AngryMax

Ok, I have a 2001 SE, 42,000 miles. Im on my third MAF and it feels like its about to go. Everytime I change it the car drives fine for about 3 weeks. After that it goes back to the same sluggish acceleration problem. I also get this horrible rotten egg smell whenever I accelerate. I had bout this car with about 30,000 miles on it. It had quite a few rusted parts and I dont know what exactly happend to the muffler but It was making so much noise that I eventually bought a brand new one. The car is quiet now but that rotten egg smell is still there and moves like a 4cylinder. could this be my catalytic converter?? Of course I would be able to answer my own question if my ses light would come on. but that thing never lights up, no matter what problem I have with the car.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Then how do you know it was the MAF if your SES light doen't light up? They may have been you. I've heard of some 5th gens having an issue where the pre-cats melt internally and block the passage of exhaust gases resulting in decreased power, but hey

AngryMax

it was a shot in the dark because no one else could figure out what my acceleration problem was, and it worked. after I had them changed my car hauled ***. then approx 3 weeks later the hesitation and the slow acceleration comes right back. my best guess is that something is causing my maf to go bad, possibly my CAT but thats just a guess. but trust me when I say this car is slow

puett

I'm having nearly identical problems - stinky exhuast and no power. Idles fine but takes forever to reach redline and accleration sucks. I initially had a SES and P1320 code so I replaced the coils and plugs but it didn't help. In fact, it's continued to get worse. I was planning on trying the MAF next but your post makes me a little hesitant. I think you're right that there has to be another problem that's causing your MAF to go bad. Unfortunately, I don't have any idea what it may be. Hopefully some of the MAX gurus can shed some light on this....If you figure it out, please repost and share your success;-)

JaredMaxSE

Max or not, historically on any car a rotten egg smell tends to indicated a bad catalytic converter.

More max specific, I dont know much about the precats (I'm a Max noob) so they may create a similar problem. I'd definatly check out ure cat though.

igzy

iTrader: (18)

Yup, you either got a bad cat or pre-cat or both... Rotten egg smell is the unprocessed sulfur from exhaust fumes... I would not touch the MAF... Bad O2 sensors may have caused the problems with cats...

AngryMax

yea, but everyone I take it to basically tells me om full of sh*t just because Im not getting any codes. But the car DEFINITLEY has a problem! Im done with nissan after this car, THEIR SERVICE SUCKS!

puett

I'm with you! They keep telling me that if I'm not getting the SES light, all sensors must be operating fine and that it could be a vaccuum leak. Sure sounds like a cat problem though. Any ideas on how to test the cat and pre-cat, or both???

AngryMax

This is the problem I have now. I've been bouncing from different muffler shops looking for someone with a gauge that can check my back pressure. Then if it is in fact an issue with my cat then I have to convince nissan that the problem exists so they can cover it under my warranty

AngryMax

Is it a definite possibility that my catalytic converter could be bad and not show an ses light

P. Samson

Is there black smoke out the tailpipe on acceleration or when you get the odor?

ses_again

I'm in the middle of a similar set of problems. Fortunately, my 2000 GXE never hessitates to throw a code my way. FYI, here's my story.

1. P0430 code. Dealer says it's the bank 2 cat. Needs to be replaced. Quotes $900 for the job. I blow it off since there is no drivability issue or other noticable problem. Code goes away a few weeks later on it's own.

2. Few weeks later, drivability problem develops. Chugging when it is cold. Poor acceleration on highway. P0350code is thrown.

3. Dealer says that heated O2 sensor is causing the SES code 350 and that my MAF sensor is bad and that is causing chugging. Also, the computer needs reprogramming since the MAF has been bad and all the limits are corrupted. We argue at length about the $199 they want to reprogram it. No idication that the cat converter is bad. Eventually we agree to a price and they do the MAF, O2, and reprogram the computer.

4. Next day, SES light again. P0430 code. Dealer checks it and says that the bank2 converter needs to be replaced.

Now I'm trying to decide if I should buy the part and do it myself or go to a muffler shop. Anyone know which converter is the bank2? Is it welded, or bolted? Any other recommendations if I do the job myself?

Thanks.

BlackBIRDVQ

iTrader: (15)

Main cat will not show up on a scanner as being bad- there are NO sensors behind that cat on a 01-up Maxima.

I'm going to buy maaaaaannnny more Nissans in the future, why ? simply put I am a mechanic, I can fix anything I want on my car, and it gives me NO problems. 113K miles, awesome power, awesome mileage, and plenty of life left in her. I've always owned Nissans, just cause the dealerships in your area suck don't mean the whole car line up does, now does it ? Dealers are INDEPENDANTLY owned repair facilities, and shmucks that work there have bout as much clue bout Maximas as I do 'bout the Space Shuttle.

ses_again

Is there a sensor after the main cat on '00?

Are there "pre-cats" on the factory Y-pipe that could be causing a 430 (catalyst out over threshold) code?

BlackBIRDVQ

iTrader: (15)

There is a sensor on the FED spec 00 models, Cali specs have 4 O2 sensor plugs infront of the valve cover.

430 code is I belive the precat code for the Ypipe precat, but don't hold me to it as I'm not looking up codes right now- going off my memory.

ses_again

Thanks BlackbirdVQ.

How do I know if I have CAL or FED emissions? Yes, I'm a newbie. I assume it doesn't necessarily matter where you bought/registered it.

I put my car up on stands tonight to get a look at the system. (I can't find a diagram of the exhaust system). Looks like there is a cat in the forward pipe (precat? is there only 1?) with a 3 wire sensor on it. Then there is a bigger cat downstream just before the muffler (main cat?). I didn't notice any sensor on or after the downstream cat.

MyownNismo

iTrader: (13)

ses_again

Thanks MyOwnNismo. That diagram helps. Do you have a diagram showing where the precats are? I'm told there are 2 on the stock Ypipe, but I can only see one (bottom of car).

ses_again

Wait.. I just found the diagram I need.

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....47#post3976447

Nevermind. Seems that I get differnet search results using yahoo and google.

RetroKing

How do you know if you need the cat replaced or the MAF? I got a P0138 code a couple of months ago and got a sensor replaced. Recently on starting the car it idles rough (hesitation and sputtering) and it only quits when I accelerate. When I come to a stop it idles rough again. Today it was good and bad. One minute I would start it and it would run fine and the next the rough idling, hesitation, etc. would return. I just don't want to get stuff with a huge mechanic bill that may not fix the true problem. Any test I can perform. '00 Max SE with 92,000 miles on it. Had the rotten egg smell for a short time period today. Any recommendations on sites to purchase the parts myself to save some $$$? Help a brother out. Thx in advance!