5th Gen "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread
#2041
Originally Posted by mtl-maximus
Hi there everybody!
The service guy said there is a problem with the MAF and beside that 'the engine was programmed for an old man'. I have to admit, I know very little about things like this, I took the bait and accepted the MAF replacement.
Of course I had to pay ~800 US for the whole thing.
The service guy said there is a problem with the MAF and beside that 'the engine was programmed for an old man'. I have to admit, I know very little about things like this, I took the bait and accepted the MAF replacement.
Of course I had to pay ~800 US for the whole thing.
I dont think you can program an ECU for better gas mileage or performance. They do, however, learn your driving habits, and adjust fuel delivery accordingly.
Originally Posted by mtl-maximus
Since then the gas consumption went up like crazy, being ~25% higher than before changing the MAF and reprogramming the computer.
As for the rest of it, I have learned with modern automobiles, anything is possible. My Maxima spent two weeks at the dealer for them to try and figure out why it intermittently would not start. In the end, it was corrosion between the engine and trans. Who would have figured that?
But a partially dead ECU sounds a little fishy to me. If you can, I would go to another dealer and get a second opinion.
And to keep your ECU from getting "conservative" in the future, if you want to keep the power, you have to use it. WOT regularly. That will blow carbon build-up out off the pistons as well.
#2042
Originally Posted by ajamil
Ok, here is the situation. I recently purchased an '00 maxima for a very good deal, has 200,000 KM no check engine light, clean inside and out, beautiful Glacier Pearl paint job...
Symptoms of the unknown problem are:
1) 8 KM / L (roughly 19 MPG)
2) 0-60MPH in 9 Secs. (Way below the average 7.5 secs. that I see others get)
3) Between 2500 and 3500 RPM I feel a drag when flooring it. (Like something is holding the car back)
I recently got a highmileage oil change. Did a 4 step emissions cleaning (which includes seafoaming), did not help at all.
Is this a MAF issue?? I've been reading that airflow and dirty sensors are the culprit of most gas mileage and acceleration problems, but others with the same problem did not notice a change. I took a look at my MAF and it looked clean to me.
What else could I do to diagnose the problem?
I would really appreciate any suggestions or advice.
Thanks!!!!!!!
Symptoms of the unknown problem are:
1) 8 KM / L (roughly 19 MPG)
2) 0-60MPH in 9 Secs. (Way below the average 7.5 secs. that I see others get)
3) Between 2500 and 3500 RPM I feel a drag when flooring it. (Like something is holding the car back)
I recently got a highmileage oil change. Did a 4 step emissions cleaning (which includes seafoaming), did not help at all.
Is this a MAF issue?? I've been reading that airflow and dirty sensors are the culprit of most gas mileage and acceleration problems, but others with the same problem did not notice a change. I took a look at my MAF and it looked clean to me.
What else could I do to diagnose the problem?
I would really appreciate any suggestions or advice.
Thanks!!!!!!!
Another thing to try, pull the spark plugs and see if any/all are fouled. (They will be jet black) Or if they are white (I dont remember what that indicates, but I know it isnt good.) Spark plugs are cheap fix if you can turn a wrench, and not a bad idea to replace them anyway with that many miles.
Seafoam has to be the one of the biggest scams out there. I cannot possibly see how that could not damage something. I have never used it but with all that smoke, and people saying how their engines are barely running and shaking madly while the stuff is in there...
Welcome to the club. I have 165k on mine, and she runs better than the day I got her.
#2043
Originally Posted by fldash
One of the rear tail lights (passenger side) has a broken seal with moisture in it. Do I simply replace the whole light? Also, the brake lights on my spoiler do not work? Is that an easy fix or ? ? ?
After you finally get it out, you are on your own, I have no idea how to find the leak if there is one. If you find one, just get some plastic repair putty. I would make sure it is epoxy based. Or go to courtesynissan.com. They sell new 02 taillights right on the website for a reasonable price. And it will have the new sealant on it already. (or it may be on a strip that you press into place.)
Originally Posted by fldash
It seems to run well, no check engine light and no other issue except that I'm not used to driving a car and I'm feeling afraid of it...
Originally Posted by fldash
How do I know if I need new brakes or rotors? I THINK I'm having some vibrations when I step on the brake, but I'm not sure as I'm really paranoid since I just bought it. My uncle once told me to replace the brakes when I heard them squeal/squeak; none of that coming from this car....
That is pretty much it. Start with the fronts. That should get rid of your vibration. If not, then do the back.
