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As the title says I am new here but not new to Nissan automobiles. I can even remember when they were Datsun and I owned a Datsun 240Z and had a lot of fun in that car.
My current car while a decent car is very long in the tooth and I want to replace it before something expensive goes wrong. I have always liked the Nissan Maximas and I am looking at a 2001 Maxima GLE tomorrow and I want to ask if there are any specific things I need to be on the lookout for so I don't buy a nightmare. The car I am looking at has low mileage, 160,000 is in good shape and within the last year the current owner has replaced the starter and alternator, front struts, the brakes and rotors all around, given the car a tune up, replaced the timing chain and a few other items. I have talked with him on the phone and he seems like a decent enough guy and he tells me that the car will need to have the windshield replaced and the driver and passenger lower control arm replaced. I have replaced control arms before so I am not afraid to do that and I can get a windshield put in for approx. $150.
I also have some questions like what kind of oil should I use? In my present car I am using Castrol GTX Hi-Mileage Blend in 5W-30 and having good results. Can I continue to use this oil or is there a different oil I should be looking at for a Maxima?
Also, how about transmission fluid? In my current car I am using Valvoline MaxLife ATF and getting great results in fact better than the OE transmission fluid. Once I get a Maxima can I use the MaxLife or should I stay with the OE fluid?
I have read the reviews (Edmunds, KBB, and others) and they say that the Gen 5 Maxima is a good car but I want to hear from the guys who actually wrench on the car and drive it every day so Gentlemen what can you tell me? Thanks all and have a great week.
It's a very good car.
Before you buy it, inspect its radiator support. It tends to rust and it's a PITA to fix.
I have only used fully synthetic fluids in my car:
- Mobile1 5W-30, recenttly switched to 0W-40.
- Valvoline Maxlife for my AT (used for the last 10 years).
Hello folks- new here and seeking some guidance. I've encountered the p0505 on my 01 maxima- 215k miles. I've pulled my ecu and looking for opinions/verification its not toast. Still looks good to me but I'm not well versed in car repairs. The local mechanics I've encountered wouldn't pull it on my suggestion that its a well known issue, not sure why but thats what led me here and to doing it myself. The mechanic I got furthest with said I'd have to replace the entire throttle body assembly to get the code to drop- any thoughts on this? The car wont pass emissions and it's driven less than 50 miles a week, just needing it to get back on the road. I can provide a better photo if necessary. Thanks!
I have a 2000 with Federal missions. I had p0505 pop up a couple times over the years but luckily it never fried my ECU. Eventually i replaced it with an iacv from advance and put in an Nissan oem gasket (I've had issues with cheap and included gaskets over the years). Cleaned up the throttle body while I was in there, replace throttle body gasket if it hasn't been done in years. Problem went away. Passed the emissions after full drive cycle (look up emissions drive cycle or just drive it for a few weeks).
I had worried about my ecu as well but since the vehicle still started up and drove fine so I took the chance and just replaced the parts. I don't see any obvious scorch marks on your ECU btw
link to a manufacturers installation video:
Thanks for the reply boodro- do you recommend a certain manufacturer over another for the replacement IACV? I should have mentioned in my first post that the car does idle high, but I'm assuming thats tied to the IACV as well.
I checked my old amazon orders and it looks like i cheaped out on the iacv itself, got a no-name for $45 back in 2018, gasket that came with it was crap. My iacv is no longer listed. I Ordered the gasket from local nissan dealership. Don't have that receipt, but part# was probably 16618-4M501 (double check though) and under 10 bucks.
For high idle it probably is related but a few different things can cause that. In the meantime and without a diagnosis you could probably do an idle air volume relearn to see if that brings the idle down. Check for vacuum leaks on hoses and the fittings/tubes between filter box to intake. Don't throw parts at it.
With my recently acquired '02 Maxima being over 20 years old and weather stripping getting worm, I was wondering if anyone knew of a good aftermarket replacement for the OEM weather stripping, or if there is another option. I've had the occasional leak but mostly I'm being driven mad by the wind noise. Thanks in advance for any help.
