got a bit of work done today on my day off....

- installed new lower control arms with Energy Suspension poly bushings (and obviously new lower balljoints)
- installed new tie rod ends
- changed camber to -1.5 degrees.
- replaced all of the bush pin bolts, the old ones threads were quite rusty anyhow.


notes:
- Stupid Nissan design requires the hub to be pulled to get to the balljoint nut (at least using a socket) - otherwise you can use a open-ended wrench, which is sure to strip the shallow nut. Loosening the hub nut was alot easier with the impact
- My old balljoints had quite a bit of play in them and were not "firm" at all
- Same with the old tie rod ends....tons of play
- an impact is a must....even a big breaker bar is difficult to loosen the bush pin bolts and rear LCA bolts...
- one of the rear LCA bolts was stripped (thread). Of course, no local Nissan dealer has them. In the meantine, I used one of the longer bush pin bolts leftover, which should work until I get a new rear LCA bolt. Had to call DaveB!

thoughts:
- did this right at 100K miles....
- really tightened up the front of the car...no more vibration/rattle over bumps and that "sloppy feel" which I attributed to worn bushings and balljoints.
- camber allows harder cornering, though I haven't yet gotten an alignment (tomorrow), so the toe is in a bit on both wheels right now due to the increased negative camber
- steering input is more precise.
- increased understeer a bit due to stiffer/new bushings..

that is all....just saying that for a maxima with 100K miles, it is worthwhile to do the bushings and balljoints, no doubt about it

 

What was the cost of all the parts?

 

Did you get the balljoints pressed in or did you use the Autozone press.

 

hmm...don't really recall. I bought the LCA's off an org'er (new) for about $150 for the pair (they're about $100 each at a dealer, IIRC). The ES bushings were about $30, the tie rod ends were about $30 each from DaveB. I've had this stuff sitting around all winter, so don't quote me on the prices.

The stillen camber plates are about $400 if you can find them anywhere....I got a good deal


The lower balljoint cannot be pressed in or out...it is PART of the LCA assembly. You have to replace the entire LCA to replace it. Unless you meant the bushings...in which case, I did them at home, which I will NEVER do again. Took many hours and many muscle strains to get the old ones out.

 

Good works man, any pics to share ?

 

Just look at your car, and you'll see what mine looks like...except my LCA and tie rod ends are clean and new

 

The master suspension mechanic strikes yet again!

Good info, Josh. Posts like this let me know what I should be looking to replace at 100k.

 

im just a bout to order all those parts for my car. granted i dont have as many miles as u but im planning my ultimate suspension setup. now that ur done with the front, u plan on doing anything to update ur rearend? im gonna tackle everyhting all at once, front back and subframe hopefully. i figure ordering everything from dave b will be the best. correct me if im wrong.

 

This is something I'll have to look into.

 

Don't buy parts from " Autopartsonlinecanada.com ", I bought a control arm with ball joint for $74 CAD, but they send me a defective part( ball joint rubber cover has tear ), and it will take long long time to retour, I am still waitting for a Return Authorization Number to return the part, I received part two weeks ago. after I return the part , minimum 4 weeks to get $ back.

 

hey Irish, did you have to knock the axle out of the hub when you removed axle nut? If you did, was it easy? Cause I can take the axle nut off very easy with an impact, but I can't for some reason to hammer the axle out of the hub. I Don't want to hammer it any harder, cause if might damage something..?

Any good easy way around this? thanks.