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Oil loss - diagnosis from dealership

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Old 03-01-2007, 06:32 PM
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Damn man., sorry to hear about the **** poor Customer Service nissan is providing you with.

Do keep us posted, and be sure to nail those bastards to the wall.
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Old 03-16-2007, 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by soonerfan
after 1K miles, my oil is 1 qt low. whats left is very dark because its working harder.
Maybe a bottle of Auto Rx could help, it's supposed to be good for your rings also. Just a thought.

I cringe at all these oil burning posts because I will eventuall have an 02 or an 03.
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Old 03-17-2007, 11:50 AM
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Any new information Soonerfan?

How did this start for everyone who has the oil loss problem? Does it start slowly and get worse fast? I was just wondering so I know what to look out for.
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Old 03-22-2007, 11:13 AM
  #204  
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dust n bones, unfortunately this is how it starts. Take it from me, I should know I am on my second engine, which is now having the same oil consumption problems as the first engine. My first enigne was replaced under warranty at 98K km. It started gradually around 60-70 K km and was eventually consuming more than about 1L/ 1K km. My second engine is now at 65 K km and is now consuming about 1L/ 1K km. Talk about lighting stricking twice!!!!

I am now in the process of dealing with Nissan and the dealership. I am asking for a "goodwill gesture" on their part as I believe this is an ongoing problem since the first engine. We shall see and I intend to persue this matter relentlessly.

Damn it, I'm so disappointed. There I was thinking I was buying a great car back in 2002. Now I stand to loose thousands of dollars.

wolfman
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Old 03-22-2007, 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by wolfmanjack210
dust n bones, unfortunately this is how it starts. Take it from me, I should know I am on my second engine, which is now having the same oil consumption problems as the first engine. My first enigne was replaced under warranty at 98K km. It started gradually around 60-70 K km and was eventually consuming more than about 1L/ 1K km. My second engine is now at 65 K km and is now consuming about 1L/ 1K km. Talk about lighting stricking twice!!!!

I am now in the process of dealing with Nissan and the dealership. I am asking for a "goodwill gesture" on their part as I believe this is an ongoing problem since the first engine. We shall see and I intend to persue this matter relentlessly.

Damn it, I'm so disappointed. There I was thinking I was buying a great car back in 2002. Now I stand to loose thousands of dollars.

wolfman
Can I ask you if you did any kind of break-in procedure?
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Old 03-22-2007, 03:20 PM
  #206  
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Some aftermarket or HR pistons rings outa fix it
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Old 03-23-2007, 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by soonerfan
**EDIT**
1 Mar 07: Page 6 has my letter to Nissan NA and the response letter from them


As some people may remember, I am among the many people losing oil in their 3.5. I have been losing about a quart every 1,000 miles which causes the timing chain to rattle.
I took it to the dealership a few days ago and they just called back and said "we replaced the PCV valve that was stuck open".
I have 6,000 miles left on my warranty and I want to make sure they arent simply putting a bandaid on the problem until the warranty runs out.
So my questions are -
1. Could there be another problem that actually caused the oil leak and the PCV valve simply got stuck because of all the oil?
2. If it was the PCV valve, could the oil have caused more problems (clogged cats, etc)? And since the timing chain would rattle (due to low oil pressure causing the tensioner to not work) could there be problems caused by that (chain, cover, tensioner, etc)?

I'm going to pick the car up on Sun when i get back home and want to know if I need to argue anything else with the dealership before I sign for it.
I have an 02 and have looked for a PVC valve on my engine with no luck finding it. Local parts store and dealer both told me the 02-03 max doesn't have a PVC valve. How is that possible?
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Old 03-23-2007, 05:32 PM
  #208  
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every car has a PCV valve...there are threads with pictures of the location
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Old 03-23-2007, 08:34 PM
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Just to add I am also loosing oil and have been since 60k when I bought it. It has been getting worse and now I loose a qrt a week. When I downshift ro accelerate hard smoke comes out the exhaust and smells like burnt oil.

I now have 102000k on my car and do drive it hard but had the problem from day one. I've just gotten use to adding a couple qrts every other week and will eventually drop a new engine in.

