Blessed Hammer

iTrader: (1)

I have two symptoms. The first is that there is a noticeable scraping/grinding sound from the front passenger tire. I just had my brakes replaced so they are like new. The sound occurs when first accelerating and when turning.

Next symptom, and I've had this for a while, is that the car shudders as I drive. On the highway the steering wheel shudders and when the brakes are applied the steering wheel shudders still.

When I changed my brakes I noticed that even when the lug nuts were on tight, the tire was pretty wobbly. Is this a wheel bearing issue??? If it is, how hard is this to fix on my own?

Thanks in advance.

BLUEMAX01SE

It's the wheel bearing if you constantly get that grinding/ scraping noise. But I had the wobbly wheel problem and it turned out to be the axle nut was loose a little. Tightened up the axle nut and no problem since. Wheel bearing may be a PITA to fix on your own as you have to disassemble the wheel hub and axle I believe! I noticed you have the same year Max as me and I have had a loose axle nut twice before, at 45k miles and 75k miles and some one else with an AE Max like mine also had the same issue on the same wheel, front passenger. We were beginning to think it may be a defect. I'm still not sure what would cause an axle nut to become loose though. Good luck , and hope this info is helpful!

super6

iTrader: (5)

also, check the dust/heat shild behind the rotors, that will cause a grinding kind of noise, especially when turning. i had that n it drove ne crazy.

even if they appear not to touch the rotor, try to pry then back another 1 or 2 mm.

Blessed Hammer

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the help guys. I didn't even think to look at the dust shield, but I'll take a look at it now. Bluemax01se, I'm starting to think it's a combination of the wheel bearing and the axle nut! How does one tighten the axle nut, though. It looks so oversized that it doesn't seem possible to tighten with home garage tools?!?! Thanks again.

Metal Maxima

iTrader: (30)

Guys, questions about checking for a bad bearing - IIRC, you check for a bad bearing by lifting the car up and seeing if the wheel turns on its own...if it does, then it is bad, correct?

Dying to know, my steering wheel shakes like a **** at higher speeds.

MIXXMAX

iTrader: (1)

No, jack up the car and grab the wheel at 12 and 6 o'clock positions. Then try to "rock" the tire back and forth. If there is play, then the bearings are bad. If no play, then they are still good.

BLUEMAX01SE

To tighten the axle nut, you will most likely need an airgun with a big enough socket. Using a wrench may work but I would trust the airgun! Take it to your local shop if you are close with any of the mechanics and just ask them if they can check that out for you.

irish44j

iTrader: (38)

I'm going to disagree here. NEVER IMPACT ANYTHING "ON". Use a torque wrench set to the correct torque setting. For the main axle nut, you might have to have a shop do it, as most people's "home workshops" don't have a torque wrench of that size. But it is never a good idea to use an air gun/impact wrench to tighten bolts.

Your case sounds like a couple of things:

1. if you just had the brakes done, there is a 99% chance that the noise is the dust shield rubbing....it's usually the bottom of the dust shield that rubs - it gets bent in VERY easily, and when installing brake pads, it's a place that most people accidentally push in while undoing caliper bolts (seen this happen on many, many maximas)

2. the wobble could be many things - worn bearing, worn tie rod ends, unbalanced wheels/tires, or brake issues. If they turned your rotors when you had the brakes done, you can probably rule that out.

sarmstrong

Are bearings expensive to replace at a local mechanic?

futbolking02

does the powertrain warranty cover wheel bearings? Thx in advance

Blessed Hammer

iTrader: (1)

Well, I jacked up my car and inspected the dust shield, and it turns out that that wasn't the problem. I figured it was probably the axle nut or the bearing so I took it to a local shop that I trust maybe to get the axle nut tightened for free. They said it was the bearing and that it would cost $200 plus . I have no choice at this point, so I left it there to be done. Anybody else replace their bearing at a shop... and for how much????

NisMoN00B

iTrader: (2)

$200 seems too steep just for a wheel bearing replacement. I had my wheel bearing, tie rods, and wheel hub replaced a while ago, I provided the wheel bearing and hub and the dealer provided the tie rods. In total, it cost me around $150 + tax and the dealer threw in a free alignment and wheel balancing/rotation.

Blessed Hammer

iTrader: (1)

I would've probably done the same thing (buy the parts and take them to the shop), but I really couldn't afford to be without my car for another week or two (waiting for the parts to arrive). Just curious, where did you buy the bearing and hub and for how much?

Also, I live in New York, so maybe that could explain the elevated cost?!?!

SEturner

I was just quoted $84 for the bearing and $149 for the hub plus 2 hrs labor at the Nissan dealer totaling $350/bearing only $500/bearing,hub (same labor either way)
I got a quote from an independent of 3hrs labor at lower rate equaling same overall cost.

BigBadPooH

I have a bad bearing too I believe, I jacked up the car and there was very slight play when I held it during the 12 and 6o 'clock position. There is also a slight grinding/rubbing sound coming from the passenger side. I was quoted at $280 for the job, just for the wheel bearing. Thought that was a little ridiculous just for a wheel bearing.

MIXXMAX

iTrader: (1)

The reason why the quotes are high for wheel bearing replacement is the labor involved. It's not an hour or less job. It's at least 2hrs or so. The whole hub has to be taken out as well as the brakes, calipers, etc. Also, once the job is done, you must get an alignment. So, if you want it done right, expect the time and labor involved.

Blessed Hammer

iTrader: (1)

Just got the car back from the shop. Paid 220 for the bearing and 150 for the hub... The grinding noise is gone for now. Have to take it on the highway to see if the steering wheel pulsates at all.

xTeCaOx

damn i just bought all that for my car too......i waited to fix the bearing and had to get the hub as well but paid 54 for bearing and 98 for hub....... but paying mechanic 210 for the work but he is also doing both front cv boots as well as breaks............

reflectionz

that could be your axl shaft i believe.....