Im new here (duh) and my 5th gen max wont start! 1st sign of trouble was the car starting, then dying within a block. started right back up the first 3 times this happened. I thought it was a temp issue because it was 20 below zero outside.

so I started letting her heat up for 10 minutes before going to work. only happened 1 more time, and this time she wouldn't start for 45 minutes. I go 3 weeks with no issues...

then one day, I let the wife use the car... (cold day again) and I get a call saying the car died about 4 miles away. when I get there it would not start. had it towed to my mechanic and it still wont start. I didnt have the $$$ to fix it and had another vehicle, so it sat until about a month ago. I started asking the mech about it and he thinks its a bad ecu, and stated he checked everything else. before I buy an ecu (that may not fix the problem) i thought id ask here.

Coils? MAF sensor? TPS? what would cause this? its not the battery or anything so simple...

she an 02 auto base maxima. I really need to get her outta the "hospital"! so sad to see her sitting there when I drive up!


is my mechanic crazy or lazy? all the gear-heads I know don't seem to think its the ECU.

Thoughts?

 

im driving a ****ty saturn vue that needs a ton of work done, but I can't take it in until the max is back...HELP!!!!!!

 

Need more info. All you say is that it takes a while to start, and if/when it does, it dies.

Any codes? Hesitation? How does it run when it gets started? Hows the battery? Alternator? Starter? What does it sound/feel like when you're trying to start? Is it cranking? Is it weak?

 

Sounds like ignition to me, getting electricity to the coils when cranking?

 

Replaced right lower control arm today and it feels a ton better. Gonna do all brakes and sway bar links tomorrow.

I did notice that my car seemed sluggish under 4k today. It was 105 outside, but maybe time for new plugs???

 

ok so recently i have replaced the battery the alternator the maf and the fuel pump the problem is i am still haveing the same problems with it what its doing is sometimes it wont start but just crank then you turn it off take the key out and try again and it starts right up now i just wont even start doesnt even try to crank any ideas thoughts or anyone ran into a similar problem ...........update

found the fuse on the positive cable had poped now the car starts but still has a problem where it will crank but not start the first time and start the second time

 

It could be the ignition switch that is attached to the backside of the ignition key cylinder.

 

Did you do a search? A lot of people are seeing this and it seems to be the crankshaft position sensor (the one on the oil filter side of the engine).

I have the same problem and got the sensor. I just need to change it out and see if it really does the trick. Based on other posts, it seems to be the fix.

 

Hello.
Im having this weird issue with my power steering. When the engine is warm, if i turn the wheel all the way in either directions, there is this growling noise. Its not really grinding like, but like a growl. Only happens if i turn the wheel all the way in either direction. This occurs no matter if the car is moving or stationary.

Ive checked the power steering fluid level, its full. Began happening recently. So is my power steering system going? The high pressure hose is not leaking, there are no leaks anywhere.
Thanks.

 

So I just put new front rotors and pads on...I drive the car and smoke from the front brakes.....

I used the old pad and a c clamp to compress the caliper. My only thought is maybe I did it uneven and damaged the seal???

Not sure here..

 

Did you clean the rotors prior to installation?

 

You sure this noise is new? All PS systems will make more noise than normal when turned to full lock, as you're putting more stress on the pump.

Can you get a video or audio clip of the sound?

 

Il upload a video tomorrow.

 

Yea. I actually tried the old pads and new pads. The old pads had a good amount of life left. Still, its making a metal on metal noise and smoke. I also replaced the rattle clips. The new rattle clips were a bit larger than the old. I attempted to make sure there was no friction with the car on a jack, but the rotor wasnt completely flush. Im starting to think maybe I need to put the old clips back on.
Thoughts?

 

Hello... I have tried search and got some intriguing results but nothing what I would say is definitive.

A 2001 GXE, automatic with 115K on the odo.

When I hit the accelerator moderately hard from standstill there's a loud clunk... actually, more of a BANG that you actually feel... as it starts to accelerate. That's it, normal from there on as it accelerates and shifts through the range.

If I accelerate moderate to easy it's normal.... OK, maybe just a HINT of something sometimes. If I put it in 1st at about 15 mph, let off then hit it again fairly hard, BANG there it is again.

Best I can guess it's a motor mount from my searches but I don't know why 'cause no one really nails it. I don't think it's the tranny 'cause it shifts normal otherwise and the fluids pink, clean and clear.

If someone has an idea I'd love to hear... especially an idea about which one.

Oh yeah, the 'electric' part of the mounts have been non-functional since...oh...ever. Should I disconnect them? or leave them hooked up?

 

I ask because the new rotors are coated in an oily substance that will result in smoke and a smell the first few times it's driven if not cleaned off properly.

Can you spin the wheels by hand? Not sure what you mean by the rotor not being flush with the car on a jack.

 

Disconnect the electric motor mounts. now. As for your problem, that sounds exactly like a transmission mount (if we were RWD). I would bet then that it is one of your motor mounts. Any automatic car I've had that had that exactly symptom had a worn mount.

 

Thanks a lot... I was kinda leanin' that way but thought maybe it's cause I couldn't stand the thought of it bein' the trannie! A suggestion as to which it may be? I like not to have to do them all if I could get a way with one only.

Any reason why that's so important? I noticed in my searches a couple other suggestions to do the same... sometimes quite strongly!

Thanks again

 

The electric motor mounts can short out and take out a portion of your ECU, causing idle issues/non running situations.

I couldn't tell you where to look first, but check your main motor mounts on either side of the engine bay and look for wear/cracked rubber/etc. I haven't dealt with this issue myself, someone here will know more.

