View Poll Results: VQ35DE ISSUES - Please place your poll
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POLL - If you have a VQ35DE please enter.
#202
Originally Posted by phatmax95
How are you guys getting an accurate reading on the POS dipstick?
Are you draining and measuring the oil? Or just relying on the dipstick?
Are you draining and measuring the oil? Or just relying on the dipstick?
#203
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (29)
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Kernersville, NC
Posts: 1,766
Well, did you get ALL the oil from the pan? There is a little bit usually still in there. Also, did you drain all the old oil from the filter? What about the oil that gets soaked into the filter element? Got any pics of the catch can?
#204
Originally Posted by phatmax95
Well, did you get ALL the oil from the pan? There is a little bit usually still in there. Also, did you drain all the old oil from the filter? What about the oil that gets soaked into the filter element? Got any pics of the catch can?
#205
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (29)
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Kernersville, NC
Posts: 1,766
The hotter it is the better it will flow out, but I am sure you knew that. Also, the 3.5 has a better oil pan, I think the drain plug was designed better than on the 4th gen. So your probably ok. But I do know that I was able to pour almost a entire quart into the oil filter.. Simply turning the filter upside down will not drain it all out.
#208
How weird. I just checked my oil today and was worried that I was down about 2/3 litres of oil?? I have 132000 Kms and this is the first time I noticed the oil reading to drop this badly. It's due for an oil change anyways and will have to monitor this to make sure it does not become problematic.
Oh yah, no mods or anything but "spirited" driving sometimes
Oh yah, no mods or anything but "spirited" driving sometimes
#209
Originally Posted by nk2k2
i left the pan open for like 20 mins and let it drain out as much as possible. the 2.5 is including oil in pan as well as the filter. i dont have any pics of the catch can setup but its very similars to THE LAWs setup. ill try to get some pics of the catch can up soon. is there a special way of getting "all" the oil out? i mean i know there a whole bunch stuck in the heads and oil passages and what not but is there a way to blow them out or get it it come out quick?
I also fill the filter up before I screw it on to possibly reduce any dry pumping time. I don't know if it helps, but it can't hurt.
#210
I have a VQ35DE, but it's not in the Maxima, but the 2005 G35. It doesn't burn any oil, but it has a slight valvetrain rattle, which is normal.
The VQ30DE in my 2000 Maxima has some sort of rattling noise from the timing chain area when stick my ear around there. This motor doesn't burn a drop of oil. After 4000 miles, the dip stick reading is at the fullest point. The manifold is also dry as bone with virtually no blowby. I haven't done a search yet, but is there a timing chain tensioner one can replace on the Maximas VQ30DE?
I also have M45 with the VK45DE, which design is based on the VQ35DE. That motor does burn oil, at around half quart a month. It's a very common trait of the motor. No rattling. It sounds absolutely perfect and almost silent at idle.
The VQ30DE in my 2000 Maxima has some sort of rattling noise from the timing chain area when stick my ear around there. This motor doesn't burn a drop of oil. After 4000 miles, the dip stick reading is at the fullest point. The manifold is also dry as bone with virtually no blowby. I haven't done a search yet, but is there a timing chain tensioner one can replace on the Maximas VQ30DE?
I also have M45 with the VK45DE, which design is based on the VQ35DE. That motor does burn oil, at around half quart a month. It's a very common trait of the motor. No rattling. It sounds absolutely perfect and almost silent at idle.
#211
^^^ my god man, you are a diehard nissan fan. yeah ive seen some people complain that the m45 burns oil. i was hoping that would be my next car too, i guess not. i dont think nissan will ever fix this problem. ohh and the comment about "blowing out the oil" by cranking the engine, yeah no thanks.
