Front rotor won't come off
#1
Front rotor won't come off
I'm replacing the front rotors on my '03 SE with Powerslots. I started on the the left side. The caliper and bracket came off fine but the rotor wouldn't budge. I tapped the backside of the rotor with a rubber mallet and then moved up to a 3 lb sledge hitting a small block of wood with no results. Do I need a big gear puller or am I missing something?
I also noticed that 2 of the new Hawk pads I'm installing have a clip that matches the guide pin on the caliper but 2 of the pads don't have this clip. Both pads I took off the left side have this clip. Is this clip not needed on all 4 pads?
Thanks in advance.
Bruce
'03 SE - 60K miles
I also noticed that 2 of the new Hawk pads I'm installing have a clip that matches the guide pin on the caliper but 2 of the pads don't have this clip. Both pads I took off the left side have this clip. Is this clip not needed on all 4 pads?
Thanks in advance.
Bruce
'03 SE - 60K miles
#4
Did mine 2 weeks ago....just used a block of wood and a hammer and pounded the **** out of it. Try rotating the rotor a few times hitting it in different places and it should come off.
I put on slotted rotors with Hawk hps and I must say I am more than happy with them. Great stopping power and no more shaking.
I put on slotted rotors with Hawk hps and I must say I am more than happy with them. Great stopping power and no more shaking.
#7
I replaced my rotors over the summer and had the same problem. Ditch the block of wood and just hit it with the sledge until it comes off. I used a 10 lb sledge and still had to hit it pretty hard.
#8
Easy with the hammering....my rear rotor was frozen in the hub and I didn't have a proper size bolt to loosen it. I ended up hammering the shat out of it till it came off. BUT in the process I bent my hub.
#13
My fronts did not have the tapped holes so I used a big (I think it was 12") jaw puller on them (got it for $25 at a hardware store) and the rears had two tapped holes in them. I just had to find the right bolts for them. I think they were M8. Drive the bolts in and it will get the rotors off...
#14
Thanks to everyone that responded. I just got the old rotors off tonight and installed the new Powerslots rotors and Hawk pads. I ended up going to Harbor Freight and buying a $10 8" gear puller. It popped them off real easy. I hopefully seated the pads and rotors in properly.
Can't wait for that first hard stop without that warped rotor vibration!
BruceB
'03 SE
Can't wait for that first hard stop without that warped rotor vibration!
BruceB
'03 SE
#15
This is how I removed them. Buy a 4 inch long, 1/2" wide bolt with a hex head. Along with a matching nut and washer. Then insert the bolt into the caliper mounting bracket from behind the rotor (the hole that is used to mount the caliper). Use a regular sized ratchet to turn the bolt. With your other hand use a wrench to hold the nut steady. Tighten it up and within 1 minute the rotor will pop off. No need to
I had this same problem last week when trying to remove my front oem rotors, which were completely rusted on (60K miles with Canadian winters). Here's a pic of the bolt, nut, & washer setup: (used a camera phone)
I had this same problem last week when trying to remove my front oem rotors, which were completely rusted on (60K miles with Canadian winters). Here's a pic of the bolt, nut, & washer setup: (used a camera phone)
#18
Originally Posted by Nathan
This is how I removed them. Buy a 4 inch long, 1/2" wide bolt with a hex head. Along with a matching nut and washer. Then insert the bolt into the caliper mounting bracket from behind the rotor (the hole that is used to mount the caliper). Use a regular sized ratchet to turn the bolt. With your other hand use a wrench to hold the nut steady. Tighten it up and within 1 minute the rotor will pop off. No need to
I had this same problem last week when trying to remove my front oem rotors, which were completely rusted on (60K miles with Canadian winters). Here's a pic of the bolt, nut, & washer setup: (used a camera phone)
I had this same problem last week when trying to remove my front oem rotors, which were completely rusted on (60K miles with Canadian winters). Here's a pic of the bolt, nut, & washer setup: (used a camera phone)
#19
The screw thing (excellent idea BTW !!) will likely damage the rotor but who cares if you are replacing it anyway... Besides, I am not too big of a fan of hammering on it as the wheel bearing may suffer and the neighbours may not like the noise...
#20
hmmm...ive never had that problem but then again it feels like i replace my front brakes just about every other oil change. O wait i do... thats right new pfb (performance friction brakes) pads and a machine of the rotors as needed every 4-6 months. i get new pads free from autozone i just tell them they started squeaking now if i could only get rotors that would be sweet
#21
Originally Posted by k2max_driver
hmmm...ive never had that problem but then again it feels like i replace my front brakes just about every other oil change. O wait i do... thats right new pfb (performance friction brakes) pads and a machine of the rotors as needed every 4-6 months. i get new pads free from autozone i just tell them they started squeaking now if i could only get rotors that would be sweet
#22
Originally Posted by okay
Does that damage the rotor? I did my brakes just this summer, glad mine came off with ease.
#23
Torch
**** beating the **** out of your car or wasting time on elaborate ways to remove rotors.... do this and sit back drinking a cold one > I replaced both rotors with powerslots and put new hawks pads in under 30 minutes!
2 minute job........get a torch form home depot, lowes ect...the knid you do home plumbing repairs with. Heat the hub on the flat surface in between where the studs come out just heat up evenly all around...it will fall right off in less than two minutes.....I have done this on many, many cars.
2 minute job........get a torch form home depot, lowes ect...the knid you do home plumbing repairs with. Heat the hub on the flat surface in between where the studs come out just heat up evenly all around...it will fall right off in less than two minutes.....I have done this on many, many cars.
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