memphisballer

iTrader: (7)

I had the same exact issue when I purchased strut mounts and struts from a local Oreilly auto parts store.Front end alignment did not help.The only thing that worked was by replacing the mounts with OEM and it worked in my case.When the mounts were removed it looked as though there was a serious rubbing issue going on.Ive got a pic somewhere if you want to see.

Sermax02

Sup guys...I got a problem that I hope you guys can help with...
My idiot brother red line my car in first gear til power cut off
The car stalled out and shut off after that. Tried starting it and it
Just kept stalling out after about 3 seconds...
It finally started and stayed on after about half hour but now the
Car won't rev past 2k rpm without feeling like it's gonna shut off???
HELP!!!!
Preciate any feed back, thanks

TheDonnie77

Hello all. I am new to this and have a question about my 2003 maxima. I got a code P0462 which reads fuel level sensor circuit low input. This is what has been done so far. I have replaced all fuses and relays. I have also replace the fuel pump and fuel level sensor and the code still appears after resetting it. The gas guage is still not working as well. Does anyone have any ideas on what i could do next. In addition i have replace all spark plugs. Coils and camshaft sensors Thank you to anyone who can help

nelledge

iTrader: (6)

Wow, that's a toughie. You may want to review the FSM and grab your multimeter with a side order of patience for this one. Reference EL-128-9. I wish you luck. You may just have a corroded connection.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Fuses, relays, coils, cam sensors have nothing to do with your fuel gauge problem.

Did you use a new sending unit or a used one?

Have you checked continuity on the signal wire from the sending unit back to cluster/ECU? Have you checked for a good ground at the pump/sending unit?

derp

howdy... i'm new here, and new to nissan entirely, much less maximas. But, I own one now, a 2001 SE 5MT. Result of losing my Audi in a flood.

so here's my question. I've done about a half hour of searching, and maybe my forum name speaks for me, but i can't find a darn thing about this issue that potentially may arise.

Does anyone have problems with the oil pan on a lowered vehicle? I noticed it sits pretty low underneath the car, and coming from the Dub (vdub/audi) world, I'm no stranger to ruined oil pans on lowered cars... .I'm just wondering if it's going to be much if at all of an issue on my new not german car.

Thanks in advance!

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Don't drop it ridiculously low, and it won't be a problem. You're more likely to scrape the crossmember first, but that obviously depends on how exactly you hit something.

derp

so something like illuminas and eibachs for a reasonable drop and moderate handling upgrade would be just fine?

djshwini

iTrader: (1)

I want to replace the bulb that illuminates the shift positions (P,R,N,D etc) but I am unsure of how to remove that actual top piece to expose the bulb. After i removed the shifter trim, I tried to just unsnap it but it seems as though there is something that is restricting it from coming out (screw?).
I am referring to this shifter (for 5.5)

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_...0113_large.jpg

nicknails

Does anyone have a recommended OBDII Scanner? I currently have a cheapy that I got a few years ago, but it only shows tripped codes. I'd like one that can do the readiness as well as actual sensor info. Looks like there a lot of them out there.

Kensai

I have a 2003 Maxima and I'm trying to find a part number for the black metal bracket that the EVAP Vapor Canister bolts onto, does anyone happen to know it?

Here's a picture of it:

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

http://www.courtesyparts.com/maxima-...1973_1979.html

MiddleTBabb

Hello all. Not really new but haven't checked in in a long time.

here's my question about the 5th gen:

My 03 has the eibach pro kit. I love the look and the cornering. Can I put the 6th gen 18 inch wheels on it without any major problems? Perhaps with some smaller sized tires?

thanks in advance. and here's a few pics

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

18's shouldn't be a problem. 235/40/18 are a common size for the Maxima, for 7.5" and 8" wide wheels.

stogie12

I've got an 03 maxima. Everything stock. 2 days ago my instrument panel lighting went out. I couldn't find a fuse anywhere on it so after some googling and forum searching found to check the tail light fuse. The fuse was blown but the second I put a new one in, it blows. What causes this. My tail lights are out. Is it normal for tail lights to be connected to the instrument panel lights? O and I'm not sure if it makes a difference but it's a standard

Thanks for any thoughts or ideas.
Much appreciated. I'm clueless on this one

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Are you losing all interior illumination (radio, ashtray, glove box, clock, etc), or just the cluster? You should be losing everything.