#212
Originally Posted by nk2k2
^^^ my god man, you are a diehard nissan fan. yeah ive seen some people complain that the m45 burns oil. i was hoping that would be my next car too, i guess not. i dont think nissan will ever fix this problem. ohh and the comment about "blowing out the oil" by cranking the engine, yeah no thanks.
j/k haha
#214
Originally Posted by Child_uv_KoRn
I haven't done it on the VQ, but on the ford V8s, I start the engine for a few seconds and it blows a lot more oil out into the pan (then it drains of course). If you're not too big of a wimp, try that :P
I also fill the filter up before I screw it on to possibly reduce any dry pumping time. I don't know if it helps, but it can't hurt.
I also fill the filter up before I screw it on to possibly reduce any dry pumping time. I don't know if it helps, but it can't hurt.
#215
Originally Posted by NisTech
so you run your engine and oil pump dry? That is the worst thing you can ever do to your engine. This is why synthetic oil is better in winter cause it flows at -48 degrees celsius. Most wear on your engine will occur in the first few seconds of each startup. And that's while having oil in the pan.
#216
QUick question, is it common to get about 1 second of the rattle/tick on cold starts? I get it for less then a second usually, only cold, no rattle at any other time. I thought it was just the lifters or something. Is this normal?
#218
Originally Posted by SLVRMAXX
It is possible that the rattling you hear is the precat and it increases exhaust backpressure which in turn will effect loosen the oil seals.
If it is, then that's what happened to me. Had to get an engine swap b/c of it (partially seized from no oil).
My cat was completely clogged with those worthless precats. Useless ****in ****, I swear. If I wanted somethin that would break and reduce performance, I'd install it myself. ****in engineers. Like anyone cares about or tests emissions when the exhaust/engine is cold.
#220
Here's the procedure from the factory service manual.
http://filesbox.info/211TimingChain.pdf
Password is fast
http://filesbox.info/211TimingChain.pdf
Password is fast
#221
nice, theres a cover for the tensioner, if i just replace that i should be ok. I think the tensioner is just a little weak, it only rattles for a second on cold starts. engine only has ~40k miles on it so i dont think the guides would be worn out by now. Im using a 0w30 (german castrol - gold) right now, some heavier oil (5w30) would probably help a bit too eh??? Damn timing chain
#223
Originally Posted by z32tt
I cant make any new threads i guess, since my account is so new. Can one of u guys be kind enough to post a new thread; make it a poll, questing is 'Do You experience cold start rattle?'' Thanks guys
#226
117,600 on my engine, no rattle and less than a quart down after 3000 miles. My 626 used more oil than that (1 quart per 2000-2500 miles). I'd say that is pretty typical oil consumption for an engine with more than 100k on it.
Of course, the owner's manual states that it is normal to add oil between oil changes...typical CYA statement.
Of course, the owner's manual states that it is normal to add oil between oil changes...typical CYA statement.
#229
On cold mornings, I start my car by reaching in through the driver's door (my head is completely outside the car) so it can start warming up while I put whatever I need for the day in my car. I am sure if my car had the start-up rattle, I'd hear it under those circumstances.
#230
I think there was a TSB for cold start up rattle, which does not fix the driving around clicking, rattle.
I use cruise control, and will often hear the rattle a bunch of times. So I'll tap the accel once and it'll usually go away.
I use cruise control, and will often hear the rattle a bunch of times. So I'll tap the accel once and it'll usually go away.
#234
My 02 is my fifth Maxima and my first 3.5.
It is also the first one to burn oil (starting at 75k miles) though my last one, a 92 5 spd, I gave away with 235k miles.
Oil use seems to have stopped lately using high mileage oil.
It is also the first one to burn oil (starting at 75k miles) though my last one, a 92 5 spd, I gave away with 235k miles.
Oil use seems to have stopped lately using high mileage oil.
#235
134k replaced two front cats and still here the rattling noise, only in low rpms and every cold start i could here the belts rattle for a min or 2 then it goes away, my oil is ok i usually always add a little to it before my time for the next oil change but nothing to crazy,
#238
No oil usage, just a slight rattle at start, but not if you depress the gas 3 or 4 times slowly with the ignition switch in the on position this eliminates the rattle and reduces the start rpm! 93K 2003 auto w I/H/E