New lower balljoints+tie rod ends+ES bushings+camber
#1
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Burke, VA
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New lower balljoints+tie rod ends+ES bushings+camber
got a bit of work done today on my day off....
- installed new lower control arms with Energy Suspension poly bushings (and obviously new lower balljoints)
- installed new tie rod ends
- changed camber to -1.5 degrees.
- replaced all of the bush pin bolts, the old ones threads were quite rusty anyhow.
notes:
- Stupid Nissan design requires the hub to be pulled to get to the balljoint nut (at least using a socket) - otherwise you can use a open-ended wrench, which is sure to strip the shallow nut. Loosening the hub nut was alot easier with the impact![Wink](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
- My old balljoints had quite a bit of play in them and were not "firm" at all
- Same with the old tie rod ends....tons of play
- an impact is a must....even a big breaker bar is difficult to loosen the bush pin bolts and rear LCA bolts...
- one of the rear LCA bolts was stripped (thread). Of course, no local Nissan dealer has them. In the meantine, I used one of the longer bush pin bolts leftover, which should work until I get a new rear LCA bolt. Had to call DaveB!
thoughts:
- did this right at 100K miles....
- really tightened up the front of the car...no more vibration/rattle over bumps and that "sloppy feel" which I attributed to worn bushings and balljoints.
- camber allows harder cornering, though I haven't yet gotten an alignment (tomorrow), so the toe is in a bit on both wheels right now due to the increased negative camber
- steering input is more precise.
- increased understeer a bit due to stiffer/new bushings..
that is all....just saying that for a maxima with 100K miles, it is worthwhile to do the bushings and balljoints, no doubt about it
- installed new lower control arms with Energy Suspension poly bushings (and obviously new lower balljoints)
- installed new tie rod ends
- changed camber to -1.5 degrees.
- replaced all of the bush pin bolts, the old ones threads were quite rusty anyhow.
notes:
- Stupid Nissan design requires the hub to be pulled to get to the balljoint nut (at least using a socket) - otherwise you can use a open-ended wrench, which is sure to strip the shallow nut. Loosening the hub nut was alot easier with the impact
![Wink](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
- My old balljoints had quite a bit of play in them and were not "firm" at all
- Same with the old tie rod ends....tons of play
- an impact is a must....even a big breaker bar is difficult to loosen the bush pin bolts and rear LCA bolts...
- one of the rear LCA bolts was stripped (thread). Of course, no local Nissan dealer has them. In the meantine, I used one of the longer bush pin bolts leftover, which should work until I get a new rear LCA bolt. Had to call DaveB!
thoughts:
- did this right at 100K miles....
- really tightened up the front of the car...no more vibration/rattle over bumps and that "sloppy feel" which I attributed to worn bushings and balljoints.
- camber allows harder cornering, though I haven't yet gotten an alignment (tomorrow), so the toe is in a bit on both wheels right now due to the increased negative camber
- steering input is more precise.
- increased understeer a bit due to stiffer/new bushings..
that is all....just saying that for a maxima with 100K miles, it is worthwhile to do the bushings and balljoints, no doubt about it
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#4
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Burke, VA
Posts: 27,289
Originally Posted by Whtmax'01
What was the cost of all the parts?
The stillen camber plates are about $400 if you can find them anywhere....I got a good deal
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Originally Posted by Kevlo911
Did you get the balljoints pressed in or did you use the Autozone press.
#8
im just a bout to order all those parts for my car. granted i dont have as many miles as u but im planning my ultimate suspension setup. now that ur done with the front, u plan on doing anything to update ur rearend? im gonna tackle everyhting all at once, front back and subframe hopefully. i figure ordering everything from dave b will be the best. correct me if im wrong.
#10
Don't buy parts from " Autopartsonlinecanada.com ", I bought a control arm with ball joint for $74 CAD, but they send me a defective part( ball joint rubber cover has tear ), and it will take long long time to retour, I am still waitting for a Return Authorization Number to return the part, I received part two weeks ago. after I return the part , minimum 4 weeks to get $ back.
#11
hey Irish, did you have to knock the axle out of the hub when you removed axle nut? If you did, was it easy? Cause I can take the axle nut off very easy with an impact, but I can't for some reason to hammer the axle out of the hub. I Don't want to hammer it any harder, cause if might damage something..?
Any good easy way around this? thanks.
Any good easy way around this? thanks.
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