Sqeaking/squealing is not a sign that your brakes need to be replaced. It is high frequency vibration between the back of the pad and the brake piston (which the aforementioned disc brake quiet mostly eliminates) and it is inherent to disc brakes. If you can live with the sound, it is not damaging in any way to your brakes.
Screeching, on the other hand, is a sign that your pads are down to the wear indicators, and every time you apply the brakes you are damaging your rotors.
Originally Posted by fldash
It has 116k miles on it...
Originally Posted by fldash
Oh, one more question, how does this trip mileage work, or does it? I haven't yet looked in the manual but I reset both Trips odometers when I got it and checked them when getting to work this morning. Showed 25.3 mpg with about 80% highway, 20% city, does that seem right; or is that mileage very generous?
Originally Posted by fldash
Edit: I'm not a new driver... I'm 28, but have driven only trucks and SUVs until now...
#2044
Originally Posted by irish44j
it is extremely easy. Undo two bolts on the top in the engine bay, unplug harness from bulbs, pull light out. Install is reverse of removal. Make sure to line up the tab/stud on the outside of the light that goes into the fender.
I appreciate it, it sounds like something I would have no idea doing. I was looking at it the other day and it seemed pretty easy.
I also wanted to ask if I use a replacement brand, not Nissan brand is there going to be any headlamp issues?
#2045
P0158 & P0159
So I looked at the SES codes thread and followed the link for P0158 ( same as P0159 ) - http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...&postcount=100 .But there wasn't any real mention of this code specifically.
Now as far as i understand, the Bank 2 sensors are after the cat, and only monitor the cats functionality (or lack there of).. So would i be safe not replacing the sensor and clearing the error from the ECU? Do i have to go to the dealer to clear it?
Now as far as i understand, the Bank 2 sensors are after the cat, and only monitor the cats functionality (or lack there of).. So would i be safe not replacing the sensor and clearing the error from the ECU? Do i have to go to the dealer to clear it?
#2046
Originally Posted by irish44j
yeah it would. Because n00bs never actually READ the stickies.
We keep it floating free so it's in the middle of all the "hot" threads at all times
We keep it floating free so it's in the middle of all the "hot" threads at all times
#2048
Originally Posted by Torgus
Link to how to clear my wing's brake light on my 03 max...
Oh wait...are you ASKING for a link?
If so, be more polite and say "pretty please."
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/211310/8
#2049
Originally Posted by irish44j
I don't see a link....where is it?
Oh wait...are you ASKING for a link?
If so, be more polite and say "pretty please."
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/211310/8
Oh wait...are you ASKING for a link?
If so, be more polite and say "pretty please."
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/211310/8
and dam your fast searching skillz...i couldnt find it
#2050
Originally Posted by soonerfan
a simple question mark would have made it more clear
and dam your fast searching skillz...i couldnt find it
and dam your fast searching skillz...i couldnt find it
#2052
Originally Posted by JimmyH
Bad MAF will do that. $800 seems high to me though.
I dont think you can program an ECU for better gas mileage or performance. They do, however, learn your driving habits, and adjust fuel delivery accordingly.
If they reset the ECU, it is going to "clear out" how the computer maps fuel delivery. So if it was delivering fuel conservatively before (which would explain why your car was slower) lower fuel economy now that it is back to default would make sense. I can verify this because my 2000 SE is alot faster than my mom's 2001 SE, and the difference is more than can be accounted for by a torque converter. Her's doesnt have that oomph.
As for the rest of it, I have learned with modern automobiles, anything is possible. My Maxima spent two weeks at the dealer for them to try and figure out why it intermittently would not start. In the end, it was corrosion between the engine and trans. Who would have figured that?
But a partially dead ECU sounds a little fishy to me. If you can, I would go to another dealer and get a second opinion.
And to keep your ECU from getting "conservative" in the future, if you want to keep the power, you have to use it. WOT regularly. That will blow carbon build-up out off the pistons as well.
I dont think you can program an ECU for better gas mileage or performance. They do, however, learn your driving habits, and adjust fuel delivery accordingly.
If they reset the ECU, it is going to "clear out" how the computer maps fuel delivery. So if it was delivering fuel conservatively before (which would explain why your car was slower) lower fuel economy now that it is back to default would make sense. I can verify this because my 2000 SE is alot faster than my mom's 2001 SE, and the difference is more than can be accounted for by a torque converter. Her's doesnt have that oomph.
