Any other grounding kit install guides besides irish's?

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Jan 15, 2006 | 10:24 AM
  #1  
Does anyone know of any other install guide for grounding kits for a 5.5gen besides the one on irish's cardomain? Thanks
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Jan 15, 2006 | 10:30 AM
  #2  
oh, I see how it is....mine's not good enough for you
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Jan 15, 2006 | 10:32 AM
  #3  
Quote: oh, I see how it is....mine's not good enough for you
LOL no, I was looking for a 5.5 gen specific guide although I know the ground points are similar.
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Jan 15, 2006 | 10:43 AM
  #4  
Matt Blehm. He sells kits with instructions.
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Jan 15, 2006 | 10:47 AM
  #5  
I have a kit (not from Matt), and would like a install guide with pics.
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Jan 15, 2006 | 05:11 PM
  #6  
check vqpower.com 4th gen DIY section.
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Jan 15, 2006 | 05:23 PM
  #7  
check 4th gen DIY for 5.5 gen specific info?
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Jan 15, 2006 | 05:26 PM
  #8  
how many wires do you have? I have 4...and I can try to help out
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Jan 15, 2006 | 05:35 PM
  #9  
hey irish...you didnt use this kind of grounding kit correct?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/UNIVE...30183823QQrdZ1

is there any difference between what you used and this type?...im pretty sure it just the gauge of the wires..and the price..but ultimatley no?
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Jan 15, 2006 | 05:35 PM
  #10  
you didnt notice any power gains on the butt dyno did you...or DID you?
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Jan 15, 2006 | 06:31 PM
  #11  
Quote: how many wires do you have? I have 4...and I can try to help out
7 ....and all of the wires go to the negative terminal since I bought a universal one off eBay.
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Jan 15, 2006 | 07:09 PM
  #12  
Quote: 7 ....and all of the wires go to the negative terminal since I bought a universal one off eBay.
lol...ic...umm....that will be kinda hard since yours is universal...sorry
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Jan 15, 2006 | 07:26 PM
  #13  
Quote: is there any difference between what you used and this type?...im pretty sure it just the gauge of the wires..and the price..but ultimatley no?
The most important is the location of grounding points. The second most important thing is how you installed it. Everything else makes virtually no difference IMO.
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Jan 15, 2006 | 07:58 PM
  #14  
So I know all the wires go to the negative terminal, anyone with pics of the points on the car itself? Like headlight, alternator, chassis....etc. My kit is the same as the one panda posted.
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Jan 15, 2006 | 09:10 PM
  #15  
Here a link to a thread discussing grounding points.

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....ing+kit+points
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Jan 16, 2006 | 12:34 PM
  #16  
here is a guide i have on my website. using generic hardware found in any hardware store and using ring terminals from car audio department:
http://crimsonshift.com/maxima/hypergrounding_kit.ppt
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Jan 16, 2006 | 12:55 PM
  #17  
Quote: here is a guide i have on my website. using generic hardware found in any hardware store and using ring terminals from car audio department:
http://crimsonshift.com/maxima/hypergrounding_kit.ppt
Exactly what I need!!! Thanks so much chr0nos. But one thing, all of the grouding points you listed in the Powerpoint, can I connect all the points to the negative terminal without lost effect? What I mean is, instead of...example your connect point 2 to point 3, can I do point 2>neg. battery, point 3>neg. battery? Thanks again!
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Jan 20, 2006 | 05:40 PM
  #18  
Well, I installed the kit today following chr0nos' instructions. Except, for two of the wires I did not connect to the negative terminal of the battery. Instead, I connected it to the negative CABLE that eventually runs to the battery. I figure this way, the two wires are still grounded to the - terminal, but also no power will circulate when I remove the cable. The ground point of that cable is behind the battery bolted to the chassis. Pic below:



So is this connection OK? I thought that if the two wires were connected directly to the terminal, I'll have some current running through the car even if I removed the ngative wire.

