Its not the valve cover gasket, its the seal for the spark plug tube. Get ahold of DaveB and order a new valve cover from a 6th gen. He knows what you need. Its about $40.

 

I'm truly a noobie... HELP Locate in Houston need work done on 01.
I have a pwr steering leak, MAF (purchased from Dave B).

 

Does anyone know where I can get a digital factory service manual for a 2000 maxima SE??

 

Go to http://www.phatg20.net/ and register for a free account.

Once registered, select 'Download' from the Main Menu. Then just follow the links.

 

Okay. I want to post my own threads but when i click on the link it always tells me that I dont have enough privilages to post a thread or that my post is waiting on the administrator approval. So does anyone no what I need to do. so I can start posting my own "Threads"!!!

 

You need to have 15 posts before you can start your own threads.

 

hey i was wondering what does a LTB stand for ? suspension wise? thank you.

 

LTB = Lower Tie Bar

Which comes in 2 stages.Stage one, and Stage 2 . Heres the site from a member of the org that made them for our cars.

http://mattblehm.com/suspension.htm

 

So I just discovered my driver side front strut is blown.
Dealer wants $141+taxes for the strut.

I was wondering if its necessary to replace both sides; driver and passenger side?

 

i have a rear sway bar and a front tower strut bar already on when i purchase the vehicle, if i would get a LTB would that improve the handling(which i can feel) or would i not feel that much of a difference?

 

You will feel a big difference, of course one over the other. But definitely worth getting your hands on one.

 

nice cool! thank you for that information and the site. hey i see on your bottom of your page you have a b&m shifter? i think the guy before me had a short shifter. the throws are short but from second going into third is kind of hard to get in and when shifting i guess i have to use a a bit of strength. Is that the same feeling you had with your B&m short shifter? i use to drive a honda 2001 manual and the shifts were long but they were very easy to get in to and didn't have to use any force to get it in to gear

 

-Thanks alot nebojsa_o !!!

That helped.

 

I had a laptop plugged into the rear power adapter in our Gen5, and it stopped working. I plugged it into the front adpater, and that stopped working too. I replaced the 15amp fuses in the panel, but still don't have any power at all to either adapter.
Any ideas?

Dan

 

I need new tires really badly but i have the stock 16in alloys and i dont really like the way they look. What size rims should i get? I want to keep it more stock looking. I was looking at Nissan or nismo rims.

 

My front 12v wont work either. What should i check to fix this?

 

no need to register...
http://www.nissan-techinfo.com/deptog.aspx?dept_id=37

 

This is great! I lost my manual years ago....

 

Boooooooooooooooooooooo

 

Hi

I have a Nissan Maxima 2000 GLE. I purchased a month ago. I got the transmission oil changed. I did not check with Mechanic what oil is this -espacially if it is Dexon III.

Nevertheless I have a strange problem for last week or so. The car shakes and tries to move forward when in cold start - only in morning. This problem is there in P mode and also in D mode. Once the car gets heated up ... say 1 mile or so, this is not there. Then whole day when ever u start this problem is not there.

Can some one advise what should I do?

 

I just had Tokico Blues installed at a STS Tire and Auto in Jersey. Everything was fine for a week, then I started getting a clicking noise over bumps and when accel/decel (when nose would dip). Had them look again, said it was nothing. I got under the driver's front and noticed white grease on the springs, splattered on the wheel well, and dripping onto the strut - it looks like lithium grease. I spoke to a tech at Tokico who said lithium grease was the wrong type to use in the strut mount and that wheel bearing grease should have been used instead b/c it's heavier duty and won't melt as fast causing it to leak.

I'm going back to the mechanic tomorrow and am going to try and get the upper strut mount replaced for free (pay cost for parts, free labor) citing the wrong grease as my main concern. Anyone have any advice/thoughts for what they might argue back and how I can get them to commit to reduced costs? I already spent $500 in labor getting the damn things installed (labor + $75 alignment). Thanks for the help/thoughts.

 

Photos of the strut and grease leakage.

http://www.mediafire.com/imageview.p...nmk2je&thumb=5
http://www.mediafire.com/imageview.p...odydov&thumb=5

 

Any opinions on this?

 

Is that for just the part or part plus install?

 

Just for the strut. I'm leaning towards ordering both just so the car doesn't favor one side.

 

I would do both, and depending on your mileage, you should consider replacing the strut mounts too (mine just went bad 2 weeks after doing the labor for new struts) because the labor for the mounts is the same as it is for the full struts. $141 for just the strut seems a little high - check out tirerack.com or shox.com for some prices.

 

Alright, so having trouble starting the 2000 Maxima SE AT

105,000mi on it.

Went out yesterday and it would not start, first there was some clicking, but then it just didn't want to turn over. I live in vermont so it has gotten considerably colder.

My thoughts is that it could be the battery.

Today I went out and got it to turn over after some serious chugging and stalling.

So if I have this correctly the order to check would be:

1.) Battery (If I can get it to autozone)
2.) Starter Replace

For the past several months the car has been starting with a 3 second whine (kind of sounds like a mechanized whirring down) after I get the car started

a previous mechanic said I might need a new starter soon.

now the car is starting after a lot of *chug* *chug* *chugs*

Likely diagnosis?

