paralyse

There seem to be a lot of no start issues coming up lately on 5th genners cars so I thought I'd post a guide to help out anyone who is having starting issues.
Feel free to add on if i leave something out, i'm not an auto tech, just a shadetree.

Step 1. Turn the ignition key to ON. Does the dash light up?
No - Go to step 2
Yes - Go to step 4

Step 2. Check battery voltage, should be at least 12 volts, and the cables should be secured on the post...
No (low voltage) - Go to step 3
Yes - Go to step 4

Step 3. Check the in-line fusible link from the red (positive) batt terminal. Is it intact and not smelling or looking melted/burned up?
No - Repair fusible link and retest
Yes - Replace or charge battery and retest

Step 4. Turn the key to START. Does the engine crank over at all?
Nothing happens at all - Go to step 5
No, but i hear the starter spinning real fast - Needs starter or flywheel? Try banging on starter with a heavy metal rod-type object to see if pinion will unstick...
Yes, but slowly - Recharge or replace battery and retest.
Yes, it cranks over fine - Go to step 7

Step 5. When you turn the key, do you hear a clicking noise from under the hood from the area of the starter?
No - Go to step 6
Yes - Recharge or replace battery and retest.

Step 6. Things to check if you have reached this step are:
- Starter motor or cables from battery/alternator to starter bad
- Engine stuck. Ouch!
- Nissan Immobilizer System issue or your key is not programmed properly
- Neutral/clutch safety switches defective
- Car not in gear
- Ignition switch defective

Step 7. Great, my car cranks over fine. But it won't start. I've got plenty of gas in the tank and a charged battery. Now what?

Pull rear seat cushion, have someone turn key to ON and listen for the fuel pump to start making noise as the key is turned on. Does it make noise at all?
No - Go to step 8
Yes - Go to step 9

Step 8. Fuel pump module, fuel pump relay or fuel pump wiring harness are the source of your trouble, or an aftermarket alarm system is killing the fuel pump circuit. Go to step 9 to verify.

Step 9. Using a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail (pull engine cover if you have a 3.5) verify that when key is turned on pressure is a minimum of 20-50 PSI and holds steady.

The reading from the gauge is 0 - Go to step 10
The reading from the gauge is less than 20 or 30 PSI - Go to step 11
The reading from the gauge is normal - Go to step 12
The reading from the gauge is really, really high - Probably ruined all your injectors by now, check f/p regulator and pump, replace or clean spark plugs, retest after repairs.

Step 10. Your fuel pump is bad or you have a blocked/clogged line or fuel filter between the tank and the injectors.

Step 11. Your fuel pump is not building enough pressure to start or run the car. Usually the car will try to start but cough and die or not start at all, or it will run for a second and then die.

Step 12. You have good fuel pressure at the rail, and the battery is ok.
Pull a spark plug. Is it fouled with fuel (black and smells like gas)?

No - Go to step 13
Yes - Go to step 14

Step 13. Your injectors are not pulsing for some reason (clogged, wiring trouble)
Time to pull out a FSM and check voltage at the injectors. You DO have a service manual, right..?

Step 14. You are not getting any spark or your injectors are stuck wide open. Time to pull codes from the ECU (they should be there by this stage.)
Possible causes by now, there are about 30 or 40, here are some starting places. From here you leave the world of shadetree and enter the world of modern engine diagnosis...have a good trip

- Cam/crank sensor
- Coil(s) bad or wiring harness issues
- ECM or ECM harness issues
- Timing jumped (unlikely..)
- Injectors all stuck open, flooding the engine

Hope this can be helpful to some fellow .org members!