HNDA ETR

iTrader: (10)

LOL... I'm ASSuming you're being sarcastic... (see my last post above)

HNDA ETR

iTrader: (10)

We're dyno tuning it at a shop that Tim works with, down in Santee...

FriscoMaxima

iTrader: (1)

I just read a thread in the turbo/supercharged froum, and the guys there say that oil drain lines have to come out pretty much from underneath the turbo housing because oil tends to flow down (DUH!). I do not see how and where to you guys are planning to drain the oil from the turbo housing. please clarify...

IceY2K1

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Scavenge pump....reread this thread.

Bags

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+123879012348973428907238979


You need to read all the info in a thread. There are 5+ pgs of questions and info.

On the emissions note.. I bet you'll do fine if you drive the car for 30 minutes before hand.. hit 6000 rpm a few times @ WOT and the cat will be warm

From the pic, it looks like the wastegate dump pipe is fedding back into the exhaust.. is that correct?

IceY2K1

iTrader: (3)

What picture shows that Kirk?

BlackBIRDVQ

iTrader: (15)

I ran my Turbo SE-R through emissions 2 times, and I haven't had a EGR valve on it even, they did the tail pipe sniffer test. I had a Catco 3" cat that I only kept for emissions reasons, drove the car hard on the expressway for few miles, then hard to the emissions station, cat got really hot and the car passed emissions by a wide margin. This was with 740cc injectors and JWT S3 cams that are not that emissions friendly. We have a IM240 test here where they simulate driving- its on a dyno, they just drive it on the dyno like in real life. Car never really went into boost and I passed.
On 96 and up cars they do a OBDII test, to veriffy if all the readiness tests have passed, and no DTCs exist. I blew through the test with headers and no cats on my Maxima without a problem- thanx to O2 simulators doing their job. They don't check for tail pipe emissions, cause they trust the ECU to do its job and detect bad or missing cats etc. Owning a modified car in IL hasn't gotten any eassier

HNDA ETR

iTrader: (10)

I don't think the pics show the wastegate dump, but I would like to have the wastegate dump back into the exhaust...

I think Tim said it was doable... At first, he didn't think it was going to be doable because of how it would have needed to be routed, but I think he said it can be done now...

michaelnyden

iTrader: (15)

well I just smogged in socal with y pipe, high flow cat, and catback with an intake and all new filters/sensors/plugs/oil (new air/oil/fuel/pcv filters/valves, new O2's, new knock sensor, and new plugs, cleanout out my EVAP system)....and just barely passed on the HC test (I hit the maximum allowable on the 15mph test--"85"--the other tests were really low though by comparison)...and that's with driving around "spirited" for 30 min before hand (not turning off the car when I go there, and driving it right on...while the guy is revving it cause I asked him too) and having a professional BG fuel injection/EGR cleaning done a few days before hand....if that tells you how stricht california is on smog now....they even made me put my stock airbox back on despite the fact that I only had the stock resonator box coupled to a popcharger basically....and that was one of the chillest places I found!!!....the rest were looking at my y pipe and cat and tellin me it's not CARB OE....blah blah blah...

Bags

iTrader: (3)

You and Alex are correct... I mistook another pipe in this pic below.





If you look at the 1st S in the water mark of SSR you'll see the dump pipe.. I don't see it being that hard to route it directly in front of the o2 sensor.. however, I can't tell if there is 1 inch or 3 inches of clearance under the tranny/engine housing.

Bags

iTrader: (3)

None.... I thought the pipe feeding the wastegate was going back into the exhaust. I was not paying attention.

I'll go back to not talking..lol

BlackBIRDVQ

iTrader: (15)

Why would ya wanna route the dump tube back into the exhaust ? Only reason I can come up with is noise. I have seen dyno results that show 20-30HP gain with the dump pipe left OUT of the exhaust system on cars which make over 400HP, like H22 Fmax turbo 'Ludes and SR20s.

HNDA ETR

iTrader: (10)

Sound. Didn't want to draw too much attention from the LA PoPo... but 20-30 hp loss huh....? might have to re-think it....

Trance Artur

iTrader: (2)

I had my emissions done a few days ago here in CT and all they did was hook through the OBD-II and that's it. Computer did it's thing and I was gone. I believe all they did was check that all my sensor's (like O2 sensor's) are working. How do they do emissions in CA?

Bags

iTrader: (3)

hmm.. why is that?

