5th Gen "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread
#361
Originally Posted by slowls
Ok when you say mechanical parts that every thing that moves is there any factory parts that I can use off the 350z like cams that will gain any performance on my infiniti, and im assuming that I can use the bolt on parts from a mixima right.
#362
Originally Posted by hayai240sx
Do you have a short throw? Which one? I asked because one of the members here has a b&m short throw, and it still looks awfully long . Thanks
Or, go buy a Honda.
#363
Originally Posted by NmexMAX
9" wide coupled with 225's? The tire will most likely not fit, ND IF THEY DO THEY WILL LOOK :SPIT:.
That offset is quite low, so rubbing may be an issue.
My rear wheels look nice and even with my fronts as well as flush with my fenders.
Stats = 8" wide, 40mm offset, 15mm spacers in rear, 5mm spacers in front. (effectively 25 offset in back, and 35 in front, doing the math with the spacers installed),
#364
Originally Posted by irish44j
an STS doesn't necessarily change the LENGTH of the shifter itself. It changes the length of the THROW. If you want the shifter shorter, take a hacksaw and cut it shorter, then rethread the top and put the **** back on.
Or, go buy a Honda.
Or, go buy a Honda.
Guess I have to live with the long shifter for now. Oh well, at least I'll have a long ***** on hand when in need of one...
#365
Installing 2003 HID Headlights on 2000 Maxima
Hey Guys,
So I found a pair of 2002 - 2003 genuine Nissan Maxima headlight assemblies with ballast and bulbs on ebay for a great deal. So I want to install these on my Maxima but I'm a little unsure what this entails. Is it as simple as plugging the existing cables into the ballasts or is it a little more involved? Do I need to get heavier duty cables or will my stock cables work fine, will the ends need to be rewired etc?
The conversion / retrofit kits I see online look like the ones that the Govt. wants to outlaw and for good reason from what I’ve seen, basically designed to go in existing halogen housing. In the end all I want to do is put a 2003 headlight assembly in my 2000 Maxima and enjoy the benefits of HID vs. what I’m using right now.
Anyway, looking for a little guidance, thanks in advance to anybody who can spell this out for me.
Thanks guys
So I found a pair of 2002 - 2003 genuine Nissan Maxima headlight assemblies with ballast and bulbs on ebay for a great deal. So I want to install these on my Maxima but I'm a little unsure what this entails. Is it as simple as plugging the existing cables into the ballasts or is it a little more involved? Do I need to get heavier duty cables or will my stock cables work fine, will the ends need to be rewired etc?
The conversion / retrofit kits I see online look like the ones that the Govt. wants to outlaw and for good reason from what I’ve seen, basically designed to go in existing halogen housing. In the end all I want to do is put a 2003 headlight assembly in my 2000 Maxima and enjoy the benefits of HID vs. what I’m using right now.
Anyway, looking for a little guidance, thanks in advance to anybody who can spell this out for me.
Thanks guys
#367
Originally Posted by hayai240sx
How much camber are you running on your rear?
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=402852
#368
Originally Posted by irish44j
an STS doesn't necessarily change the LENGTH of the shifter itself. It changes the length of the THROW. If you want the shifter shorter, take a hacksaw and cut it shorter, then rethread the top and put the **** back on.
Or, go buy a Honda.
Or, go buy a Honda.
The Maxima is also cable operated and a bit clunky, but nowhere NEAR as bad as the Accord 6-speed.
#369
Originally Posted by NmexMAX
I had visions to tuck wide low offset wheels, but now my plans are diminished....
So my question is: Wouldn't I get negative camber if I dropped the car with coilovers hence tire wear ???? Sorry, I'm just not getting it...
#370
Originally Posted by hayai240sx
Thanks NmexMAX,
I had visions to tuck wide low offset wheels, but now my plans are diminished....
So my question is: Wouldn't I get negative camber if I dropped the car with coilovers hence tire wear ???? Sorry, I'm just not getting it...
I had visions to tuck wide low offset wheels, but now my plans are diminished....
So my question is: Wouldn't I get negative camber if I dropped the car with coilovers hence tire wear ???? Sorry, I'm just not getting it...