Is it really as easy as people say to replace the starter?
I have replaced the MAF before and can change my own oil. Complicating factor is that I don't have a garage and its raining / snowing today and tomorrow.
Right now I only have access to a screwdriver set and a socket wrench


Additional Info: I also have a p0430 in there, I am likely going to need to replace the pre-cat. Can't really afford that right now, so if its an unrelated problem I will prob leave it be for the winter.

As always, thank you thank you thank you for your help

 

Alright Guys. recently i grabbed a berk intake for an 03 from a fellow orger. but im having trouble installing the JWT popcharger filter with the berk intake, there wasnt enough room. To the people with the setup how did you fit both of them on with that tight space to even get the filter on?

 

Hello All,

First time poster - long time lurker. These forums have helped me with a number of questions - so thanks to all. Prior to this though, I never really had any questions to post.

Now for my question: I recently successfully installed an o2 sim on my '00 maxima (cali spec). The SES light is not showing any longer. My question is, how long does the car have to run before it will clear that code from showing on an emissions test? I guess my thinking is, just because the SES light is OFF, doesn't mean the computer has completely cleared that old po430 code, that it will take some amount of driving. Anyone have an idea? Much appreciated - and lots of props to Puppetmaster for good instructions on the install.

 

I just bought a 2000 maxima and the rear door(drivers side) wont open, i managed to get the interior door panel off and tried everything i could to get the darn thing to open but i have had no luck at all! does anybody have an eploded view of the rear door latch and lock mechanism that i could look at????

 

Correct me if im wrong but couldn't you reset the ecu by taking off the battery terminal for 10+ mins or if your a 2002+ do the ecu reset method and this would erase any codes in the computer.

 

I would like to build up my 2000 auto a little but i cant find any place that sells headers anymore

 

sorry for the bump, but I am taking tomorrow to work on my car and I would like to travel 100+ miles this weekend

Any advice on course of action would be appreciated.

1.) Test Battery
2.) Buy starter and replace starter (how do I know if its the starter solenoid and not the starter?) somehow without blowing up my car
3.) Pray
4.) ????
5.) Profit

 

The problem with this is that the ECU would still need to go through some sort of reset period before I could get it tested at the emissions, as the computer testing the emissions will see that it has been reset and needs to run through its cycle. So, this is one way to do it, but I have a week til my plates expire - and this method may actually take longer than just allowing it the computer to correct itself on its own, hence my question. Thanks though.

 

[QUOTE=baronvf;6664606]sorry for the bump, but I am taking tomorrow to work on my car and I would like to travel 100+ miles this weekend

Any advice on course of action would be appreciated.



My car was doing the same thing. Turns out it was the starter again, that I had replaced 40K ago. THis time I bought a higher end starter from a differnt place, and it fixed m "hard cold starts" most of the whining (rest is the belt) and made my car start like it was brand new. Im familiar with Starter symptoms and even this one surprised me.... along with my peers. I also have a 2000SE. Sounds dumb, but make sure your negative cable is not loose also. But, get in there, and rip out the starter (isnt too bad at all) take it to your local autoparts store, and have it tested. This will give you some more confidence.

 

I have the same problem and i have to wiggle the key a little to get it to turn over. I was told that to fix the starter all you have to do is buy some 8$ part and open up the starter and replace it. I forgot what part it was thou.

 

Very basic question. Sunday I'm installing new drive shafts for my 2000 SE. I just purchased GSP brand from Advance tonight and when I got home I opened the boxes to make sure everything looked fine. I noticed that the driver side axle is angled slightly towards the end that attaches to the wheel hub assembly. This may in fact be normal and I was going to wait until I took out the old one to see if it matched up but I thought I'd ask anyway because from the looks of it the driver side axle box has been opened before. I want to make sure I didn't get a busted part. The passenger side axle is nicely sealed in a plastic sleeve while the driver side axle is just the part in the box with no type of plastic cover. So if anyone can tell me if it's normal that the driver side drive shaft isn't completely straight that would be great.

Also, besides the actual shafts I also bought new seals and a quart of transmission fluid. I've read on here that some people drain their fluid while doing this job and some don't. I'm going to be jacking the car up in the front so the car is going to be leaning back, is that going to sufficiently keep most of the transmission fluid in or am I going to need to just drain it all regardless and buy more fluid? And also besides the shafts and seals is there anything else I NEED that I haven't mentioned? I rented a master axle puller set from Advance, but if that's not necessary a heads up would be cool.....I'll just take it back.

Thanks in advance, sorry for the basic questions....save for changing out my brakes I've never really done any kinds of repairs on my maxima and I want to make sure the process goes as smoothly as possible.

 

There's plenty of headers. There's all kinds headers on ebay, cattman headers in group discount, and hotshot headers if you search the net.

 

The drive shaft needs to be straight! Any bend in a drive shaft is really really bad. I'm betting some a-hole bent his shaft, bought new ones, and put the damaged one back in the box and returned the whole thing.

Just top off any tranny fluid that you might lose.

I've never done a shaft change, so I can't help ya to much there.

 

Here is what the CV boot end looks like:




Is this normal? The rest of the axle is straight and looks fine, I just wanted to make sure this slight angle at the end was normal. Like I said, the passenger side shaft looks like it's never been open since it has a plastic sleeve around it, but the driver side one (pictured) came just as you see it there, so I'm thinking it's used.