Does anyone know of any other install guide for grounding kits for a 5.5gen besides the one on irish's cardomain? Thanks
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LOL no, I was looking for a 5.5 gen specific guide although I know the ground points are similar.Originally Posted by irish44j
oh, I see how it is....mine's not good enough for you
Senior Member
hey irish...you didnt use this kind of grounding kit correct?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/UNIVE...30183823QQrdZ1
is there any difference between what you used and this type?...im pretty sure it just the gauge of the wires..and the price..but ultimatley no?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/UNIVE...30183823QQrdZ1
is there any difference between what you used and this type?...im pretty sure it just the gauge of the wires..and the price..but ultimatley no?
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7 Originally Posted by steven88
how many wires do you have? I have 4...and I can try to help out
....and all of the wires go to the negative terminal since I bought a universal one off eBay.Quote:
....and all of the wires go to the negative terminal since I bought a universal one off eBay.
lol...ic...umm....that will be kinda hard since yours is universal...sorryOriginally Posted by n3985
7
....and all of the wires go to the negative terminal since I bought a universal one off eBay.
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The most important is the location of grounding points. The second most important thing is how you installed it. Everything else makes virtually no difference IMO.Originally Posted by PandaXpress
is there any difference between what you used and this type?...im pretty sure it just the gauge of the wires..and the price..but ultimatley no?
So I know all the wires go to the negative terminal, anyone with pics of the points on the car itself? Like headlight, alternator, chassis....etc. My kit is the same as the one panda posted.
Here a link to a thread discussing grounding points.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....ing+kit+points
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....ing+kit+points
here is a guide i have on my website. using generic hardware found in any hardware store and using ring terminals from car audio department:
http://crimsonshift.com/maxima/hypergrounding_kit.ppt
http://crimsonshift.com/maxima/hypergrounding_kit.ppt
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http://crimsonshift.com/maxima/hypergrounding_kit.ppt
Exactly what I need!!! Thanks so much chr0nos. But one thing, all of the grouding points you listed in the Powerpoint, can I connect all the points to the negative terminal without lost effect? What I mean is, instead of...example your connect point 2 to point 3, can I do point 2>neg. battery, point 3>neg. battery? Thanks again!Originally Posted by chr0nos
here is a guide i have on my website. using generic hardware found in any hardware store and using ring terminals from car audio department:http://crimsonshift.com/maxima/hypergrounding_kit.ppt
Well, I installed the kit today following chr0nos' instructions. Except, for two of the wires I did not connect to the negative terminal of the battery. Instead, I connected it to the negative CABLE that eventually runs to the battery. I figure this way, the two wires are still grounded to the - terminal, but also no power will circulate when I remove the cable. The ground point of that cable is behind the battery bolted to the chassis. Pic below:

So is this connection OK? I thought that if the two wires were connected directly to the terminal, I'll have some current running through the car even if I removed the ngative wire.
Also, immediate impression of the kit installed is the tranny shifts smoother, and the engine *seems* to start up easier too.

So is this connection OK? I thought that if the two wires were connected directly to the terminal, I'll have some current running through the car even if I removed the ngative wire.
Also, immediate impression of the kit installed is the tranny shifts smoother, and the engine *seems* to start up easier too.

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Originally Posted by DrKlop
The most important is the location of grounding points. The second most important thing is how you installed it. Everything else makes virtually no difference IMO.

we have a winner.
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Originally Posted by n3985
I thought that if the two wires were connected directly to the terminal, I'll have some current running through the car even if I removed the ngative wire.

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Well think about it, with the 7 wire grounding kit, if I left I two wires to the negative terminal, even if I was to remove the negative cable, won't there still be a complete circuit?Originally Posted by DrKlop
Edit: I remember a thread about someone whose neg. cable was cut due to thieves? And he was able to still start the car since his grounding kit I guess took over the duty of the negative cable as the wires ended to the terminal.
Oh, I see what you're saying. Ya, if you got two cables coming to your negative terminal you have to disconnect both of them. However, the way most people do that, is they attach the original cable and the new cable together to the same clamp, so when you disconnect the clamp you disconnect both cables from the battery.
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Ahh, that makes sense. And does anyone what ground #3 is int he Powerpoint? I wasn't able to get to that point as it was too difficult to reach.Originally Posted by DrKlop
Oh, I see what you're saying. Ya, if you got two cables coming to your negative terminal you have to disconnect both of them. However, the way most people do that, is they attach the original cable and the new cable together to the same clamp, so when you disconnect the clamp you disconnect both cables from the battery.
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And I am sure that I will recieve a good bit of scorn for this comment, but the whole theoretical purpose of a grounding kit is to serve as a pseudo electron capacitor ergo the beginning and end points serve as the most critical points notwithstanding that the total length of the "circut" is as large as could be.Originally Posted by n3985
Ahh, that makes sense. And does anyone what ground #3 is int he Powerpoint? I wasn't able to get to that point as it was too difficult to reach.
SO, what I'm getting at is, the longer length of the wire, the more effective the kit will be...although a 1/0AWG from the(-) battery terminal to the chassis would work equally as well for 1/10 of the price.
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Want to make me one, Metal? I'l reimburse you for the trouble and material Originally Posted by Metal Maxima
SO, what I'm getting at is, the longer length of the wire, the more effective the kit will be...although a 1/0AWG from the(-) battery terminal to the chassis would work equally as well for 1/10 of the price.
. Also, from the negative terminal to which chassis ground point?Quote:
SO, what I'm getting at is, the longer length of the wire, the more effective the kit will be...although a 1/0AWG from the(-) battery terminal to the chassis would work equally as well for 1/10 of the price.
Metal, I'm not really getting it. Seems like you are talking about something interesting but what exactly?Originally Posted by Metal Maxima
And I am sure that I will recieve a good bit of scorn for this comment, but the whole theoretical purpose of a grounding kit is to serve as a pseudo electron capacitor ergo the beginning and end points serve as the most critical points notwithstanding that the total length of the "circut" is as large as could be.SO, what I'm getting at is, the longer length of the wire, the more effective the kit will be...although a 1/0AWG from the(-) battery terminal to the chassis would work equally as well for 1/10 of the price.
Senior Member
I needs to gets me one of the those things. What are they called again? (that blue box in front of the battery)
It's part of the grounding kit. All those wire alone models are worthless, IMO. I did the standard grounding kit and ended up switching it out for this nice piece of equipment. It works great.
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Voltage stabilizerOriginally Posted by rogertight
I needs to gets me one of the those things. What are they called again? (that blue box in front of the battery)
Check this great articles on grounding systems with reviews and dyno graphs: http://www.tprmag.com/issue/8/8_elec_stab.shtml
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