#371
Originally Posted by Succinct
I test drove a couple of 2003-2005 Honda Accord Coupe 6-speeds prior to buying my Honda. It was difficult to believe they were made by Honda (the CREATOR of buttery smooth stick-shifting) because they were the clunkiest cable-operatred shifter mechanisms I've ever encountered. And they were *****-long too, in case that matters.
The Maxima is also cable operated and a bit clunky, but nowhere NEAR as bad as the Accord 6-speed.
The Maxima is also cable operated and a bit clunky, but nowhere NEAR as bad as the Accord 6-speed.
btw, only the 02-03 shifter is cable operated. My shifter (00-01) is rod-operated and is considerably smoother. having driven several 6MT maximas, I can say i like the 5MT much better in terms of shift feel.
#372
Originally Posted by Succinct
There is an adjustable camber kit you buy to offset that - it's basically a set of eccentric bolts. Pretty cheap - about $25-$45 - depending on where you get 'em.
#373
Originally Posted by hayai240sx
I had visions to tuck wide low offset wheels, but now my plans are diminished....
Originally Posted by hayai240sx
Wouldn't I get negative camber if I dropped the car with coilovers
#374
Originally Posted by irish44j
yeah, I miss the old smooth shifter on my 92 accord coupe.
btw, only the 02-03 shifter is cable operated. My shifter (00-01) is rod-operated and is considerably smoother. having driven several 6MT maximas, I can say i like the 5MT much better in terms of shift feel.
btw, only the 02-03 shifter is cable operated. My shifter (00-01) is rod-operated and is considerably smoother. having driven several 6MT maximas, I can say i like the 5MT much better in terms of shift feel.
#375
Originally Posted by Dayo
Hey Guys,
So I found a pair of 2002 - 2003 genuine Nissan Maxima headlight assemblies with ballast and bulbs on ebay for a great deal. So I want to install these on my Maxima but I'm a little unsure what this entails. Is it as simple as plugging the existing cables into the ballasts or is it a little more involved? Do I need to get heavier duty cables or will my stock cables work fine, will the ends need to be rewired etc?
The conversion / retrofit kits I see online look like the ones that the Govt. wants to outlaw and for good reason from what I’ve seen, basically designed to go in existing halogen housing. In the end all I want to do is put a 2003 headlight assembly in my 2000 Maxima and enjoy the benefits of HID vs. what I’m using right now.
Anyway, looking for a little guidance, thanks in advance to anybody who can spell this out for me.
Thanks guys
So I found a pair of 2002 - 2003 genuine Nissan Maxima headlight assemblies with ballast and bulbs on ebay for a great deal. So I want to install these on my Maxima but I'm a little unsure what this entails. Is it as simple as plugging the existing cables into the ballasts or is it a little more involved? Do I need to get heavier duty cables or will my stock cables work fine, will the ends need to be rewired etc?
The conversion / retrofit kits I see online look like the ones that the Govt. wants to outlaw and for good reason from what I’ve seen, basically designed to go in existing halogen housing. In the end all I want to do is put a 2003 headlight assembly in my 2000 Maxima and enjoy the benefits of HID vs. what I’m using right now.
Anyway, looking for a little guidance, thanks in advance to anybody who can spell this out for me.
Thanks guys
#376
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by Dayo
Hey Guys,
So I found a pair of 2002 - 2003 genuine Nissan Maxima headlight assemblies with ballast and bulbs on ebay for a great deal. So I want to install these on my Maxima but I'm a little unsure what this entails. Is it as simple as plugging the existing cables into the ballasts or is it a little more involved? Do I need to get heavier duty cables or will my stock cables work fine, will the ends need to be rewired etc?
The conversion / retrofit kits I see online look like the ones that the Govt. wants to outlaw and for good reason from what I’ve seen, basically designed to go in existing halogen housing. In the end all I want to do is put a 2003 headlight assembly in my 2000 Maxima and enjoy the benefits of HID vs. what I’m using right now.
Anyway, looking for a little guidance, thanks in advance to anybody who can spell this out for me.