Also, immediate impression of the kit installed is the tranny shifts smoother, and the engine *seems* to start up easier too.
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Jan 20, 2006 | 05:46 PM
  #19  
Quote: The most important is the location of grounding points. The second most important thing is how you installed it. Everything else makes virtually no difference IMO.


we have a winner.
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Jan 20, 2006 | 05:47 PM
  #20  
Quote: I thought that if the two wires were connected directly to the terminal, I'll have some current running through the car even if I removed the ngative wire.
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Jan 20, 2006 | 05:49 PM
  #21  
Quote:
Well think about it, with the 7 wire grounding kit, if I left I two wires to the negative terminal, even if I was to remove the negative cable, won't there still be a complete circuit?

Edit: I remember a thread about someone whose neg. cable was cut due to thieves? And he was able to still start the car since his grounding kit I guess took over the duty of the negative cable as the wires ended to the terminal.
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Jan 20, 2006 | 06:15 PM
  #22  
Oh, I see what you're saying. Ya, if you got two cables coming to your negative terminal you have to disconnect both of them. However, the way most people do that, is they attach the original cable and the new cable together to the same clamp, so when you disconnect the clamp you disconnect both cables from the battery.
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Jan 20, 2006 | 06:19 PM
  #23  
Quote: Oh, I see what you're saying. Ya, if you got two cables coming to your negative terminal you have to disconnect both of them. However, the way most people do that, is they attach the original cable and the new cable together to the same clamp, so when you disconnect the clamp you disconnect both cables from the battery.
Ahh, that makes sense. And does anyone what ground #3 is int he Powerpoint? I wasn't able to get to that point as it was too difficult to reach.
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Jan 20, 2006 | 06:35 PM
  #24  
Quote: Ahh, that makes sense. And does anyone what ground #3 is int he Powerpoint? I wasn't able to get to that point as it was too difficult to reach.
And I am sure that I will recieve a good bit of scorn for this comment, but the whole theoretical purpose of a grounding kit is to serve as a pseudo electron capacitor ergo the beginning and end points serve as the most critical points notwithstanding that the total length of the "circut" is as large as could be.

SO, what I'm getting at is, the longer length of the wire, the more effective the kit will be...although a 1/0AWG from the(-) battery terminal to the chassis would work equally as well for 1/10 of the price.
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Jan 20, 2006 | 06:51 PM
  #25  
Quote: SO, what I'm getting at is, the longer length of the wire, the more effective the kit will be...although a 1/0AWG from the(-) battery terminal to the chassis would work equally as well for 1/10 of the price.
Want to make me one, Metal? I'l reimburse you for the trouble and material . Also, from the negative terminal to which chassis ground point?
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Jan 20, 2006 | 06:55 PM
  #26  
Quote: And I am sure that I will recieve a good bit of scorn for this comment, but the whole theoretical purpose of a grounding kit is to serve as a pseudo electron capacitor ergo the beginning and end points serve as the most critical points notwithstanding that the total length of the "circut" is as large as could be.

SO, what I'm getting at is, the longer length of the wire, the more effective the kit will be...although a 1/0AWG from the(-) battery terminal to the chassis would work equally as well for 1/10 of the price.
Metal, I'm not really getting it. Seems like you are talking about something interesting but what exactly?
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Jan 21, 2006 | 11:54 AM
  #27  
Here's mine.

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Jan 21, 2006 | 12:25 PM
  #28  
I needs to gets me one of the those things. What are they called again? (that blue box in front of the battery)
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Jan 21, 2006 | 12:29 PM
  #29  
It's part of the grounding kit. All those wire alone models are worthless, IMO. I did the standard grounding kit and ended up switching it out for this nice piece of equipment. It works great.
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Jan 21, 2006 | 02:50 PM
  #30  
Quote: I needs to gets me one of the those things. What are they called again? (that blue box in front of the battery)
Voltage stabilizer
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Jan 21, 2006 | 03:06 PM
  #31  
Check this great articles on grounding systems with reviews and dyno graphs: http://www.tprmag.com/issue/8/8_elec_stab.shtml
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