JimmyH

iTrader: (2)

Bad MAF will do that. $800 seems high to me though.

I dont think you can program an ECU for better gas mileage or performance. They do, however, learn your driving habits, and adjust fuel delivery accordingly.

If they reset the ECU, it is going to "clear out" how the computer maps fuel delivery. So if it was delivering fuel conservatively before (which would explain why your car was slower) lower fuel economy now that it is back to default would make sense. I can verify this because my 2000 SE is alot faster than my mom's 2001 SE, and the difference is more than can be accounted for by a torque converter. Her's doesnt have that oomph.

As for the rest of it, I have learned with modern automobiles, anything is possible. My Maxima spent two weeks at the dealer for them to try and figure out why it intermittently would not start. In the end, it was corrosion between the engine and trans. Who would have figured that?

But a partially dead ECU sounds a little fishy to me. If you can, I would go to another dealer and get a second opinion.

And to keep your ECU from getting "conservative" in the future, if you want to keep the power, you have to use it. WOT regularly. That will blow carbon build-up out off the pistons as well.

JimmyH

iTrader: (2)

MAF is a good bet. Could also be the ignition coils. Unfortuneatly there is no way to test them. (For you and me anyway.)

Another thing to try, pull the spark plugs and see if any/all are fouled. (They will be jet black) Or if they are white (I dont remember what that indicates, but I know it isnt good.) Spark plugs are cheap fix if you can turn a wrench, and not a bad idea to replace them anyway with that many miles.

Seafoam has to be the one of the biggest scams out there. I cannot possibly see how that could not damage something. I have never used it but with all that smoke, and people saying how their engines are barely running and shaking madly while the stuff is in there...

Welcome to the club. I have 165k on mine, and she runs better than the day I got her.

JimmyH

iTrader: (2)

You have to remove, or pull back the trunk sidewall liners. There are four nuts (I think it is four) to remove. You will then see the studs sticking in, those are attached to the taillight. Now is the fun part. You have to push like the hades, and them some more, and then some more. And just when you think it is loose, you are about 1/3 of the way. Keep going. There is sealant all around the taillight between it and the 1/4panel. (Which you should replace by the way.)

After you finally get it out, you are on your own, I have no idea how to find the leak if there is one. If you find one, just get some plastic repair putty. I would make sure it is epoxy based. Or go to courtesynissan.com. They sell new 02 taillights right on the website for a reasonable price. And it will have the new sealant on it already. (or it may be on a strip that you press into place.)

Respect it, but don't be afraid of it... this is not the best handling sedan out there, not by a long shot. But it is ONE OF THE MOST responsive. 5th gens don't suddenly lose traction. Unless you have really cheap tires, they give you warning. (within reason) Altimas, 6th gen Max, Accord, and Jetta do not. Ease into it. Find a turn (or better, highway ramp) that you are comfortable with, and push it a little farther each time. Coming from SUV's this is going to feel like a sports car to you.

If it vibrates only when you apply the brakes, your rotors are either warped, or more likely, coated with brake pad residue. Either way means they need to be turned or replaced. If you can turn a wrench, replace the rotors and pads yourself. Jack up the car and remove the wheel. You will see the bolts you need to remove on the calipers (if unsure, search the stickies, there are bound to be pictures.) Remove the calipers. Get a bucket or something to rest it on, so you dont have to remove the brake lines. Pull the two pads out. Get some disc brake quiet (in blue packets at most auto part stores) and spread it on the BACK of the new pads (side facing away from the rotor). Replace the shims and put back in the calipers. Pull the rotor off, may need to tap from the back with a mallet, and put the new one on. (I always go new, not much more than getting one turned) Then put the caliper back on. Then get someone to step on the brake pedal while you quickly open and reclose (less than a second) the bleeder valve. Do that about 5-6 times until no bubbles come out. You can skip bleeding, and still drive the car. If a little air got in the system (it will be very small if any at all) the worst is the pedal will be a little mushy. You can go back and bleed it later. If the piston did not move while you were working (unlikely), you dont have to bleed it at all.

That is pretty much it. Start with the fronts. That should get rid of your vibration. If not, then do the back.

Sqeaking/squealing is not a sign that your brakes need to be replaced. It is high frequency vibration between the back of the pad and the brake piston (which the aforementioned disc brake quiet mostly eliminates) and it is inherent to disc brakes. If you can live with the sound, it is not damaging in any way to your brakes.

Screeching, on the other hand, is a sign that your pads are down to the wear indicators, and every time you apply the brakes you are damaging your rotors.

Standard or auto? If its an auto, pay attention to it. You most likely will have no problems, but I have heard of autos failing at less than 100k.