Thanks guys
So I found a pair of 2002 - 2003 genuine Nissan Maxima headlight assemblies with ballast and bulbs on ebay for a great deal. So I want to install these on my Maxima but I'm a little unsure what this entails. Is it as simple as plugging the existing cables into the ballasts or is it a little more involved? Do I need to get heavier duty cables or will my stock cables work fine, will the ends need to be rewired etc?
The conversion / retrofit kits I see online look like the ones that the Govt. wants to outlaw and for good reason from what I’ve seen, basically designed to go in existing halogen housing. In the end all I want to do is put a 2003 headlight assembly in my 2000 Maxima and enjoy the benefits of HID vs. what I’m using right now.
Anyway, looking for a little guidance, thanks in advance to anybody who can spell this out for me.
Thanks guys
#377
I am not that new here but I have a n00b question. My car is broken. How do I fix it?
just kidding. battery isn't charging, but takes a charge from external charger via jumper cables &c. lights flash. car dies. got it home. should I buy the re-mfg eBay alternator I found for about $100 shipped? seller has good rep, but I'm not 100% sure it's the alternator.
-- pobre in Massachusetts
PS... car has 122K mi on it
just kidding. battery isn't charging, but takes a charge from external charger via jumper cables &c. lights flash. car dies. got it home. should I buy the re-mfg eBay alternator I found for about $100 shipped? seller has good rep, but I'm not 100% sure it's the alternator.
-- pobre in Massachusetts
PS... car has 122K mi on it
#378
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by Relaxima
I am not that new here but I have a n00b question. My car is broken. How do I fix it?
just kidding. battery isn't charging, but takes a charge from external charger via jumper cables &c. lights flash. car dies. got it home. should I buy the re-mfg eBay alternator I found for about $100 shipped? seller has good rep, but I'm not 100% sure it's the alternator.
-- pobre in Massachusetts
PS... car has 122K mi on it
just kidding. battery isn't charging, but takes a charge from external charger via jumper cables &c. lights flash. car dies. got it home. should I buy the re-mfg eBay alternator I found for about $100 shipped? seller has good rep, but I'm not 100% sure it's the alternator.
-- pobre in Massachusetts
PS... car has 122K mi on it
Try just replacing the battery first? Go to Autozone and have them test the batt/alt for free. Why go through the hassel and $ of an alternator when it could just be a bad battery.
#379
no doubt...
The battery is taking a charge just fine, but only when it's hooked up to another car's battery. The battery is so low, though, that driving it for a minute or two after five minutes of charging makes the engine die. This means that the battery is not the problem, but the mechanism for charging it. The alternator is not the only part in that sequence, right? The belt is fine, the front of the alternator is turning while the engine runs.
Does anyone know if the copper wires are supposed to be turning or if the visible ones through the vents in the alternator's housing should be fixed (i.e., stator coils or whatever)?
Also, when the engine starts to die, the BRAKE and ABS and seat belt lights start to come on. The battery light has been on. I suppose I just don't want to buy a refurb alternator for $100, waste a week waiting for it and waste a day putting it in if there is something else that could be wrong. I can't move the car to have Autozone test it, but, ironically, I broke down right next to one (imagine that!). I tested it with a multimeter and I am sure it's not the battery.
I would also like to know if anyone has experience buying refurb/reman'd parts from eBay sellers.
Does anyone know if the copper wires are supposed to be turning or if the visible ones through the vents in the alternator's housing should be fixed (i.e., stator coils or whatever)?
Also, when the engine starts to die, the BRAKE and ABS and seat belt lights start to come on. The battery light has been on. I suppose I just don't want to buy a refurb alternator for $100, waste a week waiting for it and waste a day putting it in if there is something else that could be wrong. I can't move the car to have Autozone test it, but, ironically, I broke down right next to one (imagine that!). I tested it with a multimeter and I am sure it's not the battery.
I would also like to know if anyone has experience buying refurb/reman'd parts from eBay sellers.
