clutch problem...please help
02-28-2005, 09:22 PM
#1
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clutch problem...please help
I adjusted my clutch height by loosening the 14mm bolt that's connected to the rod with the electrical housing on it and turning it clockwise five times. AFter this, my clutch release point has been changing up and down. It first was at the middle, then it went to the floor and then the clutch became stiff and the release point was towards the top. Today morning i backed it up a little by turning the rod counter clockwise two times, therefore having the rod turn a full three clockwise turns. The relase point still seems to be moving. The clutch does not seem engaged because i don't smell it. I've driven about 150 miles or so. Anybody have any suggestions???
02-28-2005, 10:31 PM
#3
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i dont know man, honestly swinging by a local mechanic or asking a friend who might know whats up with fixing cars might be able to check it out. sounds like you didn't quite do something right, which is just stating the obvious. hope it works out for you, best of luck.
03-01-2005, 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by nytrida
I adjusted my clutch height by loosening the 14mm bolt that's connected to the rod with the electrical housing on it and turning it clockwise five times. AFter this, my clutch release point has been changing up and down. It first was at the middle, then it went to the floor and then the clutch became stiff and the release point was towards the top. Today morning i backed it up a little by turning the rod counter clockwise two times, therefore having the rod turn a full three clockwise turns. The relase point still seems to be moving. The clutch does not seem engaged because i don't smell it. I've driven about 150 miles or so. Anybody have any suggestions???
03-01-2005, 04:14 PM
#7
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Posts: 211
You adjusted the wrong one. You should be using a 12mm bolt BEHIND the clutch. It's harder to reach than the 14mm one. There was a looooong thread on this a couple pages back.
If you read the thread/how-to carefully you should be adjusting the 12mm bolt BEHIND the fork that holds the clutch. Loosening that bolt will make it travel towards the firewall, allowing you to shorten the clutch travel length. You take out the cotter pin, remove the fork and turn the FORK (NOT THE ELECTRICAL HOUSING) clockwise to shorten, counter to lengthen. I found that 2 full turns was perfect.
AFTER you do find a good height you THEN adjust the 14mm bolt and the electrical housing (in front of the clutch right?), and adjust it JUST enough to depress the Cruise Control Sensor. (this is only necessary, if you use cruise control. This should NOT adjust the clutch travel distance)
if you only adjusted the electrical housing closest to you... you're frying your clutch, man. it's like putting your foot on the clutch half way the entire time. (didn't you get high revs?)
Now that you know how to do it... are you sure you want to? Once adjusted, the spring is never fully released, making for a "sloppy" feeling. Also, there is still debate going on whether or not the shorter distance is bad for your clutch.
If you read the thread/how-to carefully you should be adjusting the 12mm bolt BEHIND the fork that holds the clutch. Loosening that bolt will make it travel towards the firewall, allowing you to shorten the clutch travel length. You take out the cotter pin, remove the fork and turn the FORK (NOT THE ELECTRICAL HOUSING) clockwise to shorten, counter to lengthen. I found that 2 full turns was perfect.
AFTER you do find a good height you THEN adjust the 14mm bolt and the electrical housing (in front of the clutch right?), and adjust it JUST enough to depress the Cruise Control Sensor. (this is only necessary, if you use cruise control. This should NOT adjust the clutch travel distance)
if you only adjusted the electrical housing closest to you... you're frying your clutch, man. it's like putting your foot on the clutch half way the entire time. (didn't you get high revs?)
Now that you know how to do it... are you sure you want to? Once adjusted, the spring is never fully released, making for a "sloppy" feeling. Also, there is still debate going on whether or not the shorter distance is bad for your clutch.
03-01-2005, 04:19 PM
#8
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http://forums.freshalloy.com/ubbthre...b=5&o=&fpart=1
here's the detailed instructions i used..it would have worked, but i adjusted it a little too low... it was nice while it lasted though!
here's the detailed instructions i used..it would have worked, but i adjusted it a little too low... it was nice while it lasted though!
03-02-2005, 07:30 AM
#9
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Posts: 122
Originally Posted by willkim
You adjusted the wrong one. You should be using a 12mm bolt BEHIND the clutch. It's harder to reach than the 14mm one. There was a looooong thread on this a couple pages back.
If you read the thread/how-to carefully you should be adjusting the 12mm bolt BEHIND the fork that holds the clutch. Loosening that bolt will make it travel towards the firewall, allowing you to shorten the clutch travel length. You take out the cotter pin, remove the fork and turn the FORK (NOT THE ELECTRICAL HOUSING) clockwise to shorten, counter to lengthen. I found that 2 full turns was perfect.
AFTER you do find a good height you THEN adjust the 14mm bolt and the electrical housing (in front of the clutch right?), and adjust it JUST enough to depress the Cruise Control Sensor. (this is only necessary, if you use cruise control. This should NOT adjust the clutch travel distance)
if you only adjusted the electrical housing closest to you... you're frying your clutch, man. it's like putting your foot on the clutch half way the entire time. (didn't you get high revs?)
Now that you know how to do it... are you sure you want to? Once adjusted, the spring is never fully released, making for a "sloppy" feeling. Also, there is still debate going on whether or not the shorter distance is bad for your clutch.
If you read the thread/how-to carefully you should be adjusting the 12mm bolt BEHIND the fork that holds the clutch. Loosening that bolt will make it travel towards the firewall, allowing you to shorten the clutch travel length. You take out the cotter pin, remove the fork and turn the FORK (NOT THE ELECTRICAL HOUSING) clockwise to shorten, counter to lengthen. I found that 2 full turns was perfect.
AFTER you do find a good height you THEN adjust the 14mm bolt and the electrical housing (in front of the clutch right?), and adjust it JUST enough to depress the Cruise Control Sensor. (this is only necessary, if you use cruise control. This should NOT adjust the clutch travel distance)
if you only adjusted the electrical housing closest to you... you're frying your clutch, man. it's like putting your foot on the clutch half way the entire time. (didn't you get high revs?)
Now that you know how to do it... are you sure you want to? Once adjusted, the spring is never fully released, making for a "sloppy" feeling. Also, there is still debate going on whether or not the shorter distance is bad for your clutch.
After you turned the fork two clockwise turns, how many clockwise turns did you do to the electrical housing rod?
03-02-2005, 09:35 AM
#11
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Originally Posted by nytrida
After you turned the fork two clockwise turns, how many clockwise turns did you do to the electrical housing rod?
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