NJDevil210

so 2 days ago i pulled out of a parking lot i was hanging out with my friends in....i pulled onto the street and went to get on it and it wouldnt rev past 2500 rpms....i drove the rest of the way down the street and pulled in somewhere and shut the car off...turned it back on 5 minutes later and it ran fine....went to fill up at the gas station and then went home for the night...yesterday...i drove to Atlantic City for hot import nights....i noticed a definiate loss in power from about 2000-3500 and when i was stopped and went to accelerate quick from a stop it wouldnt take off like it usually does....went to hot import nights for a good 6 hours and drove home...car has been running perfect since then...just like it used to...i have no idea what this could be besides the MAF...any ideas?

thanks

doug

Progress

iTrader: (26)

That's odd, but then again I'm not familiar with the 5.5 gen MAF. When my '00 MAF went bad it had the same symptoms yours did except they were consistent. It was definitely blown. Power loss was notable and it would barely rev above 1500 until warm. I don't know what to tell you since your symptoms have gone away.

GL

EastSideMaxima

iTrader: (4)

Usually when the MAF has failed the car struggles and chokes to get past 2500rpm and it eventually shuts off if you keep pressing the gas... and you cant startup the car without removing the plug to the MAF. I have an '02 and went thru this 3 yrs ago... at that time the MAF was on National back order! man... what a PIA!

Try to get some codes pulled at Autozone if u can...

Shogunsc4

iTrader: (2)

Have your throttle body checked...my 2k3 had similar symtoms when the TB went bad.

95MAXDRIVER

Your Maf Is F@@ked I Just Got Mine Warrantied That Is Exactly What I Was Experiencing..

rbrown81

iTrader: (3)

Maaaaaaaaaf

chinaonnitrous1

iTrader: (12)

Yeap, yours is going to go.................Intakes can possibly accelerate the process. But at this point, its not broken, so nissan wont warantee it. Just anticipate it, and have a AAA or a tow truck's phone number ready.

Shogunsc4

iTrader: (2)

what is the part number ao all those mafs that u have blown up? I'm on my fourth maybe a fifth. 3 AM600 and a 2Y001.

NJDevil210

so how much should i expect to pay for a new one? is it going to be $400 for the 2k2 2k3 one or can i put a 2k 2k1 one on?

doug

Shogunsc4

iTrader: (2)

updated 2k1 maf (22680-2Y001) will work with the SES light on unless u transfer the thermistor wire. This maf runs less than $100. The 2k3 model (22680-AM600) runs over $400. Some claims that they are the same parts but I doubt it since a reprogram is recommended if u use a 2k1 maf in a 2k3 maxima.

bebandit

My car is experiencing extremly rough idling and stalls out after being started, once I get the car warmed up/moving the car for a few minutes it won't stall anymore and the idle smooths out (little rough still but not shaking the car when cold). Even after "warmed up" though I can feel the car holding back/fighting me on the power - when I hit WOT it can hesitate for a good number of seconds before it starts giving me the power I want and then it is still slow to come on.

I ordered a new MAF from Dave B and when it arrives I am hoping it will fix my problem. Will keep you posted. I have a feeling that experimenting with various cold air intake set-ups prematurely killed it - all the moving around and exposure to forced air.... (at least I got the CAI set-up I like finalized).

chinaonnitrous1

iTrader: (12)

Ive had all the versions of the MAF, and using the 2k1 Maf was the best soloution for me.

NJDevil210

so are there 2 versions of the 2k1 MAF? a original one and an updated version? i see the one on courtesy parts for $89 and the first part of the model number is the same as the one you said but the second half just specifies its for the VQ30. if i put this one on will i throw an SES light or will it be ok? chinaon what happened when you put the 2k1 MAF in? any problems? sorry so many questions guys but i just want to make sure i get this problem worked out.

thanks

doug

Shogunsc4

iTrader: (2)

Call DaveB and make sure you ask him for the 22680-2Y001. The MAF alone WILL trigger the SES light...but it will run fine. To get rid of the SES, you have to transfer the thermistor wire from your 2k3 MAF.

spiromax

Not being able to rev over 2500 is one symptom of a bad MAF, but if your MAF really did go out, then you should've had a SES light. I've also never heard of a MAF going bad then going good again.

chinaonnitrous1

iTrader: (12)

Wrong..mine did that. I was wondering what it was, didnt know, and it failed 2 days later, it was so erratic.

tlong

I agree its your MAF. I changed mine. 10 minutes. Done

NismoMaxm

ive had the same symtoms in my 00 max and its pissing me the hell off. i also have a very bad cat and am waiting still on customenterprise, they were backordered. i have a new MAF and im tempted to throw it on there but i dont wanna screw it all up since i have such a bad cat.

will the bad cat or whatever blow the MAF cause i dont have the damn money to buy another one.

nicks79

iTrader: (4)

Cat has nothing to do with your MAF.

I just had my car stall twice after startup at the gas station. I got new MAF 15k ago. I wonder if this one is about to go. Also car lacks power, specially in 2nd. Maybe its good to keep one in the trunk.