#380
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by Relaxima
The battery is taking a charge just fine, but only when it's hooked up to another car's battery. The battery is so low, though, that driving it for a minute or two after five minutes of charging makes the engine die. This means that the battery is not the problem, but the mechanism for charging it. The alternator is not the only part in that sequence, right? The belt is fine, the front of the alternator is turning while the engine runs.
Does anyone know if the copper wires are supposed to be turning or if the visible ones through the vents in the alternator's housing should be fixed (i.e., stator coils or whatever)?
Also, when the engine starts to die, the BRAKE and ABS and seat belt lights start to come on. The battery light has been on. I suppose I just don't want to buy a refurb alternator for $100, waste a week waiting for it and waste a day putting it in if there is something else that could be wrong. I can't move the car to have Autozone test it, but, ironically, I broke down right next to one (imagine that!). I tested it with a multimeter and I am sure it's not the battery.
I would also like to know if anyone has experience buying refurb/reman'd parts from eBay sellers.
Does anyone know if the copper wires are supposed to be turning or if the visible ones through the vents in the alternator's housing should be fixed (i.e., stator coils or whatever)?
Also, when the engine starts to die, the BRAKE and ABS and seat belt lights start to come on. The battery light has been on. I suppose I just don't want to buy a refurb alternator for $100, waste a week waiting for it and waste a day putting it in if there is something else that could be wrong. I can't move the car to have Autozone test it, but, ironically, I broke down right next to one (imagine that!). I tested it with a multimeter and I am sure it's not the battery.
I would also like to know if anyone has experience buying refurb/reman'd parts from eBay sellers.
#382
Heeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeelp
Sorry for typing so large but I am in need of help. My exhaust is failing on a 2001 Anniversary edition Maxima..... The dealer wants a retarted amount of money to fix it.... I want something nice..... From the y pipe back... any suggestions... nothing loud or ridiculous... just nice....
HEEEEEEEEEEEEELP!!!!!!!!!!!
HEEEEEEEEEEEEELP!!!!!!!!!!!
#384
Hi got 2 cel code in my 2k3 max 0455 and 1448 (probably the gas cap or vent valve) Would it hurt to keep them like that and not fix that immediately , we don't have emission control in quebec so I think these will not hurt the car if they stay there for a little bit (money money money)
#385
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by Porkepik
Hi got 2 cel code in my 2k3 max 0455 and 1448 (probably the gas cap or vent valve) Would it hurt to keep them like that and not fix that immediately , we don't have emission control in quebec so I think these will not hurt the car if they stay there for a little bit (money money money)
#386
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by vitalelement
Sorry for typing so large but I am in need of help. My exhaust is failing on a 2001 Anniversary edition Maxima..... The dealer wants a retarted amount of money to fix it.... I want something nice..... From the y pipe back... any suggestions... nothing loud or ridiculous... just nice....
HEEEEEEEEEEEEELP!!!!!!!!!!!
HEEEEEEEEEEEEELP!!!!!!!!!!!
Cattman exhaust is pretty popular. Not to loud, not silent. Visit http://www.cattman.com
#387
Originally Posted by hayai240sx
Has anyone achived this look on a 5th gen maxima? Notice the stretched out tires. This is what I call flush:
(It's not my car. Picture taken from zilvia)
(It's not my car. Picture taken from zilvia)
Not to mention the fact that stretching tires like that is not safe, no matter what anyone says.
That is not flush, that is stupid on a full-size sedan. Leave that crap for the 240 and GTI crowd...
#388
Originally Posted by irish44j
Why would you want wide wheels with a narrow tire contact patch, unless you are drifting and want to intentionally LOSE traction? A big car like the maxima needs all the traction it can get
Not to mention the fact that stretching tires like that is not safe, no matter what anyone says.
That is not flush, that is stupid on a full-size sedan. Leave that crap for the 240 and GTI crowd...
Not to mention the fact that stretching tires like that is not safe, no matter what anyone says.
That is not flush, that is stupid on a full-size sedan. Leave that crap for the 240 and GTI crowd...
#389
Originally Posted by Succinct
I agree with you on a technical basis, but man I just gotta say that I really like the look! Reminds me of the 17 x 9's and 255/40-17s I had on my previous car...
