal. If RPM rises fast compared to your speed, your clutch is slipping.

 

When I first got my Maxima, spark plugs and oil changes were all I knew. Anything else scared to poo out of me. The guys here have provided excellent support with quick responses when intallation problems arise. We are here for you. Don't forget the KY or Vaseline when you install the midpipe!

 

i also love you guys.

 

wow, this has become a very touching thread...lol

 

Why does this always happen to my threads?! JK

I know it isn't traction loss and I'm pretty sure the clutch isn't slipping. There is no sound and it isn't very noticeable, just to me because I have keen senses when it comes to my car.

Thanks again, guys.

 

I hate to be pessimistic, but what your talking about sounds very much like one of the sensors/electronic parts going bad. More specifically MAF. That little black box can cause all kinds of problems that you would think are caused from something else.

TK

 

Is this something that needs to be duplicated at the dealership or can they just run a diagnostic?

 

this should help alot
http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/517

 

After cleaning my throttle body I had to have the idle re-set as well as the throttle position sensor. Idle set was done by the dealer. Apparently cleaning the TB can change things a bit, but definitely worth it.

 

Will I have to do it?

 

Its hard to tell if its going bad sometimes, it might be the slightest lack of power, and it could eventually be very noticeable. MAFs don't cost all that much, like 75-80 dollars, and it's one of the most handy extra parts to have laying around. If you know someone else with same year car, try swapping with theirs, and see if that solves anything.

TK