Anyone have a detailed (with pics) on the brake pad replacement? I've never done brakes before so this will be a first.

Help is appreciated, thanks.

 

i did a how to on rotor and brake pad replacement on how to section
its hard man

there are two bolts that hold the caliper on.. on on top and one of bottom

once u get the bolts out .. you can just pull the caliper out.. then change your pads..

 

Check the How To's. It's pretty easy. Except you need to rent a disc brake caliper tool for the rears. I got mine from Autozone.

 

I bought a caliper compression tool from Advanced Auto Parts for 10 bucks that goes on a 3/8" drive socket wrench.

Like stated above, only two bolts hold the calipers on 17mm or 18mm socket will remove those.

 

Igor, you dont know how to change brakes ?...

 

The bolts are 14mm on the f/r calipers, you will need a 4 " c-clamp to squeeze in the cylinder on the front brakes. If you have all the tools, it shouldn't take you more than 25-30 minutes do your front brakes. I will do my rear brakes in another week or so after I find this special tool you attach to a socket, all my local shops are sold out.

 

Here man....

http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...7&postcount=83

 

You don't need a caliper tool for the rear. Just take a pair of needle nose pliers and open them up a little to go into 2 of the 4 slots in the piston. Turn clockwise and the piston will go back into the caliper, Usually about 3 turns will be enough. It's SUPER easy to do, and don't worry, I won't bust on you like Kloogy. LOL here's what it should look like when done

 

Get the guys at Autoweek to help you.

 

gimme your jic's. i will fly there and change the pads for you

 

shouldn't u be resurfacing ur rotors prior to installing the new pads for even wear?

 

The stock rotors never need resurfacing since they prematurely wear out. You just replace them. Its a built in bonus supplied by Nissan

 

^^ if they haven't worn out tho, then it's best to resurface them right?

igor911 said only pads so i assume he's keeping his rotors

how do u go about resurfacing rotors anyway

 

Take them to any shop or part store that is "qualified" to turn rotors and to check run out and thickness to keep them in spec.

 

Thanks alot guys

Now what pads to get? I've had axxis MM on Stillen X-Drilled before and they sqeeled alot...

What will give me a good bite, long lasting and not too much dust?

 

I have IRotors with OEM pads and there is absolutely no noise.

 

ceramic pads. i have had them on for 8 months. barely any brake dust, and they do not squeal

 

I have SP performance rotors , X drilled and slotted with a high ceramic content pad. No dust no squeal period. Good braking, less fade than carbon fiber semi metallic pads. Someone posted some BS about ceramic pads causing a lot of heat and other crap, but the new vettes come with ceramic pads as well as a lot of other high dollar performance cars. I half to ask myself if that BS is true then why would they put them on high dollar sports cars. When you buy pads, just make sure they have a high ceramic content. There are "cheap" ceramic pads. You can see the rotors in the pic above.

 

 

 

12-01-2003, 12:33 AM #6 JodyBerry vbmenu_register("postmenu_2517247", true);
Maxima Enthusiast

Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Riverside, CA
Car: 2000 Icelandic Pearl SE

Posts: 68



[QUOTE=Mike2000SE]Cool! Thanks for all the info guys! QUOTE]


Mike,

I recently asked this same question about brakes. Here's the response I got from one member:
An org member posted this awhile back:

Rotor & Brade Pad Installation Notes
My notes from rotor and brake pad swap without disconnecting brake lines or bleeding brakes.

Brake Install Notes:

Tools/Equipment:

• Jack & Jack Stands
• Impact Wrench or Lug Nut Wrench
• 14mm, 17mm, 19mm sockets & ratchet
• C-Clamp
• Rear Piston Compression Tool
• Mechanics Grease or Anti-Seize Grease
• Brake Cleaner
• Rubber Mallet


Front:

1. Put the car up on jack stands and remove the front wheels.
2. Remove the bolts holding the upper piece of the caliper on...14mm...these came off without any effort...slide the caliper off and hang it on the coil of the spring.
3. Remove the brake pads...they pop right off...pay attention to the way they are seated.
4. Remove bolts holding the lower piece of the caliper on...19mm...these require some elbow grease to remove, but I did not need any liquid wrench or a breaker bar...slide the second caliper piece off and set aside.
5. Remove the rotor...requires some rocking and tapping to remove...my stock rotors did NOT have a bolt hole easy removal so I did some light tapping on the back side with a mallet as I turned the rotor.
6. Install new rotor...clean up the wheel hub first and rub some grease around the hub to prevent the new rotor from rusting onto the hub like the stock one.
7. Reinstall lower piece of caliper...clean it up first to remove all the brake dust...tighten up 19mm bolts good and tight.
8. Install new brake pads...ensure that you remove the backing plates off the old pads and install them to the new pads.
9. Compress the piston on the upper piece of the caliper...loosen cap on the brake fluid resevoir by the driver's side strut tower in the engine bay to make piston compression possible...use a clamp and equally distribute pressure as you compress...watch for brake fluid overflow.
10. Reinstall upper piece of the caliper...clean it up first to remove all the brake dust...tighten up the 14mm bolts marginally (remember how easy they were to remove).


You're all done. Differences for the rears:

• You must remove the 14mm bolt holding the mount for the emergency brake cable to get the upper part of the caliper off...underneath the caliper.
• Lower piece of caliper is held on by 17mm bolts instead of the 19mm on the front.
• Piston needs to be turned clockwise to be compressed...I suppose you could use pliers, but you can buy a small piston compression tool which hooks on to a ratchet and makes life really easy...the one they sell at Sears has a piston pattern which fits the rear calipers on the Maxima.
• Make sure you hook the emergency brake cable onto the spring mechanism before reinstalling the upper caliper piece as it will be hard to hook back on after the caliper is assembled.

 

Midas sucks *****, there pads squeal like a pig and the stopping distance is worse than stock..

complete rip off...

 

Well, he could purchase whichever pads he wishes and simply have Midas or a similar type of reputable shop install them for him

 

fyi, I don't use any special tools. A channel-lock plier to compress the piston for the fronts, and needle nose pliers (CAREFUL with these...) to turn the piston on the rears. I've had my brakes apart so many damn times it's not even funny. Including installing the BlehmCo kit, indexing the rotors using a dial runout gauge (mainly to verify runout, which I think I have a slight problem on the front right, that may or may not be wheel bearing-related...), etc