#390
Originally Posted by irish44j
255's would be appropriate on 9" wide wheels. That stretched look is probably using 225 width tires on a 9" wide wheel, FTL.
#391
Originally Posted by irish44j
Why would you want wide wheels with a narrow tire contact patch, unless you are drifting and want to intentionally LOSE traction? A big car like the maxima needs all the traction it can get
Not to mention the fact that stretching tires like that is not safe, no matter what anyone says.
That is not flush, that is stupid on a full-size sedan. Leave that crap for the 240 and GTI crowd...
Not to mention the fact that stretching tires like that is not safe, no matter what anyone says.
That is not flush, that is stupid on a full-size sedan. Leave that crap for the 240 and GTI crowd...
Here are good examples of stretched out tires on full size sedan:
Stretched tires arn't only for 240sx and GTI crowd.....
Work euroline DH coupled with JIC VIP FTW!!!!!
#393
Thanks > thnacks
Proper english is
Are high beams (plural, the s at the end of beams denotes this situation as more than one, therefore defeating the use of is)
And to answer the question, well, it's all up to the other driver to get pissed off.
Proper english is
Are high beams (plural, the s at the end of beams denotes this situation as more than one, therefore defeating the use of is)
And to answer the question, well, it's all up to the other driver to get pissed off.
#394
Bought a used SE 6speed 2k3 TE last week, great car, I have the switch on the driver's door for the memory seat but was not getting it to work, I pulled on it today and saw that it is not connected to any cable (so that is why it was not working) I was wondering if this is an option I don't have in my car and the switch came by default in every SE (also got the cancel button on the dash) or the wire got loose (or some work was done in the door) and is somewhere in the the door. ie: is it possible to have the switch but not the memory seat option? (not that it matters a lot I will be the sole driver, wife cannot drive stick(for the moment)
#395
Originally Posted by NmexMAX
Thanks > thnacks
Proper english is
Are high beams (plural, the s at the end of beams denotes this situation as more than one, therefore defeating the use of is)
And to answer the question, well, it's all up to the other driver to get pissed off.
Proper english is
Are high beams (plural, the s at the end of beams denotes this situation as more than one, therefore defeating the use of is)
And to answer the question, well, it's all up to the other driver to get pissed off.
a) The guy is from Brooklyn so you're not gonna change him
b) This is supposed to be a newbie thread, safe from prosecution by the non-newbies
c) My typing sucks and I've made worse blunders myself
Not trying to be a wise-a$$, just trying to help keep focus on the thread. I too hate seeing the English language being butchered.
#396
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by llama
Is using high beams during daytime (5.5 gen) **** people off? They aren't bright at all, especially day time, even popos don;t give me tickets, opinions please, thnaks.
#397
Hey guys,
I am thinking of buying Tokico Illuminas with Eibach springs soon for my 5.5 gen max. Are there any problems going over speed bumps? I try to avoid speed bumps anyway but i want to know if I can go over them if it is necessary. Thanks
I am thinking of buying Tokico Illuminas with Eibach springs soon for my 5.5 gen max. Are there any problems going over speed bumps? I try to avoid speed bumps anyway but i want to know if I can go over them if it is necessary. Thanks
#398
Does anyone know the part number for a 01 Maxima Fog Light relay? So I'm planning on buying the relay, combination switch & the fog lights. In the relay box, it should be the closest to the windshield & closest to the driver side.
#399
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by Memphis2k1
Does anyone know the part number for a 01 Maxima Fog Light relay? So I'm planning on buying the relay, combination switch & the fog lights. In the relay box, it should be the closest to the windshield & closest to the driver side.
#400
Originally Posted by aamir
Hey guys,
I am thinking of buying Tokico Illuminas with Eibach springs soon for my 5.5 gen max. Are there any problems going over speed bumps? I try to avoid speed bumps anyway but i want to know if I can go over them if it is necessary. Thanks
I am thinking of buying Tokico Illuminas with Eibach springs soon for my 5.5 gen max. Are there any problems going over speed bumps? I try to avoid speed bumps anyway but i want to know if I can go over them if it is necessary. Thanks