2k2 3.5L -- Did an oil change last night, this morning car made an awful rattling.
10-19-2005, 09:18 AM
#41
Originally Posted by chinaonnitrous1
Man, I would not TRUST a nissan dealer to rip out half my motor..........
With the cost cutting, shady mangment of independently owned nissan dealers.
Nissan North America, always says, that they cannot control the actions of the dealerships since they are privately owned.
Yet they send out certificates and recgonition based on what? The least amount of complaints the dealership reccives?
NNA dosen't back up the customers, just the dealerships. Ive had to pull teeth and go head to head with NNA, and the tech they sent out to replace a faulty MAF in january 2002. And guess what, they have a new-and improved version later.
Unless you have a super strong relationship with your service manager, I wouldnt bring my car within sight of a dealership.
With the cost cutting, shady mangment of independently owned nissan dealers.
Nissan North America, always says, that they cannot control the actions of the dealerships since they are privately owned.
Yet they send out certificates and recgonition based on what? The least amount of complaints the dealership reccives?
NNA dosen't back up the customers, just the dealerships. Ive had to pull teeth and go head to head with NNA, and the tech they sent out to replace a faulty MAF in january 2002. And guess what, they have a new-and improved version later.
Unless you have a super strong relationship with your service manager, I wouldnt bring my car within sight of a dealership.
10-19-2005, 11:14 AM
#42
Originally Posted by BigFly_2K2SE
That's why he said fill it halfway. If you fill it half and then turn it 90 as you screw it on all in one motion, you won't spill a drop.
10-19-2005, 11:27 AM
#43
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 301
Originally Posted by PoLo
NO. IT WILL SPILL. i don't wanna hear it. that's just dumb. period.
James
10-19-2005, 11:36 AM
#44
Originally Posted by PoLo
NO. IT WILL SPILL. i don't wanna hear it. that's just dumb. period.
10-19-2005, 11:38 AM
#45
Originally Posted by BigFly_2K2SE
If you spill then you don't know what you're doing. I've done it probably 10 times on my 2K2 and I NEVER SPILL A DROP. And it's actually a good idea. Period.
10-19-2005, 03:55 PM
#46
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2000
Posts: 1,985
Originally Posted by PoLo
filter sits at 90 degrees and you need to screw it in. would you like to rethink your statement.
10-19-2005, 04:08 PM
#47
Originally Posted by theMax
Been working on cars long? Most experienced mechanics will put a little oil in the filter. Try it, fill the filter about 1/2 way and tip it over, it will hold a fair bit of oil before leaking out when you screw it on. When you crank the car after an oil change it starts right up, no noise! I do it on every car I own. This eliminates the oil pump having to push the oil through the filter on startup, it provides an immediate source of oil for the engine, reducing startup wear and noise.
10-19-2005, 04:09 PM
#48
I dunno who knows what theyre doing, but on my 2k2, in 90k miles I always filled the filter about 1/2 way with oil before putting it back in. IIRC it was always reccomended, so the car dosent start completely dry the first time you crank it after an oil change.
10-19-2005, 04:31 PM
#49
Ok so whats the story with the potential timing chain rattle? How can one get this fixed if their 8 year 80,000 mile powertrain factory warranty is expired? I get the noise often on cold startup and also while driving in the 1,500 - 2,500 RPM.
10-19-2005, 05:05 PM
#50
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 580
Originally Posted by RR5
Ok so whats the story with the potential timing chain rattle? How can one get this fixed if their 8 year 80,000 mile powertrain factory warranty is expired? I get the noise often on cold startup and also while driving in the 1,500 - 2,500 RPM.
10-19-2005, 08:31 PM
#51
Originally Posted by Colossus
I stopped in at the local Nissan dealership and bought four oil filters (buy 3, 4th filter is free) for a 2002 Maxima 3.5 liter. Not sure on part number, but it's on my receipt I'm sure.
Thats probably why......That filter is JUNK....just like the el cheapo Fram...NO Check valve....
The right filter that you should be using is listed in the Fluid/Lube section of these forums....
Recommended Oil Filters for VQ engines, ranked in order of preference based upon my own observations:
* Mobil 1 M1-105 (fits VQ35DE only)
* Nissan OEM 15208-9E000 ONLY (for all VQ30DE and VQ35DE engines)
* Mobil 1 M1-110 (fits both VQ engines, but bypass valve isn't as good as M1-105 filter)
* Amsoil SDF-20 (fits both VQ engines)
Oil Filters to avoid:
* Nissan OEM 15208-65F00 (specified for VQ35DE by Nissan dealer; refuse to purchase this filter as it has cardboard endcaps like low quality Fram filters; insist on the dealer using the 15208-9E000 oil filter as it has a better overall construction quality)
* STP S6941 (Production change in mid-2003 to Mexico has created inferior quality; Some fitment issues on VQ35DE engines, so only VQ30DE engines should use this one)
* Bosch 3323 (Production change in mid-2003 to Mexico has created inferior quality; for all VQ30DE and VQ35DE engines)
* Any SuperTech filter (Due to production change in mid-2003 to Mexico that has resulted in inferior quality)
* Any filter made by Fram (consistently poor construction quality)
* Amsoil SDF-13 (pricier than SDF-20 and smaller)
* Mobil 1 M1-108 (pricier than M1-110 and smaller)
* Mobil 1 M1-105 (fits VQ35DE only)
* Nissan OEM 15208-9E000 ONLY (for all VQ30DE and VQ35DE engines)
* Mobil 1 M1-110 (fits both VQ engines, but bypass valve isn't as good as M1-105 filter)
* Amsoil SDF-20 (fits both VQ engines)
Oil Filters to avoid:
* Nissan OEM 15208-65F00 (specified for VQ35DE by Nissan dealer; refuse to purchase this filter as it has cardboard endcaps like low quality Fram filters; insist on the dealer using the 15208-9E000 oil filter as it has a better overall construction quality)
* STP S6941 (Production change in mid-2003 to Mexico has created inferior quality; Some fitment issues on VQ35DE engines, so only VQ30DE engines should use this one)
* Bosch 3323 (Production change in mid-2003 to Mexico has created inferior quality; for all VQ30DE and VQ35DE engines)
* Any SuperTech filter (Due to production change in mid-2003 to Mexico that has resulted in inferior quality)
* Any filter made by Fram (consistently poor construction quality)
* Amsoil SDF-13 (pricier than SDF-20 and smaller)
* Mobil 1 M1-108 (pricier than M1-110 and smaller)
10-19-2005, 09:09 PM
#53
Originally Posted by RR5
Argh not the powertrain warranty, the federal emissions warranty..