 

Is second thermostat only sells by dealership? I can't find it in any auto parts stores.

 

I've never tried looking for one, but they are indeed likely a dealer only part, as far as a listing. There's probably a generic thermostat that would work fine in there, but that's something I've never looked in to.

Set the parking brake, put it in gear, hold down the brakes and gas it a little. Have someone in the engine bay watching the mounts, looking for excessive movement. Generally the rear mount goes first, but it's a bit hard to see in the rear of the engine compartment.

What you'll be doing: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iEXKZ...eature=related

An extreme example: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RBXlc...eature=related
And another: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RVwZH...eature=related

 

So i replaced the spark plugs the other day, when I pulled out the back right coil, it was flooded with oil, so I cleaned out the tube changed the plug, the car has all of its power back. I forgot how f-ing fast it was. So I've added valve cover gaskets to the parts list.

 

You mean a valve cover? Valve cover gaskets won't help that oil leak.

 

I gotcha.

With the wheel off it is actually very hard to spin. The pads are contacting the rotor for sure ALL the time.

What I meant was without a nut on to tighten the rotor up, part of it is losse. So its not directly flush.
I had the old rotors turned and am going to put those back on as well as the old clips and see where I am.

 

Well the pads always will be making contact to some degree, but not fully applied. The fronts will also always be harder to turn than the rears due to the axles, and having to spin the diff.

Does it spin easier if you pull the caliper off? If not, you're just feeling normal drag. If it does, then you have to see what exactly is causing the issue, a frozen or sticky slide pin, or a seized up caliper. I've also seen brand new pads that were thicker than OE spec, where they'd barely fit over the rotor with the caliper on.

 

Thanks for the pointer... i did that mine and the motor is rocking quite a bit, maybe as much as that Taurus but that's all. When the accelerator is 'hit' I can hear the BANG a little bit (too afraid to hit it hard!)... and it's very apparent by the movement at the front mount (of car, behind radiator) is moving way too much. So that one's bad I'm sure. I'd bet the firewall one is too.

After I searched on motor mount and ECU... confirms leaving a bad electric mount hooked up is associated with ECU failures. Thanks for the advice! Luckily, I've had mine unhooked ever since mine stopped working way back when. What's unbelievable is I found out the electric mounts aren't the only thing that can take the ECU. The ECU should have protection on all I/O, it's just way too expensive of a part not to. Simply can't believe Nissan would field such a shoddy design.

 

Ill pull the caliper and check that out. The new pads were really close to the old ones. When I have the car on jack stands with the wheel off and am looking at the caliper and watching the pad/rotor contact. The contact doesnt change much, but the pressure obviously increases.

 

Can I have an over heating problem due to air inside? I heard there is a bolt on top of the second thermostat that can be unscrewed to release air.

 

OK, sorry for one more question on this. I seem to have confirmed the front mount at least is shot.

So... can I use motor mounts for manual trans 2k1 Maximas instead of the electric mounts for auto transmission Maximas? Radiator and firewall only. I'm not eager to pay for the electric ones that will just go bad again anyway, possibly taking the ECU.

I have searched but the answers are not clear on this as they are also doing mods for urethane mount inserts.

Thanks very much for the help!

 

Yes, a trapped air pocket can lead to faulty gauge readings or actual overheating, intermittently. I didn't mention it as I assumed you fully bled the system after the thermostat swap.

Yes, there is a bleed valve on top of the secondary thermostat housing. I misspoke earlier about the location of the secondary thermostat, it's on the coolant log, but has a hose that connects to a plate down in the valley.

 

Yes, you can use standard transmission motor mounts. You may feel a little engine vibration when the car is stopped and the transmission is in gear, such as when you are at a stop light.

 

Well, went to my buddy whose a mechanic, confirmed for my rack and pinion dying slowly.

Now i get that whine noise when i turn the wheel. Besides, i have to do my clutch soon, so removing the rack and pinion is going to be easier while the transmission is off. Good thing its still not leaking steering fluid.

 

My 2 12v power plugs don't work in my car, first the one in the front stopped working so i started using the one in the back and now today the one is back stopped working, i tested my iphone charger on other cars today and it works perfectly so it cant be the charger. whats going on?

 

Have you not checked the fuses? Interior fuse box, look for 'cigar lighter' and 'power socket'.

 

My rear brakes are beginning to slightly lock up here and there.
Which brands from rock auto would you guys recommend getting as a replacement? Any advice?

 

DARN.. sorry one more question! Searching for motor mounts does not seem to be easy... have found several on E-Bay but I never feel safe they are exactly right.

Any pointers on good places to get them? Dealer's generally a safe bet of course but my checkbooks a little thin in this recession!

Thanks

 

www.rockauto.com - but the eBay ones are fine too, as long as they're the right ones.

 

Brake issue solved. I ended up turning the front rotors and using the old pads(which were 90%).

 

So your issue of smoke from the front brakes was solved by turning the rear rotors?

That's the only issue I've seen you post about.

 

Im sorry, I meant to say front rotors.

I tried to track it down for 2 hours and then decided to just turn the front rotors instead of replacing them and use the old clips and old pads. Eliminated all the variables that had changed and good to go now.

Not real sure what the issue was, perhaps it was just user error. I double checked and the part numbers are correct.

I thought for a bit that I may have a few bad calipers, but what are the odds of that!!!!! Besides they were fine before. Ive driven 50 miles today and all is well. Ill report back with any issues.
Thanks for all your help on this!