That is about right. I get anywhere from 26-27 with that mix when I am behaving.

You made the right move. My wife has a Pilot, and I drive it as seldom as I can. There is nothing like a sedan for the right compromise of utility, efficiency, and fun!

ATLienGeorgia

I appreciate it, it sounds like something I would have no idea doing. I was looking at it the other day and it seemed pretty easy.

I also wanted to ask if I use a replacement brand, not Nissan brand is there going to be any headlamp issues?

harpua

So I looked at the SES codes thread and followed the link for P0158 ( same as P0159 ) - http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...&postcount=100 .But there wasn't any real mention of this code specifically.

Now as far as i understand, the Bank 2 sensors are after the cat, and only monitor the cats functionality (or lack there of).. So would i be safe not replacing the sensor and clearing the error from the ECU? Do i have to go to the dealer to clear it?

Bufflomike

Thanks to Irish and LA who always respond with helpful suggestions and answers to questions they have answered 15 tiimes already.

Torgus

iTrader: (10)

Link to how to clear my wing's brake light on my 03 max...

irish44j

iTrader: (38)

I don't see a link....where is it?

Oh wait...are you ASKING for a link?

If so, be more polite and say "pretty please."

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/211310/8

SoonerFan

iTrader: (5)

a simple question mark would have made it more clear

and dam your fast searching skillz...i couldnt find it

irish44j

iTrader: (38)

you lose. It's in the freakin HOW-TO stickies

SoonerFan

iTrader: (5)

my search kept timing out

i was trying to post the link to get some of your leg humpers

mtl-maximus

Thank you very much for your answer!
What a noticed after the MAF was replaced was the engine RPM's went up compared to what it was before (I hope this makes sense). Let's say at 60 mph it used to be 2000rpm when driving on the highway. After, it was 2400rpm for 15-20min then was slowly going back towards 2000rpm.
I'm saying this because before entering the highway on my way to work, I have to drive the car through the city (lights, stop signs, etc) for about 10 min. It was like the car was entering the normal running mode way much slower than before.

Now about the half-dead ECU, can I ask the dealer for the burned one back?
Do they have to keep it?

Thanks again!

JimmyH

iTrader: (2)

That can only mean your torque converter was not locking.

It is your ECU, you own it, they should give it back if you ask. I dont know what you are going to do with it.

mtl-maximus

Thanks again JimmyH.
Like I said I don't know much about this kind of stuff.
What has caused this? Does this mean something else is defective?
Is it easy to fix? How much would it cost?

JimmyH

iTrader: (2)

I dont know much about automatics, I have been driving standards my whole life(well, since 15 anyway). I know until the torque converter locks, engine speed relative to vehicle speed is variable based on load. In the old days, the torque converter locked when a hydraulic valve opened (or closed?) based on throttle position, engine speed, etc, etc. Now it is done electronically. So probably the ECU is what is causing it.

I would just go to the dealer. But then I am lucky, my family has bought over a dozen cars from the dealer, and have a direct link to the GM. So we always get good service. And when we dont, we call the GM and he fixes it.

mtl-maximus

Makes sense.
I just have a strange feeling every time I take my car to the dealership, like they're always trying to rip you off. I just wish I could find some garage / good mechanic that I can trust here in Montreal.
See the labor estimates they gave me, they seem unrealistic to me.
Anyway, I'm glad I found you, guys. This place is great!

Torgus

iTrader: (10)

sorry i asked before an no one responded. i usually try to be more polite when i ask questions.

The Hulio

I have a question about the shift lock system in my car, an '02 Infiniti I35.

When the shifter is in park and I apply the brake, I feel a click in the shifter (I guess that's some kind of actuator) and I can then move the shifter to D or R, or whatever gear I want.

What I notice, is this clicking sound continues to happen everytime I press the brake, even if I'm in D! So I could be cruising down the road at 40mph, see a red light ahead, apply my brakes, and I feel the same click in my shifter (I hold my shifter at all times since I'm so cool). Should this mechanism continue to work even when not in P (park)?

My Pathfinder doesn't do this, it clicks only if in Park. Just wondering if you guys notice the same thing in your cars?

Joe.

sirmixalot42691

iTrader: (4)

Hello, a couple days ago I bought some Nokya Arctic White headlight bulbs on eBay. Under the specs, it said its consume wattage was 45/60W and it says it has an output of 60/75W. Would it be safe for me to put these in now or should I wait and buy a wiring harness? Here's the link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...5329335&rd=1,1

irish44j

iTrader: (38)

that "increased output" stuff is garbage. They are 60W bulbs and that's what they put out. You can't put out more than you consume! It's just a marketing ploy.