With my recently acquired '02 Maxima being over 20 years old and weather stripping getting worm, I was wondering if anyone knew of a good aftermarket replacement for the OEM weather stripping, or if there is another option. I've had the occasional leak but mostly I'm being driven mad by the wind noise. Thanks in advance for any help.
My 2K is south Fla. car / garage kept (no cracking or stripping issues). I use AT-205 reseal original meant to rehab rubber auto trans seals. I apply it annually.
HELLO. I am looking for someone in the MD DC area to help with a vq35 engine swap. i have a 2003 nissan maxima and the engine has the timing guide issue and noise and i am trying to swap the engine for a 2016 engine. i have all the tools needed from nisformance. i just need someone that i can take the car to to do the swap. Thanks
HELLO. I am looking for someone in the MD DC area to help with a vq35 engine swap. i have a 2003 nissan maxima and the engine has the timing guide issue and noise and i am trying to swap the engine for a 2016 engine. i have all the tools needed from nisformance. i just need someone that i can take the car to to do the swap. Thanks
Greetings and Happy Thanksgiving Day!
As you may have noticed, I have posted in this thread a few times and my Beloved 2000 Nissan Maxima GLE sustained some bad Engine issues lately and I was forced to swap out my Engine. I took it to a super neat Pro Shop and I got lucky that I found a JDM Engine here in Orlando, Florida. I was not about to do this work at my age and alone so, I took it to a place known as RUBEN'S TIRE and AUTO here in Orlando (Altamonte Springs, Florida) and they did an excellent job for a cool $2,500 cash. This included the Engine at $500 with warranty and the rest was labor and new parts such as Water pump, Thermostat, new Rear Main Seal and all associated Gaskets and Seals for the newer Engine. The $500 Engine was certified at 130,000 miles which is in great shape.
HELLO. I am looking for someone in the MD DC area to help with a vq35 engine swap. i have a 2003 nissan maxima and the engine has the timing guide issue and noise and i am trying to swap the engine for a 2016 engine. i have all the tools needed from nisformance. i just need someone that i can take the car to to do the swap. Thanks
As a matter of fact, my 2000 MAXIMA had the same and I used an Additive and just kept running it UP until the dang After market Thermostat got stuck CLOSED and over-heated the Engine.
I would try a good Additive for the Timing Guides - Timing Chain and nurse it without high RPMs take-offs.
Hi guys, I’m wondering if someone more mechanically knowledgeable could tell me if these TEIN racing coils will fit a 2004 Infiniti i35, and if not, what will. I have the VQ35DE engine, and no other suspension mods.
I’ve attached a link and a photo. https://shop.redline360.com/products...08-gsp38-8uas2
Car stutters at idle, rarely will die while driving, or will not start
02 Maxima GLE. Car ran fine for years that we owned it, but began to have this behavior a couple of years ago. At idle it will sometimes run rough, sorta coughing like it might die. Less often it will simply cut out while operating. Happened to my wife once while she was turning left across traffic, pretty scary. Also has happened while idling at a light, and other times. Least common behavior is that it will not start.
The one weird factor I have noticed is, this behavior is worst in summer, and completely absent in the winter. Behavior does seem worse after we've driven for a bit (engine has heated).
Got errors P0340 P1800. Repaced VIAS and haven't gotten P1800 again, but have replaced cam position sensors multiple times and after some time P0340 returns. Replaced them recently with high quality parts and haven't gotten the error again, yet, but still getting the behavior.
Just pulled error codes tonight and got nothing, after a day of bad performance.
I really appreciate any help. The behavior is mostly annoying, except the random engine dying, which is extremely dangerous obviously. Wife is driving our kiddo around in this thing and we need it to get safe, especially with warm weather coming when it acts the worst.
I have a 2000 SE automatic trans which I just purchased for 500 bucks with 210,000 on the clock. Was leaking oil from the valve covers. I drove the car home and had no issue no CEL. The car started idles and drove great.
