From a Pacesetter STS back to stock...
#1
From a Pacesetter STS back to stock...
Has anyone done it?
I've had the Pacesetter STS and it has deteriorated over the past couple of years. Not only is it grinding against the heat shield again but 95% of the time it's real notchy and takes way too much effort to shift. I'm tired of it and want to go back to stock. I'm looking to see whets involved in this since I plan to do it myself. I'm particularly curious as to how the leather **** is attached to the shifter.
I've had the Pacesetter STS and it has deteriorated over the past couple of years. Not only is it grinding against the heat shield again but 95% of the time it's real notchy and takes way too much effort to shift. I'm tired of it and want to go back to stock. I'm looking to see whets involved in this since I plan to do it myself. I'm particularly curious as to how the leather **** is attached to the shifter.
#2
i'm a little confused. Wouldn't you just take out the pacesetter and put in the stock one just like how you took out the stock one to put the pacesetter in?
the leather **** screws off counterclockwise
put the car in 4th gear, pull off the shifter panel (one screw in the ashtray)
then you jack up the car, unbolt the cat and take it off
and then just look around underneath for the various bolts that you'll need to undo
http://vbxmaxima.8m.com/shifter.html
the leather **** screws off counterclockwise
put the car in 4th gear, pull off the shifter panel (one screw in the ashtray)
then you jack up the car, unbolt the cat and take it off
and then just look around underneath for the various bolts that you'll need to undo
http://vbxmaxima.8m.com/shifter.html
#3
Toss the PS and get the Stillen(or B&M)....trust me.
You don't need to remove the cat, just the heat-shield, however it might be easier in the long run ESPECIALLY if you don't have a few extensions and a swivel. It is a PITA without a friend guiding from the top, while you hold the shift linkage from below the car as you try to get the bottom T-part of the shifter through the small azz shift linkage hole.
You don't need to remove the cat, just the heat-shield, however it might be easier in the long run ESPECIALLY if you don't have a few extensions and a swivel. It is a PITA without a friend guiding from the top, while you hold the shift linkage from below the car as you try to get the bottom T-part of the shifter through the small azz shift linkage hole.
#4
I have a Pacesetter and it's been a bit grindy and notchy too. But I figured it's because the silicone grease might have been dried up.
BTW, I just removed the heat shield.
Hey, Icy, which short shifter do you have and why is it better? I may consider upgrading mine too.
BTW, I just removed the heat shield.
Hey, Icy, which short shifter do you have and why is it better? I may consider upgrading mine too.
#5
what Ice said. also, you may have to break loose the cat (which is what I did, I think according to the B&M instructions) to gain more access. obviously, I have the B&M and so far I like it. I dont see why the heat shield would be hitting the shifter itself unless it is loose or something else is loose or not secured like it should be...
#6
Komax - I have the Stillen. Rifle-bolt action shifts from the aluminum Stillen shift ball is worth every penny over the neoprene ball on the SMC/PS, which feels rubbery/mushy. The Stillen also makes downshifting possible withOUT a double-clutch more often then the SMC I had.
5spd - What can happen, at least on my SMC, is that the adjustable shift ball set screw lets go and the force of your hand over time causes the ball to move UP until the bottom of the shifter bottoms out on the heat shield or in my case, hits the front of the console in 1st/3rd/5th causing you to miss gears right and left.
If I would have known more about the B&M, I'd probably have gone that route, since I'm not a Stillen fan.
5spd - What can happen, at least on my SMC, is that the adjustable shift ball set screw lets go and the force of your hand over time causes the ball to move UP until the bottom of the shifter bottoms out on the heat shield or in my case, hits the front of the console in 1st/3rd/5th causing you to miss gears right and left.
If I would have known more about the B&M, I'd probably have gone that route, since I'm not a Stillen fan.
#7
Larrio,
I could have sworn people were saying the leather **** was "glued" on. They even described using a heat gun and a wrench with a towel to pry it off. Thanks for the link though.
I may go B&M if it doesn't cost as much as a brand new stock assembly. Time to call Dave...
Thanks guys.
I could have sworn people were saying the leather **** was "glued" on. They even described using a heat gun and a wrench with a towel to pry it off. Thanks for the link though.
I may go B&M if it doesn't cost as much as a brand new stock assembly. Time to call Dave...
Thanks guys.
#9
Originally Posted by NuJerseyDrive
Larrio,
I could have sworn people were saying the leather **** was "glued" on. They even described using a heat gun and a wrench with a towel to pry it off. Thanks for the link though.
I may go B&M if it doesn't cost as much as a brand new stock assembly. Time to call Dave...
Thanks guys.
I could have sworn people were saying the leather **** was "glued" on. They even described using a heat gun and a wrench with a towel to pry it off. Thanks for the link though.
I may go B&M if it doesn't cost as much as a brand new stock assembly. Time to call Dave...
Thanks guys.
#10
No, they are different in design, but I believe the B&M also uses metal for the shift ball for a rifle bolt action, ie snick-snick into gear vs. bounce-force-bounce-clunk into gear.
Originally Posted by Komax
So Stillen and B&M are very similar to each other? Because B&M is $149 and Stillen costs $240 or something. That "rifle-bolt" action sounds exactly like what I wanted because Pacesetter does feel rubbery.
#11
Originally Posted by Larrio
i can sell you my stock one, however I want you to know that its made completely out of plastic
#15
Hey Icey, are you sure the B&M is as good as Stillens? There's a $100.00 difference! I know Stillen is overpriced but 100 bucks? I just want the best possible product because I really don't want to go through this again.
SWA is selling the B&M for 149.99 - http://store.dragracing.com/product....=2061&catid=15
Larrio, I'll keep ya posted as to what I plan on doing.
SWA is selling the B&M for 149.99 - http://store.dragracing.com/product....=2061&catid=15
Larrio, I'll keep ya posted as to what I plan on doing.
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