Got the 6th gen rotors and calipers in the mail today. Wow these things are beefy in comparison to the 5.5 gen equipment. The delivery guy asked me if they were going on a truck. LoL







Got the rotors for 25$ each and the calipers for 50$ each.

They look a little ragged right now but my buddy has a media blaster with glass bead in it which should make these babys look brand new.

I also got the Hawk HPS pads in the mail today. Look at the size difference between the front 6th gen pads and the rear 5.5 gen pads




I was told these will fit behind the I35 sport rims, and the 5.5 gen SE rims. Is that correct?

ALso after I hook up the new calipers and the SS brake lines I feed the brake fluid into the reservior, close the resivior, open the bleeder screw of the calpier and then pump the brakes a few times, then hold the brake pedal down untill the other person has closed the bleeder screw let the brake pedal up, feed more fluid into the reservior, close the resivior push the brake pedal all the way in open the bleeder screw pump the brakes a few more times hold the brake pedal in and tighten the bleeder screw back up and repeat the process right?

Now do I do that process while the caliper is sitting on the new rotor, will the caliper clamp down on the rotor, should I do the bleeding with a C clamp on the caliper before the new rotor is in there?


I wish there was a write up for this. I am still waiting on the SS lines, the brake fluid, the caliper paint and decals, but once that stuff gets here I will be doing the brakes ASAP. My pads are completly shot right now, which seems a little strange as they were replaced only 15k miles ago.

 

with the bleeding, start with the caliper farthest from the master cylinder and work ur way closer. least thats from waht i was told, i dont know if this is true but i was told to do this with the car in acc.

id do it enough to get all that old fluid out, i know ur cars not that old, but might as well wheile ur in there.

no ss lines?

 

For me bleeding brakes has always been a 2 person job.. Never dealt with speed bleeders or anything like that... Pay the kid across the street to help you.

Your C-clampmethod isn't clear to me and seems like a bad idea.. It's as easy as pie.. dont make it more difficult than it has to be.

 

well I am putting Stainless steel lines in there so once I take the oem rubber lines off all the old brake fluid is going to be drained completly out of the system. All I have questions about really is getting the fluid back in the system. I know I have to use a C clamp on the calipers to compress them a little bit so they will fit on the rotors, but do I bleed the brakes when the new calipers are on the new rotors or before that while the caliper is still off the rotor and the C clamp is compressing the piston in the caliper

 

I will be using 2 people, the part about the c clamp I think I explained a little better one post up.

 

how much do those weigh?

 

Stop being cheap and go out and buy the piston compression tool. You can get it at Pep Boys for $7 and is worth every penny for brake jobs.

 

can't wait to see these things after they get blasted!

 

A $hlT load.. Unsprung weight FTL but at least it will stop a lot better.

Also I thought everyone used a C clamp thats all I've ever heard of using.

I will post pics after they are blasted.


Also again can someone confirm they will fit under stock 5.5 gen SE wheels. And can someone also answer my question about when I'm supposed to bleed the brakes, while the C clamp is on or after when the caliper is on the rotor.

 

Nice

Would you mind if i ask you a favor? Would you kindly measure the width of the caliper as well as the radius from the center of the rotor to the tip of the head of the caliper? I'm hoping to get actual measurements to see if it will fit my set-up.

Thanks!

 

Thank you!!

~22lbs/rotor

 

I am planning on media blasting the calipers too but there are some rubber and plastic parts on the calipers I am worried I am going to damage.


Btw to the person who wanted me to take some measurements I can measure the width of the caliper, but I cant really acuratly measure the distance from the center of the rotor to the tip of the head of the caliper untill its on the car where its position is fixed.

 

The key when you're doing a brake job is that you have two people, then, with the caliper ON the brake disc and screwed in. Pump the brakes with the valve open a few times and then on the last pump have the person close the valve while you're pressing down on the brake, it has to be closed midstream. I've done too many brake jobs, and one thing i've learned is always ALWAYS grease your caliper slides. Its worth it for you especially because of the way those calipers look, they're new but they have been obviously sitting in the open air and water. Also, if the caliper slides rubber...thingy...(don't knwo the exact term for it but its like a cap) is all nasty, i suggest you clean it in some water and grease it as well. If its cut, or sliced open, just replace it. Im sure youd be able to find it at any car store. The kit will most likely come with new caliper slides as well so you can replace those as well. well good luck with this can't wait to see those bad boys behind those nice *** wheels. Peace

EDIT: ALso, if the caliper slides are stuck soak them in gasoline or wd40 or somehting they have to be submerged in there for a day or two.

 

Thank you that answers my question and I verified what I already thought which was that the 6th gen rotors and calipers fit behind the stock I35 sport rims. The slides look like they are in great condition, I am kinda nervous to mess with them. The rubber boots are also in really good condition. I got the pads with the calipers and rotors, and they all came from the same car so technically I should be able to tell how many miles were put on the rotors and calipers by checkin out the pads. The Calipers arent really dirty as much as they are like greasy. I dont know what they are covered with but I hope its not brake fluid cause I know that stuff eats everything.

 

put ur pads and complete the whole thing, then bleed. or else u will have to compress again to fit the damn pads...
i'm not so sure about bead-blasting ur caliper. u might get some beads by the piston and get it stuck or what not. just sand it down

 

very nice...cant wait to see the after pics. good luck man

 

Went to my buddies shop and media blasted the rotors today. These babies cleaned up awfully nice.

 

Sexy. Yeah and +1 for not blasting the calipers, I've had both my rear calipers sieze separate times and it sucks. Be careful to not damage the piston of the rubber seal around it, or you'll have red rotors in no time.

DF

 

Got the SS lines in the mail today. They look really high quality. Its surprising that the fluid moves through such a small hole on the hooped end. From what I've heard the problem with SS lines is that at the ends as the line flexes the metal part comes loose and the sharp ends start to cut the inner line. These lines have hard plastic black supports at the ends so the hose cant flex there. In general they look very high quality and I cant imagine they have any higher chance of breaking than the stock lines which is what Irish claims.

 

I think the issue with SS lines is that the braids are just there for reinforcement, it doesn't actually hold the fluid in. So when, and if, the inner tube starts deteriorating, there's barely any sign or warning to the driver until you see fluid leaking (or lose brake pressure, whichever comes first).