NismoMaxm

also when i put on a new MAF should i expect to see like immediate results or does it take a few minutes for the new MAF to progrma itself accordingly with my intake and such??

Shogunsc4

iTrader: (2)

you will notice it right away.

bugbite77

iTrader: (14)

i also have power loss in 2nd gear on my 02, when i hit the gas to merge, it feels like the power is being given to me in very noticeable steps, is this a possible dieing MAF?

Shogunsc4

iTrader: (2)

maybe fuel injectors? Usually when the MAF blows (from my experience after blown 4), the car will do one of the following:
-low and rough idle
-car will not rev over ~2500 rpm
-power surges (barely drivable)
-lack of power

bugbite77

iTrader: (14)

my idle is solid
my revs will go 4k and up
its driveable
i just have lack in power

since i have my 60Kmile check up comin up in 5k miles, do u guys sugest me takeing the intake off and puting the stock 17's on? just incase they use the easy way out and say that these aditions are causeing the roblems?

Shogunsc4

iTrader: (2)

I think rims would be fine but intake...ha the dealer will definitely blame the intake if anything goes wrong. But since you have 60k miles, warantee is no longer an issue as far as powertain goes. What's the part # on your MAF?

bugbite77

iTrader: (14)

i have a few # on my MAF, here they are in the rows and coloms that they are on the MAF

22680 6N200

AEEE002 <DH7>

A36-000 A00 1716

what can u tell me about this?

tool46&2

iTrader: (3)

I know this may sound stupid!
But where is the P/N on the MAF?
I've looked on my 02 but I was unable to find it. (I heard the earlier MAF on 02's were weak and they were upgraded on the later 02's and 03's.)
Do you have to take the MAF off to see the P/N?

NismoMaxm

put my new MAF in and it didnt do crap.Taking it to the shop tomorrow hopefully the car is ****ed.

bebandit

Per my post above, I got my new MAF and installed it. Cranked the car and no more rough idle, no more stalling, etc. My RPM's are a little high and the check engine light is still on but I am thinking that once I detach the battery long enough to clear the light and then let the car idle to re-learn/re-set the idle I will be fine - I didn't leave the battery unhooked long enough to clear the light b/c the whole MAF replacement took only 5 minutes!

What a huge difference on start-up, no more rough idle (car was literally shaking), RPM's going up/down and then a stalling/dying. I will drive the car to work today to see if I got my power back when applying throttle, but so far so good. (Even if I still need to replace an O2 sensor which I thought may have been a culprit, I apparantely definitely needed a new MAF b/c that fixed all my rough idling and stalling probs on start-up). I recommend a new MAF for those of you bros who have similar probs to the ones I had (see post above). I'll drive to work today and let everyone know how the driving part goes....

P.S. Thanks to Dave B. for a nice price on a MAF and quickly next-day shipping it out to me. Very pleased with his turn-around time and service.

Shogunsc4

iTrader: (2)

22680-6N200 is the part number. That's one of the weak MAF for the maximas and I think there is a TSB (lack of power/hesistation) for the upgraded 22680-AM600 MAF along with the ECU update.

Shogunsc4

iTrader: (2)

locate the black plastic tube part of the intake where a plug is plugged into. Its on the tube casing. It should read 22680-*****

Shogunsc4

iTrader: (2)

Dont want to scare you but if your MAF blows again within 5000 miles (like my 2k3 for 4X)...it's the ECU malfunctioning. My 2k3 did the same thing blowing MAFs every ~5000 miles and after the dealer visit it idled high @ 900rpm. They replaced another MAF, 2 TBs but didnt help...then a new ECU took care of it. When the car idled abnormal at 900rpm...I reset the ECU, did idle learn and throttle positioning....didnt help a thing.

bebandit

Do you think your ECU problem was 2003 year specific? I'm crossing my fingers that this MAF holds up.

My car drives well and my problems fixed but my check engine light won't clear. I am now wondering if I need to update my ECU to take into account that I switched to the updated MAF (cheaper). The light is on right when I crank the car which is so fast (versus coming on after a few minutes after clearing the light)..... HHmmmm.... Half happy my car is working better but still frustrated that there is something still wrong.

Shogunsc4

iTrader: (2)

actually no...ECU malfunctioning is pretty rare. Is your car still idling high?

bones4u

I have a 2000 Maxima SE. It started stalling at cold start, then stalling at lights till warm. Over a couple weeks, it stalls constantly warm or cold, it has much lower power and seems to not want to rev. It idles at light in any gear around 500 rpms, but will jump to 700 then down to maybe 200, back and forth, stalls many times if not put in neutral and the gas pumped. Shakes at stop lights sometimes, a great deal. All this in the past week. Had a major tuneup, was told on this site to check for the wrong spark plugs. Went yesterday they had used Bosch Platinum, had them change out to NGK plat. Only code it pulls is for the O2 sensor near the firewall, which it has had on and off for a while..
The shop was clueless yesterday and kept it over night.... HELP..Please

bones4u

How do you get in touch with Dave B for parts, I searched and couldn't seem to find his contact ....