VQP0WER

Ok, that looks normal. That end needs to articulate. I thought you were talking about the axle shaft itself.

MoeBelikeMax

iTrader: (1)

Just Code a P0430 Code What should i do?

VQP0WER

Why didn't you make your own thread?

Did you ready this one, which is still on the first page?

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...our-p0430.html

baronvf

Just a little update: I replaced the battery and now it starts no problem. Who would have figured?

PersianCzar

Hello Max community!! So this is my first post after reading religiously for the past 3 month. Sorry if im asking this question AGAIN, but I looked at every post on MAF sensors on the org and this is the most I came up with. I'm just trying to be confident before I order the part, since I luv my I30/MAX.

I can't manage to seem to identify the part number for my 2000 I30t sensor only, not plastic housing + sensor. I was told several part numbers for the 2000-2001 VQ30DE-K being:

22680-AD21A - AIR FLOW SENSOR ~$215 MSRP$268.98
22680-AD201 - MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR ~$390 MSRP$488.19
22680-2y001 - VOLUME AIR FLOW ~$82 MSRP$103.58

I went to http://www.mazda-parts-dealer.com/ and put the numbers and got the descriptions as listed above, but I will order from David Brunette eventually. So these are the ONLY 3 that exist as POSSIBLE MAF sensors for 2000-2001. But the wording throws me off since I don't see "MASS" in 2 of the 3, so are the other two generic items or other parts or are they indeed another description for "MAF Sensor"?

Not sure which one I need but everyone seems to have there own opinion. Even the sticky thread for parts, it's all over the place with the confusion. I'm looking for just the sensor itself, but I want the best possible version of the MAF for the 2000. I heard that there are other Nissan OEM MAF out there with different part numbers but they were superceded and obsoleted by the following part numbers listed above. So it has to be one of those 3...

Please help a brotha out and make this a thread, so we can once and for all answer this question. For 2000-2001 only, I don't want to know anything about 2002-2003 and the extra thermistor and all that... please!!

Thanks in advance,
Bobby

Teddie18

iTrader: (3)

Call Dave Burnett. He'll clear up the matter. He's also got an end of the month special going right now. Check out his post.

PersianCzar

So I called Dave and he recommended the part# ending in 2y001 and that's what I ordered. I'll keep yous posted on the outcome of the installation.

Reason why I ordered it was because I got a P0171 code and I cleaned the intake as well as changed the fuel filter with noticeabley better performance, but I still had the rpm lag/bog and the jerk while accelerating faster, and a limit of about 80 mph on the highway. We'll see what happens...

I also called Pinnacle Nissan/Infiniti where I live in Scottsdale, Arizona and the service manager said that the I preferably needed to have the ECM updated and flashed to retrain the parameters of the car. He said it will run without one but I might get a oxygen sensor code down the line. So I think if ur gonna DIY and save alot of money on a MAF, then don't be cheap on the ECM update. I mean only reason why I wouldn't get a reprogram is not trusting the dealer to do it, so I'll just cross-my fingers and cough up the $80-$100 cuz they're the only ones that can do it!! Blows, I know...

Grim-One

Whats up guys i'm new here and actually needed help finding a good mechanic in chicago to install a clutch and flywheel on my 02 max any suggestions would be appreciated

propwash

I have a stock 2k se at with 140K miles. twice In the past four days I lose all power with the car running. I.E. I drove about 6 miles through town stop&go to a shopping mall, all is good but I get ready to pull in to a parking space my dash lights up...I can't remember all the the lights but the airbag and OD off in the center were on.. my radar also read "lowvolt" I can rev the engine and lights go out/car is charging but it comes back. Car died and I jumped it a half hour later and all is good. Drove 20 miles home on the hwy and then 2 miles down a gravel country road still no issues. I pull in the drive and everthing goes dead again. I jumped it last night let it charge for awhile at idle and drove to work today without issue. The car has a new battery I tested Volts across batt at idle and it's right at 12v if i bump up to 2k rpm it's about 12.5v. I'm thinking alternator..thoughts

wrecked1101

Sorry for the 2 posts up, as I don't have an answer. I do have a interesting problem, though.