As for the rest of it, I have learned with modern automobiles, anything is possible. My Maxima spent two weeks at the dealer for them to try and figure out why it intermittently would not start. In the end, it was corrosion between the engine and trans. Who would have figured that?
But a partially dead ECU sounds a little fishy to me. If you can, I would go to another dealer and get a second opinion.
And to keep your ECU from getting "conservative" in the future, if you want to keep the power, you have to use it. WOT regularly. That will blow carbon build-up out off the pistons as well.
What a noticed after the MAF was replaced was the engine RPM's went up compared to what it was before (I hope this makes sense). Let's say at 60 mph it used to be 2000rpm when driving on the highway. After, it was 2400rpm for 15-20min then was slowly going back towards 2000rpm.
I'm saying this because before entering the highway on my way to work, I have to drive the car through the city (lights, stop signs, etc) for about 10 min. It was like the car was entering the normal running mode way much slower than before.
Now about the half-dead ECU, can I ask the dealer for the burned one back?
Do they have to keep it?
Thanks again!
#2053
Originally Posted by mtl-maximus
After, it was 2400rpm for 15-20min then was slowly going back towards 2000rpm.
Originally Posted by mtl-maximus
Now about the half-dead ECU, can I ask the dealer for the burned one back?
Do they have to keep it?
Do they have to keep it?
#2054
Originally Posted by JimmyH
That can only mean your torque converter was not locking.
Like I said I don't know much about this kind of stuff.
What has caused this? Does this mean something else is defective?
Is it easy to fix? How much would it cost?
#2055
Originally Posted by mtl-maximus
Thanks again JimmyH.
Like I said I don't know much about this kind of stuff.
What has caused this? Does this mean something else is defective?
Is it easy to fix? How much would it cost?
Like I said I don't know much about this kind of stuff.
What has caused this? Does this mean something else is defective?
Is it easy to fix? How much would it cost?
I would just go to the dealer. But then I am lucky, my family has bought over a dozen cars from the dealer, and have a direct link to the GM. So we always get good service. And when we dont, we call the GM and he fixes it.
#2056
Originally Posted by JimmyH
I dont know much about automatics, I have been driving standards my whole life(well, since 15 anyway). I know until the torque converter locks, engine speed relative to vehicle speed is variable based on load. In the old days, the torque converter locked when a hydraulic valve opened (or closed?) based on throttle position, engine speed, etc, etc. Now it is done electronically. So probably the ECU is what is causing it.
I would just go to the dealer. But then I am lucky, my family has bought over a dozen cars from the dealer, and have a direct link to the GM. So we always get good service. And when we dont, we call the GM and he fixes it.
I would just go to the dealer. But then I am lucky, my family has bought over a dozen cars from the dealer, and have a direct link to the GM. So we always get good service. And when we dont, we call the GM and he fixes it.
I just have a strange feeling every time I take my car to the dealership, like they're always trying to rip you off. I just wish I could find some garage / good mechanic that I can trust here in Montreal.
See the labor estimates they gave me, they seem unrealistic to me.
Anyway, I'm glad I found you, guys. This place is great!
#2057
Originally Posted by irish44j
I don't see a link....where is it?
Oh wait...are you ASKING for a link?
If so, be more polite and say "pretty please."
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/211310/8
Oh wait...are you ASKING for a link?
If so, be more polite and say "pretty please."
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/211310/8
#2058
Shift Lock Mechanism functionality
I have a question about the shift lock system in my car, an '02 Infiniti I35.
When the shifter is in park and I apply the brake, I feel a click in the shifter (I guess that's some kind of actuator) and I can then move the shifter to D or R, or whatever gear I want.
What I notice, is this clicking sound continues to happen everytime I press the brake, even if I'm in D! So I could be cruising down the road at 40mph, see a red light ahead, apply my brakes, and I feel the same click in my shifter (I hold my shifter at all times since I'm so cool). Should this mechanism continue to work even when not in P (park)?
My Pathfinder doesn't do this, it clicks only if in Park. Just wondering if you guys notice the same thing in your cars?
Joe.
When the shifter is in park and I apply the brake, I feel a click in the shifter (I guess that's some kind of actuator) and I can then move the shifter to D or R, or whatever gear I want.
What I notice, is this clicking sound continues to happen everytime I press the brake, even if I'm in D! So I could be cruising down the road at 40mph, see a red light ahead, apply my brakes, and I feel the same click in my shifter (I hold my shifter at all times since I'm so cool). Should this mechanism continue to work even when not in P (park)?