I just got done replacing the valve cover gaskets and the upper intake gaskets got everything buttoned up yesterday I also cleaned out the EGR pipe that goes into the upper intake as it was clogged. I took it for a test drive down the road and back. The car still runs great it idles fine maybe a bit high but no issues at all, I pulled back up to the garage and noticed the check engine light was on. I plugged the scan tool into it and got the p0505 idle air control valve code.
I pulled the IACV today and noticed the color of the aluminum housing was way cleaner than the TB and looked up the part number on the plastic stepper housing and its an AC Delco so it's been replaced. I tested the IACV and it reads about 22.8 ohms at 70 f close enough to spec for me, there was no coolant ingress into the electrical side of the valve all dry .
I am going to bypass the coolant lines, unplug motor mounts and install the 7.5 amp fuse for the ecu just for good measure. The only other thing I noticed is the intake tube between the filter box and TB is cracked. I have one on order already.
I am going to inspect the ecm for damage and test the output signal from the ECU but from the way it's running I don't suspect to find anything wrong.
I have all of the PCB rework and testing equipment at work and will repair any damage myself. I usually diagnose and repair forklift ECU's PLC modules vfds and automated batch control boards and whatever miscellaneous electronics my buddy's bring my way.
I have a 2000 SE automatic trans which I just purchased for 500 bucks with 210,000 on the clock. Was leaking oil from the valve covers. I drove the car home and had no issue no CEL. The car started idles and drove great.
I just got done replacing the valve cover gaskets and the upper intake gaskets got everything buttoned up yesterday I also cleaned out the EGR pipe that goes into the upper intake as it was clogged. I took it for a test drive down the road and back. The car still runs great it idles fine maybe a bit high but no issues at all, I pulled back up to the garage and noticed the check engine light was on. I plugged the scan tool into it and got the p0505 idle air control valve code.
I pulled the IACV today and noticed the color of the aluminum housing was way cleaner than the TB and looked up the part number on the plastic stepper housing and its an AC Delco so it's been replaced. I tested the IACV and it reads about 22.8 ohms at 70 f close enough to spec for me, there was no coolant ingress into the electrical side of the valve all dry .
I am going to bypass the coolant lines, unplug motor mounts and install the 7.5 amp fuse for the ecu just for good measure. The only other thing I noticed is the intake tube between the filter box and TB is cracked. I have one on order already.
I am going to inspect the ecm for damage and test the output signal from the ECU but from the way it's running I don't suspect to find anything wrong.
I have all of the PCB rework and testing equipment at work and will repair any damage myself. I usually diagnose and repair forklift ECU's PLC modules vfds and automated batch control boards and whatever miscellaneous electronics my buddy's bring my way.
Any pointers ?
Update: just went out and plugged in the IACV connected battery and had a helper turn the key on wile I watched the little piston here's a short video. Is that normal ?
So I got my 2000 maxi 210000 miles back together. New alternator, valve cover gaskets, main belt tensioner, plugs. Oil level is good. When I drive the car and return home while setting in the car at idle I can hear what sounds like a main bearing knock coming from the passenger side fire wall area that goes away when rpm is increased. From under the hood it sounds like it comes from the timing chain area. I used my mechanics stethoscope and probed under the engine in and around where the main bearings would be and the rotating assembly sounds smooth and quiet same with the valve train sounds smooth as well. The point where the knock is most pronounced is when I touch one of the bolts on the tensioner inspection cover. The knock is not particularly consistent. I removed the access cover and started the car let it build oil pressure and shut it off then immediately was able to depress the tensioner with a screw driver ? Or do they have a check valve that takes a while for the oil to bleed off the tensioner. I would assume it would not go soft as soon as the engine is turned off. The chain looks good from what I can see and the guide is in good shape
Any advice would be appreciated greatly. The car is for my son and I found a 3.5 we want to work on while he drives the 3.0
Update: just went out and plugged in the IACV connected battery and had a helper turn the key on wile I watched the little piston here's a short video. Is that normal ?