I did a compression test and the # 5 cylinder has 135 comp and all others are over 170.
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Old 03-23-2007, 10:39 PM
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i'm with the others, and would really like to see a poll on this issue... because i have an 01 right now thats not burning a drop, and i'm thinking of upgrading to a 2003, but this oil loss issue has me concerned.. one of the techs at nissan was telling me that 2001 was the last year of the good quality nissan parts, because a different company started producing their parts after that and they've been garbage ever since.. i would also like for anybody who can to answer la02max's question about a break in procedure... anybody who's had their 02-03 since day one, what kind of break-in procedure did you follow and do you have this oil loss problem?
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Old 03-24-2007, 01:17 AM
  #211  
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my 03 has been burning oil since october. I went to the dealership under warranty and did the 4 consumption tests. (twice) It's burning 1 liter per 1000k. I'm dropping off the car on Monday and a new engine will be installed, picking it up tuesday... Thank you extended warranty.

hows that for a LOL
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Old 03-24-2007, 03:46 AM
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I went through the 6th Gen threads and couldn't find any about oil consumption.
I wonder if they fixed this problem?
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Old 03-24-2007, 03:47 AM
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**** i better check my oil then, everytime i do an oil change, i never seemed to be able to see where the level's at
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Old 03-24-2007, 07:33 AM
  #214  
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Originally Posted by soonerfan
every car has a PCV valve...there are threads with pictures of the location
Checked, but didn't come up with anything
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Old 03-24-2007, 07:49 AM
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http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....hlight=PCV+pic

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....hlight=PCV+pic
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Old 03-24-2007, 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by wyche89
i'm with the others, and would really like to see a poll on this issue... because i have an 01 right now thats not burning a drop, and i'm thinking of upgrading to a 2003, but this oil loss issue has me concerned.. one of the techs at nissan was telling me that 2001 was the last year of the good quality nissan parts, because a different company started producing their parts after that and they've been garbage ever since.. i would also like for anybody who can to answer la02max's question about a break in procedure... anybody who's had their 02-03 since day one, what kind of break-in procedure did you follow and do you have this oil loss problem?
Well, start a poll then, in another thread of course.
Break in procedure will vary vastly depending on who you ask. OEM engines have already been been "broke in" from the factory, so there is no need to "break-in" the motor the same way you would as if you just put new rings and seals in yourself. The only thing I can quickly recommend is staying away from synthetic for the first 5000 miles to allow the rings to fully seat. Not going to hijack this thread, so again start another thread.

Also there is no reason for Sooner to go to small claims court. There is also no reason for Sooner to write Nissan another letter with affidavits. As he already stated they have already honored his warranty by already doing work under his warranty. He's on the right track following the correct procedure as outlined in his Owners Manual.
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Old 03-24-2007, 09:48 AM
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im starting to wonder if my timing advance to 17 degrees before top dead center would cause this problem.
the timing advance causes the ignition to occur earlier (before the piston reaches top dead center).
would this cause extra compression that this rings cant handle?
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Old 03-24-2007, 09:50 AM
  #218  
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Originally Posted by 5thgenmaxima
Also there is no reason for Sooner to go to small claims court. There is also no reason for Sooner to write Nissan another letter with affidavits. As he already stated they have already honored his warranty by already doing work under his warranty. He's on the right track following the correct procedure as outlined in his Owners Manual.
I am currently working on the next step (as outlined by Nissan) of submitting this to an arbitrator.

from my original letter to NNA
- Should Nissan North America continue to deny service for the identified oil consumption problem under the existing powertrain warranty, I will seek arbitration through an arbitration program that complies with the Federal Trade Commission’s arbitration regulations as laid out in the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act.
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Old 03-24-2007, 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by wyche89
i'm with the others, and would really like to see a poll on this issue... because i have an 01 right now thats not burning a drop, and i'm thinking of upgrading to a 2003, but this oil loss issue has me concerned.. one of the techs at nissan was telling me that 2001 was the last year of the good quality nissan parts, because a different company started producing their parts after that and they've been garbage ever since.. i would also like for anybody who can to answer la02max's question about a break in procedure... anybody who's had their 02-03 since day one, what kind of break-in procedure did you follow and do you have this oil loss problem?
When my '98 started to burn oil like these VQ35's, and I had the motor replaced with a brand new unit from Nissan under my 6 year ASP warranty, I followed that controversial break-in procedure done by the man that started using it on motorcycles...basically where you take the car to red line and let it engine brake a bunch of times. Also changed the oil very frequently in the beginning when doing that. After close to 90k KM on the new motor and that procedure, it didn't burn a drop of oil.
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Old 03-24-2007, 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by 5thgenmaxima
Well, start a poll then, in another thread of course.
Here's a start: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....72#post4465072
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....63#post4197963
And plenty more I'm sure...
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Old 03-24-2007, 10:37 AM
  #221  
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Soonerfan: I doubt that it's your basic idle "advanced" (2 deg.?) timing. The tolerance is 15 deg. +/- 5 deg. BTDC, so that unless this thing was detonating badly enough to cause physical piston/top ring damage/burning etc., I don't think your slight basic timing advance had anything to do with it. Seems to me that I've seen an ignition curve on these engines showing that when they are up in the "higher power range" the ignition occurs at something like 35 deg. BTDC or more.
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Old 03-24-2007, 10:41 AM
  #222  
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Originally Posted by P. Samson
Soonerfan: I doubt that it's your basic idle "advanced" (2 deg.?) timing. The tolerance is 15 deg. +/- 5 deg. BTDC, so that unless this thing was detonating badly enough to cause physical piston/top ring damage/burning etc., I don't think your slight basic timing advance had anything to do with it. Seems to me that I've seen an ignition curve on these engines showing that when they are up in the "higher power range" the ignition occurs at something like 35 deg. BTDC or more.
cool.
yeah its +2 (17)
i didnt think it could cause a problem but wanted to double check.
the engine has never had a problem (denotation problems, etc)
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Old 03-24-2007, 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by 5thgenmaxima
Break in procedure will vary vastly depending on who you ask. OEM engines have already been been "broke in" from the factory, so there is no need to "break-in" the motor the same way you would as if you just put new rings and seals in yourself. The only thing I can quickly recommend is staying away from synthetic for the first 5000 miles to allow the rings to fully seat. Not going to hijack this thread, so again start another thread.
Well apparently VQ35s have something wrong with the rings. There are several people that have no oil burning issues (myself included) and there are also several that have issues. Break-in from the factory isn't enough IMO (at least nissan's procedures...there are some makes that extensively break-in their engines). To expedite ring seating and make it as even as possible, it's best to use aggressive throttle inputs and vary the RPMs fairly often. It might be the poeple that think they need to baby their cars and not rev over 2000, etc. that are having problems.

