So I'm thinking of doing the retro for the projectors but i don't want to kill my hids when i flash my beams at some idiot so....... Would tapping the positive or negative of the high beam with the low beam let the low beams stay on? could this werk wit fogs too?

 

In theory if you run power to your lows thru your high beams then there will be power at the lows as well....However two things to remember.

The most obvious is that since you have power going from your high to lows the circuit will also be complete from low to high. Basically your highs wil be on all the time.

The second is to remember that the manufacturer wants to obviously save money every way possible and installs the largest gauge possible (Larger gauge=smaller diameter) going to the lights. If you run the highs/lows in parallel then you will be doubling up the ampreage and potentially popping fuses and/or burning the wires up. If you run the lights in series both lights will work but will be dim. Remember RxA=P. When you add resistance you cut down on amps.

You could leave it as it is and add a parallel circuit. (Connect power to the fogs and lows from the high power before the power reaches the bulb) Just add a switch or relay inside the car for you to complete the circuit only when you wanted fogs/brights/lows.

Also remember you will be exceeding the amount of current going thru that wire than the manufacturer ever planned and it could damage components in the circuit or the wire itself... IF our system is set up to have the ecu read the switch then activate the headlights you will also have more current than the ecu is set up for and could potentially blow the ecu.. If our system is set-up to run the current thru the switch then you could fry the switch.

 

If you are going to do a retro, build a wire harness to power the ballasts, dont use stock headlight wiring, use the diagrams in the link below to construct your harness. it will allow you to only use high beams with flash to pass, but also allow the low beam to stay on when switched to high beams.

http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=7857

 

where does the stock wires connect to in the switch ground diagram?

i think once i know where your putting in the stock wires it would make a lot more sense to me

and so if you want the fogs to stay on then you would need 3 relays?

damn i'm so confused by the diagram

 

run a diode from the high beam to the low beam before the relays

 

alright, use this diagram, it has the relay terminals numbered and should make things a little simpler to wire up. on the ebay projector housings once you remove the old halogen projector you are going to have two wire inside the housing that used to power the H3 bulb:
Black wire = positive
white wite = negative

On the passenger side just get rid of them and save only the wires needed for high beam. on the drivers side, what i usualy do is pull the white wire through the rubber grommet and then run the black wire through the hole left by the white, wire. so there is now a positive and negative lead outside the housing (if that doesnt make sense it will w/ the lights open and front of you).

those two leads will be used to trigger the harness
black to terminal 85 on R1 & 85 on R2
white to terminal 86 on R1 and 86/87 on R2

i use weather pack connectors on those leads, so the harness isnt directly hardwired to the drivers light, and can be disconnected easily

 

you dont need three relays for foglights to stay on as well, just do the foglight only mod and you should be all set