Yes, they're supposed to be on the same fuse; interior illumination is only on when the combination switch is set to parking lights or greater, makes sense to power all from the same source.

Does the fuse blow immediately with the lights off, or do you have to turn the parking/head lights on? If immediately, then it could be a bad tail lamp relay, SECU, the wiring between those, or the wiring between the fuse box and the relay.

If only when you turn the lights on, then there's quite a bit more to check.

stogie12

I just went and checked. I lose everything except the radio and clock. They stay lit up but don't dim like I thought they did before this. The stuff that does go out goes out when I turn the lights on.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Are you trying to say the fuse blows when you turn the lights on?

By any chance is the tail light indicator warning light on the cluster lit up?

Did you do anything, have anything done, or did anything happen to the car immediately prior to this happening? Any bulbs replaced, taken in for service, anything?

scout118

That would be great My son is leaving for college in a couple weeks and I need to get it fixed.
Thanks,
Kevin

stogie12

Yea thats what I'm trying to say. And I checked again after dark last night. The radio and clock is always lit up but all the back lights for the buttons on the radio won't come one.
And no there is no indicator on the cluster.
Prior to this happening I have not taken it in besides to get my oil changed a week prior. And no bulbs had to be replaced.

matt06

where is the best place to order the 04 VC for the 5.5 gens that need theirs replaced? DaveB?

how much do they usually go for. also since my spark plugs have oil on a couple ill order a new set of 6

Dominicanaso

iTrader: (4)

I only asked this because i looked through the g35 stickies an its such a dumb question not worth embarasssing myself to post a thread..

Are all G35 10 spokes 19s forged?

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Left side: http://www.courtesyparts.com/13264a-...669_2670_2674&
Right side: http://www.courtesyparts.com/13264-c...4-p-88187.html

Dave may very well be cheaper, though.

Why order the plugs from Nissan? http://www.courtesyparts.com/22401-s...957_1988_1989&

You can probably get them for cheaper locally.

Failing some more specialized test equipment, I'd first start off with unplugging the dimmer switch and trying again. If it doesn't fail then, you know it's in the interior illumination circuit behind the dimmer switch, or the switch itself. Then I'd start getting visually acquainted with all of the harnesses related to the parking lights/illumination, looking for a chafed wire shorting to ground. Tag light harnesses running up to a trunk lid are a common point on many cars to become very worn.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

In addition to all the other suggestions, if you carry heavy items in your trunk, you could have a damaged wire harness. Its also possible that you could have a shorted lightbulb.

stogie12

As soon as I get home I will check all that out. Thank you so much for all the help.

stogie12

Everything still didn't work when I pulled out the dimmer.
Checked harnesses, couldn't find any flaws. Found some stuff saying to check relays.
How do you check if a relay is working?

If anyone has some time on their hands. Check out page 73 of the link below. I'm looking at the 2nd box. Everything says "Check" My question is what does "check" mean. And if I follow the diagram on page 66 how do I know where each physical thing is?

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/2003/el.pdf

For any willing to take this one on, Thank you thank you thank you.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

When you pulled the dimmer switch, you did replace the fuse before checking again, correct?

That diag tree is useless for you, as you already know why they don't work; the fuse blows. You just have to narrow down exactly where.

To test a relay you want to make sure there's continuity on the coil side (pins 85 and 86 on a standard relay), no continuity between the common (pin 30) and NO (pin 87) contacts at rest, and continuity when the coil is energized. You'd also want to check that the NC (pin 87a) contact has continuity to common at rest, if applicable. Check EL-9, there are good images there.

For locations, you can look through 'Electrical Units Location' starting EL-453, or for the specific harness connector, look through the harness layout section starting at EL-460.

If you found nothing obvious, and pulling the dimmer didn't affect the short, next thing I'd do is unplug the tail light subharnesses, the side markers, every exterior light on that circuit (which you can see on EL-70/71). If the fuse still blows, you know it's purely a wiring issue, not a bad component.