So to answer your question: yes, you will be fine with them and do not need a new harness.

SoonerFan

iTrader: (5)

its normal...........
if you turn up your stereo, you wont hear it.

SiLvErBaCk82

I also have the same clicking noise but it isn't all the time. I always thought it was some sort of linkage rubbing. This was one of the problems I first searched for but found no resolve either. Did you check the manual? That's always a good place to start.

SEmy2K2go

iTrader: (10)

It's a normal behavor. There is no resolve.

BMWHIGH1

Does Anyone Know Were The 02/03 Gle Should Idle At In Park Or At A Stop Light?

BMWHIGH1

Well Does Anyone Know Where An 02/03 Gxe, Se, Automatic Idles?

slickrick

iTrader: (12)

between 650-800???

SoonerFan

iTrader: (5)

~650RPM ..........

alicious

iTrader: (8)

*edit*

question was already answered

BMWHIGH1

Thank you for the information, so i know there is nothing wrong with my car

fldash

Okay, I need help. I've had my max for less than a week and my check engine light just came on... I tried to perform this:

http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...0&postcount=91

And if I did it correct this is what my SES light was doing, did I go far enough?

10 fairly slow blinks,
10 fast blinks,
10 fast blinks,
10 fast blinks

Can anyone help?

bwinter7

Hi all, I know I am a newbie, but I have done a lot of research about my problem on this site, so as not to **** anyone off.
I have a 2k2 6 speed with 60k. I have owned a 93,97 and an 01 until someone creamed me in an icestorm. I just bought this car, and I love it. But, I changed my oil recently, and now things have gone to hell. When I changed the oil, I pulled a plug to check the condition of them. I replaced the plug and cable, and wiped the engine down. I then started to drive the car to my friends house, I slowed down to a light, and my rpm's bottomed out, and then jumped to 200 rpms, and was running really rough. Then, my ses light came on and started blinking, which scared the hell out of me. I thought I had broken the cable, which was causing the misfiring. Anyway, I did all the research on this type of problem, but I tested the front three plugs and found the resistance and continuity were in spec. I changed the fuel filter, and put in some injector cleaner, and something happened. Then, If I babied the car, not letting the gears get above 2500 before I shifted, and did nice easy downshifting, the idle would be fine, infact, better than it was before this started. But if I let the engine loose, then the next time I came to an idle, it would bottom out again. I went to the dealership, and they said I needed 6 new ignition wires, and a camshaft sensor. How could those things go bad after a simple oil change? I reset my ecu with the sequence I found on this forum. Anyway, now, my car runs fine, even if I let it loose it keeps a perfect idle and doesnt do it anymore. Should I still replace the wires? Could my MAF be the root? not letting enough air into the engine at idle after high rpms? I just dont want to hurt the engine. Thanks in advance

SoonerFan

iTrader: (5)

just take it to autozone and they will pull the code for free

fldash

There isn't an autozone near me, which is why I chose to try it this way.... Can it be dangerous to drive it with the SES light on until I have a chance to go by an autozone? The SES light is no longer on after I performed this also...

SoonerFan

iTrader: (5)

no autozone? they are everywhere in OKC.

99% of the time, the light is for an emissions problem. you will get bad gas mileage but it wont hurt anything.

it might be a ghost code. if it comes back on a a couple days, go get it checked.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Cable? Do you mean coil?


Need details of this. Are you sure you didn't get water into anything?

This means you have a misfire(multiple cylinder).


You mean coil?

Why not check the 3 rear?

This portion of your post seems to point to a MAF problem.

What does that mean?


Check the cam sensor (specs)


They may have already been bad.

They're not wires. I'm going to scold you because you stated yourself this is your 3rd VQ and you still didn't know that.

I would imagine so. I would go to a local AutoZone and have the codes read and see exactly what codes are popping up.

Stop with the theory making and just check and see what codes are popping up.

It's quite advanced and essentially wont let you hurt it(aside from burning all of it's oil). Hence why you cannot rev over 2500 RPM whenever a MAF is 'bad'

SE My 6sp

Any where i can buy A33 emblems or somethin u gotta make????

SoonerFan

iTrader: (5)

who would do that...stupid idea

Bufflomike

LMFAO, Sooner, where did you buy those emblems from anyway? I am just too lazy to search all over the internet for an exact match and I want to be just like you...so cmon just tell me.

SoonerFan

iTrader: (5)

i forgot the website

hotjiggaman

can you mix the bosch n 02stock sensor together? or replace all 4