My Pathfinder doesn't do this, it clicks only if in Park. Just wondering if you guys notice the same thing in your cars?
Joe.
#2059
Nokya Stage 1 Arctic White Headlight Bulb
Hello, a couple days ago I bought some Nokya Arctic White headlight bulbs on eBay. Under the specs, it said its consume wattage was 45/60W and it says it has an output of 60/75W. Would it be safe for me to put these in now or should I wait and buy a wiring harness? Here's the link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...5329335&rd=1,1
#2060
Originally Posted by sirmixalot42691
Hello, a couple days ago I bought some Nokya Arctic White headlight bulbs on eBay. Under the specs, it said its consume wattage was 45/60W and it says it has an output of 60/75W. Would it be safe for me to put these in now or should I wait and buy a wiring harness? Here's the link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...5329335&rd=1,1
So to answer your question: yes, you will be fine with them and do not need a new harness.
#2061
Originally Posted by The Hulio
I have a question about the shift lock system in my car, an '02 Infiniti I35.
When the shifter is in park and I apply the brake, I feel a click in the shifter (I guess that's some kind of actuator) and I can then move the shifter to D or R, or whatever gear I want.
What I notice, is this clicking sound continues to happen everytime I press the brake, even if I'm in D! So I could be cruising down the road at 40mph, see a red light ahead, apply my brakes, and I feel the same click in my shifter (I hold my shifter at all times since I'm so cool). Should this mechanism continue to work even when not in P (park)?
My Pathfinder doesn't do this, it clicks only if in Park. Just wondering if you guys notice the same thing in your cars?
Joe.
When the shifter is in park and I apply the brake, I feel a click in the shifter (I guess that's some kind of actuator) and I can then move the shifter to D or R, or whatever gear I want.
What I notice, is this clicking sound continues to happen everytime I press the brake, even if I'm in D! So I could be cruising down the road at 40mph, see a red light ahead, apply my brakes, and I feel the same click in my shifter (I hold my shifter at all times since I'm so cool). Should this mechanism continue to work even when not in P (park)?
My Pathfinder doesn't do this, it clicks only if in Park. Just wondering if you guys notice the same thing in your cars?
Joe.
if you turn up your stereo, you wont hear it.
#2062
Shift Lock Pii
I also have the same clicking noise but it isn't all the time. I always thought it was some sort of linkage rubbing. This was one of the problems I first searched for but found no resolve either. Did you check the manual? That's always a good place to start.
#2063
Originally Posted by SiLvErBaCk82
I also have the same clicking noise but it isn't all the time. I always thought it was some sort of linkage rubbing. This was one of the problems I first searched for but found no resolve either. Did you check the manual? That's always a good place to start.
#2070
Okay, I need help. I've had my max for less than a week and my check engine light just came on... I tried to perform this:
http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...0&postcount=91
And if I did it correct this is what my SES light was doing, did I go far enough?
10 fairly slow blinks,
10 fast blinks,
10 fast blinks,
10 fast blinks
Can anyone help?
http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...0&postcount=91
And if I did it correct this is what my SES light was doing, did I go far enough?
10 fairly slow blinks,
10 fast blinks,
10 fast blinks,
10 fast blinks
Can anyone help?
#2071
Please help, the Stealership is trying to suck me dry!
Hi all, I know I am a newbie, but I have done a lot of research about my problem on this site, so as not to **** anyone off.