Originally Posted by kingrukus
When my '98 started to burn oil like these VQ35's, and I had the motor replaced with a brand new unit from Nissan under my 6 year ASP warranty, I followed that controversial break-in procedure done by the man that started using it on motorcycles...basically where you take the car to red line and let it engine brake a bunch of times. Also changed the oil very frequently in the beginning when doing that. After close to 90k KM on the new motor and that procedure, it didn't burn a drop of oil.
The best procedures for break-in are listed above. Engine braking is not the best way, IMO, because it's at this point (low load/high RPM) that timing is the most aggressive and there is no load pushing the rings out toward the cylinder wall (one of the main functions of break-in).

Originally Posted by P. Samson
Soonerfan: I doubt that it's your basic idle "advanced" (2 deg.?) timing. The tolerance is 15 deg. +/- 5 deg. BTDC, so that unless this thing was detonating badly enough to cause physical piston/top ring damage/burning etc., I don't think your slight basic timing advance had anything to do with it. Seems to me that I've seen an ignition curve on these engines showing that when they are up in the "higher power range" the ignition occurs at something like 35 deg. BTDC or more.
The only thing you're advancing is base ignition timing anyway, which is always closed loop and like you mentioned timing advances much further throughout the revband (for obvious reasons...combustion has to occur quicker, therefore spark has to begin earlier).
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Old 03-24-2007, 03:15 PM
  #224  
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Thanks

Doesn't seem like changing the PVC is really going to do a whole lot though? Anyone know if the I-35 has the same motor as our maxima's? Looks identical!
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Old 03-24-2007, 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by drock02
Thanks

Doesn't seem like changing the PVC is really going to do a whole lot though? Anyone know if the I-35 has the same motor as our maxima's? Looks identical!
yes.......VQ35DE
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Old 03-24-2007, 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by kwk1
I went through the 6th Gen threads and couldn't find any about oil consumption.
I wonder if they fixed this problem?
The 6th gen ring set has the same part number as the 5.5 gen ring set.
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Old 03-24-2007, 05:26 PM
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Basically, Mr. Sooner, I will tell you why you (unfortunately) and most likely won't be recieving a new motor:

You clearly stated you didn't follow Nissan's recommended lubricant: non-synthetic motor oil. That sly line in the middle of their letter about recommened maintenance is what I am referring to. Nissan should really prohibit use of synthetic to make it clear.

This will make about half the board, go, "oh, that's &%*#," but it isn't. It is how they operate. Nissan specifies dino in the owner's manual. Ditto'd in their letter.

You should have stated you chaged the oil, but negated the synthetic specification.

I have your same problem, too. Oil consumption, and it really varies. Last interval of about 3k miles (this was my first interval on german castrol) I used 1.5-1.75 qts. I don't even rev alot. Mostly <3k city driving. Auto-RX before this.

I think that is has nothing to do with break-in, and more with the rings themselves, and what they are made of. I would say the supplier has got the wrong metallurgical treatment/process/whatever, and this should be enough for them to replace the shortblock, but they won't. A recall like this would cost ALOT, but perhaps Nissan feels the potential loss in consumers is still less than this cost.