I think it would help pas emissions and noise.. and if there is a visual inspection, that would sure be a NO NO

BlackBIRDVQ

iTrader: (15)

I forgot this is Cali we are talking bout, here in IL we have OBDII testing only on cars like our 5th gens

pimpjuice

Roy,

You can run more than that. I was running 12 psi on stock injectors (higher fuel pressure though). With your bigger injectors and e-manage you should be able to run higher boost than 6.5 psi.

Let me know how things go. I sold my turbo kit, but am making a new one so you won't be alone (trying to tune the beast).

Let me know what your fuel setup is going to look like. On my new kit I will be running a return fuel line (modified fuel rails and FPR), which is what I think SSR did for the Altima.
(Yes Icey, I am finally taking your advice!)

IceY2K1

iTrader: (3)

Because it sounds like ****, if you don't. Almost like a big long fart....

IceY2K1

iTrader: (3)

Did you dyno at 12psi? If so, what numbers did you put down or better do you have the run files?

HNDA ETR

iTrader: (10)

I'm not sure about the higher boost being doable on the VQ35 - In researching boosting this engine, it looks like people don't start having trouble until they hit the 7-8+lbs of boost (via turbo). Remember, the VQ35 is notorious for tossing rods when the power is cranked up....

When I was at Technosquare, Tadashi showed me a VQ35 block that grenaded because the owner turned the boost up to 8 lbs...

I know that a SC and a TC produce different 'kinds' of boost - and an engine that can take 12lbs of boost via a SC may not be able to take 12lbs of boost via a TC...

IceY2K1

iTrader: (3)

Yes, Tadashi was showing you a motor that was probably Twin Turbo'd.

You guys run a single non-BB bigger turbo that doesn't produce that kind of torque at lower RPM, so you can get away with A BIT more...not sure about 12psi, but if pimpjuice has the dynos to back it up?

pimpjuice

Roy,

I am referring to my TURBOcharged VQ35. I have continually ran 10 psi and have recently turned it up to 12 psi.

All I'm saying is that with your bigger injectors, e-manage, and correct tuning you should be able to boost more than 6.5 psi.

You're right though, there is a risk that comes with FI and with increased boost.


I didn't run it on the dyno.

On a cold dry day, I decided to turn my overtake boost on and set it to 12 psi. After a few runs the boost controller 'learned' the new boost setting and everything was golden.

My car was tuned to the 10 psi and started running lean at around 5K RPMs with the 12 psi setting. I then tuned for the 12 psi and it ran great, but when I went back to 10 psi the car bogs due to it being tuned for 12 psi (and running rich). This is why I have decided to go with a return fuel line system with the new kit so I can tune for all boost levels rather than one or the other.

I don't think I will do any more dyno runs until the new kit is in and running properly.

This kit has been sold, but is still on my car (I am just waiting for my y-pipe from SR20DEN to take it off). If you'd like Icey (to battle any doubt), I will take video of 12 psi runs as well as video of the e-01 graphs of those runs. I'm not one to BS about anything, but if proof is in order, I will be more than happy to do it.

IceY2K1

iTrader: (3)

I don't NOT believe you, I just want to see what a 12psi or 10psi FWD VQ35 single turbo dyno looks like.

I could care less about 1/4 times, videos running 9-second Supras, or any other BS, just the dynos.

I know you posted one, but IIRC it was at a much lower boost.

Also, what kind of timing are you pulling and how?

HNDA ETR

iTrader: (10)

Very interesting... I'll have to talk to SFR about this... Maybe I can push MORE than 400whp... lol...

I'm glad you sold your turbo kit, Matt... I felt bad about backing out on you...

Part of the reason why I went with the SSR/SFR kit is because I wanted to make my contribution to the 5th gen maxima community, and get this kit made!

Roy

pimpjuice

Sorry. I would dyno my 10-12 psi now, but most of my money is being spent on the new project. Once the new kit is in I will dyno it.

Timing is being pulled using the e-manage. If I can remember right, I think I'm pulling about 12 degrees at peak torque.

pimpjuice

I totaly understand. I think it's great that you did this. It's about time a kit is mass produced for the 5.5 gens.

Keep in touch. I'm interested how this all works out.

IceY2K1

iTrader: (3)

You don't have your dynos from before when you stated, "My car was tuned to the 10 psi and started running lean at around 5K RPMs with the 12 psi setting."? They don't need to be current and preferably non-corrected numbers.