the issue was a crack/leaking intake tube. I still disconnected the electric engine mounts and bypassed the coolant lines. I also designed a diode array with built circuit protection that can replace all of the STA508A chips in the ECU I am having the PCB's printed and am going to assemble and test shortly. Will share the .gbr files if anyone is interested once I'm able to post outside of here . I use KiCad
Currently have a faulty brake light switch so I have been pulling the stop lamp fuse until I can get around to replacing the switch(I live in south Florida and it has been way too hot out to fiddle around with something I can barely see.) This afternoon while going to move the car I had the key in the ignition while putting the stop lamp fuse back in, as I put the fuse in the battery lost all power. No interior lights, door alarms. Have not had the opportunity to charge the battery yet but is there a possibility I caused some sort of damage to the electrical system?
Hi there. Got a '03 Canadian market SE (with 6-speed manual) that's been pretty well maintained, but there's an intermittant right rear ?suspension? noise that sometimes happens when starting from rest, or turning left, that's best described as a *gronk gronk* noise, that's bugging the heck out of me. Putting some e-brake pressure on it briefly can make it go away, but there's nothing wrong with the rear brakes or the wheel bushing on that side. The lateral link bushings all look okay as well (also why does the nissan parts diagram havethe lateral link flipped l/r compared to real life?).
... no replies eh? I think my lateral link is the problem. Car while driving over a section of road with two raised [in direction of travel] highspots, had a really weird side-to-side yaw motion and the *gronk* *gronk* noise happened again.
This thread is for the new members so that they are able to post a question. It can be ANYTHING that is 5th generation related. If we think it is important, we will either answer or make it into its own thread. If not, we will delete it.
This is only for LEGIT 5th Gen questions that may be specific to one user.
This is for noobs only and will be open only as long as we feel like maintaining it. SPAM WILL NOT BE TOLERATED.
This idea was brought to my attention by phenryiv1 in the I30(35) section
ALL MEMBER RESPONSES MUST BA A QUOTE OF THE ORIGINAL QUESTION! New questions, obviously, need not have any quotes.
Even if you are new and have no search privileges, you can read the Stickies (which we are working on to update), use the Google search method, or scan through the forum pages using the Find function on the browser (what I did when I first joined), or any other methods of research you may prefer, prior to just blurting out a question that has probably been asked before.
Please refrain from postwhoring in this thread. Since this thread is meant to help those who still cannot start their own threads, postwhoring just to reach 15 posts is inexcusable.
My maxima 3.5 v6 2003 car, when engaged, number 1 gear will enter, come out and enter again (jack). Again, when I stopped from a high motion, the gear will not return to 1 except when you offed the engine and restart, it will start selecting normal again
This thread is for the new members so that they are able to post a question. It can be ANYTHING that is 5th generation related. If we think it is important, we will either answer or make it into its own thread. If not, we will delete it.
This is only for LEGIT 5th Gen questions that may be specific to one user.
This is for noobs only and will be open only as long as we feel like maintaining it. SPAM WILL NOT BE TOLERATED.
This idea was brought to my attention by phenryiv1 in the I30(35) section
ALL MEMBER RESPONSES MUST BA A QUOTE OF THE ORIGINAL QUESTION! New questions, obviously, need not have any quotes.
Even if you are new and have no search privileges, you can read the Stickies (which we are working on to update), use the Google search method, or scan through the forum pages using the Find function on the browser (what I did when I first joined), or any other methods of research you may prefer, prior to just blurting out a question that has probably been asked before.
Please refrain from postwhoring in this thread. Since this thread is meant to help those who still cannot start their own threads, postwhoring just to reach 15 posts is inexcusable.
My maxima 3.5 v6 2003 car, when engaged, number 1 gear will enter, come out and enter again (jack). Again, when I stopped from a high motion, the gear will not return to 1 except when you offed the engine and restart, it will start selecting normal again.
Does anyone have a solution to this misbehaviour of my gearbox?
This thread is for the new members so that they are able to post a question. It can be ANYTHING that is 5th generation related. If we think it is important, we will either answer or make it into its own thread. If not, we will delete it.