Since you don't likely have access to a correctly sized breaker to use in place of a fuse, it'd be a good idea to buy a decent sized pack of 10a fuses in preparation for further troubleshooting.

However, you could use a multimeter with one probe in the triggered side of the relay socket, and the other connected to a ground. The systems obviously wouldn't work without power, but you'd be able to unplug components and see when you lost a direct ground path, indicated by a drastic change in reading on the meter. This would prove easier than constantly replacing the fuse.

trueppp

I dont know where i should post this but here's a hotfile link to A33 service manual...all
years are in there. I would host it myself but i have a bandwith cap, and i cant start a thread yet

http://hotfile.com/dl/125330196/22be...d_Now.rar.html

nelledge

iTrader: (6)

Good find. However, there's no need for you to host it. There are links to the Nissan FSMs on nicoclub. Like this. I'm not sure why we don't have a sticky with this information, though.

trueppp

Don't know either...i got the one for the 4th gen on phatg20 but its now gone....
And i find the 5th gen forum a bit less well organised then the 4th gen.

Oh and my rear driver door will NOT open at all what should i check?

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

You'll have to check the rods inside the door that connect the door handles and the latching/locking mechanism. This will be made more difficult because you need to take the door panel off and you can't open the door to do it.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

No need to download a large RAR that likely isn't even for USDM cars (notice Cefiro in the title, as well as encompassing '99 in A33, which it isn't), just get them individually where everyone else does:

http://boredmder.com/FSMs/
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/

Is there tension when you pull the door handles, or do they just flop around like they aren't connected to anything?

trueppp

For the FSM: they mention US and Canadian harness differences so i would think its USDM and well for me the rar was and is the best way to go, no wifi in my driveway, got a old
laptop i use for that, real practical when your in a pinch. You don't have to go inside to check on what might be in the way or etc..

As for the handle ill have to check tonight, could you advise on both cases?

ChiTeMax

iTrader: (1)

@NMex: Thanks for the input earlier on the wheels. Just bought the 18x8s with Nankang All Season tires. Should arrive sometime next week.

Now another question, Had a tire air valve leak on the front Driver side. While the tire was off and getting fixed. I looked at the front strut, and to my horror saw the dust boot torn in several places. The bottom most two rings were literally just hanging but a small piece of remaining rubber, and almost sitting on the perch.

Is that something to worry about? In the short term? All shocks are OEM. I plan to do Tein within a month or so. Can this wait or do I need to do something about the dust boots right away? Hate to incur another unexpected expense and derail my plans. Thanks guys.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

It's nothing to worry about, the boots aren't really important.

If it feels normal, but nothing happens, it's likely to be the door lock actuator. If there's no resistance at all the rod could've come undone from either end, or the actuator may be broken internally. If they feel normal but don't have the normal range of travel, the rod could be binding up or again, internal actuator problems.

CChilds13

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys, not many posts i know, but i do read up on here quite a bit, anyways ive had my max for about a year now, lowered it with tokico/tein combo, replaced the tie rod ends and the sway bar links and the passenger side axle and that brings me to my question. ive now had to replace my passenger side wheel bearing and hub assembly twice due to premature failure, ive used two different machine shops, two different suppliers for the hub and im pretty sure the bearing itself was the same both times. (might be a POS bearing) machine shops were both legit and told me they do maxima wheel bearings all the time. There seemed to be (or lack there of) the right amount of play once the assembly was pressed together, in other words it was within oem spec, yet im now going to have to replace the assembly a third time! anyone have some advice on other things that might be contributing to the premature failure, etc?

also, im not running spacers, just oem 2k1 wheels with 225/50's

joemauerfan

Hey guys, I'm new here to the forum, I've owned a 2002 Maxima GLE for about a year, its got 84k on it now. Ever since I bought it, when i'm doing 60 MPH or faster and I let off the gas pedal, it feels like it makes a disengaging clunk, then when I get on the gas again, it makes the same clunk again. Just wondering if this is normal? Or is my tranny about to blow? Thanks.

djshwini

iTrader: (1)

I'm sure there are plenty of people that have done this...

rigon28

i cant post threads yet

rigon28

all my car lights flicker