It looks like using a full synthetic oil doesn't increase the price of changing my oil that dramatically, so, Maxima gurus of wonderous lore, which to use, I humbly beseech? Furthermore, is it worth the small difference in price or are we being bamboozled by the auto parts industry? All input and experiences are welcomed / appreciated. Thanks!

 

I think Mobil-1 is one of the only true synthetics....I will be switching to that when I go past 10k miles.....

 

Is a complete flush recommended before switching to synthetic? I just hit 10K and did an oil change, using the last of my "regular" Mobil oil. Next time, I'm taking the plunge (well, the car is).

 

you use Mobile 1's filter to go along with it.... it's expensive...(10 bucks a pop) but I think it's worth the investment..... I just recently did the whole set up.... didn't really noticed the difference... but that's because I live in CA, there is really no weather changes here...

 

I don't think that it would be necessary......anyone else do a flush?

 

What is "Synthetic" Motor Oil? texasoil
(53/M/Houston) 9/15/00 7:48 pm
Here is the REAL technical information.

Mobil 1 is formulated with what are called Poly-alpha-olefins (PAO's). These molecules look like a zipper or the wire in a chain link fence, with a single unsaturated bond on the end (the 'alpha-olefin). These molecules are pretty good for use in lube oils because they hold their viscosity better with temperatures than 'conventional' lube oil molecules. They are not perfect however. they are not very good solvents for the additives and combustion byproducts in an engine, so the detergent and dispersant additives have to be 'better' than in 'conventional' lube oils. Also, some co-solvent conventional base oil has to be included to keep the additives in solution.

A refining process developed a few years ago and first used by Shell Oil 'isomerizes' paraffin wax so that the isomerized molecules look and behave almost exactly like the PAO molecules- but without the terminal double bond.

These are very different approaches to making essentially the same 'synthetic' molecules. PAO's are made by connecting a whole bunch of ethylene molecules (the poly), while isomerization starts with natural molecule and rearranges it.

Now interestingly, petroleum waxes are often 'cracked' or split up into the samll ethylene molecules that are then polymerized back togetherinto PAO's.!!. Now which way do you think is more costly? Tearing up molecules and then glueing them back together, or rearranging ones nature has already made?

By the way, if petroleum wax, which is mostly straight chain or 'normal' paraffins did not freeze solid at such high temperatures (130F or so) it makes an outstanding lubricant base oil. 'Isomerizing' rearranges some of the 'normal' portion of the wax molecule into 'iso' paraffins-basically adding a few bends and pieces or wire to the main piece.

The Courts found that since neither of these molecules were 'natural' and both are 'synthetic', actually do look almost identical, and behave essentially the same in lube oil, that Castrol (and others) could call oils blended with either as "Synthetic."

This is a real victory for we consumer because it means that lower cost 'synthetics' are finally going to happen. These are better base oils for engines, but do cost more to make than 'conventional' ones.

 

Exactly! Why didn't I think of that earlier!

 

how many miles to next oil change with synthetic? is it the standard 2-3K?

 

I have read in a couple of places, when running moddified engines, it is best to use regular oil, 10W-30 ect.. I could be wrong, that's what they suggested. I can't remember why though.

 

see, i figure if Porsche, Audi, Mercedes, and BMW all use Mobil 1, it's quite pretty good for the car.