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Long time lurker, I always come here first for awesome fixes with my 03. This page has helped me save so much money.
Anyhoo. I'm replacing the window motor, on the front drivers side, it's completely dead. The window is completely up (closed), how do I get it down so I can remove it? I have the instructions on how to remove the motor but that's if the window is down...well, mine isn't.
I have googled every possible variation on how to do this, and all i get is how to get it manually "rolled" up, but nothing on how to get it down. Ideas?
Thanks!
I'm missing something here. With the window glass up, you have access to the 3 bolts that hold the motor on to the regulator. Remove the 3 bolts, unplug the wire harness and remove it.
Fellas, been lurking and abusing the search button for a while now. **** got real a few days ago so I joined last night and posted up in intros. Had a similar (I'm assuming) Alternator issue as some but not identical to any of the 100 threads I read. 2002 GLE A/T with now 198k I bought about 4mo ago. Very clean and has been running flawless until 6 days ago. Hit the interstate and after about 10min set cruise at 72. About 5min later, lost power and dash lit up 4 lights w/no SES. Coaster up an off ramp that was graciasl located. Car never did and was able to go a few mph. Pull over. Thought well ****. Turned it off. Fired right back up. Idle perfect, no throttle response. Turned it off, 5 min later fired again and I drove off. Made it to my destination 20min later with it falling on its face 1 other time for 10seconds and never had a chance to pull off cause it picked right back up. Next morning I left her house, nervously started the car and drove back about 25min and it **** on me right at my exit. Same thing as second time as I just lost pedal from about 70-60mph, 4 lights and right back to perfect. Over the course of a couple days it's I did everything easy I could. Grounds, connections, terminals ect. Just when I thought all good randomly do it again. Never a dead battery and a SES 1time. A p1575 (cruise control speed sensor basically) and a p0731I think. It was for 1st gear position. Never saw the codes again. When it got the worst I could get a 1/2 pedal response about every 6 seconds. The ABS and TCS light would stay on and when it blipped the Batt and Brake light would flicker. Read enough to know most say your Alt is dying and likely Volt Reg toast. Did the Orielys test a day earlier knowing it doesn't mean ****. Check good on car. Also know from past experience with anyone's part store lifetime Alts they kinda suck and you just need to do it every 3-6 months so I decided to see what a $20
PicknPullnrandom OE Nissan would do. Here come my wtf question. Did my1st VQ Alt R/R with this sites help. Thanks and it sucked. 2hours if your organized, well I must not be organized lol. It'll gobetter next time cause I'm gonna be doing it ASAP even though the car is running perfect with 50miles on it.
My Pick n Pull had 3 5th Gen last month and Infiniti but this time just 1 5th gen so that narrowed it down for me. It already had salvage markings on it but yanked it. Had it bench tested. Good. Whatever. Car started ran good at idle. Seemed I had all ribs lined up. Made a tiny noise and while inspecting after R/R warm up a pulleys running true but Alt was hanging off 1rib on pass side and right then 1rib sheared off. So I'm running a 5 rib belt. Alt I put on only has 5 grooves and obviously the rest have 6.
I cant find a 5th gen running a 5 Grove belt right??
Had my take off bench tested. Good they said. Don't believe it. Besides missing a rib its running perfect. I'm gonna replace it again ASAP but wanted to know if that sounds like my fix and wth did this ALT come off of originally?? Curious if you think I can get on the interstate at 70 for a few days missing a rib in a otherwise good belt.
thanks for any input in advance. Sry for being long winded.
I cant find a 5th gen running a 5 Grove belt right??
Had my take off bench tested. Good they said. Don't believe it. Besides missing a rib its running perfect. I'm gonna replace it again ASAP but wanted to know if that sounds like my fix and wth did this ALT come off of originally?? Curious if you think I can get on the interstate at 70 for a few days missing a rib in a otherwise good belt.
thanks for any input in advance. Sry for being long winded.
Rebuilt alternators have done so many weird things that all I say is "how about that". When you have a part that fails intermittently, it will pass testing as OK UNLESS it is actually failing while it is being tested. And to give you a warm fussy feeling inside, there are certain kinds of failures that the auto store testers are not designed to detect.
As for the 5 rib thing, that's new to me. Maybe that alternator originally came off of a Sentra or an old Titan or something. If the alternator works, just change the pulley on it.
Rebuilt alternators have done so many weird things that all I say is "how about that". When you have a part that fails intermittently, it will pass testing as OK UNLESS it is actually failing while it is being tested. And to give you a warm fussy feeling inside, there are certain kinds of failures that the auto store testers are not designed to detect.
