looking for some opinions
#1
looking for some opinions
i recentlly bought my first nissan(coming out of a turbo integra sedan), its a 02 pearl white six speed, bought it w/28 k on it. I really like the car, for the most part(as long as its not raining or snowing, its sucks for traction)i have already ditched the factory radio in favor of an alpine cd, alpine xm, alpine mp3 changer, alpine digital eq(stealthy mounted in the eyglass holder) alpine type r components front and rear, jl w6's (3) audiobahn amps(for now) sound is AWSOME. I need a little more hp, i dont want juice, or boost, im only looking for 275, 300 hp at the wheels. MOST important for now is traction. Does anyone have a suggestion for winter rubber for these things, i am actually scared of this thing some times in the rain. I have read thru some posts on the site and have seen that my car may also have other issues with the steering, also saw there is an actuall problem with the bucking and rpm jumps, so my other question is does any one know of a nissan dealer in north west jersey or western pa that knows about these "quirks" with the max, because my dealer told me that i was crazy and the never heard of maximas having steering or shifting problems.
#2
I have a 2k2 and have not experienced any steering problems. The only shifting problem I've had was a notchy shift into 3rd gear. That has gone away. I switched to Redline MT-90 fluid. Not sure what you mean by RPM jumps...
Overall, I've been very pleased with the performance and quality of my 2K2.
Yeah, the stock Potenzas are crap. At 28K they will be terribly unsafe on wet or snow. Check the Wheel and Tire forum for info.
Overall, I've been very pleased with the performance and quality of my 2K2.
Yeah, the stock Potenzas are crap. At 28K they will be terribly unsafe on wet or snow. Check the Wheel and Tire forum for info.
#3
I have an auto, but those horrible OE Potenzas, with any kind of wet or snow are still a bad combo. I bought some Winterforce SL's last year with some nice steelies (so as not to scratch my titanium wheels) and figured the $320 I spent was cheaper than the $500 I would of most-assuredly spent on my deductible after an accident. They make a world of difference, and help make up for the TC this car does not have. I see TireRack has them $64 a piece. I would highly recommend some winter wheels of some sort, it'll help ya make it thru the winter.
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....omCompare1=yes
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....omCompare1=yes
#4
I have the Falken ZEIX 512s in 235/45/17 on my stock rims and they handle awesome in the rain... just waiting for some snow to test em out on.... get rid of the stock Potenzas asap, those are just an accident waiting to happen. If ya go to www.edgeracing.com they're around $90 each I think...
As for getting 275-300 whp w/o FI or nitrous... I'm not sure how feasible that is, or if it is even possible short of spending a fortune on internals.... I'm thinking 250 whp is more realistic... but I'll let others more knowledgeable say more on that...
My uneducated guess is that intake/headers/UDP will get ya to about 240 whp... ... anyone care to correct me here?
As for getting 275-300 whp w/o FI or nitrous... I'm not sure how feasible that is, or if it is even possible short of spending a fortune on internals.... I'm thinking 250 whp is more realistic... but I'll let others more knowledgeable say more on that...
My uneducated guess is that intake/headers/UDP will get ya to about 240 whp... ... anyone care to correct me here?
#5
Originally Posted by Puppetmaster
My uneducated guess is that intake/headers/UDP will get ya to about 240 whp... ... anyone care to correct me here?
About 5 each for the intake and UDP and 15 for the headers. IIRC most 3.5's dyno about 208-211 stock.
#6
Originally Posted by Puppetmaster
I have the Falken ZEIX 512s in 235/45/17 on my stock rims and they handle awesome in the rain... just waiting for some snow to test em out on.... get rid of the stock Potenzas asap, those are just an accident waiting to happen. If ya go to www.edgeracing.com they're around $90 each I think...
Falken 512s work in the snow
#7
Originally Posted by Bluesbrekr
With those 3 I'd say 240 would be close. Maybe a bit less.
About 5 each for the intake and UDP and 15 for the headers. IIRC most 3.5's dyno about 208-211 stock.
About 5 each for the intake and UDP and 15 for the headers. IIRC most 3.5's dyno about 208-211 stock.
237.5 HP - SAE Corrected
And some of his mods include:
Hotshot Headers, Greddy Evo Catback, Advanced Timing, Definitive Motorsports UDP, 2nd Gen Maximum Tuning VB, 9 inch K&N cone filter with stock accordian piece
I think from what I recall from Fezzik's dynos it was around 235 whp as well... and I believe he had an Injen intake and Cattman headers...
#8
the potenzas are gone and i still have tons of traction problems
the car came with some other tire(i forgot what brand, and its to cold to go out and look)they where brand new when i got the car, sucked then and suck now. i am going to take the advice to get winter rims and tires, many of you suggested that, so i belive they will help, and im thinkin falkens for the better months, until i get my new wheels and tires, my next project is struts. My front ones are beet, at least the passenger one is, i was thinking koni's . i have tokicos on my integra, and my girls rsx-s, but i think there crap, are konis and eibock a nice ride for the max, i dont want low, just lower, any suggestions?
#9
Falkens are good tires....
For struts/springs information... look here:
http://www.innerbean.com/housecor/sp..._decision.html
I've heard that Konis are a pain to install and Eibachs are hard springs... most guys here run Tokico Illuminas, HPs, and KYB GR-2s, AGXs, then there's coilovers, which I won't get into since I don't have experience with em...