This is only for LEGIT 5th Gen questions that may be specific to one user.
This is for noobs only and will be open only as long as we feel like maintaining it. SPAM WILL NOT BE TOLERATED.
This idea was brought to my attention by phenryiv1 in the I30(35) section
ALL MEMBER RESPONSES MUST BA A QUOTE OF THE ORIGINAL QUESTION! New questions, obviously, need not have any quotes.
Even if you are new and have no search privileges, you can read the Stickies (which we are working on to update), use the Google search method, or scan through the forum pages using the Find function on the browser (what I did when I first joined), or any other methods of research you may prefer, prior to just blurting out a question that has probably been asked before.
Please refrain from postwhoring in this thread. Since this thread is meant to help those who still cannot start their own threads, postwhoring just to reach 15 posts is inexcusable.
Hello its been years since i last posted. I am having a issue with 5 gear. I can only get it to go in fifth gear by using the reverse pull up lever. I had the transmission built by Darren Surratt at nisformance. Hd it installed at a Okc shop. Thia is were it goes south real quick. When thay installed it they said it has no 5th gear and no reverse.I had them call Nistormance . The shop still could not gt ibtofih gear. I picked it up today . When i got it home i tried lifting he reverse lever and it went into fifth. Still no reverse. What did that shop mess up to make it like this. Any help would be greatly appricated.
I have A 2002 Maxima 3.5 Automatic and I'm looking to replace the 3 motor mounts and trans mount. I see the front and rear can be replaced with mounts from energy suspension with brackets from MT maxima. What about the passenger side mount and trans mount? Is it the same concept? Or should i just get those for automatic?
side mounts don't need to be manual/auto, you can just replace them with automatic, there are no ES poly bushings for the side mounts anyway. some people found poly mounts for them but they may be hard to find. some filled them themselves
I was told a few days ago by my local mechanic that my VIAS control solenoid was on the verge of going bad.
Also they claimed the solenoid has a small bearing in it's center that spins.
So, I can't find online any part with that description and neither could the shop. Is it a part without a number that you can only get by pulling from a junk yard (like Swirl control things mentioned on another thread)? Could they even be describing a solenoid or could they be looking at something else?
My car has no codes so should I should Just ignore this? How would anyone be able to tell a solenoid is going bad?
Thanks for the reply and I should apologize that I didn't put the model and year. My car is a 2000 i30t. That parts, 14955-8J10A, fits a 2002, I think. An equivalent part for my vehicle is part #: 14933-2Y900. But that part isn't listed as being a VIAS solenoid in particular. I believe Infiniti USA expects someone to buy a complete intake manifold. But perhaps 14933-2Y900 will do.
I updated the previous message before I saw your reply. Yeah, that part number isn't a VIAS. The maxima stuff in my message you quoted , ignore all that. If your mechanic said the VIAS solenoid is going, it's the stuff in my revised post, as best as I can tell.
Thanks for the reply @westdude, I'd searched for both part numbers, 14933-2Y900 and 14956-38U10. When they're described, it seems they are both described as EGR or vapid canister vent valves. As far as I know, they could also be VIAS valves. However, for 2002 models, valves with number 14955 8J10A is described as a VIAS control solenoid and these aren't.
I have a 02 Maxima that i bought back in 2015 with 43k on it. I really wanted the 6 spd version but couldn't find one in time so I settled for the auto. I don't want to sell the car, it just hit 78k and the body is clean. What options do i have that are direct bolt on 6 spd.?
Getting back to this. Went to the shop and Ron helpfully pointed the VIAS control solenoid and related complex. From his description, I can also see it in 2001 repair manual. It is indeed a different thing than any of vacuum control solenoids we're mentioned. It's basically a box with a couple lines going in.
I am attaching a photo of the part highlighted in my engine.
Indeed, I think my shop is correct that there is no part number for it. It's "just a part of the intake manifold"
I have found, supposedly, a used manifold that is pictured with the part on it. I just have to make sure they'll deliver it with the part on it and that the part is good.
07-19-2021, 06:25 AM