As for the 5 rib thing, that's new to me. Maybe that alternator originally came off of a Sentra or an old Titan or something. If the alternator works, just change the pulley on it.
thanks for your reply. The testing results make sense, since being that the issue was intermittent. I guess I will pull it off again (ugh lol) and change the pulley. Do you know if I'm going to need a puller? Wondering if the pulley is also pressed on besides the obvious nut?
Hi folks. I have a 2000 Maxima with the mud shield(?) under the engine hanging off. Is there a part# to order these? Should I take it off now? I've been driving around with it and have had no problems but I know it could catch on something and turn into a major pain.
Hi folks. I have a 2000 Maxima with the mud shield(?) under the engine hanging off. Is there a part# to order these? Should I take it off now? I've been driving around with it and have had no problems but I know it could catch on something and turn into a major pain.
Thanks for your help.
Those plastic panels are for air streamlining. They decrease air turbulence that in turn improves gas mileage. The gas mileage increase is small, possibly too small to notice. But with the governments fuel economy, the automakers do a lot of small things to improve fuel economy.
If the panel is hanging down, especially if it is the front edge, do something before it catches on something. That could do damage to something else. If it just needs the screws/clips, go to the dealer and get come.
Hey guys I have a 5th gen as well and just a couple days ago my brake lights and the shifter stopped working anyone have any suggestions for me ? Would greatly appreciate it!
Hey guys I have a 5th gen as well and just a couple days ago my brake lights and the shifter stopped working anyone have any suggestions for me ? Would greatly appreciate it!
Easy one. Either the fuse for the brake lights is blown or the brake light switch doesn't work.
Fuse #2 powers the brake lights. Fuse 2 is a 15 amp fuse, in the top row, 2nd from the left.
The brake light switch is under the dash and is operated by the brake pedal. Read this link on how to replace it. Post #8 has photos.
I have a 2000 Maxima and my problem is my driver side power window. The window has a hard time rolling down, so I have to push it down as it is going for it to be completely under. There is also a terrible squeaking sound during the whole process. It rolls up all fine and dandy no sounds what so ever. The strange thing is it rolls down fine whenever it's a hot day or rainy day, but the cold is the worst. I think it might be the rubber near the window, is it the weather stripping(not sure) or something in the door that needs some WD40. Thanks for giving this a look over!
I have an 00 Nissan Maxima M/T that I am having issues with. I am considering going with a manual from a 2002-2003. According to the Haynes repair manual, the manual transmission bellhousings bolt locations appear to be the same. So my question is, are the interchangable without much modification, and what parts would need to be changed? Thanks in sdvance
Last edited by Rinard Pratt; 03-10-2017 at 06:54 PM.
Hi I recently bought a 2002 Nissan Maxima V6 3.5L that is stuck in limp mode with error codes p1122. It has a brand new throttle body and we did the relearn procedures manually thinking thats all that needed to be done. But still wont rev past 1500 rpm or so. we tried another MAF sensor and still no luck. Everything is showing the right voltage. No vacuum leaks. starts up and runs with a high idle though. Could the new throttle body be damaged? Can other problems cause limp mode? I read in another forum someone took it to a dealership and had the relearn done and was fine after that. But i'm not trying to pay an arm and a leg. Could it be a bad ECM? Any info would be greatly appreciated.
Hi I recently bought a 2002 Nissan Maxima V6 3.5L that is stuck in limp mode with error codes p1122. It has a brand new throttle body and we did the relearn procedures manually thinking thats all that needed to be done. But still wont rev past 1500 rpm or so. we tried another MAF sensor and still no luck. Everything is showing the right voltage. No vacuum leaks. starts up and runs with a high idle though. Could the new throttle body be damaged? Can other problems cause limp mode? I read in another forum someone took it to a dealership and had the relearn done and was fine after that. But i'm not trying to pay an arm and a leg. Could it be a bad ECM? Any info would be greatly appreciated.
well a sure way to check ECU is to carefully remove it's a real PITA because you have to lay sideways on the passenger floor.
once you get the 4 8mm screws out
carefully remove it
get a multi meter with a megaohms slot.
first look inside the ECU by removing the screws. If it looks burnt its bad. Test the circuits with a multi-meter. You should be getting figured like 599 kilo-ohms
it sounds like just a small contact issue somewhere.
well a sure way to check ECU is to carefully remove it's a real PITA because you have to lay sideways on the passenger floor.
once you get the 4 8mm screws out
carefully remove it
get a multi meter with a megaohms slot.
first look inside the ECU by removing the screws. If it looks burnt its bad. Test the circuits with a multi-meter. You should be getting figured like 599 kilo-ohms
it sounds like just a small contact issue somewhere.
thanks for the info. ill check it out. We found where there is water leaking on some plugs under the dash. They r corroted. Been leaking for long time. Do you know of a good wiring diagram for my 02 maxima?
thanks for the info. ill check it out. We found where there is water leaking on some plugs under the dash. They r corroted. Been leaking for long time. Do you know of a good wiring diagram for my 02 maxima?