I have a 2k2 6 speed with 60k. I have owned a 93,97 and an 01 until someone creamed me in an icestorm. I just bought this car, and I love it. But, I changed my oil recently, and now things have gone to hell. When I changed the oil, I pulled a plug to check the condition of them. I replaced the plug and cable, and wiped the engine down. I then started to drive the car to my friends house, I slowed down to a light, and my rpm's bottomed out, and then jumped to 200 rpms, and was running really rough. Then, my ses light came on and started blinking, which scared the hell out of me. I thought I had broken the cable, which was causing the misfiring. Anyway, I did all the research on this type of problem, but I tested the front three plugs and found the resistance and continuity were in spec. I changed the fuel filter, and put in some injector cleaner, and something happened. Then, If I babied the car, not letting the gears get above 2500 before I shifted, and did nice easy downshifting, the idle would be fine, infact, better than it was before this started. But if I let the engine loose, then the next time I came to an idle, it would bottom out again. I went to the dealership, and they said I needed 6 new ignition wires, and a camshaft sensor. How could those things go bad after a simple oil change? I reset my ecu with the sequence I found on this forum. Anyway, now, my car runs fine, even if I let it loose it keeps a perfect idle and doesnt do it anymore. Should I still replace the wires? Could my MAF be the root? not letting enough air into the engine at idle after high rpms? I just dont want to hurt the engine. Thanks in advance
I have a 2k2 6 speed with 60k. I have owned a 93,97 and an 01 until someone creamed me in an icestorm. I just bought this car, and I love it. But, I changed my oil recently, and now things have gone to hell. When I changed the oil, I pulled a plug to check the condition of them. I replaced the plug and cable, and wiped the engine down. I then started to drive the car to my friends house, I slowed down to a light, and my rpm's bottomed out, and then jumped to 200 rpms, and was running really rough. Then, my ses light came on and started blinking, which scared the hell out of me. I thought I had broken the cable, which was causing the misfiring. Anyway, I did all the research on this type of problem, but I tested the front three plugs and found the resistance and continuity were in spec. I changed the fuel filter, and put in some injector cleaner, and something happened. Then, If I babied the car, not letting the gears get above 2500 before I shifted, and did nice easy downshifting, the idle would be fine, infact, better than it was before this started. But if I let the engine loose, then the next time I came to an idle, it would bottom out again. I went to the dealership, and they said I needed 6 new ignition wires, and a camshaft sensor. How could those things go bad after a simple oil change? I reset my ecu with the sequence I found on this forum. Anyway, now, my car runs fine, even if I let it loose it keeps a perfect idle and doesnt do it anymore. Should I still replace the wires? Could my MAF be the root? not letting enough air into the engine at idle after high rpms? I just dont want to hurt the engine. Thanks in advance
#2072
Originally Posted by fldash
Okay, I need help. I've had my max for less than a week and my check engine light just came on... I tried to perform this:
http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...0&postcount=91
And if I did it correct this is what my SES light was doing, did I go far enough?
10 fairly slow blinks,
10 fast blinks,
10 fast blinks,
10 fast blinks
Can anyone help?
http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...0&postcount=91
And if I did it correct this is what my SES light was doing, did I go far enough?
10 fairly slow blinks,
10 fast blinks,
10 fast blinks,
10 fast blinks
Can anyone help?
#2073
There isn't an autozone near me, which is why I chose to try it this way.... Can it be dangerous to drive it with the SES light on until I have a chance to go by an autozone? The SES light is no longer on after I performed this also...
Originally Posted by soonerfan
just take it to autozone and they will pull the code for free
#2074
Originally Posted by fldash
There isn't an autozone near me, which is why I chose to try it this way.... Can it be dangerous to drive it with the SES light on until I have a chance to go by an autozone? The SES light is no longer on after I performed this also...
99% of the time, the light is for an emissions problem. you will get bad gas mileage but it wont hurt anything.
it might be a ghost code. if it comes back on a a couple days, go get it checked.
#2075
When I changed the oil, I pulled a plug to check the condition of them. I replaced the plug and cable,
and wiped the engine down.
I then started to drive the car to my friends house, I slowed down to a light, and my rpm's bottomed out, and then jumped to 200 rpms, and was running really rough. Then, my ses light came on and started blinking, which scared the hell out of me.
I thought I had broken the cable, which was causing the misfiring.
Anyway, I did all the research on this type of problem, but I tested the front three plugs and found the resistance and continuity were in spec.
I changed the fuel filter, and put in some injector cleaner, and something happened. Then, If I babied the car, not letting the gears get above 2500 before I shifted, and did nice easy downshifting, the idle would be fine, infact, better than it was before this started.
But if I let the engine loose,
then the next time I came to an idle, it would bottom out again. I went to the dealership, and they said I needed 6 new ignition wires, and a camshaft sensor.
How could those things go bad after a simple oil change?
I reset my ecu with the sequence I found on this forum. Anyway, now, my car runs fine, even if I let it loose it keeps a perfect idle and doesnt do it anymore. Should I still replace the wires?
Could my MAF be the root?
not letting enough air into the engine at idle after high rpms?
I just dont want to hurt the engine. Thanks in advance
#2078
Originally Posted by soonerfan
who would do that...stupid idea
#2079
Originally Posted by Bufflomike
LMFAO, Sooner, where did you buy those emblems from anyway? I am just too lazy to search all over the internet for an exact match and I want to be just like you...so cmon just tell me.