My car is starting to have rough start-ups. I have read a ton of the threads with start-up problems, but mine is different from those described.

So, here are the details...2003 Maxima SE, bone stock. Now that it is getting cooler, the problem seems to magnify. When I start the car, it is a very rough start-up and revs to almos 2k RPM. Once the car warms up, start-up would be what I would think is normal start-up.

So, since the car has just over 100k miles, I replaced the plugs. One very concerning thing I noticed it, the cylinder that houses the back right spark plug had/has oil in it. Oil did/does not make it's way to the cylinder since I am not blowing smoke. This was the only plug that had the problem. I don't think this relates to the starter problem, but I just thought I would throw that out as well to see if anyone else had this happen.

The car runs fine the rest of the day. I get about 24-26mpg and everything seems to be normal operating (Temp guage, voltage, etc.)

Any ideas?

nbts

Hi guys i'm quite new to the forum and was wondering if 8000dollars for a 2001 maxima se with 70000k miles on it, mint condition mechanic wise, interior is decent, leather has some wear and tear.Exterior has some chips in the back bumper. Would this be a good price for the car?

superbabyboy25

hey everyone, i have a 2000 maxima and i have a question about my front suspension. i live in nm and there are a lot of bumpy roads here and lately ive noticed when i drive down them a lot of popping from the driverside front i checked the strut and its good, ive been told its the cv half shaft. is there any easy way to check without havin to take it off? and my other question is with the rear suspension, going over bumps and stuff it bounces a lot im putting eibach springs to lower the car. if i put coil overs on it would that fix the bounce? any advice would be greatly appreciated thanks

VQP0WER

If you get springs and coilovers, the bumps will be magnified x100.

How did you test the strut?

Verbalclap

Im new on this forum but I have a 20th and on a cold start it idles fine and seems to drive fine no sputter or nothing but when it warms up I come to a stop light or sign or any kind of stop it will go to normal idle and then dies out, it restarts fine and idles good for about 10 to 15 seconds and then dies back out. ANY HELP would be appreciated.

Maxxed_Out2001

I just bought a 2001 black, with 109,000. It is bone stock and probably staying close to that way. I just wondered if any1 can give me ideas on Web pages with Angel Eyes and halogen bulbs. Possibly Web pages for good exhuasts that fit the 2001. Thanks for your replies everyone!

Maxxed_Out2001

I paid 8k for my 2001. It has 109,000 miles but does not have a single thing wrong with the paint, interior, or motor. It has leather, steering wheel controls, sun roof and everything. so you should be about at a good price with the paint chips and stuff.

propwash

Bump.......with an update the car has been driven about 40 miles a day stop/go and hwy for the past couple days no problems no lights. I'm sure this problem is not gone.

VQP0WER

You got a problem with one of the following:

Corroded battery/alt cables

Alternator failure.

maxximaa

iTrader: (10)

Somebody tells me what's going on please?

Friday evening, i was installing the after market HU on my car. Because it's an auto i had to pull the auto stick down to D position so i got enough room to take the trim out(removing the HU).

Now im done with the installation and put everything back together...I was leaving the garage, tried to start the car, it didntt, coz i got it in D still(i left it like that thru the installation process ~ 1.5 hr)

Put the stick back to P position and the car started and so i went... Came Saturday morning, i started the car and the "A/T CHECK" light flashed about 15 times or so. It's been like that since

What do i do? reset ECU?

aholymolie

I'm having trouble removing the switch. Any suggestions?

Trickey1

hi everyone. i have an 02 se i want 19 inch staggered rims but im not sure what size tires would be best as far as rub and ride. also would the 45 offset be the same with staggered rims? thanks alot any help at all will be appreciated.

VQP0WER

You're gonna need the FSM to troubleshoot. The troubleshooting procedures are located: AT-51 of the FSM.

