HELP! Can't remove headunit from frame...(pics inside)
#1
HELP! Can't remove headunit from frame...(pics inside)
I am having the worst f-ing luck in the world with removing my OEM headunit. The screws highlighted in red WILL NOT screw a damn's worth. I've put every ounce of strength into it, but it's no use. I've soaked the screws in some WD-40...nothing. WTF is the problem!? This is, literally, driving me nuts. I've posted this here and in the audio forum, because I need as many replies as possible...otherwise, I'm putting everything back together and just saying f*ck it. I just can't get the OEM out of the frame. =(
These are the culprits:
These are the culprits:
#2
Get a ratchet with a long handle and turn the screws...the longer the handle, the more torque you will have. Have 1 person hold the ratchet in-line with the screw, then turn the ratchet...it this does not work at firts, insert a hollow pipe around the ratchet body giving you a longer ratchet...the longer the handle the more torque you will have.
That is how I did it.
That is how I did it.
#5
Originally Posted by MyownNismo
Also I just thought of this. If you strip it out just go to sears where they have a bit the cuts the top off the screw.
#10
Originally Posted by ChromeSE5
i laid that piece on the floor and used my weight and drill to remove the screws. I was having trouble also but once i did that, it worked.
#11
I got em out. Went to my mechanics and the two of them managed to screw them out. Now I'm faced with a new f*cking problem...CD Error FO. The headunit won't open up to take in a CD.
What does CD Error FO mean?
What does CD Error FO mean?
#12
CD slide won't open. I disconnected the HU and will be putting the old one back in tomorrow. The f*cking screws are once again stuck to the frame, and they weren't even fastened tightly when put back on. *sigh*
#24
I had the same problem taking out my stock HU. I broke two or three philips drivers before getting the screws out. I think what finally worked was sticking a nail into the center of the screw head and whacking it with a hammer a few times. This somehow broke the screws free enough to unscrew them. Still took a LOT of force, but they came out.
#26
Originally Posted by Metal Maxima
Get a ratchet with a long handle and turn the screws...the longer the handle, the more torque you will have. Have 1 person hold the ratchet in-line with the screw, then turn the ratchet...it this does not work at firts, insert a hollow pipe around the ratchet body giving you a longer ratchet...the longer the handle the more torque you will have.
That is how I did it.
That is how I did it.
#28
Originally Posted by Bensmax00
thats bs man the longer the handle the more torque you will loose--I use a small screwdriver and if that dont work use a quarter in drive ratchet and a socket that fits a phillips bit and a small extension--those screws are a motha f*&ker--Ive even used an impact driver--a screw driver that u hit with a hammer--but only on defective units not rec for units that are going to be reused
(larger radius = more torque)
#32
Isn't that a girl's name?
iTrader: (17)
Join Date: May 2003
Location: CT. 97,99,02,i30,03,07
Posts: 970
Originally Posted by TheBigDu
Torque = Force * Radius
(larger radius = more torque)
(larger radius = more torque)
my bolts were stuck too when i put in my ddx, i just drilled the stockers out.
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