10-19-2005, 09:15 PM
#54
It gets more and more easier to reproduce the noise. I'd rather opt to get it fixed.. but at a pretty low cost to me. I cannot just drop $1,000 to 2,000 to have someone rip out half my engine on a noise hunting expeidition.
10-19-2005, 09:32 PM
#55
Originally Posted by RR5
It gets more and more easier to reproduce the noise. I'd rather opt to get it fixed.. but at a pretty low cost to me. I cannot just drop $1,000 to 2,000 to have someone rip out half my engine on a noise hunting expeidition.
10-20-2005, 04:18 AM
#56
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 301
Originally Posted by PoLo
how is it a good idea. what does it provide as an advantage. i'll stand corrected, but i'm very doubtfull that it is THAT helpful, if any.
James
10-20-2005, 05:53 AM
#57
Originally Posted by BigFly_2K2SE
Well, as mentioned earlier there is a TSB that tells anybody exactly what needs to be done, so I wouldn't say that it will be a "noise hunting expeditition", but by sounds it will still be pretty costly. If you want low cost then I suggest that you talk to some mechanically inclined friends or start practicing yourself. I don't think there is any cheap fix. At least not that I am aware of because I would love to hear about one if there is.
How easy would it be to ask if I could use their shop/tools and experience if I get stuck is another question though. Why oh why does it have to be in the timing chain area?
10-21-2005, 07:53 AM
#60
Its a bulletin that Nissan releases which helps Dealership technicans fix problems.
Here is one:
http://www.atalla.net/maxima/WindNoiseTSB.pdf
From this thread:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=29351
Here is one:
http://www.atalla.net/maxima/WindNoiseTSB.pdf
From this thread:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=29351
10-24-2005, 10:09 PM
#62
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Location: Middleboro/Carver, Ma
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So i have one quick question about the 9e000, on the application chart on the box it would cover an a33 3.5 2004 I35? I know this is a fairly stuipid question but I'm so careful about covering my butt w/warranty.
Also, I originally wasn't to concerned with my break-in oil consumption but at 15k the oil still gets considerably contaminated and loses about .25qt between 3k mile dino 5/30 changes. (I also have the cold start vct rattle??) Break-in was done "by the book" with it's first drive being on the highway for about an hour, but I was varying the speed most of the time between 40-60mph. By 400 miles it used .5 quart, by 800 it was done another 1/2 qt, I had it changed at 1200 miles because it was very contaminated from blow-by and what not, it really looked crappy and broken-down. I'm very curious as to what everyone thinks about this, I'd also like to hear from other 3.5 owners break-in consumption amounts.
((Oh one quick favor to ask also, I'm not trying to clutter this thread, and this info might be pertinent to my situation, I only need help finding a post... one time at about 1k miles I was moderatly accelerating from a stop, I was at 1/4 throttle and it happened between 2-3k in 1st gear. I swear it was mildly detonating under light load, it sounded like that classic marbles in the exhaust sound, If possible could someone guide me to the thread about the pre-cat problem, I can't search and I've scanned back almost 20 pages, TIA.))
Also, I originally wasn't to concerned with my break-in oil consumption but at 15k the oil still gets considerably contaminated and loses about .25qt between 3k mile dino 5/30 changes. (I also have the cold start vct rattle??) Break-in was done "by the book" with it's first drive being on the highway for about an hour, but I was varying the speed most of the time between 40-60mph. By 400 miles it used .5 quart, by 800 it was done another 1/2 qt, I had it changed at 1200 miles because it was very contaminated from blow-by and what not, it really looked crappy and broken-down. I'm very curious as to what everyone thinks about this, I'd also like to hear from other 3.5 owners break-in consumption amounts.
((Oh one quick favor to ask also, I'm not trying to clutter this thread, and this info might be pertinent to my situation, I only need help finding a post... one time at about 1k miles I was moderatly accelerating from a stop, I was at 1/4 throttle and it happened between 2-3k in 1st gear. I swear it was mildly detonating under light load, it sounded like that classic marbles in the exhaust sound, If possible could someone guide me to the thread about the pre-cat problem, I can't search and I've scanned back almost 20 pages, TIA.))
10-24-2005, 10:10 PM
#63
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I also posted the above in an on-going thread in the oils section, this thread seemed to be just as appropriate of a place, and also seems to be getting more interest, but if A moderator was to delete it I'd be cool with that. Thanks
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