"12-degrees at peak torque" is what rpm and boost? Also, VQ35s supposedly really increase timing above 6000rpm, so how much timing did you pull from 6000-6600rpm?

pimpjuice

After my first tune on a dyno, I was very unhappy spending $120 and feeling that the car was still not tuned properly. I decided to start tuning myself using the AEM Wideband uego gauge and sending the A/F output to my e-01. I just make a couple of runs, record the results, and make the necessary adjusments. Saves money and I feel the car is tuned better. This is the reason for having no dyno runs.

I will have to take a look at my timing settings, but I'll let you know a little later.

IceY2K1

iTrader: (3)

Wow...that's even more impressive.

12psi with just road/dynamic tuning.

Please do on the timing.

Cutler

iTrader: (3)

Go away, you aren't gonna install this on your car. You will blow it up on the first run.... You will think making it run lean means it will run faster due to weight reduction

Nissan SE-R

Any thoughts as to how the drivetrain will be able to handle the extra power/torque? I'm wondering if this will turn out like the SE-R's that run high boost and end up going through trannies left and right. What clutch are you going to run?

HNDA ETR

iTrader: (10)

I've got a HLSD 6 speed with the JWT lightened flywheel and stage 2 clutch.

MaximusMorpheus

iTrader: (3)

Wow, this is going to be great!!!!!!!!! Thanks HNDA ETR and SSR/SFR for the advancement of performance products for the 5.5 Gen Maxima.

Stephen Max

iTrader: (59)

Some Stillen SC kits eat their belts. I put 40,000 miles on the belt that I installed with my kit. The only reason I changed it was because I changed to a pulley too small for the present belt.

HNDA ETR

iTrader: (10)

Got some more answers from Tim regarding some of the questions you guys have posted...

First off, because of the difference between the automatic trannys and the 6 speed tranny, he would need to have an automatic in the shop to fit/modify the piping to accomodate automatics.

Same for 2000/2001 5th gens - he would need an actual car to fit the piping to...

The issue with the oil for the turbo - The turbo is being fed via tapping into the same location that the stock oil pressure sending unit is fed from. From there, the oil will go into the turbo.

From the turbo, the oil will (gravity) feed into a "collecting tank". The scavenge pump (a Mocal unit) will then pump the oil from the collection tank into the oil pan - the stock oil pan will be tapped for this.

So the route the oil will flow is this:
Engine -> Turbo -> Collection Tank -> Scavenge Pump -> Oil Pan

The specs for the turbo are:
Garrett T04E V-Band, P-Trim 58 a/r 57 Trim

Intake piping will be 3" diameter

The factory plastic splash shields, underneath the car, will help protect the turbo from any water. Also, Tim says that the airflow provide from the radiator fans, as well as the airflow from underneath the car, will help keep the temperature of the turbo housing down, helping to prevent any possible 'cracking' from water splashes...

Larrio

iTrader: (10)

IMO, the turbo should be insulated, and not cooled down. You want to keep it hot.

Audtatious

As I may get a G35c 6MT later this year I've been investigating a TT or SC setup for that car. From what I've run across, it seems there have been two issues the Z crowed have seen when NOT running in an overboost situation with the VQ35. The first seems to be an issue where the signal from the crank angle sensor becomes erratic, thus causing a timing issue on some vehicles (see: http://www.aps-350z.com/350z/ecu/crank_signal.htm). Another issue I have seen mentioned is in regards to poor Cali and AZ gas formulations causing a lean conditions.

Not sure if any of the above helps with a single-turbo maxima setup, but I'm bored at the moment.

Of course, a set of these would solve the weak rod issues:

HNDA ETR

iTrader: (10)

Hey Larry...

I know you want to keep the exhaust gasses hot... but I don't know about your point about keeping the turbo itself hot...

The turbo is run by the flow of the hot gasses - it being hot on it's own doesn't seem to me, to contribute anything to the picture...

But like I said, I'm new to TC's...

Larrio

iTrader: (10)

It should be cooled and lubricated with oil and/or water, but the outside of the housing shouldn't be directly cooled. For our applications at least, which are different than full race cars running hard for long periods, it will stay at optimum temps with just the airflow in the engine bay. A heatshield or turbo insulation can be used to protect the components surrounding it.
As far as protecting it from F.O.D. (foreign object damage) and water splashes, you may want to talk to Andy about a front splitter/undertray to shield most of the engine bay, and improve aerodynamics at the same time.

HNDA ETR

iTrader: (10)

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