I have Tokico HP struts & Progress springs and I think the struts are fine... it really all depends on your ride quality preference... I think its not a harsh set-up at all, and surprisingly, neither does my wife (she has a 2000 VW Passat)... it does get a little bouncy over mid to large bumps, and the car does feel a little more sensitive to small bumps, but overall its tolerable to me. On a scale of 1 to 10, with stock ride quality being 10, I'd rate my ride quality a good solid 7.5 (if I've used this illustration elsewhere and had a different number, this is what I think now...haha..). Hope that helps...
For struts/springs information... look here:
http://www.innerbean.com/housecor/sp..._decision.html
I've heard that Konis are a pain to install and Eibachs are hard springs... most guys here run Tokico Illuminas, HPs, and KYB GR-2s, AGXs, then there's coilovers, which I won't get into since I don't have experience with em...
I have Tokico HP struts & Progress springs and I think the struts are fine... it really all depends on your ride quality preference... I think its not a harsh set-up at all, and surprisingly, neither does my wife (she has a 2000 VW Passat)... it does get a little bouncy over mid to large bumps, and the car does feel a little more sensitive to small bumps, but overall its tolerable to me. On a scale of 1 to 10, with stock ride quality being 10, I'd rate my ride quality a good solid 7.5 (if I've used this illustration elsewhere and had a different number, this is what I think now...haha..). Hope that helps...
#11
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Posts: n/a
I recomend Toyo Proxes 4. they are a good tire. I have them on my stock 17 inc rims and love them. For springs, I suggest some H&R springs. good quality and excellent ride even though I am on stock struts.
So how does the max compare to the integra? those cars are a pian to sell right now though. how did you sell yours? I am having trouble with selling a 98 Integra Coupe Auto.
So how does the max compare to the integra? those cars are a pian to sell right now though. how did you sell yours? I am having trouble with selling a 98 Integra Coupe Auto.
#12
For traction in snow, all the basic things work:
Snow Tire properly inflated (or deflated) for maximum traction, driving at a manageable speed, and common sense.
Even if you're driving top-of-the line, sport-tuned, turbo-charged, formula1 car, driving like you're in a circuit on a snow is "stupid" in any angle.
Snow Tire properly inflated (or deflated) for maximum traction, driving at a manageable speed, and common sense.
Even if you're driving top-of-the line, sport-tuned, turbo-charged, formula1 car, driving like you're in a circuit on a snow is "stupid" in any angle.
#13
Originally Posted by Puppetmaster
Yeah, I just saw the dyno numbers on 03BlkSETE's signature:
237.5 HP - SAE Corrected
And some of his mods include:
Hotshot Headers, Greddy Evo Catback, Advanced Timing, Definitive Motorsports UDP, 2nd Gen Maximum Tuning VB, 9 inch K&N cone filter with stock accordian piece
.
237.5 HP - SAE Corrected
And some of his mods include:
Hotshot Headers, Greddy Evo Catback, Advanced Timing, Definitive Motorsports UDP, 2nd Gen Maximum Tuning VB, 9 inch K&N cone filter with stock accordian piece
.
#14
The bucking and RPM jumps you mention is because of the Drive by wire system. The sensor are very sensitive and there is a throttle mis-reading in 1st, 2nd, and sometimes 3rd that causes the car to litterally jump around until you let off the gas, gun it, or put in the clutch. There is actually a TSB for this and a remap of your ECU is needed. I have the same issue.....
.... but with 224 WHP (intake only) there is no way I am going to take it to Nissan and lose the ponies from their remap. I will keep with the jumpy car since I know how it is caused.
The whole fuel system is controlled by the computer and sensors. Basically it can be a little wacky. Get the remap if it is such a bad issue for you.
As for rubber.... The potenzas were "ok" in the snow if you know how to drive in the snow. To be honest they were plain scary, I have just been driving in snow all my life and know how to get around bad tires. Unless you want a whole different set of rims (overkill) just get some new tires. Toyo Proxes 4 is what I have and I love them, then again, I would love mickey thompson slicks after driving on the RE-92s for so long. The falken and Toyos are great cost effective options. If you want to spend more, then Mich. Pilot Sport A/S is the way to go.
Good luck and keep reading the site, you will find your answers.
.... but with 224 WHP (intake only) there is no way I am going to take it to Nissan and lose the ponies from their remap. I will keep with the jumpy car since I know how it is caused.
The whole fuel system is controlled by the computer and sensors. Basically it can be a little wacky. Get the remap if it is such a bad issue for you.
As for rubber.... The potenzas were "ok" in the snow if you know how to drive in the snow. To be honest they were plain scary, I have just been driving in snow all my life and know how to get around bad tires. Unless you want a whole different set of rims (overkill) just get some new tires. Toyo Proxes 4 is what I have and I love them, then again, I would love mickey thompson slicks after driving on the RE-92s for so long. The falken and Toyos are great cost effective options. If you want to spend more, then Mich. Pilot Sport A/S is the way to go.
Good luck and keep reading the site, you will find your answers.
#16
Originally Posted by 03BlkSETE
My car is also an auto. A six speed should break into the 240's. Also their is some room for additional HP with some A/F tuning.
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