I would try getting a cheap VQ35 from a junker, rebuild it, and just eat it. Or sell it (which is way easier).
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Old 03-24-2007, 05:30 PM
  #228  
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nissan cannot deny warranty work for using synthetic oil...the oil did not cause the problem.

they are denying the warranty work because there are two oil changes i dont have proof of because i did it myself.
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Old 03-24-2007, 07:12 PM
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AuAltima3.5: Nissan DOES NOT prohibit the use of synthetic oil. Where the hell did you get that idea?
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Old 03-24-2007, 07:39 PM
  #230  
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the dealerships up here in Canada give you synthetic mobil1 5w-30 without asking..
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Old 03-24-2007, 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by P. Samson
AuAltima3.5: Nissan DOES NOT prohibit the use of synthetic oil. Where the hell did you get that idea?
Nissan recommends normal oil...does not PROHIBIT synthetic
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Old 03-24-2007, 09:56 PM
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'00 Owner's Manual under ENGINE OIL AND OIL FILTER RECOMMENDATION......Page 10-5......."Mineral based or synthetic type oils may be used in your NISSAN vehicle. These oils must however, meet the API quality and SAE viscosity ratings specified for your vehicle. Do not mix mineral based and synthetic type oils in the engine at the same time." Anyway the HOC on these "problem" engines (unless I'm misreading some of the posts), seems to occur fairly suddenly, long after being new and seem to be caused by only one or two cylinders. To me this eliminates break-in or lack of it, or an assembly problem like not staggering ring gaps/side clearances etc. Material/heat treating problems on a few rings or cylinder liners.......maybe. Owner self-inflicted......who knows? But until Nissan or it's engineering dept. releases some official info, then we may never know for sure. Hell.....the VQ35 should have been an improvement over the VQ30. It's got the "continuous full flow" block cooling and oil jet piston squirters that the VQ30 never got.
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Old 03-24-2007, 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by P. Samson
Hell.....the VQ35 should have been an improvement over the VQ30. It's got the "continuous full flow" block cooling and oil jet piston squirters that the VQ30 never got.
I shake my head daily at the wasted opportunity for greatness that is/was the VQ35DE.
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Old 03-25-2007, 06:50 AM
  #234  
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Originally Posted by nismology
I shake my head daily at the wasted opportunity for greatness that is/was the VQ35DE.
i wouldnt go that far
it is an amazing and powerful engine!!
there are just a few cars where its all messed up by something small like piston rings.
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Old 03-25-2007, 08:06 AM
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Don't get me wrong, there are a number of upgrades that the VQ35 has over the 3.0 other than displacement that i appreciate. I'm gonna eventually swap one into my A32, but not without a different ringset. If the oil-burning instances were limited to maximas, that'd be one thing. But every VQ35-equipped vehicle has been plagued with this and it gets a bum rap because of it. Many people have sworn to never buy another nissan based solely on their experiences with an oil-burning VQ35. Clearly nissan dropped the ball. And it's not like they didn't have 4+ years to fix it either... Not to mention skimping on the headgasket...2-layer MLS versus 3-layer for the RWD VQ.


What makes me different from the VQ35 haters though is i'm more disappointed than spiteful.
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Old 03-25-2007, 08:36 AM
  #236  
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burning oil is not a normal process for combustion.
the rings should have held up better for a car under 8 years old.
my car burns same amount and its a 92, and i still don't consider that par.

when is the last time you had to stop and fill up at the oil station?
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Old 03-25-2007, 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by alextothestars
burning oil is not a normal process for combustion.
the rings should have held up better for a car under 8 years old.
my car burns same amount and its a 92, and i still don't consider that par.

when is the last time you had to stop and fill up at the oil station?
What is the purpose of this post? I was explaining why, as a VQ enthusiast, i'm disappointed by this issue. You're just regurgitating the obvious.
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Old 03-25-2007, 06:54 PM
  #238  
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Originally Posted by soonerfan
Nissan recommends normal oil...does not PROHIBIT synthetic
Yes, I am definately wrong here. I thought the manual had said "do not" thought... I don't have a manual with my 02 Altima, but I would have swore the one in the G35 said no syn... It probably doesn't either then though.

Wow, Nissan really had reason to even send a letter like that then, since it was totally unrelated to your problem.
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Old 03-26-2007, 05:34 AM
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Originally Posted by P. Samson
'00 Owner's Manual under ENGINE OIL AND OIL FILTER RECOMMENDATION......Page 10-5......."Mineral based or synthetic type oils may be used in your NISSAN vehicle. These oils must however, meet the API quality and SAE viscosity ratings specified for your vehicle. Do not mix mineral based and synthetic type oils in the engine at the same time."
Page 9-5 in the 2002 owners manual states the same.
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Old 03-26-2007, 07:49 PM
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I'd like to see if the cylinders having problems are the same in all the problem cars...As I previously posted I have one cylinder producing low compression. I think it would be the #5. Mine is the closest to the driver seat.

Also like to see if there were similarities in the production dates
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