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Ever felt the steering wandering??

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Old 07-16-2005, 07:37 PM
  #41  
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I have similar problems, when going over some bumps, the car will almost steer itself. I noticed that even after alignment the car willl pull to the left. I did notice that putting as little as 2 psi into the tire with less air will help the car go straight. Recently changed one inner tie rod due to some play in the wheel, but steering still feels loose. Anyone knows how long it will take for a shop to change the control arms?
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Old 07-16-2005, 07:59 PM
  #42  
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Get your LCA's off Ebay, $66 +shipping , they come with brand new bushings and balljoints , parts are made in Taiwan but they fit perfect and bushings looks robust.

Inner and outer tie rods could be found on Ebay.....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...spagename=WD1V


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Old 07-18-2005, 06:32 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by ZIPPIN
Recently I have noticed that the steering wanders after hitting the smallest bumps on the road. It's almost like a loose feeling in the steering. Anyone else ever have that problem? She has 115K and I am sure the bushings are worn. I am just not sure which ones to change and how.

Any ideas????
On my last car I had an Issue like this and it turned out a tie rod went bad. Basically the steering felt loose and mushy especially when turning. It felt like the steering as slippin'
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Old 07-18-2005, 08:03 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by ZIPPIN
these things make me wanna get rid of her. do the coilover guys have the same problems??

I have D2's and no such problem....
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Old 08-12-2005, 05:17 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by nick
Get your LCA's off Ebay, $66 +shipping , they come with brand new bushings and balljoints , parts are made in Taiwan but they fit perfect and bushings looks robust.

Inner and outer tie rods could be found on Ebay.....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...spagename=WD1V


Nick.
thats all i need to replace then? in a previous post you wrote " replace inner tie rods/ LCA bushings / balljoints and sway bar bushings" so i will need inner tie rods, and sway bar and LCA bushings only? where can i get the bushings?
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Old 08-12-2005, 05:36 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by ZIPPIN
thats all i need to replace then? in a previous post you wrote " replace inner tie rods/ LCA bushings / balljoints and sway bar bushings" so i will need inner tie rods, and sway bar and LCA bushings only? where can i get the bushings?

well you can spend chit load of $$$ on parts from Nissan , or you can save a bunch and get them from ebay

They have inner and outer tie rods, brand new LCA's that come with new balljoints and bushings, and sway bar endlinks with bushings.

I do not recommend Enegry suspension polyutherene bushings - they are too stiff and result in lots of unwanted road feel and harshness.

If you have lots of miles on your car , replace your LCA's with new ones, its much quicker then messing with balljoints and burning off old bushings and then looking for place with press to have them pressed in.

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Old 08-12-2005, 05:40 AM
  #47  
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ZIPPIN, i know you said your struts are fine but just thought you might want to check again.

I thought mine was fine too until i had a hunch it was worn or blown - only to be verified when Matt took it off and we started playing with it. It would compress but no longer rebound. Matt also brought up the idea that perhaps my bushings were worn but i left that out of the equation at that time (too much $$).

So we replaced the struts instead to some GR-2's. The steering is now very tight and a lot more responsive, no more wandering and transient maneuvers is awesome. I had 66k on my old struts btw.
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Old 08-12-2005, 04:26 PM
  #48  
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nick and soundmike,

thank you for the responses. i will take her in to get the LRA and inner and outer tie rods looked at tomorrow. i want to make sure i know what to change. will post results
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Old 08-12-2005, 07:14 PM
  #49  
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just a FYI, the condition you guy s are refering to is called 'bump steer', and is caused by several things, a few that AMGE55 mentioned, but usually a difference in angle between the LCA and steering link. usually caused by lowering or worn suspension parts, when the suspension is bound, the tie rod tends to push outward or pull inward, depending on it mounting, which will cause the knuckle, and thus the wheel to turn inward or outward, depending on the tie rod and steering gear/rack position. its easier to explain with an MS paint diagram.
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