VQP0WER

Get a bigger wrench.

maxximaa

iTrader: (10)

thanks

ViperBlueGT

My front passenger side strut mount has taken a crap on me(bad thumping from the front pass. side strut and observed the strut bolt moving when I would push on the fender) and I need to replace it but I am not sure what exact parts I need to get. Any info is appreciated! Thanks!

slugworth

I am experiencing a similar problem. My '00 Max struggled to start for the last few weeks and now the starter won't turn over, or even make a noise. All the other electronics seem to be working fine and once the car was running, it was fine (so the alternator is likely OK.)

I swapped the battery and changed the corroded battery connectors but that didn't have any effect.

How can I tell if the problem is the starter or corroded wires? Are there any other likely ways this problem is occuring?

thanks

JavY

iTrader: (3)

Quick Question,

I am replacing my radiator in a couple of days. Does any one know if there is a certain number or type of coolant that the 2003 maxima takes ?

Thanks

Reizy

iTrader: (48)

Check the fluids and lubricants section. I use long life Toyota red coolant and I think many others do as well.

Drain and fill a few times with distilled water until its clear (I think I used about 8 or 9 gallons). Make sure to get the car up to temp between cycles to open t-stat and flush the whole engine. Turn the heat on as well to flush the heater core. Then drain out a gallon of the water and add the coolant. Easy.

odecom5

my battery terminals are getting a little corroded as well. What can I use to clean them? thanks

JavY

iTrader: (3)

thanks for your help reizy

VQP0WER

Ummmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm.......how about some Battery Terminal Cleaner which is available at all autostores.......

Subternal

Hi, Im new to the site and tried to search the forum/threads to find an answer to my question but nothing that really applied so here goes:

I bought a 2002 se 6spd Max w/ 45k mi on it about 2 years ago. I noticed at about 55k miles it would almost run out of oil(maybe a quart or less left) right around 3k miles. Since then I have change or added oil every 3k miles. It now has 102k miles (I do alot of traveling) and of course still burns oil. I never even change my oil at this point I just add more and at change my filter every other oil fill up. Im seriously debating rebuilding my engine. Ive rebuild bike engines and GM truck engines but never import engines and I am having an extremely hard time finding any rebuild kits for 02 max's (VQ35de). My questions are:

Is rebuilding the best option at this point? buying new? buying used?
What are good websites for finding rebuild kits for that make/model/engine?

on a side note I am mainly just using my car for everyday commuting but if Im already rebuilding (possibly) then is there a higher performance option I could think about at this time?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. And I hope I put this question in the right thread.

VQP0WER

You don't even change the oil now?

The 3.5 is known to burn oil. Why would you spend money on a rebuild if you don't even take care of your car now?

Check out the "all motor" section of this site for rebuilding.

Subternal

dont take care of my car?? you lost me.

VQP0WER

Please explain

rocketsled

Is this turbo kit legit? Anyone familiar with this company? Promises of big gains for the 5.5gen. Actually quite tempting if its real.

http://www.speedforceracing.com/prod...aximaturbo.php

Subternal

Ok well I guess I should have been more specific, not quite sure why this matters but... After about every 1000miles I check the oil level and add about a quart or so. So what I meant was by the time it comes to 3k miles I have in theory already changed my oil by adding a quart every 1k miles. I was exaggerating. At roughly the 6k mile point I change the filter. I am feeding this thing enough oil. I was originally curious as to what course of action to take.

maxximaa

iTrader: (10)

got a question for you guys.
k i was looking at a winter tires and wheel package...and i like the 205/55R16.

So i called them up and they said that 205-55-16 wont fit my max(02) while the rep. recommends 215-55-16
i was like ok thanks, then i hung up.

question is...the 205-55-16 fits no problem, correct? the difference would be in price between 205 and 215.

now, would 15" fit too? coz the package price in 15" is very good.

thx

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

205-55-16 will fit, but it is too small, might look goofy, and your speedometer will be a little off. Check the wheel/tire forum section on here and there is a link to a tire calculator as well as related information.

15's will not fir the A33B brakes. Some may, but the offset / wheel design would have to be fairly uncommon.

VQP0WER

With these new tires, his speed will be off by +10%. If the speedo is reading 60, he will be going 53.6mph.

Food for thought.