I had dealt with the same thing. I'd check under the wiper cowl there are small plugs that leak. They just need new seals.
Other members suggest RTV under them. It leaks in through the blower inlet.
I had dealt with the same thing. I'd check under the wiper cowl there are small plugs that leak. They just need new seals.
Other members suggest RTV under them. It leaks in through the blower inlet.
same problem with tps? or just a leak? I 'm having a hard time tracking the tps wire into the car right now... its the only code that comes up.
I'm having a hard time finding an ECU/ECM A56 S56 G8. Ebay is popping up infinitis and maxima combined. It has to be my problem as I found corrosion in it. Just wanna make sure I buy the right one thats gonna work. help me asap please! I want this ***** on the road
There are 4 wires that go between the TPS and the ECU on the 2000 and 01. 2002 an 03 are different. What year is your car?
If you have corrosion in the ECU, 99 times out of 100 it is cleanable without the pcb being damaged. Just brush it off with a stiff brush and look closely at the traces (the silver lines) that none are broken. Even if that happens, it can be fixed. If corrosion is in the connector pins, that is real tough to clean out.
The numbers on the ECU are not fully understood by damn near everyone. If you get an ECU for your year car and the same kind of transmission, it should work for you. If you replace the ECU, you will have to get the keys re-programmed.
There are 4 wires that go between the TPS and the ECU on the 2000 and 01. 2002 an 03 are different. What year is your car?
If you have corrosion in the ECU, 99 times out of 100 it is cleanable without the pcb being damaged. Just brush it off with a stiff brush and look closely at the traces (the silver lines) that none are broken. Even if that happens, it can be fixed. If corrosion is in the connector pins, that is real tough to clean out.
The numbers on the ECU are not fully understood by damn near everyone. If you get an ECU for your year car and the same kind of transmission, it should work for you. If you replace the ECU, you will have to get the keys re-programmed.
Yes, all the 5th gens were designed to have cabin filters. But it appears that Nissan was did not install the filters initially as some of the 2000s didn't have one installed.
As it turns out I had both seals swapped. The reason it won't seat down is because that's the passenger side cv shaft seal I'm sticking my driver's side axle into . . . .
Last edited by Robert Baker; 04-04-2017 at 07:22 AM.
have a question myself i have a 00 maxima and it is running rough while at idle and it also takes a 2 or 3 seconds to start.. any suggestions?? would be greatly appreciated
I'm doing an HR swap and am just waiting on all my parts. I wasn't able to separate my passenger side half shaft from the support bracket in the vehicle. Now it's out and I'm wondering the best method of getting this apart?
I'm doing an HR swap and am just waiting on all my parts. I wasn't able to separate my passenger side half shaft from the support bracket in the vehicle. Now it's out and I'm wondering the best method of getting this apart?
Start soaking the joining sections with PB blaster every several hours. After a few soaks, try tapping a dull chisel around the edge. Avoid the tabs where the bolts go through as they could break off. Assuming it comes off, you may need to file down burrs where the chisel wedged in.
Start soaking the joining sections with PB blaster every several hours. After a few soaks, try tapping a dull chisel around the edge. Avoid the tabs where the bolts go through as they could break off. Assuming it comes off, you may need to file down burrs where the chisel wedged in.
Good advice. Since I had it partially separated I tried placing some washers in the gap and threaded the bolts backwards in an attempt to pull the joint apart. It worked a bit but the cheapo washers I used were too malleable and just bent.
Got a dull chisel and used it exactly where you recommended not to (tabs) but went at them tangentially instead of perpendicularly so they wouldn't bend in case it was still stuck. Had to work it the whole way but overall it didn't take an excessive amount of force. All apart now!
Good advice. Since I had it partially separated I tried placing some washers in the gap and threaded the bolts backwards in an attempt to pull the joint apart. It worked a bit but the cheapo washers I used were too malleable and just bent.
All apart now!
Good to hear you were able to separate the pieces. FWIW, cast iron does not bend, it cracks and breaks.
That washer thing is a good idea. Did you just try screwing the bolts in or did you try tapping the housing as you put pressure on? I'll have to try to remember that trick.
That washer thing is a good idea. Did you just try screwing the bolts in or did you try tapping the housing as you put pressure on? I'll have to try to remember that trick.
I didn't try tapping with pressure applied, I could tell one of them was making some progress so I got a bit zealous. I could have used some reciprocating saw blades as they might have held up better. I didn't have any flat iron kicking around to work with.
01-15-2017, 10:18 AM
(tabs) but went at them tangentially instead of perpendicularly so they wouldn't bend in case it was still stuck. Had to work it the whole way but overall it didn't take an excessive amount of force. All apart now!