Replaced MAF Car runs like new again!
#1
Replaced MAF Car runs like new again!
I just replaced the MAF sensor and air filter today in my 2000 SE. Before there was a hesitation in the acceleration when I hit 3500 RPM. After doing some research on the ORG I figured out I had a bad maf. Went to the dealer got one for 90 bucks took 15 minutes to replace. Now the car runs like a dream and throws you back in your seat all the way to redline. Thanks for the help from everyone. Happy New Year to all.
#5
i think i need a new maf too....many of the same symptoms and i did everything from changing plugs, pcv valve and filter. But i have had no check eng light on at all. but i have had hesitation around 3500 as well....a lot of people have suggested a new maf so i'll probably try it. For 90 bucks what the hell? Right?
#6
Glad the MAF fixed your problems, take it EZ.
3.0Ls suffer from drivability problems related to faulty MAF sensors that tend to register wrong readings. They will not set a check engine light unless the MAF gets completely destroyed- then you get a MAF circuit code. If by any chance anyone has a problem with the car just not starting or what not after their MAF goes, just unplug it. This puts the ECU into LIMP HOME mode, it wont let you go past 15% throttle and no more than 2400RPM- it hit a soft rev limiter. One time I installed some go fast goodies on my Max and decided to come out of the shop and see what the Max can do now, I nail the gas at around 5500RPM the MAF just dies, the car felt like I shut it off with the ingition switch, I coasted over to the parking lot right by. Got out the scanner and found NO codes stored, yet the engine wouldn't start. I unplugged the MAF and engine started up, I got back into the shop- which was like 1/4 mile away. Took a loaner car- 3.5RL up by my house- 30 mile drive to get a new MAF, came back, reinstalled a new one in 1 minute, and I was on my happy way home.
3.5L MAFs, I have no experience with 3.5Ls- these came out after I left Nissan. I can sing you DE-K drivability problems, 3.5Ls aren't my thing- nor I even wanna know em.
3.0Ls suffer from drivability problems related to faulty MAF sensors that tend to register wrong readings. They will not set a check engine light unless the MAF gets completely destroyed- then you get a MAF circuit code. If by any chance anyone has a problem with the car just not starting or what not after their MAF goes, just unplug it. This puts the ECU into LIMP HOME mode, it wont let you go past 15% throttle and no more than 2400RPM- it hit a soft rev limiter. One time I installed some go fast goodies on my Max and decided to come out of the shop and see what the Max can do now, I nail the gas at around 5500RPM the MAF just dies, the car felt like I shut it off with the ingition switch, I coasted over to the parking lot right by. Got out the scanner and found NO codes stored, yet the engine wouldn't start. I unplugged the MAF and engine started up, I got back into the shop- which was like 1/4 mile away. Took a loaner car- 3.5RL up by my house- 30 mile drive to get a new MAF, came back, reinstalled a new one in 1 minute, and I was on my happy way home.
3.5L MAFs, I have no experience with 3.5Ls- these came out after I left Nissan. I can sing you DE-K drivability problems, 3.5Ls aren't my thing- nor I even wanna know em.
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