I just purchased a 00 Gray Lustre SE 2 days ago and on the ride home from picking it up had an SES light come on. I went to the local Auto Zone and the codes they wrote down for me were P0139 and P0138 which convert to codes 0707 and 0510 with the Hayne's manual. On the diagnosis readout the scrolling text read "P0139 - O2 Sensor CTK Slow Response (Bank 1, Sensor 2) and P0138 - O2 Sensor Circuit High Volts (Bank 1, Sensor 2)." I read the thread defining all of the codes and understand the concept of the O2 sensor downstream from the cat only functioning to monitor the cat until otherwise neccesary but the thread still confused me a little on exactly what I need to do to solve this. The guy at Auto Zone seemed like a tool (took him 8 times to get a reading ) but he said that he thought that I needed to replace the 3rd sensor. Is this right? Please help, sorry, I know you guys prob get this a lot but I can't afford to replace something that's unnecessary right now. Thanks.

-Kevin

P.S. Also the car pulls REALLY hard to the left, when I got the alignment checked the rear left toe was off by .78 degrees and the front right camber was off by .46 degrees . I've heard that the rear's aren't adjustable, is this true? and if so what would need to be replaced. The previous owner of this car seriously sucked at life.

 

Rear O2 does nothing unless the front sensors are bad. I would replace the sensor anyways to get rid of CEL. You can get one from www.oxygensensors.com, call them and ask for maxima.org discount.

 

P0138
Possible Cause
Harness or connectors
(The sensor circuit is open or shorted.)
Rear heated oxygen sensor
Fuel pressure
Injectors
Intake air leaks

P0139
same

 

hey dude the rear o2 sensors are monitors for the cats--you do not want the rear o2 sensors to look like the front(on a graph--you can do this on a consult) the rear o2 sensors monitor the cat and the front monitor the exhaust--the less oxygen that comes out of the cats the more the oxygen sensor voltage change(we call it switching) and if you get the codes for the rear o2's then there should be a bulletin for it--you just have to see if it applies to your vehicle---replace o2 sensors and reprogram--

 

Woops, I applied too much 4th gen stuff

But when the front ones die the ECU relies on the rear one to do everything. The rear does NOT affect the MAPS like the front ones do. That is why I said it does nothing

 

Have you checked to make sure the car hasn't been wrecked? There could be signs of frame damage and/or frame repairs.

 

no i haven't had the car checked yet, but i fear the wreck situation being a problem b/c of misc. other things like the cars paint being unusually crappy (looks like a repaint) and other stuff. but either way can the toe be recalibrated?

also i fully understand that the rear o2 sensor won't affect the MAPS and only monitors the cat but which sensor should i replace? All of them? i am checking the link right now but replacing a specific sensor would be awesome if you guys knew which one to start with. From what i am gathering, the rear sensor is most likely fine... it is one of the ones in front of the cat?

 

o yea, thanx for the input. seriously i appreciate it.

 

To know if the Car was on a frame machine look under the car where that little strip is where most people clamps jacks too and if on both side of the by the rear wheel there are teeth markings the frame was pulled

 

yea the car was definetly wrecked which REALLY sucks for me (the shaft-e) but anyways any more advice on the o2's? What is the difference between the universal walker's and the oem walker's other than obviously being made for the max. the only difference i could find was that they needed to be spliced into the old harnesses which i have no prob with. any horror/success stories from using these?

 

where'd you buy the car, you better have gotten one hell of a deal.

 

here is a tsb that will show you where the rear 02 sensor is and what needs to be done. I got my universal replacement rear O2 sensor from oxygensensors.com for $50. It's a good way to go if you feel comfortable splicing the wires yourself otherwise you can buy one specific for your max for more $. I have an 00 max as well.
http://maxima.theowensfamily.com/tsb/NTB02-051a.pdf

 

That sounds like one shady as hell deal. I would talk to the dealership and ask them the REAL story behind that car. Did they give you a carfax?

 

it was purchased out of state, unseen (for some reason i trusted the guy) and through a private seller, and the deal was 3500 under the vehicle value supposedly, but yea the guy f***ed me REAAAAAAAAAAAALLLLLL good. I still love the car and with time it will be back to par.

 

makdaddy posting under this name

 

See what the disclosure laws for that forsaken land where you bought the car. There has to be some legal coarse of action in that state.Your camber problem in the rear will haunt you till you get rid of the car. Get a documented inspection with the details and findings, take the paperwork to a lawyer. This is just my opinion. Take it for what it's worth. Good luck!!

 

You got 'd BADLY

 

yep i did. but about the lawyer thing, nothing was written down. everything was verbal. can anything still be done? the car isn't that bad, im just real **** (wtf is up with the recurring theme here) about things like that and things like the car never being taken care of leading to something as stupid as love bugs eating right through the paint really pisses me off. but it is all good b/c this is all fuel for modding...hopefully.

 

It all depends on the laws in thet state in which the car was purchased. In FL, I can return any car w/in 3 days regardless and the lemon law pushes that out to an item on the car failing 3 times in the first year of ownership. Of coarse you have to pay for that years use of the car, but you can get out from under it. Call a lawyer in that state and see if he can help. Whatever you do, don't mod it yet. Find out what can be done. You may very well be screwed, but until you find out, you can never be sure if any recoarse was available.

 

Bugs eating through the paint?

 

I bet you'll wish you paid the extra $3500 for one with a CarFax by the time you replace a rear axle to fix your alignment issues.

 

Good aligment machine shows a center line or thrust line of the vehicle. By looking at that line you can tell if the frame is straight or not. You should have bout -.75 deg of camber in the rear and .02 deg of toe if the beam is straight. There is nothing you can do other than repleace the beam. After you do that and the center line is still not right- then your frame is bad and the car is mostlikely dog tracking (rear wheels offset compared to the fronts).

As for the rear 02, its not needed, I don't have them on my Max- runing 02 Sims.