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2k2/2k3 ingnition coils

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Old Jan 8, 2006 | 04:59 PM
  #1  
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2k2/2k3 ingnition coils

is it normalf or 2k2 coils to go bad and kick up a mil light? i thought this was a normal probem with 2k0.

my mil is on and i have multiple cylnder misfires on the obd... i am going to assume its the coils, but before i go out and buy 6pack... i want to know if this is common in our cars..

whats a fool proof way to be certain that its the coils and not something else.

?
Old Jan 8, 2006 | 05:02 PM
  #2  
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Fool proof way = test the coils resistance.

Is it missing badly?

steven88 had a similar problem IIRC.. PM him.
Old Jan 8, 2006 | 05:08 PM
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check the coils individually. remove your engine cover to access number 2, 4, and 6. with the car running disconnect each one individually and see iff engine looses power its very noticable. if your motor loses power that means that your coil to that cylinder is good. if nothing happens thats when you know its bad. because its not sending a signal to begin with. in order to check the rears youll have to swap the fronts with rears and test them again. My #6 coil went out yesterday and thats how i tested them. whatever you do do not take out the coil with the car running you could shock the crap out of yourself.
Old Jan 8, 2006 | 05:09 PM
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try using a coil from a cylinder that is misfiring and switch it with a cylinder thats good. then check and see if the misfire traveled along with the coil. dunno if that yould work but it sounds good.
Old Jan 8, 2006 | 05:13 PM
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You 2 repeated each other in different ways.
Old Jan 8, 2006 | 05:22 PM
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no, he was saying leave it off, im sayin switch it to see if you get the misfire in another cylinder. his way if theres something wrong other than the coil it could be the same and hell think its a coil but its not.
Old Jan 8, 2006 | 05:25 PM
  #7  
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Originally Posted by k2max_driver
with the car running disconnect each one
Originally Posted by Hoooper
no, he was saying leave it off
True... I know what you mean, but his (k2max)method is better though..

Unplug/replug each and see if the miss gets worse.

Your method might get him killed:
Old Jan 8, 2006 | 05:27 PM
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my way is to check the coils, i just explained alot more and thought of when you have to check the rears. you have to switch them because then you can't access them with the intake manifold on
Old Jan 8, 2006 | 05:29 PM
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ive been shocked by coils before and it is not fun. i couldnt move my arm for about a minute last time. be careful thats why i said don't remove the coils if the cars running just unplug
Old Jan 8, 2006 | 05:30 PM
  #10  
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i never said do it with the car running, fat shock if you dont do it right (not likely, but possible especially if there really is something wrong)
Old Jan 8, 2006 | 05:32 PM
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LOL...you got shocked by the coilpack?
Old Jan 8, 2006 | 05:46 PM
  #12  
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not me. i been shocked through a distributor cap on a new mallory distributor but i dont mess with the new coils when theyre in action...60k plus volts scares me.
Old Jan 11, 2006 | 05:38 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by k2max_driver
check the coils individually. remove your engine cover to access number 2, 4, and 6. with the car running disconnect each one individually and see iff engine looses power its very noticable. if your motor loses power that means that your coil to that cylinder is good. if nothing happens thats when you know its bad. because its not sending a signal to begin with. in order to check the rears youll have to swap the fronts with rears and test them again. My #6 coil went out yesterday and thats how i tested them. whatever you do do not take out the coil with the car running you could shock the crap out of yourself.

My 3 Fronts Work.

I just have now find time to swap the rear's with the front.

The ones in the back are a ***** to get to.

I will be doing that this weekend :-)
Old Jan 11, 2006 | 05:40 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by k2max_driver
my way is to check the coils, i just explained alot more and thought of when you have to check the rears. you have to switch them because then you can't access them with the intake manifold on

It is better to remove the intake manifold or just the last housing connecting to the main piece?

I know you can remove 1 or maybe with the intake manifold on, but there is a 3rd one that is just imposibile to get to.
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